Thanks, that's actually the next step.
I'm rummaging around the shed looking for the box of pots to do just that.
Thanks for the numbers!
It's possible the PO or his "expert" shop have screwed around with the calibration.
Got a message center bulb to replace anyway so I will have a play with it.
I guess just fill it up and adjust as appropriate.

Upon further investigation, I found the RH kick panel plugs to be SERIOUSLY green.......
Whipped out the soldering tools and heat shrink, and fixed them. While it did not seem to effect the fuel gauge issue, it did fix the LH rear speaker and the subwoofer.
(Being the Missus' car, I was not really aware they were out....) Glad the soldering job fixed something!
Fuel gauge is mostly working, but I do not think it is calibrated correctly.as in resistance being added by a bad connection.

Also, discovered a mystery black wire coming out of the loom under the door sill cover that had a 1/4 inch ring terminal on it.
The matching red wire with it,went to a 5 amp fuse that looked a bit aftermarket but well done and seemed part of the harness.
I had a suspicion that this was possibly power and earth for the Phillips Incar nav system that has never come on, so I
Jumped black wire to earth, and lo and behold! The sat nav worked.....sort of.
It would load the dvd, but not recognise it.
As I had a spare Dvd drive, I swapped it in and now have a fully functioning, virtually obsolete GPS nav system!
I had been intending to fix this thing for a while, so glad it was an easy fix!
I am guessing the sender wiring goes through the LH side, and hope to find cruddy plugs there as well.

Right!
So, I have tested 2 different, but used sending units and they both have a few issues.
Mostly, the fuel gauge reads mid and lower fine, but as soon as they go above about 4/5 tank, the
fuel gauge plunges to empty, the range light comes on, and "Fuel Gauge Fault" is announced in the message centre.
Just put in a brand new genuine Bosch pump after first checking sender with ohm meter and plugging in the unit
whilst still outside of the tank (unplugged fuel pump to prevent dry running) and gauge read just fine until I ran it to the full side of the sender, then, same result. Straight to empty.
I understand that if you run the wiper off of the PCB traces, it will show a fault, so that should not be the problem.
Installed, and with about 4/5 tank of fuel, when you switch on ignition, it reads correctly for a few seconds, then goes to fault mode.
I would suspect corroded plug, or wire issue if it had not passed with flying colours when I used a resistor substitution wheel and the gauge ran in a very linear manner.
Is there a calibration on the cluster for this, or possibly, I do have a corroded wire somewhere. I have not cut out and re soldered the kick panel plugs, but will have a look there next.
Aside from that, I am out of ideas.
Not really a problem as such, as it reads very well down to empty, which is the important bit, it is just annoying that I cannot solve it!

With the old sender, it did indeed say "FUEL SENDER FAULT"
And, it was indeed faulty.
I had my run to bring down the fuel level, and no change,
So, I went to the boat and got my good ohm meter......
I found the "New" sender reading 39 ohms.
So, got my trusty resistor substitution wheel, and clipped it to the sender wires.
For the resistance I applied to the wires at the fuel tank plug, I got these results:
47 ohms- Full
100 ohms- 1/2
150 ohms- 3/8
220 ohms 1/8
330 ohms- Empty
This is correct according to an old post on the dark side by Marty, so you know its good data!
Looking like the sender got upset during it's transplant.
Next, I will obviously need to pull it back out to see what I did to upset it!

On the subject of BECM compatibility, At least for NAS spec, they seem to be reverse compatible.
Long ago, I had Scotty (Remember him!?) unlock and clone one from my 95 parts car to work in my 02, which it has been doing just fine......
Not sure, but he may have done a firmware update as well????
Thanks, once again for the help!
I will report back when I find out how I managed to destroy a perfectly good sender.

Thanks Gilbert!
Turns out that E0559 is the one on the wing next to the coolant expansion bottle.
Clean and tight, but wire brushed just in case.
Also checked C1289 the 20 pin plug on BECM. Clean and tight. Checked all the plugs on the front, since I was in there.
All looked good, so no moisture getting to the BECM.
So, as I had done the "Surgically cut flap" procedure for the fuel pump (I have only gravel surfaces to work on at
present.....Shop floor coming soon.) It only took a minute to remove sealant and access the pump (Luxury!)
I opened the flap, and checked the pump connection. Clean.
Next I took the old fuel pump and plugged it in to see if the old problem was still the same.
Yep! gauge read correctly and exhibited all the symptoms that I expected from a known worn out sender.
Plugged the "New" pump back in, and, with key in Pos II gauge reads full, as I would expect, as tank is full......
So, start engine and within 5-10 seconds needle sails down to empty and I get "Gauge Fault" message.
The pump and sender was very recently in my 02 and worked flawlessly. I suppose I could have damaged it in the transplant, but took great care not to.
Odd that it thinks Gauge is at fault when it seems to be a sender issue?
Further thoughts welcome!
I am going to take it for a drive today to get the tank down a bit and see what happens.

