rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Jan 16 2017
04 March 2017 - 00:04

Gilbertd wrote:

Considering what he has done to the rest of the car, the dash is up to the same high engineering and aesthetic standard as the rest of the work. I'm wondering what he's done with the switches that now don't have a home?

With any luck the first time he takes it out on the road, the hand drilled wheels will fall off and he'll destroy the car and hopefully improve the gene pool while he's at it. Either that or he lights up a spliff inside it and the underseal he's used to paint the headlining will burst into flames and destroy the whole sorry looking thing. It started off looking rough when he got it and he's succeeded in making it look even worse........

Mr Toolless comes to mind here, though I suppose at least this one still runs. I think the wheels are what would worry me more though, as summed up in the posts on the other site. He deserves the consequences of the wheels for what he has done with the plastic carbon fibre though..Duct tape would have looked better!

14 March 2017 - 21:42

Is it on a straight bit of pipe that its broken? Theres a product called splice lok available which allows you to cut a section out and replace with the splice lok if its a simple break.

I found the same with Pirtek and A/C hoses, I did get one made up by a air con firm though where the original had a hole worn through it by rubbing on a bracket. the correct original wasn't available so they had to adapt one off an earlier car with the usable bits from mine to make one good one.

29 March 2017 - 16:07

Ferryman wrote:

I did see a tophose of a Disco once (well, not fitted but on a pile of other stuff) that had a bleednipple. As this is the highest point it seems very useful to me.
I don't know if it was homemade, it looked very professional.

Mine has one so would assume that can only mean its original, does actually help with bleeding too.

02 April 2017 - 00:28

Its visible at the front next to pump 6 on streetview? Big silver square box next to the other pump.

Helps with the right location - Filllpg has correct location shown and price confirmed last October. Though things do change.

17 April 2017 - 16:34

RutlandRover wrote:

The Mondeo we had for a few weeks had two rear springs in that time. The car had 63k miles and was a 58-plate.

It also had a knackered and completely worn out seat mechanism that allowed the drivers seat to be lifted at least two inches.

Then it had coil pack failure and a serious missfire as well as a bunch of other issues.

My previous Focus hit 150k and never needed a suspension spring to be changed. It didn't have a failed coil pack until 145k either.

I think new/modern cars are just shitty quality in general.

I've had a few mondeos - they all seem to eat springs much more than other car I've had does. Though quality does generally seem to be an issue across many of them as well.

17 April 2017 - 20:03

RutlandRover wrote:

I've been doing some sums.

I think I found LPGC's website (it has the same name at least): http://www.lpgc.co.uk/index_files/Page600.htm

Fully fitted price is from £1300, DIY kit is from £814. Second hand eBay kit is £300.

Guestimated MPG's of 15 for LPG and 19 for petrol.

Break-even mileages are roughly 12,250 for fully fitted, 7,700 for the DIY kit and 2,800 for the eBay kit.

I've owned the car just under 1 year and I've done just under 6K miles for just recreational use. My mileage is jumping up to around 55 miles per day until August at which point it drop again to unknown amount. Unless I buy another car after this, the mileage will increase again.

The LPGC systems are listed as "multi point sequential" but the eBay one is just multi point, so it's not quite comparing apples with apples.

Is sequential significantly/noticeably better than regular multi point?

Are used kits from eBay not even worth considering?

You have the right website for Simon (LPGC) there.

The kit your looking at will need at least some bits if you go the eBay route - and bear in mind its a used kit at that with no comeback if it fails a few months down the line. Tank may or may not be OK, but they do only have 10 years life if you need it certified. Injectors and vapourisers wear out, and new ones will perform better (and are cheaper to replace with new ones than trying to find older compatible ones). The kit your looking at with the manifold will need a spud removing from the manifold as its been broken, not major but thats just what i can spot from the photos to start with. You'd also want to consider replacing all the hoses etc plus supply your own run from the tank to the engine bay.

The lpg forum http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/index.php (which many of the users here are on as well) is worth a look through. Also worth a look for prices on the likes of TinleyTech and LPGshop to get an idea of prices for kits etc.

Its worth contacting Simon (I've got a kit working on my Focus from him, and another kit ready to fit to the Discovery once its got its MOT sorted) as he will be able to advise more precisely what to do and where to place stuff if you wish to do most of the work yourself. Either way it still needs calibrating/setting up, and thats where your most likely to hit problems later.

There was a few systems which were halfway between single point and sequential. Would have used a distributor arrangement to supply gas to each cylinder rather than filling the manifold with gas via a carb-like arrangement. These would be very out of date now but what your looking at on eBay just looks like an older sequential system nothing more.

17 April 2017 - 20:06

RutlandRover wrote:

Out of date tank?

Do the tanks need renewing at certain intervals?

gordonjcp wrote:

LPGC would tell you more but they're only meant to be used for ten years or something.

