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Good board from my car from previous MY. No Faraday cage. Is the sub-board a filter? (Wrote this before hearing how Marty solved it).

We need both cars working for Monday so we'll leave the faulty car on charge and in the furthest space.

3rd gen boards like this one are £169.49 from East Coast 4x4. There's 200 percent brand tax on the LR version from LR Direct so we've ignored that.

I assume we'll need to use the Nanocom to match the 4 digit codes? Sooz car wouldn't start without it fitted.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LvJyc7zxu1CVGMWo9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PJ3DnvM3NfcuPtSn6

This is the bad one from Sooz 2001 car.
It's screened.

If pic doesn't work can we work through fixing it. It's worth a thousand words! No text or description changes, tag direct from forum software

![enter image description here](https://photos.app.goo.gl/dNRNum3Afata7PfA8 "enter image title here")

Right. Humble pie time.

Pulling the EAS timer hadn't stopped the cycling, just as you' predicted. We didn't wait long enough. It did reduce the current to 0.55. But running was still 2.0/2.5 mins.

Sooz followed the flow chart, mapped it back to the fuses and found F15 to be the cure:

  • Rear Wiper
  • RF Receiver
  • Tailgate Central Locking
  • Left and Right Hand Amps
  • Subwoofer
  • Load Area Lamps

From your advice I concluded I dismissed the RF in haste. We swapped the cars around. They're literally side by side.

The cycling has stopped. Only at this point I remembered Mr Griffith's the physics teacher saying "All electromagnetic waves are inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source "

That means the car has around 1/9th to 1/16th less signal in the space furthest from my workshop. Which used to be my home office and has a burglar alarm and WiFi access point...

My car, oddly, is unaffected by being closer. We're pulling out Sooz RF module for comparison.

Thanks again. Humble pie is yummy now we are closing in on a fix.

Okay, removing the EAS delay relay stopped the cycling. Thank you!

Sooz is going over the flowchart to decide what keeps waking it up, as she designs train signalling systems for a living.

I'm looking forward to just following instructions for the rest of the day!

davew wrote:

Guessing you already know about the alarm/RF problem plus the BeCM staying awake for over 2 minutes etc ? If not search for BeCM SID on here...
As for the 0.8-.9A drain it could be a few things (!!) but I would start with the EAS... so try pulling out its Timer Relay under the LH seat ?!

Probably the easiest way to 'bypass the drivers door switch' is just to use a screwdriver to simulate the striker ?
Needs a calm environment (eg. garage) of course due to motion detector (alarm)

I'm aware of the RF issue, we fell foul of CCTV in my car. But my almost identical (1 year younger) Vogue parked next to hers isn't showing the same symptom. I've also seen the joke "solution" with the aluminium box on the circuit board.

I thought the BeCM timeout was longer, so I've been giving it 15 minutes.

We've removed the CD changer and Satnav from the boot area. Satnav head unit TBA.

Thanks for the tip about the black timer relay. Wed pulled the under bonnet one with fuse F29 (but missed fuse F40). I'll put those back and do what you said.

I'll see if can figure out where to stick the screwdriver for the drivers door!

Thanks for the help. This forum is priceless.

PS I'm leaning towards it being something inside the car, as there's a lot of stuff powered while ignition is off, right?

Sooz car is flattening its battery every couple of days. I've invested in a Kaiweets HT206D Amp Clamp and nerfed the bonnet switch so everything sleeps with the bonnet up. The pattern after leaving the car double locked over an hour is 0.25-0.35 for 2 mins, then 0.80-090 for 2.5 minutes. My plan is to pull each fuse during the high drain phase to see when it drops, and by how much.

1 Does anyone recognise this pattern?

2 How do I bypass the driver's side door switch to test the ones under the seat if the under-bonnet fuses don't reveal a problem?

The cones in the subwoofer if my P38 Vogue have shredded. I'd post a picture but I can never get it to work.

It is an XQA100070.

They measure 3 ohms, so must be 4 with impedance...

But I'm clueless on power for speaker systems.

Thanks everyone. The hologram thing is a great tip, but I normally buy from reputable outlets. Your comments have put me off eBay!

Bosch F 00C 2G2 029

Rare as rocking horse poop and obscenely expensive.