1999 HSK, Petrol
I had been having issues with a "FAULTY FUEL SENDER" indication on the message center display accompanied by fuel needle plunging
to zero and low fuel indicator light being illuminated.
This only happened after a fill up, so full tank. It got good when fuel was below 3/4 tank and was correct to empty.
I assumed that it was a sender with a worn track at the top end, so I swapped in a fully tested, known good fuel pump and sender assembly.
This seemed to fix the issue straight away! The old sender indeed had bad sections on the track at the top end, and about the 3/4 mark.
Bench testing with ohm meter confirmed this.
Now, however, I am getting a "FUEL GAUGE FAULT" indication on the message center, along with the needle plunge and low fuel light indication.
When ignition is switched on, the gauge reads correctly. after starting, and idling a few seconds it faults out. I noticed that a few times when it stayed accurate
for a bit, that pressing the brake would fault it out (Bad earth somewhere?)
Plugged in Nano, and looked at fuel sender values. Got a 36 and this dropped to a 26 when brake was pressed.........And went as low as 8.
I cannot seem to find my guide to the Nano that indicates what these readings should be?
Comparing to my 2002, the fuel sender readings on it stay solid at 69 when I press brake....(It has less fuel, so I would expect different number)
Any hot tips as to where to start looking? I have confirmed earths under the bonnet are good, so I suppose it's under the dash next.

Aloha João,
If you want to send me your address either by PM or here, I will be happy to send you a few O rings.
(To be quite honest, I would prefer to hand deliver them!)
My repair has been a success, so they must be the correct compound.
I don't suspect postage will be much, so no worries there. Happy to help.
Cheers
Tom

Now you mentioned it, I have noticed that on the 02, if it has been in motorway height, it will go back up to standard height at a traffic light with the brake pedal pressed if the light is long enough.
Not sure if I have ever tried dropping it to access with just brake on, but not in park.

Thanks!
I found an old thread on the dark side, then used the way back to confirm.
Got all of the pins I need except for the LCD screen backlight which is supplied separately...
Any idea what pin on the 20 pin connector that supplies that?
I am going on the video showing the test plug setup. He connects 2 wires from the 20 pin plug......
Without any 20 pin connector wires connected, the display works and all buttons check out fine, just gotta use a torch for the LCD.
I got RAVE to work on my really old XP machine and it looks like possibly pin 11? Don't want to fry anything though......

Got 2 fully refreshed HVAC controllers done.
3 to go
Oh, I did mean the Right hand most 2 plugs as viewed from the face. Should have said Center and RH plug.
I know the LH plugs are I/O

Aloha,
My PC that runs RAVE in the shed is on loan......
Does anyone have a handy list of the (7, I believe) wires on the RH 2 plugs on the controller that need to have B+ and earth connected
to enable testing of the unit on the bench?
I have a couple of plugs to use for the test rig.
Going to overhaul 5 HVAC controllers and it would be very nice to be able to check out bulbs and display on the bench.

Section b seems to be referring to "components" that may have been modified.
If the whole suspension has been changed, it would not apply.
(Oh my, what if you modify a spring!?)

Now, not ever having spent a quiet evening perusing the MOT testers manual......
What's it have to say about "modified vehicles"
Surely changing the whole design of the suspension would qualify as a modification? "Got a permit for those springs chum?"
Heck, there's probably a detector van out looking for just that!!

Had a slowly advancing rotational "grunch, grunch" noise that was one of those that seemed to be coming from a bunch of different places.
Finally had an assistant hang out of the LH rear window and listen. He thought rear wheel bearing.
Drained Diff, and found major water contamination in lube, odd, since i had not been in any deep water since last oil change in diff. breather good as well.
Anyway, I got a good second hand 4 pin diff from breaker, and installed it today.
Checked wheel bearings when I pulled axles. Both good.
Problem solved! $80 bucks, including diff, oil and black silicone!!
Easy job. Gotta love these beasts!
Original diff looks good on inspection, so I am thinking carrier bearing. Will disassemble when it gets warmer and see.

Yes, I'm sure the Becm needs to be powered up.
I got even luckier as someone had pulled all but 4 of the small fuses and had left only one maxi in the under bonnet fuse box. Just enough apparently.
I will have to add a few Maxie's to my kit as pulling all the fuses is common.
Even luckier, even though the passenger side foot well cover was hanging out of the door by the Obd port wires, they were still connected!
P-38s are a bit thin on the ground lately, but if you are in the San Francisco bay area, there always seems to be a couple around. Sadly that's 12 hours drive from my place now.

Aloha,
Over the years I have seen some nice and not so nice P-38s at wrecking yards.
The one thing the breakers don't know is the mileage of the Rangies.
If you happen to have a Nanocom and a suitable battery, you can not only determine the mileage, but also test the stereo / amps
and unlock the doors, tailgate, and lift hatch without destroying anything. And without the key.
I recently had amazing luck reading the mileage on an 99 that had the dashboard and all the electrics therin
removed by what appeared to be a dull shark! A total shambles.
As I wanted the rear diff, I wanted the mileage, so using an 18v Makita cordless tool battery and a set of leads and clips to fit,
I gave it a try. To my astonishment, it lit up and I was able to read the information.
Just clip an 12-18v battery to the battery leads and fingers crossed, it will play!

