Not being nit picky, just wondering what the parameters are in this case.
All of my PWM experience is with the old style PWM solar chargers. Those went from about 1 minute to 400hz +

Nice to know what to look for when trouble shooting this system.
Thanks!

I can say that the SAI blower runs for about 30 seconds when starting from cold.
Would it be safe to say that the solenoid stays active for the same time?
Does your SAI blower activate?

In your earlier tests, are you sure you were getting 7.3 volts, not .73 volts?
.73 would be a typical voltage drop when a power transistor is switched on

When you do your tests, try from B+ to the active pins as it was mentioned earlier that it is a negative switched signal.
Theoretically, you should get 0v from B- to the pins when active (Perhaps point 73v as it is a transistor)
When B- is switched, you will get full battery voltage from B+ to the switched lead when active

Well, Pulsed, but at what frequency? and at what point is a switched supply considered to be PWM?
In other words, if one was looking at the signal relative to B+, what would you normally see for pulse duration?
If it was not bucketing down right now, I would go check to see what I get.

Depending upon the year, you will probably get several. For example, 99-02 has an additional temp sensor on the bottom of the Rad which works with SAI, so it will probably be upset as well.......
I wonder if setting the market to UK from NAS would do it, or if you would need a UK ECU?

For the record, I think the things California forced on the auto industry were a bit draconian. I am not a fan.
They were however, effective in cleaning up the air quality in Southern California..........
Eliminating the NAS emissions is perhaps not a good idea as more states are starting emissions testing.
Remember the testing programs are worth millions of Dollars / Pounds/ Kroner....etc.....as it is basically another
form of tax, so why not jump on the Greenwashing gravy train? (Petrol evil, E/Vs Gooood)
Not having the correct parts is an instant fail. you eliminate the system, the resale is going to go down. If the issues
you are having are emissions related, simply re installing the parts will re install the initial issue.
That just makes it someone else's problem down the road. I would hate to see more P-38s
in wreckers yards due to failed emissions tests.
I think there would be several codes thrown if it is all removed as well. Possibly getting an ECU from UK would be the answer to that one?

Just my 2 cents, now back to your regularly scheduled problem...........

Oh, the purge valve sits under the expansion tank and has a 2 wire plug going to it.

So, being NAS, it has all of the emissions equipment....
I am wondering if the fuel vapor canister purge is the culprit as I believe it purges fumes for about 20 seconds, but not sure how often it does this, or in what part of the drive cycle.
As a simple test, leave the fuel cap loose and try it a few times. That will throw an check engine light, but ~may~ keep it from pumping additional flammable vapor into the intake since it will not be able to build pressure in the vent side.
Worth a shot?

Is this an NAS spec, or UK, or???
If you are here, where we have the wheel on the correct side (as opposed to the right side) then I would suspect
it is emissions related, like a sticky PCV valve perhaps?
My first go to was the Maf, but you beat me to it!
Have you reset adaptive values with Nano to see if it goes away?

I am sure Gilbert, when he wakes up, will have some insight as well as a dig at LHD vehicles and their owners!

"and I'm assuming the valves will be driven when the brakes are applied......"

Would the valves be driven if the wheel sensors report all is well?
ABS should not be actuated unless it thinks it's needed. As you pointed out, with the fuse removed, braking is perfect, just no ABS or TC.......

On an off topic note, I had to use the missus' 2000 HSK yesterday to bring a generator to a snowed in friend as it has some fairly aggressive 16 in M/S tyres.
His drive is steep, switched back, about 100 meters long and nominally graveled, but had 16 in of snow on it with ice below.
The TC worked it's guts out going up, and TC was very active coming down! Loads of fun!
Flawless performance, and he got lights and heat back!
He will officially stop referring to P-38s as "Cream Puffs"!
He used to race Baja 500, and regularly dis's Rangies!....Not any more.....

I don't know if this is it, but my recent issue with ABS which was similar, except that it would only activate ABS when slowing down to turn a sharp right out of a car park. No errors flagged, and all ABS and TC lights on.
Turned out, I had a very bad wheel bearing, and the reluctor was kicking the sensor back every time I re seated it.
New hub, with, as you will recall, a hole which kept the sensor from seating fully...... Drilled hole out to allow sensor in the last 3mm, and problem solved.
Possibly, the new reluctor is slightly eccentric, causing the sensor to push back out as soon as you make 1 revolution of the wheel?? Is the sensor actually going through the hole in the hub dust shield?
Is the wheel bearing good? Mine was very bad, yet there was no real evidence of this via noise or handling other than
a slight wobbly feel, but just occasionally......
Can you get any travel on the sensor once it has been driven?
Nano showed 1.7kph at rest, and it looked like the speeds were all increasing as I accelerated, until it stopped sending data at about 5kph. Getting it to re connect at 30kph showed the sensor error on rt front.
The whole time this was going on, and the ABS and TC lights were on, there was never any faults shown on Nano.....
Good luck!

