The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
1141 posts

Regarding coating the foam side of the material, we first put the material onto the fiberglass liner, folder half of it back over itself and then started from the middle and worked out from there to avoid the material going on the floor. Disco 2 in my case but much the same (possibly more annoying due to the shelf at the front and the string net things in the middle, and of course a second sunroof to deal with, though no sliding cover on the Disco so that at least is easier!).

Used 3 cans with the Martrim kit, might have been slightly too generous as we barely had any left.

Old material came off very easily (part of the reason I took the headlining out in the first place) the orange stuff came off with a wire brush to a point were we were happy with covering it. Couple of areas ended up slightly creased by getting stuck a little bit too quickly, key thing seeems to be have one person to keep tension on the material and the other to push it into the correct place to stick as needed.

Pete12345 wrote:

I fitted these on mine back in Dec 2021 when doing the ball joints. Been fine so far & £15 each..

eBay ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Fits Land Rover Range (1994-2002)

I've used 2 of these sensors and one that came pre-fitted to a front wheel bearing on the Disco and all have been fine upto now, most recent one has been in just under a year, the other two have been in nearly 5 years now (the front ones).

None of mine failed in the way you describe though, they would intermittenly flag an ABS failure in the case of two of them. The other one in the failed wheel bearing was fine, but didn't want to come out of the housing so got replaced.

Microcat only shows the two part numbers STC3063 (RH) and STC3064 (LH) across the range. No difference for LHD or RHD which it does show on other parts.

I'd suspect that the Lefthand one will fit the lefthand door and the righthand one the righthand door, regardless of the driving position of the vehicle in question. They look to be the same part as a mirror image (which makes sense given the door catches would be flipped around as well from one side to the other).

Gilbertd wrote:

Alternative for the heater core temp sensor is a straightforward NTC thermistor and a tie wrap. Although the Valeo heater core is NLA, I'd happily fit a Nissens.

I've used Nissens radiators before with no issues - they fit correctly, they seem well put together and do the job correctly, The one I used most recently was also cheaper than ECP own brand ones (EIS or similar) which are rubbish, rarely fit well, metal is very thin in them and easy to damage (particually if delivered by Tuffnells or similar).

Spreadsheet sounds like a good idea to me - Might be a good idea to add LHD or RHD where it applies (and it applies to some stuff you don't always expect, I've know some vehicles (Not P38 specifically) to have a different heater matrix as the pipework has to go the other way through bulkhead, having ended up with a useless heater matrix for one of mine previously)

Its available on Amazon UK - As far as I can tell it seems like they would ship to Eire as well?

Or cheaper option of same sort of product

I've used Duct tape to cover this sort of issue before - Duck tape I think is only a brand of slightly better quality duct tape in any case? Duct tape isn't ideal for the job, but works in a pinch. Alternative option depending on the original barrier (this works better with the plastic sheet type than the foam type) is to cut the sheet so that the original adhesive is left covered and then stick the new sheet directly on the old one. this sort of product works well for that https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275179415543
or this (same sort of product, better picture) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314218336284

I've got a set of crossbars like that, Anything above 50mph and it feels like the ABS pump is operating and sounds like it as well. I've never known other roof bars to do that, fairly sure its the rubber strip underneath in my case that causes the sound and vibration.

Is there any difference between when the car is parked and it rains, and when its driven and raining? Not sure if the p38 suffers in the same was as the Disco, but we found mine was also leaking through a few holes in the floor in both front footwells - though these may have been caused by the leaking through the side of the windscreen as the carpet was soaking wet when investigated, not noticable until you squeeze it as the water was running down the side of the car behind the plastic trim. Once we investigated further they were found to be very crispy and in quite a poor state.

If you remove some of the trim, the source may become more obvious by more signs of water ingress, either it being wet or rusty marks could give you more clues to work with.

Ah I see, missed that, though it seems like good news all the same (well at least better news than the HG would be)

Morat wrote:

Well, the news is good. It's an exhaust manifold and not the HG. So I've got a spare HG set to make sure the gaskets stay sound forever :)

Next step - source a passenger side exhaust manifold...

Is there not one in the HG set you could use?

I've had problems with cars when they have sat for a while not being used with mould, and found a combination of cleaning (ideally a carpet cleaner type setup if the seats are cloth rather than leather works well) and then a treatment with a sanitiser such as https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/triple-qx-tqx-aircon-sanitiser-150ml-542772970 to have stopped it reoccouring.

Make sure to do the seatbelts as well, best to leave them extended (plugged in to the catch) when doing the sanitiser step as well.

Garvin wrote:

The throttle body heater units need to be assembled with non hardening/flexible (elastic) gasket jointing compound - I use Loctite MR5922. The plates are thin so the constant heat/cooling results in too much movement/warping and they eventually leak without something more ‘pliable’ than a dry gasket. Thin coat on both faces and job’s a good un.

Sounds like a simple fix, will remember that for next time it starts leaking!

Bolt wrote:

It is a whole lot simpler than that.
3 wires: B+, B-, and a signal lead that you solder on to one off the leads to the header plug, which you clip first
You also do a 1 wire bypass at the BECM to eliminate it's "Vote" on the starter motor when the key is turned.
Is that a Turner job there?
That ECU appears to be fried as well!

