Update:
The new valve body and controller seem to have addressed the odd valve twitching behavior......
As for the compressor stalling? It turned out the rotor had a shorted winding, and 1/4 of the motor had pretty much stopped working.
This gave me a very lumpy power delivery and caused the compressor to jump around.
SO, I put in my "Good Spare" compressor which worked for a couple of days, then started exhibiting the same
Jumpy behavior!
I thought that it was VERY unlikely that both of them had the same issue, and I was correct! The spare had an
intermittently sticking brush, so would run fine for a bit, then bog down and rattle like it was possessed!
I cleaned the commutator, and put a bell end with good brushes on, and it is now sweet as a nut!
In the last week, I have repaired more DC PM motors than I have in the last 40 years!
Starting with a totally fried armature in the motor for my Davit on the boat, then the anchor windlass wanted new brushes.
Of course, all the motor dramas were on the Missus car, so that got priority!
Seems all good now, so will take it for a couple hundred mile spin tomorrow.
Going to bring the known good compressor from the 02..........I am not completely silly!

Problem solved!
I swapped in a spare valve body and controller module and the issues have vanished!
The compressor did have one of the tightest piston seals I have seen, so I had put it on a bench supply
and ran it unloaded until the current draw got reasonable before the initial install and tests.
Road tested, and watched Nano for compressor run time. Probably only 10% duty cycle if that now. Happy!

I made a test rig and checked the suspect pressure switch against 2 others and found
that it was not closing. Gave it a tap, and got it to operate, but it was very intermittent at 150-160Psi.
Bad switch would certainly account for the 2 compressors trying to jump off their mounts when the pressure
went too high.
The original valve controller also seems to have an issue, as when it reached the target height, it cycles the
RH front valve about once a second.....again intermittently. It has been tagged!

The EAS Compressor on the wife's 99 was reported to be making a lot of noise, and indeed it was....
So, I swapped in a rebuilt pump, and thought problem solved.
New pump does the same thing.
It seems like the pressure switch is not operating and the compressor is jumping around on its mounts and struggling.
Tried sending it to access, then back to extended height, and compressor seemed happier. For a few minutes.
One of the valves is ticking constantly once it gets to height. Wife took mine, and nano is in it, so just guessing right now.
I have a spare valve body, so will swap it out. See if the issue changes.

+1 on NAS cars having an EKA.
I don't know where this one got started, but I have looked at over
2 dozen cars with nano and have yet to find one without an EKA code.
It is true that most are 1515, but not all.
When I had Dr Scott from the dark side unlock mine, I recall him telling me that
I could change it if I wanted to as 90% of the Becms he worked on were 1515.....
If I recall, only in Australia is the EKA not used?? Please let me know if that is not true.

I had this issue for a while, and when I went to tackle it, I discovered that I had a bad bearing in the right front hub.
This allowed the wheel to wobble ever so slightly under a certain set of conditions.
This wobble was enough for the reluctor to just nudge the sensor far enough out that it was too far away.
I had been chasing the issue as a bad sensor and tried several, all of which fixed the problem temporarily, then
it would re appear. Try giving each one a tap to re seat them, and see if it solves the issue.
At no time in my 6 months of troubleshooting did the Nano ever report an ABS or TC error, so I was really baffled.
Simple check, is jack up each wheel and give the thing a good wrestle in out and side to side looking for any play.
I was astounded at just how bad the bearing had become with no other symptoms noted aside from an occasional
slight wobble I put down to road surface or tyre issue.
Good luck!

Aloha Marty
No problem on waiting for the zebra strips. it's coming into the warm and dry time here, so it should work fine.
You seem to have enough going on for the moment!
If you remember, let me know when you get back to NZ.
Or, if you prefer, I can ping you later........
Oh, I went out and counted the DSP amps.....I think they must be breeding in their dark cabinet.
I seem to have 4 tested good.........Probably should flog off a couple......
Cheers!

Aloha Marty,
Got any HVAC Zebra strips left?
I could probably use 4 of them.....

I have been following this with interest, and serious Kudos for getting it going!
Now......You seem to have come up with a somewhat universal translator, so can it be used to fit
a quality, but lower cost replacement for Bosch?
The genuine Bosch MAF is available, but big money!
Also there are so many fraudulent copies out there that getting a genuine one can be a challenge!
Cheers!

Gotta love the easy fixes!
If anyone really needs a rear motor, I have 2 that I do not need. Both work fine.
(I am North West coast of US)

+1 on the possibility of a Disco amp.
And yes, if it is not a DSP (Digital Signal Processing) amp, you only get the front speakers.
So, if you do find the black box up top behind the sound insulation behind the subwoofer box, post the part number.
I had the dead DSP amp issue,(twice!) and did the disco amp thing on my 02 then started collecting any
DSP amps I came across in wreckers yards. Now, I think I have 3 spares! Worth having for the great sound!

Remember, you actually did two things:
First, you swapped the relay, and second and probably more importantly, you wiggled and jiggled (technical terms)
the fuseboard base.
Possibly just a mildly corroded socket, or perhaps a sign of a failing fuse box?