1 What's the Bosch part number for the MAF without the plastic tunnel?

Euro Car Parts are taking the p*** at £200 for the tunnel version.

2 Would you ever buy a non-Bosch copy?

Found it. It doesn't look great.

EVAP Solenoid
enter link description here

My 2000 P38 Vogue is starts okay, after a minute or two RPM drops below 500 and is, understandably lumpy. This lasts for about 30-40 seconds, then recovers.

It's been doing it for a while but has recently become much worse.

MAF was replaced about 20k ago.

Gilbertd wrote:

Turn it anti-clockwise, it is a bayonet style fit.

Got it. Thanks. I didn't realise what they were until the penny dropped about the colours.

Button backlight and telltale

New switch fitted, MoT test passed. I want to see if I can upgrade the old switch to LED. What's the trick to taking the cap off to get at the inside? Looks like a tooth either side but lifted both and it won't budge.

I'm sceptical of the longevity claims too, hence the (allegedly). 100k hours is 4,167 days... So it's probably an estimate, a typo from 10,000 or an outright lie! But they have no physical filament, run cooler and resist shock and vibration better when turned on than hot tungsten. Each to their own.

Garvin wrote:

Never understood the fetish for LED dash lights

It depends on the application. They are an order of magnitude more efficient and can run cooler, so they last much longer.

Headlamp applications tend to run hot but still last longer then halogens and are very bright because they're efficient. It exposes the weakness of setting regulations on the wrong unit - Watts. I imagine they'll switch to lumens or lux soon, if they haven't already. They aren't type approved, though, and they're getting better at detecting them. I use the high pressure xenon filament upgrades from Phillips and Ring night from ABD. Love'em.

Interior lights also have wattage significantly less than the incandescent equivalents (about a fifth to a tenth), run cool and can last 100,000 hours (allegedly!) Having just had the kick panel, binnacle, radio and centre panel out it actually wasn't as bad as I expected... But the less often I have to do it, the better. In the summer I'm going to take the entire dash out, replace everything with LEDs and out it back knitting I'll be dead before any of them fails.

Another bonus is that reduced power consumption means you might not kill your battery if you accidentally leave an interior light on. My wife's tailgate didn't latch one evening and she missed it because she thought it was the delay timer ... It ran flat and that de-synced the immobiliser and BeCM. LEDs MIGHT have prevented that.

Oops! I've been peeing up the wrong tree, haven't I? I had completely forgotten the telltale for the fog light is IN the switch.

I'll order a replacement switch or two from eBay or pop over to CWS in the morning. I can fit one and LED the other at my leisure.

Sorry, mate... you have the patience of a saint.

That looks very similar to the ones in the back of the HVAC display, R509T LED B8.3D 12V 2W Panel & Dashboard Bulbs

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/r509t-led-b8.3d-12v-2w-panel-and-dashboard-bulbs.html

I adore LR Direct. It does make the LR "brand tax" a bit obvious... I bought Lemförder track rod and drag link to avoid a massive markup for them changing the box!

Thanks for the prompt reply. That's a weight off my mind. I edited the post a couple of times while you were writing your reply... there's a full set of LEDs for sale... Link in post.

You can choose colour for the 3 dial backlights, the rest are white. I assume the colours are in the sockets because they tell you to remove the green coating for the dials if you want a different colour.. I'm sticking with green.

My 4.6 Vogue failed the MoT Test today because the fog light telltale bulb has blown. Obviously, I'll be replacing everything in the instrument cluster with LEDs. Googling has revealed nothing because step-by-step instructions for instrument cluster removal seem to have disappeared from certain major sources. Baffling because they would be tiny, even with pics. Obv. I have 10 days to avoid a full re-test.

Can it be done without taking the whole dash out? I found a YouTube video for that but don't want to do it unnecessarily.

Planning to buy this set unless someone warns me otherwise:
https://embertonimperial.com/products/land-range-rover-p38-green-led-dash-dial-binnacle-instrument-bulbs-v8-diesel

Crank position sensor. They seem to fail around the 80k mark, usually in hot weather. They had to leave the car ticking over for long periods for under bonnet heat soak to reproduce the problem.