Thanks for the link!
Good read over coffee.
Happy New year!
To add to that addition.......
If you have no key fob, and get one (or a pair of them from the same vehicle), you can have their codes
read and enter this into the (unlocked) Becm......
Thanks for all of the information on this issue.
This will save me trying to "Troubleshoot" the system.
Hadn't come across the aforementioned document, is it part of Rave?
Happy New year!
Tom
Ahhhh..... So that does indeed clear up the issue....It's not an issue, just another interesting "feature"
of these beasties!
Still trying to work out just why you would need to shut off the compressor before activating the valves?
Kbs wrote:
Hi
I've managed to lose key2 from my p38 4.6 thor.
I have a key2 from a p38 4.6 gems, can a nanocom change codes to allow me to use the key2 from my other car?
The working key1 that I have (thor) often reads "engine disabled" until I press a key button. Has new batteries- any other issue I should look at?
Hi Gilbert, sorry I haven't answered on the other forum, I've managed to lock myself out again. Not ignoring you. I will get a internet pc up and running soon, seems that Android doesn't quite cut it over there
K
You can use a key from another P-38 under certain conditions. The Nano can reprogram the Becm to use a different key. I have done it.
First, the Becm must be unlocked. This alone is a deal breaker for some folks.
Second, you must know the fob's lockset code. There are folks here that are equipped to read this code
if they have the fobs in hand.
If you have a locked Becm like most, it would probably be easier and less expensive to have Les in Wales make
you a new Key 2.
Of course, if you are in the UK, the Stealership will be happy to extract a pound of flesh in exchange for a new fob!
Here in NAS land, we do not have that option.
Whilst perusing the dark side, I found this which is part of a post fron Jos G. from 2012:
"When you brake and the car is stopped, when you take your foot of the brake, the car will self level which cause the compressor to stop running. When the compressor is running and the ecu decides it want to open the solenoids, the compressor will stop to allow this and restart after the leveling procedure is complete."
This would certainly be an explanation for what I have observed. Gilbert touched upon this as well above.
I have not seen this particular behaviour described in print in RAVE or the various primers on the EAS I have seen.
Does the compressor always stop when it does a leveling adjustment?
A slightly late Happy Holly- Daze to one and all!
Just got back from the annual 2500 mile round trip to Southern California to be with family.
No P-38 issues to report, so a VERY MERRY Christmas!
Flicked over to 200,000 Miles in mid trip too!
I had to chuckle about your answer, as RR Toadhall told someone long ago much the same thing.
Said that in all the years he worked in the shop, no one ever had any issues with one.
He was actually shocked to find several instances of reported failures.
On further research, so have you......
https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/abs-pressure-reducer-valve-help.345016/
Jos Geuze answered the question on O ring size, as he re machined and rebuilt his.
EPDM o-ring (ID is 22mm and 2 mm thick)
I have the replacement coming so not a problem for much longer.
Going to look at the old one with an eye toward refurbishment if I can get the O ring..
It's probably only a common issue on P-38s that have 500k+ miles........
Well, the good news is I finally found the really small leak in my brake system that had me topping up the fluid about every 10,000 miles.
The bad news is that I found it is the PCRV that's bolted onto the fender below the fluid reservoir. The source of the leak became obvious yesterday when it became a larger leak!
Apparently, the design is such that it will slowly extrude the O ring seal inside causing fluid to escape.
Of course, I found this as I am preparing for a 2500 mile trip South for Christmas next week......
The new part is on order, but will probably not arrive in time, so the question is:
Can this be repaired?
Seems like if it has an O ring that has an issue, it can be rebuilt?
Anyone done this? Know what the O ring size is??
Cheers.
I have not checked to be sure, but suspect the pin carrying +12v is on the corner of the field.
The metal shell is, of course B-. The slightest misalignment at the critical instant will have the
case grounded, and that pin in contact thus an "STS" moment (Something touched Something)
The tiny spark is just a courtesy to let you know you need a new fuse!
Good Grief!
"Mr Prosser" is alive and well! :)
The inmates are really running the asylum over there.
Logic is gone and blind faith in flawed data systems are becoming the norm it seems and
"common sense" ....Isn't!
I know it's only a matter of time before this spreads across the ditch.
Be afraid......Be very afraid!
Ahhh,
Well, I am glad I mentioned my trials with it, it seems I am not alone!
Cheers!
Yep!
I discovered this whilst being lazy.
Sitting in drivers seat (LHD) when the Nano would lock up such as switching off engine whilst looking at eas values,
I would unplug the cable from it rather than getting out, walking around and cycling power by unplugging the OBD cable.
it did not seem to matter how carefully I tried to re connect the cable, something would touch something, and I would need a new fuse!
Leaving the cable firmly clamped on is a good policy!!
If you unplug the cable from the side of the Nano, at least for me, it will short the power pin when plugging it back in and blow the fuse almost every time!
Maybe just my bad luck, but I stopped unplugging the cable from the Nano and just do the contortionist act to get the plug in under the dash.
+1 on leak being at the Pollen filters or plenum. It does not take much of a leak and if the filters are wet, it works like a swamp cooler to humidify the incoming air!
I have tried 3 different known to be good relays. Same result.
Will dig into it further today.
I am going to look at pin 8 on the EAS controller to see if the signal comes and goes
I can hear the compressor when it's running, and see Nano from where I have my finger on the relay to feel it click in.
The pressure switch is not changing state according to Nano.
Relay ~randomly~ cycles the pump but pressure switch stays open until the system gets to pressure, then switch closes, and compressor is commanded off.
This issue has been going on for some time now, and I am at a loss as to whats going on!
Both my '99 and '02 do the same thing.
When the compressors are running, they "short cycle". By this, I mean they turn on and off in bursts of 15 seconds to a couple of minutes.
Looking at the compressor state on Nano, it shows compressor as "ON", and thermal switch as "NORMAL". It will do this from
stone cold, so not a thermal issue.....
I have several good compressors here, and they all do the same thing, so not the compressors.
The compressor relay is new, and it does cycle on and off with the compressor, so it is getting a signal to switch on and off.
If I wait a few minutes, the system will get up to pressure and the pressure switch will change state shutting off the compressor as it should.
I am looking at the EAS ECU, and I suppose the MosFet driving the relay is possibly thinking it is overcurrent and folding back the output? Looks like pin 8 from the ECU has that signal....
This is no major deal except that when the missus is doing short trips to the shops, it will eventually come up with an "Unknown Fault"
and go to extended height whilst flashing all 4 lights on the EAS switch. Probably finally runs out of air??
While I am at it, has anyone come up with an answer from Colin and his merry men about why the Nano displays an EAS fault as "Unknown"??? It can clear it fine, but not knowing why it faulted does not assist in troubleshooting!. Annoying, at best!
Where did he find it for that price?
The recovery website lists the 2 versions at $715 and $1625 Aud......
A bunch more than nano....
I was going to recommend one to my mate in Vic for his L322......
If you do a Google search for "exhaust pipe clamp" You will find several types.
I have used the U bolt version and the wrap around flat strap type both with good results.
Remember: If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway.