Have a look at the MAF readings since you have a Nano.
Last one I had go out made it look like coils and wires as well.
Good shot!
Let's see 567 with 43.2 on the lower display next!
I make it a point to call out things like that and the missus thinks I'm nuts!
Heck, she may have a point.
Keep up the good work!
10 Years!!!???
Seems like no more than 120 months ago to me!
As soon as I saw that in print, I had to really have a think about it.
I'm so glad that Gilbert invited me in from the cold, dark side!
All I can really say is:
Thank you so much for putting up the site and keeping it up!
Granted, one of the admins gets a bit grumpy at times, however he's got a long way to go to catch up
with the late, great Toad Hall.......
If I can figure out how to make zoom work on any of my devices, a meetup would be great!
Cheers for the last decade and looking forward to the next!
Best of the holidays to you as well!
Tom
I have been using Delo 400 10w40 in everything I own be it a lawnmower or Cat Diesel in the boat.
Rated the "Best dinosaur based oil available" Seems to do a good job for me.......
As for the issue with oil changes on marine engines?
The solution is very simple and the slight expense involved is well worth it!
Source a thread to barb (or thread to JIC) fitting that will fit the oil pan plug hole, then attach a piece of appropriate
hose to that and then to the suction side of a small brass manual suction pump like one of these:
https://www.newpig.com/action-pump-brass-piston-transfer-pump/p/DRM1415?srsltid=AfmBOoqp0uyAp8qhHkaRItor4pDZLkoxKRQeScghkKCqdocP-5LqfLaf
(There are a bunch out there and the best ones are made in UK!)
A 1/4 turn ball valve can be installed in the suction side if you like as well, but if the pump is mounted with the inlet above the level of the oil in the pan, not really needed.
Oil change is then a matter of sucking the oil out and straight into an empty container.
I have added this to about a dozen boats and a good number of diesel gensets with poor access due to sound proof enclosures.
You are correct. They are pressed on with the wires for the rotor pinched under them in grooves in the base material.
Slightly tricky getting the inside one past the outside.
A mandrel press would be helpful.
As you have a dead one on your hands, try using a fine cut off wheel on a Dremel to remove them.
It seems you are pretty handy, I bet you could make or scrounge some brass rings (sections of pipe?)
And press them on.
Once on, you can spin the rotor in a lathe and finish the faces to spec size.
Could be a fun weekend!!
If the slip ring is worn, a decent auto alternator shop can replace the brass rings.
I had some done on a big CAV alternator for the boat by a shop in Vic, now closed due to the owner passing.
Having said that, and you being in Tazzie, there is a slight chance that you can find one there.
Start with these guys. If they don't do automotive units I bet they know who does!
https://electrorewinds.com.au/
I know there was a good shop in Melbourne and being full of grey haired men, they can do just about anything.
I will ring my mate there and see if he knows if they are still trading.
To the best of my knowledge......
There was only one part number for the correct DSP amp.
I believe they were only fitted on 2000-2002 models.
I had pretty much the same symptoms on my 02.
It would come and go and could be cleared with Nano.
Drove me round the bend for several years.
Finally faulted out permanently on an icy road at 2am....on Christmas Day!!
Lots more trouble shooting and it turned out to be the RT front wheel bearing.
It was very worn out but showed no odd symptoms and made no noise.
Hitting the ice, it must have really twitched hard over and it dislodged and pushed back the sensor!
New wheel bearing and problem gone.
The sensor shorted to sensor fault was a red herring for me.
Usually it would come up with an abs fault and show no errors on Nano.
Live readings showed signal, resistance was fine.
Jack it up and give the front wheel a good wiggle ( a piece of timber under the wheel to pry it up and move it sideways worked for me)
Good luck!
Welcome in from the cold and dark!
Even if you don't have a "proper" Rangie anymore, you are certainly a welcome
addition to the Pub!
I look forward to seeing the new forum subdivision.
My best mate in Oz has a 320 and will be happy to join in the fun.
As for So Cal? Born there,( bailed to Hawaii ASAP.)
It's a great place to be FROM!
This particular ai seems to be trained with the philosophy of
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit!"
Sadly, it seems like most of the folks who have joined in on the dark side lately cannot tell the difference......
Franken freak is nothing if not confident, obsequious, and waaaay too chirpy!
Once the VS owners drive away Gilbert and Richard (I know, same scizzo guy)
The forum can do nothing but fail.
Just gotta wonder, what would Toad Hall have to say???!