They are supposed to be pressure tested at 10 years, the cost of doing so (and removing tank etc to do so) is supposed to outweigh the cost of replacing the tank outright. To get the installation on the drivelpg (uklpg) register it needs to be certififed, to certify it the tank should be within its test date. If your insurer requires it to be on the register this may be an issue with a used kit.

As above LPGC will probably elaborate on this point.

28 April 2017 - 22:05

South Elmsall or WF9 2DS > http://www.lpgc.co.uk/

If its the crankshaft sensor I'd expect petrol to be affected as well?

Also added a note in to the previous post - you might want to check they will supply the software with the cable, not sure offhand how easy the stag software is to find.

28 April 2017 - 22:23

Gilbertd wrote:

I've got 9 different versions of Stag software, no idea which one would be needed for the ISA2 though. But that would suggest it's readily available.

Looks like the software is the easier to sort - direct from stag @ http://www.ac.com.pl/download-center-Software

This one looks right to me - at least if the OP can get a lead then sorting software should be simple

AcGasSynchro v1.14.1.0 (STAG-200, STAG-300)
Controllers: STAG 300, STAG 200
SetupAcGasSynchro-1.14.1.0.exe (STAG-200, STAG-300)

28 April 2017 - 21:54

dazer2000 wrote:

Lpgc wrote:

Unlikely I know, but a dodgy TPS would have potential to mess up both gear changes and fuelling..

Likely that the connection issue is as Gilbert said, wrong cable, or the installer might have tried to use wrong Stag software. Some installers that recently started fitting Stag may only have Stag Qbox software, or installers that dabbled with Stag in it's early days may only have older Stag software, neither of which are compatible with ISA2, Some connection issues can be sorted as easily as pulling the LPG system fuse and putting back in. If the installer didn't know what cable or software to use for such a common system I wouldn't be very confident of their abilities...

A lot of installers who fit Stag hardly bother to address pressure and nozzle size. For any type of injectors selected in software the Stag will suggest a minimum allowable pulse duration, sometimes this can mean running rich at idle and during over-run (but the real issue in the case of a P38 would be pressure / nozzle size). Most installers who fit Stag don't bother to do a proper manual job of calibration, instead they rely on the system's auto-tuning facility... This doesn't work well in the best of circumstances but if the vehicle develops a fault (like a broken lambda) the autotune can really mess up calibration if left enabled.

Simon

He gave command over to the lpg shop who tried for an hour and only after this did he suggest the lead may be wrong ! O and £90 later as well, shall i run her on gas or not ?

You'd be able to get the lead for it for a lot less than the £90 you mention. TBH if they have charged you £90 and not fixed it to boot either then I'd be inclined to go elsewhere. Given that it tries to work on gas suggests the ECU is trying to work, so you should be able to connect to it with the right lead and software.

http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/stagkme-usb-lead/ < this appears to be the right lead to me, but if you contact TinleyTech with the model of your ECU they should be OK to confirm. You might want to check if it comes with the software as well at the same time, if not WTV may have a suitable lead with the software

Some info I got from Simon when getting my kit pointed out that the top part of the inlet manifold crosses over on the thor engines, where are your nozzles drilled into the manifold (if its in the top banana pipes bit then the injector plumbing could be wrong - Meaning that as it tries to adjust one bank it actually adjusts the other to some degree and will obviously get in a mess). A photo of the pipework might help to answer if thats the case if your not sure.

Oxford Autogas fit systems other than Stag (they are actually just a couple of miles off junction 8 of the M40, in what was a petrol station and garage in a small village) So could be a better bet than some, though i've never used them personally. Alternatively take it to someone who can definitely sort it. Simon being the obvious person, but hes a long way from you.

10 May 2017 - 22:32

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Just read something interesting on another forum. Guy with similar problems was getting P1319. He doesn't mention the O2 sensors though. Says car running not to bad on lpg but on petrol was rubbish. He tried all sorts from coil pack, ht leads, nothing worked. He eventually took it to landrover who plugged it in, reset the fuel values and it was fixed.

The reply to him was someone saying that the long term fuel trims were so far out that the short term trims cant go wide enough to fuel it properly and that the LPG should be serviced and adjusted up properly.

Any of that apply to me?

You should be able to view the trims in Torque - What are they showing? Both banks and long and short term?

15 May 2017 - 20:01

Morat wrote:

I've had cars dump coolant on me twice, and both times I knew it was happening. Think WW2 Destroyer and Smokescreen.

All depends where it ends up leaking and what it hits on its way to the ground - I've had it happen once and only noticed when i saw the fog behind me in the rear view mirror seemed to be following me, and then smelt it once stopped as it was spraying onto the exhaust manifold from a split plastic pipe.

