It looks like we dont have any sort of classified ads section? It might be handy as i'm sure various folks on here are both looking for bits and wanting to sell bits.
Might be needing a new bumper after the wife stoved the bloody fence this morning :(
might see if i can get a UV lamp and see if there are any other signs of leaks
not tried it yet, didnt have it running this evening, was just doing bits and bobs of tidying up. If i can find the pressure switch i might just stick a meter across it and see if it shows open or closed.
Well had it into Kwikfit yesterday for alignment and AC regas. It apparently held pressure and worked fine, though i didnt actually test it myself as it was cold out by the time i picked it up.
The alignment was squiff, so it went back today to get that fixed. Been out this evening reinstalling the plenum plastics at the bottom of the windscreen and some other bits and pieces and noticed this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bi6n2az3dyhpri/IMG-20170621-WA0024.jpg?dl=0
Which i presume means its emptied the contents out those O rings when its heat cycled them...
Thanks. I'll see about getting the injectors drilled out, and the temp sensor hooked up and try another go at calibration!
it IS connected to the lambdas though, in live data view they're displayed and flick around showing rich and lean as you'd expect.
The fuel trim thing makes more sense, i noticed bank 2 was acting oddly, maybe i need to put that back to zero?
Sorted those screenshots, i've also uploaded the config files so maybe you can load them up and have a look? I noticed something a bit strange in the Lambda menu as well.
Original map:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k6txepgv1egttn4/Capture-old.PNG?dl=0
Map after autotune:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gc026raujbsjn81/Capture-new.PNG?dl=0
Strange Lambda screen, what does "fuel trim bank 2" do?, and why are the sensors set to "not connected" when they were definitely showing readings on the main screen with the engine running:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nm87rqx4saa7gvh/lambda.PNG?dl=0
Original Config:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rulvujcw3bajejf/M43%20YMA%204.6%20RR%20new%20plugs%20rec.cb8?dl=0
Config after Autocal:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mi9lb9f4xy690p/M43%20YMA%204.6%20RR%202.cb8?dl=0
which injector nozzles should i have been drilling out?!
I just bolted the rails on as they come out the box!
I'll try some of the things in there, thanks.
I've got a vague idea of what might be going on as well.
When i last ran the autocalibration, it was running on gas, really badly, then i pressed the button to calibrate and it got better. But i've realised that its quite likely, the STFT's were maxed out trying to get enough fuel while on gas, so while its autocalibrated, its done so with the short term trims maxed out at full enrichment...
I'm hoping i can run the calibration while on petrol, where the trims will be sensible. Going to try that maybe later on tonight.
I'm also going to connect up that temp sensor and see what happens, rather than running without it.
I managed to buy new replacement (upgraded) injectors for my GEMS engine for less than the cost of cleaning the crappy old ones.
The new ones were from a 1.4L K series engine, and were recommended as a direct replacement for the original lucas items. I have the part number somewhere.
Found a couple companies on ebay selling them from new crate engines. I presume they're buying them and then modifying the engines for kitcars or whatever and the injectors are surplus.
I suspect yours is Thor so they'll be different to mine though.
@lpgc? any ideas?
Perhaps a faulty temperature sensor or similar?
Yeh i couldnt see anything specifically broken, but that sounds likely!
I just bought cotton overbraided fuel hose, as thats what was already on there. I'm not a fan of large bore silicone for vacuum purposes. It gets soggy when it gets hot and can be sucked flat as theres no reinforcement.
Spent a good bit of time on the P38 this weekend. Weather was crap so lots of rain dodging.
Felt like lots of partially completed jobs, but progress nonetheless.
Got the steering track rod swapped out, but still need to take it and get the tracking done.
Got the LPG injectors changed as per the other thread, but not working properly.
Did some testing on the cruise control. With the pipe to the cabin blocked off, i powered the pump and ensured the pump and solenoid was working properly. All fine. Connected the cabin pipe back on and it stopped pulling a vacuum. Disconnected the pipe from the switch on the brake pedal and blocked the end and it still wouldnt pull a vacuum, so i've ordered a new length of hose and will resume testing once i get that replaced. At least i know the pump and diaphram are good.
