Evening All

Can anyone advise if they have used Nanocom to swap Motronic V8 ecu from one vehicle to another? The answers I can find on a Google serach seem to suggest its fairly simple to do with a Nanocom but I'm like to see if anyone on here has sucessfully done so?

Is anything needed from the Donor vehicle such as the EKA?

I'm looking to do this on a Disco 2 rather than a p38 as it seems having had the manifold off to check the wiring today that the failure I've got on 4 of the 8 cylinders to get any injection signals appears to be a fault of the ECU rather than the wiring.

Also a related but seperate question, I have access to an oscilloscope to have a look at whats coming out of the ecu in the way of signals, but haven't used one to do so. Can anyone confirm if this is a reasonable thing to try and do and some sort of guide to using it?

I've had an issue previously after some welding work was done (this is actually on a Disco 2 but its the same part used on the p38) where the inertia switch was tripped, this gave a few symptoms as follows
Failure to start (Cranks but not firing)
Hazard lights flashing when trying to start
Diagnostics fail to connect

Above was obviously sorted by resetting the swtich. However that was several months ago, Today I've driven the car around 35 miles and around a mile from the end of the journey pulled up at traffic lights. On pulling away car suddenly isn't running right (its been fine prior to that) Limped it the last mile or so and left it for a bit at that point.

Tried to start it a couple of hours later - LPG system is in protest mode (beeping) and engine clearly isn't running right. So out comes the Nano - which will not connect to the engine ecu no matter what I try (its been fine previously). So fire up the diagnostics for the LPG and find thats its complaining of several errors, some of which are probabbly from the original inertia switch incident, but 4 current ones are "petrol injector no signal on channels 2/4/5/6" which would explain the symptoms. live readings also show 0 for those 4 channels (2 and 4 would be the drivers side bank, 5/6 the front two on the passenger side bank)

My first thought was damaged wiring, but I think this unlikely as theres no obvious evidence of any damage, and for all 4 to fail like that seems unlikely. It also wouldn't explain the lack of diagnostic connection though the Nano either. I don't have anything unusual happening with the hazard lights on this occasion either.

I've checked Rave, but it has very little to say about the switch or how to test it. There seems to be 3 wires to it, does anyone know how the connections should be if checked on a multimeter or how it actually works? Or is it possible to bridge out connections to remove it as a possibility? If it was 2 or even 4 connections it would make more sense to me, but 3 doesn't give me much of a clue what it should be doing without another to compare it to?

Or does anyone have an idea of something common to both systems that could be causing the problem? Its a 2000 Thor 4.0 if it makes any difference. Obviously a lot of the bits differ between the p38 and the D2 but I'd imagine the basic engine electrics are fairly similar?

Only found out about this in the last couple of days, but worth a read for anyone who's passed their test after 1st Jan 1997

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/new-rules-for-towing-a-trailer-or-caravan-with-a-car-from-autumn-2021

Effectively you will automatically get cateorgy BE added to your license at some point in the Autumn, allowing towing of trailers upto 3.5T rather than the previous restrictions. Not exactly the same as those who qualified before, but much closer to it than is currently allowed.

Hi All

Slightly daft question it may sound like (and wasn't sure if this was best put in here or oily bits) but the rear bumper on my mate's p38 has fallen off today, as the bits that attach to the end of the chassis have turned to rust. I'm over 100 miles away and think from the photos that the bits he needs are the two mounts, ANR2381. I can find these, but the guy with him is saying they need to be welded to the bumper. I think they clip in place somehow but just wanted to confirm if thats the case if anyone knows?

I've got a couple of photos of the bits that have gone rusty, will try to link them now, but not the inside of the bumper.

I'm looking for a couple of parts - specifically iyt100000 and NTC5147 or https://www.lrparts.net/ntc5147-clip.html and https://www.lrparts.net/iyt100000-pin-spring.html

The usual suspects don't seem to have these both in stock, but https://www.lrparts.net/ does, I've never used them and just wondered if anyone else had used them before?