Over the years, whenever I was at a breakers yard, I would grab as many of the windshield clips I could
successfully remove.
When It came time to replace my windshield, (Frozen branch at 60mph) I first insisted to my local shop that I wanted a genuine heated, tinted Pilkington part, which they got from RR. I then printed the section of RAVE
describing the procedure and gave that along with a bunch of clips, and a set of good used top and bottom
trim pieces to the installer.
With all of that, they nearly got it right, and I only needed to re fit the top trim to stop it vibrating at above 80 mph.
Nice to know the top clips are still available.

So,
I attempted to remove the 2 screws on mine, and got the "correct" tamper proof Torx driver bit, which promptly
stripped the screw head. Very sloppy fit. I thought about cutting the screw heads off, but not knowing what I
would find inside, and not wanting to destroy the valve, thus leaving the vehicle unusable, I just put it back in and asked my
friend in Hawaii (who I sold 3 P-38s to when I moved) if he could look at the '95 parts car to see if it was there.
$10 dollars postage and I had it in hand 3 days later.
This one had obviously also been leaking as there was dried brake fluid caked beneath it where the
exposed O ring is. By carefully loosening each screw a bit at a time, I was able to take tension off of the
thick spring inside and easily disassemble it. It got a good cleaning with brake cleaner and a soft wire
brush to get the scaly brake fluid off.
As suspected, the O ring was knackered! Fitted a new one and re assembled. I "primed " it with brake fluid
before installing, and when installing, I attached the fitting closest to the bulkhead first, topped up the
reservoir to get the fluid level above the front pipe, and the fluid flowed by gravity through and out the front.
Waited for clear stream with no bubbles, and nipped up the front fitting. Cleaned up, and tested.
It was not necessary to bleed the system when I was done. Yea!!
50 cent fix! A new genuine one is $135 bucks, and the O ring seems to be the only failure point!
Now that I knew what was inside, I attacked my original part.
I then used the Dremel tool to cut a nice slot in the stripped screw head, and was able to renew my original part in about 5 minutes.
Got a drop in spare now, not that I will need it!
This is not an issue you hear much about, but I would bet it is more common, but goes unnoticed.
I am surprised that no one has reported catastrophic failure from the O ring blowing out!
If anyone is in need, I have 28 spare O rings. Free for the postage!

Welcome to the Pub!
A pre production P-38 would qualify as Unicorn poop!!
Interesting to see the "Vents" on the side forward of the doors.
Those obviously did not make the final cut for production, yet were added back in the
next incarnation in 2003. Are they real, or just a cosmetic plant on?
What year was it built?

You say when you floor it, you get "more revs and not a lot else!"
How may more revs? What's the starting point, and how much higher does it go?
Just wondering if the transmission is slipping and you are chasing other pre existing issues?

Was this sudden onset, or has it been creeping up on you over time?
When was the trans last serviced?

Just had this issue last week.
It has been intermittently reporting Left front bulb failure for a couple of years.
Changed the bulb once, in the rain/fog and no good.
Replaced bulb again last week, as I found the filament in the last new one was very intermittent.
Went upstream to the 2 wire plug, took it apart, cleaned it, and put it back. Worked, but a bit dodgy.
Got a small screwdriver and tightened up the internal clips in the plug (bent them in a bit to tighten)
Problem solved.

The additional 2 wires would indeed be for automatic dimming mirrors.

Not really off topic at all.....
That is a very real concern when buying virtually anything from anyone these days
with Chinese material substitutions being more and more common. Add lack of knowledge on
the sellers part, and here we are!
This particular part is specified as EDPM rubber as it withstands brake fluids without dissolving or going hard.
I am looking to get it from a reputable distributor, so have some small assurance it will be as stated.
I did find a simple test on a technical rubber o ring site:
"2. It can also be recognized when it is burning. When the fluorine rubber O-ring is burning, it will automatically extinguish when it leaves the fire. The EPDM rubber O-ring will not automatically extinguish, and will continue to burn".

Since I have to buy 30 pieces to get to their $5.00 minimum purchase,
I will have plenty to do destructive testing on!

I hear the pain you are having trying to decide on the OEM $$ kit or just the parts you need off of Ebay.
Since this is an engine out job, and you certainly do not want to do it twice, maybe a case of
"Pay the price or cry twice"?
In my case, the part I got is a Chinese pattern part, so already suspect, and the design flaw that seems
to have built in is still there, or even worse, so I am going to try a repair.
At least in my case, it is on the top of the fender and easy access.

Thanks for that info Gilbert!
I can just picture you in the Cat detector van looking for Tiddles!
Good fun alright!

Being a Ham, I used to love "Fox and Hound" Transmitter hunts! Ahhh the many misspent nights of my youth!
And to think, YOU got paid for it!

Got the new valve from LK8 and it is in the dreaded Britpart box.....
Had a look at it, and I see now the flaw in the design.
O ring is already squirting out of the gap between the cap and the base casting.
This is a Chinesium pattern part, so even worse!
I will not knowingly trust my safety to CCC pattern parts......So, back it goes!
So, for 12 bucks, I have bought 30 (minimum quantity) of the correct size and formulation O rings
and will just fix the one I have.
I have a couple of photos of the new defective part, and have failed to be able to attach them....
I know there is a trick to it.....Post them somewhere and link to them??
In any event, I will report back if I succeed, also I will be offering the 29 other O rings for the cost of postage.....