Inspected the AC condenser, and it looked ok. A bit crusty, but no obvious corrosion at the top edges, so i hope that'll just need gas. Will find out when it goes in for alignment etc.
Dropped the engine oil and replaced with 5w40 (it had 5w30 in it that i'd put in as a bit of a flush). No issues there.
Decided to have a look at the Autobox, so dropped the sump off that, and put a new filter in and refilled with oil. Unfortunately i'm about a litre short, did the level check with the engine running and the level was just on the pip on the bottom of the dipstick. So need to get some more oil for that!
Dropped the oil out the front and rear diffs and refilled with EP90. No issues there.
I wanted to do the transfer case as well but obviously the lack of ATF knocked that on the head.
All in all a reasonable bit of progress, just annoying that theres a few things that arent finished!
Okies, so i got some time today finally, and got the LPG injectors fitted.
Couple of issues.
First of all i got the T-Piece linked above, however i notice that the resistance of the sensor is different to the original one, and there doesnt seem to be any calibration options to change the sensor within the software? Is it close enough to work ok?
I fired it up with the temp sensor disconnected, got the software working (eventually, its shonky as fk) and warmed it up a bit, then hit the gas button and let it switch over.
It ran and didnt have the horrible vibrations that it had on the old injectors, but the engine wasnt happy, wouldnt rev, Spitting and popping etc.
I noticed that the gas pressure was showing as 1.6bar, so wasnt sure what to do about turning it up as suggested earlier.
I figured it was lean due to the smaller injectors, pondered how to fix it and decided to press the autoconfig option within the software.
It asked me to rev the engine at 3000rpm for a period of time and then said it had completed the calibration. After that the engine ran much better, revved cleanly in neutral etc. However when i took it out on the road its not right. Spluttering and generally unhappy at various points in the rev range.
I compared the map before and after, and took some screenshots, i'll post them up shortly.
Any thoughts?
I presume the blend motors are a dash out job? If so thats not happening any time soon :P
Looking at the wiring diagram, the clutch is in series with the pressure switch, so the switch being open will certainly give that fault code.
yeh that was the plan, they're just round the corner and i'll get them to do the tracking once ive replaced the track rod anyway.
I had a look today with the nanocom and there was a few codes:
I think the compressor clutch code indicates that the pressure switch is open?
So we plan to drive the Range Rover to goodwood at the end of the month. I've done a few local trips of around 80 miles and thus far it seems fine. Theres a slight drone on lifting off the throttle, and a bit of vibration at certain road speeds that i'd like to sort out, i guess i'll start with wheel balancing.
Before we go theres some bits i want to get sorted out, like getting the LPG working! and fixing the shonky track rod end, but those are in hand and i mostly know what i'm doing there, hopefully get onto that this weekend.
However the two bits i'm not sure about are the cruise control and aircon. Neither are critical ofcourse, but both will hugely transform comfort levels on a long trip, AC especially if its hot!
Are there any common faults with either that i should look at?
I scanned the HEVAC with nanocom a while back and i'm sure there was a fault code for low pressure, though i cant actually remember (i'll scan again later). I dont think theres any way to scan the Cruise control system though is there?
When i get the alignment sorted i plan to ask the garage to attempt to gas up the AC system. Which i guess will either work, or find a huge leak... The AC condenser behind the grill looks pretty corroded, but i dunno if it will actually be leaking or if it just looks rough!
The cruise control system i've had something similar in an older Audi, and remember they were a pig to diagnose as there was no diagnostics and about a million different things that went wrong with them. The ECU's also packed up, and the P38 ECU looks pretty similar to the one used on the Audi so its probably the same boat. I remember for the Audi someone wrote a bit of a guide showing various things to probe, which attempted to narrow down where the issue was. Is there something similar for the P38?
Cheers
Kev
FWIW, in VAG circles its super common for aftermarket sensors to act wonky and its one of the items thats a firm "buy genuine" (along with MAF sensors!)
Hopefully your new new sensor is ok though!