I guess Oily bits is the closest section for this, Has anyone here had a P38 (or even better a Disco 2) on a 2 post lift, and if so where did you put the pads to lift it on please?. Having checked Rave, it says use a 4 post lift though doesn't explain why for both models. Having tried it, it seems there is a lack of suitable lifting points may be part of the reason, plus causing potential problems with the EAS system if the suspension is completely unsupported seems to be another suggested issue looking elsewhere.

It is possible to lift using the factory jacking points (the radius arms) but far from ideal and certainly not a reassuring sight either. The only other photos of locations I've seen appear to be from a NAS spec vehicle (which seems to be slightly different to what I'm seeing) and looks like its being done on the ends of the sills as far as we can tell?

Hi All

Can someone advise of the required button presses to input the code on the attached radio (battery was removed for welding, and since the display doesn't work the owner can't tell if hes inputting it correctly or not). We think this is the Clarion unit rather than the Alpine one, but would be helpful to confirm that too?

I think its a case of press button 1 the required number of times to input the first digit, then 2 for the second digit etc, but not sure what you should be pressing after that.

I have suggested that he considers sending it to Clarion for repair and code removal, though I know Richard did say they were running out of replacement screens with the last one he sent away so it may not even be an option now. Also how can you tell which audio system is fitted (or to ask the question in a different way, is fitting a different stereo likely to be less than straightforward on a 1997 DSE due to amplifers etc, vehicle doesn't have any sub or similar kit but not sure if it has the door amps or how to tell?)

Been having a look at a 2.5 1997 (R) 2.5 diesel for someone I know, he wanted to change the gearbox oil due to having issues with what felt almost like clutch slipping. We dropped the sump off and changed the filter today, and refilled it but at the time we noticed the filler plug isn't like the one on my Disco (TYB100080) but has a nut with a hole in it, which then has an aluminium dome inside it.

Should have got a photo of it at the time, but didn't. Was looking up a part number to replace the cap (as we had problems getting it to go back on) and find there appears to be 2 different sumps, which accept either a dipstick (with a nut on the end of it) or a plug (with a thread to accept a bolt type fitting on it). What we seem to have is a mixture of the two.

Is this likely to be a case of it had a dipstick (which microcat shows) and someone has removed it and capped it with something, or did Land Rover produce a few with this arrangement and theres another part number for the cap part?

Slightly off topic for here, but got to be worth a shot!

Been looking at an overheating/over-pressuring TD5 engine on a 1999 Disco - It seems to be putting oil into the coolant, but not the other way round. Was initially suspected to be the head gasket, but it appears the td5 has an oil cooler mounted on the side of the block that has 2 o rings that over time stop sealing effectively, this allows the oil to seep out into the coolant.

Trouble is, I can't seem to find a part number or size for these o rings - Microcat doesn't show them as a seperate part, I've arrowed the ones in question in the attached screenshot.

Anyone know of either a specification for them, or a part number? The one labelled 8 is ERR7098, but this only shows a qty of 1, suggesting its not that?

Just incase anyone here has missed this post hidden in the announcements on the lpgforum

http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=14366

LPG Forum is closing - August 2018
I am sorry to say that this forum is going to be closing down at the end of Augist 2018. I no longer have the time to maintain it and it is desperate need of a refresh, updating, and have steps taken to ensure it complies with new data regulations.

This forum has served the LPG community for a very long time and there is so much information on here so it would be a shame to see it lost. I am going to look at ways that I can create an acrhive of all the posts and keep them on-line for reference purposes.

The other LPG forum is still operating though I have no idea how active it is. The web address is http://www.lpginfo.co.uk/forum. This was setup a number of years ago by a customer who had, had a bad conversion experience who felt that lpgforum.co.uk was being biased, hence the title of the website.

Thank you to our moderators for their stirling work over the years, and of course to the members from the trade sharing their invaludable experience.

Hi

Can anyone recommend a brand of coil packs that are reasonable (or confirm if Delphi ones are any good) please?

Just used a Britpart one to try and fix an annoying misfire on My Disco II (Thor) and its worse than the original one was. (the second one that is, the first one has a misshapen post so a lead doesn't even want to go onto it!).

And no, before anyone asks, I didn't know they were going to send Britpart ones when they were ordered.

Cheers!