Hey Gilbert,
When are gonna get us a Frankenstein ai for the Pub?
I have not laughed at a forum post from the dark side for a long time!
Thanks!!
On the other hand, be afraid, be VERY afraid..........
For those who don't lurk on the dark side, I am referring to this:
Yea, (tee hee)
Actually,, I was surprised to find 4 of them. I thought I only had 2?
Go figure!
Glad the issue was sorted with a bit of .....ahem..... contact cleaner.......
Gotta love the easy ones!
That is very interesting on the disco amp. I wonder that Marty did not go that route? Maybe send him a PM and ask?
If you really get frustrated by the rewiring process, I do seem to have 4 spare tested working DSP amps here that
I have collected from breakers over the years.......I also have the aforementioned disco amp on the shelf.
Of course, these may be considered to be "Geographically undesirable" but I don't need that many spares.
Under the circumstances, a very good plan!
Hmmm..... Possibly yours is acting correctly, and your mate's has an issue?
Yea, that's the ticket!!!
You're lucky, not every P38S still has all of the factory installed gremlins!
Interesting.
Thanks for the information.
Sounds pretty darned analog to me!
And you say it comes on and runs when you simply plug in nano?
Earth fault?
P-38 mystery!!
There must be a bit more to it than just a switch and fan if the act of plugging in the Nano triggers it to come on?
Possibly a relay being driven by the Becm, but as nothing is shown in ETM, this is a real odd one.
Have they re purposed a circuit on the the Becm power board that would do something else if it was a petrol engine??
There have been further developments.....
Lately, it has been "occasionally" telling me the license plate bulb is out. Taillights are ok
The really odd one is the trailer indicator (Symbol of a trailer) has been flashing along with the LH turn indicator.
But not all the time, and maybe just a few blinks when it does do it.
Does that bit of information jog anyone's memory? Am I perhaps chasing a bad underbonnet fusebox?
Fuel gauge is still a bit out of whack. It ran out of fuel in 35 miles after it went to <50 miles. (I had spare petrol with me)
I don't mind it being a bit nuts at 3/4 and above, but I like to know when I am at the bottom, that I really am!
Which pots were calibration for that again?
Granted, this site is blessedly "Brit-Centric" in nature, however there are still a lot of owners all over the world, including, YES! here in the former colony AKA the USA.
Tragically, here, I have seen over a hundred very nice, mostly under 150k miles (I have had great luck in jumping in a small battery and reading the Becm for mileage) clean examples in breakers yards with unknown issues.
No way to know what the final straw was with most of them, but due to the lack of real mechanics over here who are willing to even look at one of "Those things" and the sad fact that there is no shortage of unethical charlatans who are perfectly willing to take enormous sums of money to fix something, only to get it wrong, at best and make things worse usually.
As with everywhere I am aware of, the old skilled trained experienced guys are getting pretty thin on the ground.
I suspect most of them on your side of the ditch are on this forum!
So, to answer your question:
I have tested this with all 3 of my P-38s, and if I intentionally immobilise the BECM I can immediately start the vehicle, and, strangely, there are no messages in the console, and everything works as usual.
The only indication that appears is the red led on the dash will be flashing to indicate it thinks the alarm is on.
Having disconnected the alarm horn long ago, I don't know that it would not be bleating like Shaun the Sheep!
So, if the S-chip is a method of keeping people from getting immobilised due to their lack of knowledge of the proper maintenance procedures for the locking system, then I say, sell one to everyone who has had immobiliser issues!
Remember, they may be capable of learning to fix things in time if they don't get so pissed off and disgusted that they torch, or trash a perfectly serviceable vehicle. The fact that they ask questions (Over and over again) about issues they are having shows at least a willingness to give it a go.
Who has the sign off: "Land Rover, making mechanics out of drivers since 1945"
Never were more true words spoken!
Stepping down from soap box now......
The door latch or Nano and EKA tricks might work, but I am assuming that this one has been annoyed until it has gone into what I think of as "Secondary lockdown"" The only way out of that is for the BECM to take a trip to someone with full BBS setup or testbook for unlocking.....$$$$$$
OR the Psidoc solution is quicker, cheaper, and foolproof. (and forever)
NO I do not work for, or in any way receive compensation from Simon.
I just love his product and want to keep as many P-38s out of the breakers yard due to immobilisation issues as possible.
Someone needs to get one of Psidoc's chipped unlocked ECU units and go plug it in and drive it off.
About a 5 minute job!
I would love to see the look on the seller's face!