Yeh i've ordered a later ECU, i'll swap the plug and see what happens. I've asked the seller to give me the plug, i hope he does!
Once setting it to biagotti fast it seems to have calibrated up correctly and runs quite nicely. Switching to biagotti fast seemed to reset everything, and i had to go thru and input various settings again.
From memory pinj was around 2.5 but i'd have to look.
Once on gas driving down the road i tried some moderate accelleation and some normal crusing while keeping an eye on the lambda values and they were switching nicely in a closed loop fashion, so i'm pretty happy that the ECU is in control.
I'm pretty sure the ABCD corresponds correctly with 1357 etc. Unless someones cocked up where it interfaces with the ECU itself. But given its a 10+ year old install i'm sure someone would have picked it up before now if that was the case! I'll wind the overlap back down to 0 and see if that sorts it out.
Oddly its still working despite the leak. I've shut it off on the control panel for now as i dont want to damage it. Will get some new o-rings ordered, dont think they'll be here in time for the trip though :(
Had a good prod at the cruise control today. New hose is in, T piece was leaking so a few jubilee clips on there to sort that out. Tested directly at the pump and its holding a vaccum no problem. Went thru the tests within rave, all button signals and brake signals are correct. But it doesnt work.
I suspect the ECU is probably duff?
I had the bumper off a few months ago to remove the hideous bullbar thing from the front of it. Hopefully it'll come off easily this time
Cant see any green bumpers on ebay when i looked. Oddly mines fully colorcoded, and most on ebay seem half color coded, was that an option or something?
So theres an "overlap" setting. On the old map it was set to 0.1s, on the current map its set to 2s
i'll try turning it down and see what happens!
Need to source more LPG though, the red low level light keeps flickering on and off!
yep figured that out, 5-0v is correct.
The injectors are Valtek type 30's. The only options in the software were biagotti and biagotti fast.
I took a punt and set it to Biagotti FAST, re-ran the calibration and it all worked perfectly...
Theres a strange stumble when it first switches, i might take another look over the settings for change over see if i can improve that.
Otherwise it drives pretty much perfectly once on gas :)
Right really starting to struggle with this now...
Temp sensor is fixed and reads properly.
Nozzles are drilled out and reinstalled and everything is hooked back up.
Started it on petrol, ran it up to temperature and tried an autocalibrate. However it clearly doesnt work properly. As it performs the calibration, you see the gas inj time get slowly larger and larger, and the engine runs worse and worse. When it completed, the gas map had even larger numbers in it than before and it barely ran on gas. I also noticed the lambda values seemed to stick at 0v as soon as the gas comes online. I reset the map using the button in the config and the engine ran much better on gas, but again as soon as you run autocalibrate, it cranks all the numbers right up and runs like crap again.
In the configuration, theres a setting for lambda that has either 0-5v or 5-0v, but i'm not sure which it should be set to. It was initially set to 5-0v, and i tried 0-5v with the same result. I imagine one way the ECU sees 5v as rich and one way it sees 0v as rich, but i've no idea how it should be set. I'm guessing 0v is rich, given it seems to stick on 0v when it switches to gas.
I'm also wondering about the configuration of the injectors. The manual suggests two options for injector type, Biagotti and Biagotti fast. Its set to Biagotti, but the manual suggests 3 ohm injectors should be set to biagotti fast?
Snapped the fence post clean in two as well 🙄
It looks like we dont have any sort of classified ads section? It might be handy as i'm sure various folks on here are both looking for bits and wanting to sell bits.
Might be needing a new bumper after the wife stoved the bloody fence this morning :(
might see if i can get a UV lamp and see if there are any other signs of leaks
not tried it yet, didnt have it running this evening, was just doing bits and bobs of tidying up. If i can find the pressure switch i might just stick a meter across it and see if it shows open or closed.
Well had it into Kwikfit yesterday for alignment and AC regas. It apparently held pressure and worked fine, though i didnt actually test it myself as it was cold out by the time i picked it up.
The alignment was squiff, so it went back today to get that fixed. Been out this evening reinstalling the plenum plastics at the bottom of the windscreen and some other bits and pieces and noticed this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bi6n2az3dyhpri/IMG-20170621-WA0024.jpg?dl=0
Which i presume means its emptied the contents out those O rings when its heat cycled them...
Thanks. I'll see about getting the injectors drilled out, and the temp sensor hooked up and try another go at calibration!
it IS connected to the lambdas though, in live data view they're displayed and flick around showing rich and lean as you'd expect.
The fuel trim thing makes more sense, i noticed bank 2 was acting oddly, maybe i need to put that back to zero?
Sorted those screenshots, i've also uploaded the config files so maybe you can load them up and have a look? I noticed something a bit strange in the Lambda menu as well.
Original map:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k6txepgv1egttn4/Capture-old.PNG?dl=0
Map after autotune:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gc026raujbsjn81/Capture-new.PNG?dl=0
Strange Lambda screen, what does "fuel trim bank 2" do?, and why are the sensors set to "not connected" when they were definitely showing readings on the main screen with the engine running:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nm87rqx4saa7gvh/lambda.PNG?dl=0
Original Config:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rulvujcw3bajejf/M43%20YMA%204.6%20RR%20new%20plugs%20rec.cb8?dl=0
Config after Autocal:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mi9lb9f4xy690p/M43%20YMA%204.6%20RR%202.cb8?dl=0
which injector nozzles should i have been drilling out?!
I just bolted the rails on as they come out the box!
I'll try some of the things in there, thanks.
I've got a vague idea of what might be going on as well.
When i last ran the autocalibration, it was running on gas, really badly, then i pressed the button to calibrate and it got better. But i've realised that its quite likely, the STFT's were maxed out trying to get enough fuel while on gas, so while its autocalibrated, its done so with the short term trims maxed out at full enrichment...
I'm hoping i can run the calibration while on petrol, where the trims will be sensible. Going to try that maybe later on tonight.
I'm also going to connect up that temp sensor and see what happens, rather than running without it.
I managed to buy new replacement (upgraded) injectors for my GEMS engine for less than the cost of cleaning the crappy old ones.
The new ones were from a 1.4L K series engine, and were recommended as a direct replacement for the original lucas items. I have the part number somewhere.
Found a couple companies on ebay selling them from new crate engines. I presume they're buying them and then modifying the engines for kitcars or whatever and the injectors are surplus.
I suspect yours is Thor so they'll be different to mine though.
@lpgc? any ideas?