18 May 2017 - 21:39

N22 is quite nice compared to some other parts of London - Harlesden or Thornton Heath for example!

19 May 2017 - 17:34

Gilbertd wrote:

BrianH wrote:

N22 is quite nice compared to some other parts of London - Harlesden or Thornton Heath for example!

N22 is Harlesden which is why I said that one but I agree on Thornton Heath, and quite a few other areas that are just as bad......

Looks more like Wood Green? Nw10 is Harlesden. Though neither is recommended!

25 May 2017 - 22:46

Orangebean wrote:

enter image description here
I'm scratching my head trying to make sense of this, so, thinking out loud, just talking engine ECM for now...
As measured temperature goes up, resistance and voltage drop. As voltage "seen" by ECm is lower then ECM will give a diagnostics temperature as higher than actual. Schoolboy maths on the ratios between "is" volts and "should be" volts comes back with the sort of diagnostics temps that I've been getting.
Time to take the bloody sensor out I think. I'll check resistance of cables, but as there are errors on both sides (BECM and ECM) and the two sides of the sensor have their own separate earths it has to be the sensor. Doesn't explain why the temp gauge is under-reading, but if one thermistor is the wrong value, then it's possible the other is too.
Have to let the thing cool down before I can pull the alternator. Boy this car's hard work...

If your chasing air locks its possible you might have air stuck round where the sensor sits? So taking it out might help bleeding the air out anyway?

10 June 2017 - 19:16

Orangebean wrote:

Now that has to be the nastiest atrocity of a P38 that I've seen for a long time!
Funniest thing is that the bidding is up to £1500 already. There are some huge optimists out there.

Whats more surprising is that there were 9 different people mad enough to put a bid on it. Though of course its eBay, and nothings sold till the money changes hands!

04 June 2017 - 19:56

It might be worth a shot with some contact cleaner first - Mine decided to play up in such a way that the car wouldn't start, but seemed to show all gears except 3/2/1 (blank on those). Thats on a Disco 2 though so may behave slightly differently, though its the same switch as far as I can tell.

I took it off and sprayed it with contact cleaner down the hole that the wires go into (mostly as it was stuck in a place it couldn't stay in for long) and its been fine since, though i have got another switch since then just in case (as it prevented it starting).

08 June 2017 - 16:37

Orangebean wrote:

Here's what the early XYZ units look like, full of cr@p and opened up!
enter image description here
I can't imagine much contact cleaner will find its way into those microswitches if just squirted through the vent hole so think you were lucky there BrianH

It did get around half a can of it in there! Its been ok since, but i'm expecting it to play up again hence getting hold of a replacement

05 June 2017 - 18:20

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

BrianH wrote:

It might be worth a shot with some contact cleaner first - Mine decided to play up in such a way that the car wouldn't start, but seemed to show all gears except 3/2/1 (blank on those). Thats on a Disco 2 though so may behave slightly differently, though its the same switch as far as I can tell.

I took it off and sprayed it with contact cleaner down the hole that the wires go into (mostly as it was stuck in a place it couldn't stay in for long) and its been fine since, though i have got another switch since then just in case (as it prevented it starting).

Cheers, but for the tenner at the scrapyard, i'd rather be safe and go with the new one rather than take the old one off the car, open it up, potentially break something in the process and then be stuck with no car to get anywhere.

Not suggesting taking it apart - I've seen photos of the insides of them and that doesn't look like a good idea to me. Though if you can pick up one thats ok that cheaply it would be a good idea. IF it works!

08 June 2017 - 11:50

BrianH wrote:

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

BrianH wrote:

It might be worth a shot with some contact cleaner first - Mine decided to play up in such a way that the car wouldn't start, but seemed to show all gears except 3/2/1 (blank on those). Thats on a Disco 2 though so may behave slightly differently, though its the same switch as far as I can tell.

I took it off and sprayed it with contact cleaner down the hole that the wires go into (mostly as it was stuck in a place it couldn't stay in for long) and its been fine since, though i have got another switch since then just in case (as it prevented it starting).

Cheers, but for the tenner at the scrapyard, i'd rather be safe and go with the new one rather than take the old one off the car, open it up, potentially break something in the process and then be stuck with no car to get anywhere.

Not suggesting taking it apart - I've seen photos of the insides of them and that doesn't look like a good idea to me. Though if you can pick up one thats ok that cheaply it would be a good idea. IF it works!

This stuff or similar (any halfway decent factors or car parts store should have something similar)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CarPlan-WBS400-Bright-Spark-400ml/dp/B00499DFP0/

Mine started playing up on starting - it wouldn't crank, suspected it was either the starter motor beginning to die or the alarm playing up. Till it decided to not start at all at 9pm on the Friday before the last bank holiday weekend. Once it decided to do it consistantly it was much easier to troubleshoot!.

Getting the spare one wouldn't be a bad idea either way though.