I have tracked down an noise I have been hearing lately to the rear axle.
Upon draining the oil from the rear diff, I found it to be the color and consistency of milk chocolate pudding.
Not a good look for gear oil. Obviously water got in there, which is a real mystery to me as I have not been wading at all
since the last time i serviced the rear end. Vent tube is in place and routed properly as well
Be that as it may, I believe the diff to be stuffed!
I was able to get a decent used diff from the local breakers with 174k miles on it.
Rather than just drop it in, I was planning to replace the outer bearings as well since they share the nice wet lube oil......
Question is, How are the bearings best removed? Rave does not seem to get into the actual rear axle other than R&R diff assy.
Are they as difficult to press in and out as the fronts?
Any hints and tricks for doing this greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Tom

The larger Thomas compressor was USD$322.00
A bit less than the "Dunlop" branded ones, and USA made. A significant improvement in output as well.
Be nice if it was also serviceable. I am looking for equivalent parts for that.

I was using Paul's diagrams as I can get them on my tablet, in the shed. I just worked out how to get Rave to
work on the tablet this morning.....
In any case, I pulled out the valve body and swapped the diaphragm for the spare I had. It was a bit of a loose fit
but looked good.
Installed, and aired it up using the Schrader valve I long ago replaced the drain plug in the tank with, and shop air supply.
Fired it up, and closed the doors awaiting the magic rise. It rose alright, The Left side came right up, the Right
side did nothing at all. After a minute, as the left side had not moved, it decided it must be high centered, so it activated the "Extra high" function. A VERY bad look!
Pulled the block again to see what I did wrong. All looked fine. Tried again, same thing. Cleaned all the connectors
Back in, same thing.
Figuring the only thing left was the driver pack, I swapped it for a spare.
It now stays up on all corners and the tank does not leak down overnight. (How cool is that!?)
I will try the pin tightening procedure on the pack I removed as that is a known fault 20+ years on.
Next time I have it on the bench, I will swap NRV1 as a preventative measure.
The positive take away from removing and replacing the valve body 6 times in an afternoon, is I can do it in about 5 minutes. Now, with luck, I will not need my newly acquired skills anytime soon.
Thanks!
Tom

davew wrote:

Bolt: Sounds like bags of fun...!
Ok, If the hissing you hear is 'from the exhaust silencer' (the tank) then yes that does point at the diaphragm (again) of course. And what happens (overnight ?) if you pull out the EAS relay (under seat) and inhibit the sysyem/compressor ?

Dave,
with the relay removed (4 pin in it's place) The 4 corners stay up as expected.
Tank empties overnight.
It stopped raining, so it's block out today and new diaphragm.

OK, Thanks!
The block I rebuilt was an unknown one I acquired along the way from somewhere.
So, if the diaphragm is dodgy, it will allow air from the tank to escape through the exhaust?
I was trying to figure out the path it was taking.
Are the NRV's involved at all in this scenario?
I do have a very nice supple disc here I will use.

Aloha,
I have been doing battle with EAS gremlins.
Rt front would randomly go down sometimes in 15 min, sometimes not at all. For days.
Figured it as time to rebuild the valve block, so I got the kit and pulled one from my shelf, and did a clean rebuild.
Same issue. Exactly.
I had already done the soapy water test on the bag, but as I had a good spare, I replaced it.
Found that the old one, when inflated and soaped on the bench was a sieve!
Well, good. Job done. Not!
This one went down as well.
Grabbed my other spare front bag and Tested at 50 PSI for 4 days and no leaks on the bench.
Put it in. Same issue.
Had to go see the folks so did a 2500 mile round trip down south.
Problem persisted, but made the trip just fine.
As these were 14 year old Arnotts Gen II I contacted them and they sent me a pair of gen III bags under warranty as they no
longer make Gen II. They honored the fact that when I bought them in 2010, the warranty was unconditional.
Nice new bags for the front. Billet aluminum instead of plastic for the base. FREE!
Put them on, and guess what? Same issue.
SO, I changed the solenoid valve for the RT front bag for another good spare. Problem solved!
New issue, and the real reason for the post is that when the compressor shuts off, and I stop the engine, I hear a LOT of air hissing from the exhaust silencer. Not from the bags, from the tank. Let it sit overnight and it stayed up, but tank was empty.
Swapped the diaphragm valve and same issue.
Gotta be coming from the diaphragm I guess, but cannot see how it is getting there with the system off. Disc looked fine when I did
the rebuild, and it was not leaking like this prior to my trip
I have been staring at Paul P-38's diagrams for a while and am now cross eyed.
Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Going to pull out the block again and replace the diaphragm, I guess.