No idea who did it. Its partially fried, only 4 of the injectors on it actually fire. I discovered this in my D2 (and yes its a p38 ecu it would appear, or at least its in the case of a P38 ecu rather than a D2!)

No idea who did it, but given the appearance it doesn't look particually professionally done does it!

Bolt wrote:

I see pattern pats cheap, but OEM is only about 35 bucks.....Probably one of those that's not worth the risk?

Theres not really much to it, it seems to be the gasket that fails rather than the plate, but the plate usually gets in such a mess that its easier to bin it and start again with a new one is the thinking?

Bolt wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

Despite what a number of people will have you believe, you can't disable the immobiliser,

Despite what our esteemed colleague says, It IS now possible to, if not "disable" the immobiliser, it can be easily "Bypassed".
I have installed a small board inside my ECUs from Simon "Psidoc" on 3 of mine, and can say with certainty, that when testing them, I have caused the immobiliser to be activated intentionally, and the engine fires right up! This is on a Thor/ Bosch engine.......The Gems immobiliser was beaten into submission by Lee in Oz years
I understand Gilbert does not necessarily approve off these work arounds, but I say, if it keeps them going and stops some poor owner from fire bombing their Rangie, it's worth it!
My Missus now will take her HSK (which did not come with a fob)......anywhere, and I am confident she will always be able to get it started!
It can still go to bumpstops, but at lease it goes!

Does that board look like this one by any chance?
enter image description here

Also if you want to remove all the hardware, including the wiring, I'd suggest you start from the injector wiring (the petrol ones). Once your happy you have removed them all, check the car still runs. If it does, then remove the LPG ecu from its connector and check again that it still runs. If your good at that point, nothing else should cause too much of a problem.

I would say that if your injector loom is in as bad a state as mine (Is yours really a Gems with it being a 2001?) then its likely to be quite crispy. I ended up redoing the loom on mine and rejoining to the loom near to the windscreen as it was neater, less likely to cause issues and replaced all the crispy wires with new wires that didn't have broken insulation etc. Depending where your breaks have been done (mine had been on LPG under a previous owner which had been removed prior to my ownership) you may be able to rejoin them without taking the upper manifold off if its a Thor? Though you might need the manifold off to access the injector spuds anyway so may not matter.

Also if it is a Thor, be aware that its possible to manage to get the middle two injector plugs onto the wrong injectors on each bank. Its probabbly worth checking Rave if its been messed with before to make sure they are on the right way around (colours on the wiring diagram against each cylinder). Mine I've found since were wrong, suspect when it was either installed or removed the first time that the connectors got swapped over.

I'm not sure if the genuine bits for that are any better, but I've gone through a couple of those, they only seem to last a couple of years before they start weeping again.

I'd have thought it would be a better idea to get a tank you could fill up from if the space is available and make use of the LPG personally...

Holes in manifold should be able to be plugged with some M6 button machine screws (short thread bolts basically)

These for example https://www.alfast.co.uk/product/m6-socket-buttons-10-9-grade-zinc-plated-iso7380/ in 8mm length should do the job?

Understanding why you "have" to remove it might help give a better answer.

Investigation with a watering can or hosepipe and someone sat inside the car might locate any leak. I had similar on the Disco and found there was a small hole on the metal on the drivers side of the windscreen (looked like it had rusted through from a previous poorly replaced windscreen having damaged the paint).

It really wants the windscreen out to repair it properly, but its been filled with silicone for now which stopped the soaking wet carpet.

Yours looks much higher up, but I was running with no roof lining in mine for a couple of years trying to track down the source of the leak and did end up with a lot of condensation on the roof when it was cold, to the point that it would drip out near the mirror when driving which threw us off the actual source. Having the liner out almost certainly made the problem worse (its back in now having been recovered which was part of the reason it was removed in the first place, the other part being due to the damp problem it was getting mouldy in places as well)

You will find the point where the petrol injector loom joins the lpg loom that you need to reconnect the wires to their original location. Provided you take some care thats not too difficult. If you don't do so, it will not run afterwards. It also will not run if you remove the LPG ecu and don't rejoin those wires.

Without seeing what you've got there, hard to say, but provided you only cut wires to the lpg system you should be ok, obviously you need to make sure they are away from any thing they could either get damaged by or short out against (so insulate them in some way if you can't do anything else).

You should find 16 wires going to the petrol negative injectors, a positive pickup from the battery (maybe your fusebox cable) another switched positive (maybe petrol injector positive) and rpm pickup (maybe). The rest of the cables should only run to the lpg bits (pressure sensor, vapouriser, tank wiring, control panel etc)

If your looking to sell it, keeping the loom as intact as you can would be preferable.

Other cars I've had have been the same - The Mondeo I had the bonnet switch went faulty so it would start setting the alarm off when it was getting cold, or going through a carwash. Disconnected switch and it was fine like that, bonnet registered as closed. Its also there so that if the bonnet is opened that the alarm can be triggered not just to warn you that its not shut properly.