I wonder if PSI motorsport has any connection to Simon here- "Psidoc" as he builds and sells widgets for
making engines run without BECM, Possibly he does things for diesel tuning as well??
Seems like a strange coincidence, Good luck!

PC38 wrote:

As you can see from my other thread looks like i'm having problems. So with this jumper in place I should be able to start my car no matter what the alarm thinks?
Paul,

My experience with Bosch/ Thor is using Psidoc's (Simon's) emulator board.
For Gems, I have installed one of Labtronics (Lee's) modules. Both of these give the ECU the handshake it is looking for the fire up the engine. Both need the wiring bypass at the Becm.
I understand Turner can modify either ECU to allow starting without Becm intervention.
The jumper will keep the Becm from disabling the starter motor, so it will always crank.
In order to start in an alarmed or immobilised state, you also need to have an emulator board installed in the ECU, so it will always get the mobilisation code.
With a modified ECU and the jumper, the Becm is out of the loop and the engine can always be started just by turning the key.
Cheers,
Tom

How did we go from ABS to throttle body heaters in one thread?

I accept full responsibility, sir!
I suggest a light flogging, then banishment for life!!

Look what banishment has done to you career! HA!

That is the correct wiring bypass for the starter at the Becm. Both Yellow plugs, one on the front, one under the fuses on the RT side.......

She does not do anything to the vehicle, however she has been immobilised 2 times on a previously owned 1999.
Once, it superlocked on her in a torrential downpour! Not pleased.........
I do not need to be told that the Rangie would be heading down the road to a new owner if it happens again.
She also reads the forums over my shoulder and groans in sympathy when we get a
"HELP, stuck in the middle of nowhere and immobilised!!" Post.....
So, as her HSK has no fob, and out of an abundance of caution, I have installed Simon's board, clipped the superlock motor wires,
and take scrupulously good care of her Air suspension. She is happy, I am happy, Dog is happy!!

As to the signs it is immobilised?
That's the strange thing. It starts and runs without announcing that it is immobilised. No messages on binnacle.
The alarm light on the dash does flash, and if I had the sounder plugged in, it might be making noise?
Otherwise, everything works as it should.
I test them every so often by locking with fob, unlocking with key and annoying the BECM (HSK just gets switched to bypass as no fob)
Also, I have installed the board with an ultra reliable toggle switch and the vehicle operates in normal BECM controlled mode at all times.
IF there is a problem, you pop the bonnet, flip the non obvious switch, and start it up! Drive home and figure it out there, not in some
secluded spot in the rain, at night with Bears and wolves in the bushes!!

I am going to get an extra ECU, modify it, and have it handy to help out someone who is alarmed, and immobilised beyond the Nano's abilities.
Cheap addition to the tool box, and a good resale value!

Harv wrote:

https://www.sportscarcentre.ca/MGM000010K

This is it. Sports Car Centre, Edmonton. Not cheap for what it is but it’s better quality than the original. It’s too early for me to say that it will last longer but I think it’s been 2 years since I installed it with no issues.

That certainly looks like a forever fix!
I have an alloy expansion tank, may as well go for broke!

I say disabled, or bypassed.....even eliminated since the BECM no longer has a say as to start or no start.
Can we go with "functionally" Disabled?
If the BECM gets annoyed, and you are a dab hand with the EKA, or quick with the Nano, No worries! (That's me)
If however, you are an "family member" who loves the Rangie and is happy to drive it as long as it starts and goes
without any "Faffing about" (The Missus) then being sure it starts no matter what is invaluable!

Makes sense.
I notice several sellers with thick silicone gaskets on offer.

No,
It is a whole lot simpler than that.
3 wires: B+, B-, and a signal lead that you solder on to one off the leads to the header plug, which you clip first
You also do a 1 wire bypass at the BECM to eliminate it's "Vote" on the starter motor when the key is turned.
Is that a Turner job there?
That ECU appears to be fried as well!

Thanks!
I see pattern pats cheap, but OEM is only about 35 bucks.....Probably one of those that's not worth the risk?

Harv wrote:

I must have entered the EKA with my Nanocom at some point because I can lock it with the remote and unlock it with the key without any issues.

That's odd. What you describe being the best way I know to annoy the BECM causing it to immobilise.
You should have to input EKA each time you do that!
If you lock with fob, you should need to always unlock with fob, otherwise, you are stealing it!