Gilbertd wrote:
Turn it anti-clockwise, it is a bayonet style fit.
Got it. Thanks. I didn't realise what they were until the penny dropped about the colours.
New switch fitted, MoT test passed. I want to see if I can upgrade the old switch to LED. What's the trick to taking the cap off to get at the inside? Looks like a tooth either side but lifted both and it won't budge.
I'm sceptical of the longevity claims too, hence the (allegedly). 100k hours is 4,167 days... So it's probably an estimate, a typo from 10,000 or an outright lie! But they have no physical filament, run cooler and resist shock and vibration better when turned on than hot tungsten. Each to their own.
Garvin wrote:
Never understood the fetish for LED dash lights
It depends on the application. They are an order of magnitude more efficient and can run cooler, so they last much longer.
Headlamp applications tend to run hot but still last longer then halogens and are very bright because they're efficient. It exposes the weakness of setting regulations on the wrong unit - Watts. I imagine they'll switch to lumens or lux soon, if they haven't already. They aren't type approved, though, and they're getting better at detecting them. I use the high pressure xenon filament upgrades from Phillips and Ring night from ABD. Love'em.
Interior lights also have wattage significantly less than the incandescent equivalents (about a fifth to a tenth), run cool and can last 100,000 hours (allegedly!) Having just had the kick panel, binnacle, radio and centre panel out it actually wasn't as bad as I expected... But the less often I have to do it, the better. In the summer I'm going to take the entire dash out, replace everything with LEDs and out it back knitting I'll be dead before any of them fails.
Another bonus is that reduced power consumption means you might not kill your battery if you accidentally leave an interior light on. My wife's tailgate didn't latch one evening and she missed it because she thought it was the delay timer ... It ran flat and that de-synced the immobiliser and BeCM. LEDs MIGHT have prevented that.
Oops! I've been peeing up the wrong tree, haven't I? I had completely forgotten the telltale for the fog light is IN the switch.
I'll order a replacement switch or two from eBay or pop over to CWS in the morning. I can fit one and LED the other at my leisure.
Sorry, mate... you have the patience of a saint.
That looks very similar to the ones in the back of the HVAC display, R509T LED B8.3D 12V 2W Panel & Dashboard Bulbs
https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/r509t-led-b8.3d-12v-2w-panel-and-dashboard-bulbs.html
I adore LR Direct. It does make the LR "brand tax" a bit obvious... I bought Lemförder track rod and drag link to avoid a massive markup for them changing the box!
Thanks for the prompt reply. That's a weight off my mind. I edited the post a couple of times while you were writing your reply... there's a full set of LEDs for sale... Link in post.
You can choose colour for the 3 dial backlights, the rest are white. I assume the colours are in the sockets because they tell you to remove the green coating for the dials if you want a different colour.. I'm sticking with green.
My 4.6 Vogue failed the MoT Test today because the fog light telltale bulb has blown. Obviously, I'll be replacing everything in the instrument cluster with LEDs. Googling has revealed nothing because step-by-step instructions for instrument cluster removal seem to have disappeared from certain major sources. Baffling because they would be tiny, even with pics. Obv. I have 10 days to avoid a full re-test.
Can it be done without taking the whole dash out? I found a YouTube video for that but don't want to do it unnecessarily.
Planning to buy this set unless someone warns me otherwise:
https://embertonimperial.com/products/land-range-rover-p38-green-led-dash-dial-binnacle-instrument-bulbs-v8-diesel
Crank position sensor. They seem to fail around the 80k mark, usually in hot weather. They had to leave the car ticking over for long periods for under bonnet heat soak to reproduce the problem.
Thanks, mate. I might try to get it back and do it myself. I think garages are at their best with a known issue and a defined task.
My wife's 01 Vogue keeps cutting out after running for about 30 minutes.
The battery is only a few months old and the vehicle has been used regularly with a bit of a gap over Christmas.
Garage's Autologic is spitting out 4 codes:
108 Continuous Power Supply Interruption
148 Interface Immobiliser
107 ECU Power Supply
A5H4/165 Generic take to Dealer
Crank Position Sensor shows okay.
Googling turns up bad ground and faulty fuse box as possible causes of 108 - and possibly the others? I've asked them to check.
We're really buggered here. Garage does plenty of RRs/LRs but they've not seen this set of symptoms and it's intermittent, albeit reproducable.
Okay. All sorted.
Passenger side carpet slightly damp.
WD40ed the EAS ECU connector.
Found a tiny seeping leak in the pipe with the lilac coloured label. Missed it the first time because my dilute washing up liquid needed pepping up with a fresh dose.
Saw back two spring valves were OPEN.
Watched live values creeping up.
15 minutes door ajar.
Pressure valve CLOSE
Job done.
Inlet valve is shut...
Had an EAS FAILURE on the way home.
Turned out to be COMPRESSOR FAILURE.
On reaching home I turned off the ignition and heard a hissing as the car visibly sagged.
The compressor dues actually run, but the system won't repressurise with a short open.
I'll leak check with washing up liquid in daylight but that hiss and sag has me thinking a valve is stuck open...
Need the car tomorrow night (Monday).
Accelerated diagnostic steps would be much appreciated.
Just tried ordering, wouldn't arrived for a month. Cancelled.
Out of curiosity, do our starter motors exceed 200A? Is there any useful information up that high?
Gilbertd wrote:
I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/UT210E-Current-Meters-Capacitance-Tester/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ?th=1 which isn't autoranging but that makes it better for measuring a very low current drain like you are looking for. You can't blow it up, or at least I haven't been able to yet, and if you've got it set on the 2A scale and more than that is being drawn, it just shows it as an error. To closer meet your spec you'd be better looking at this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNI-T-UT210D-Digital-Current-Capacitance/dp/B0753FY711/ref=sr_1_2? but you may find it isn't as good at very low levels. I've also got a 1000A autoranging clamp meter but that doesn't register anything at all until there's at least 10A flowing.
I know what you mean, Fluke do a beautiful graphical meter that is virtually a handheld oscilloscope but the price of one of those is eye watering!
Thank you!
The second one should be perfect:
"Testing AC/DC Current Range is 20A/200A,Resolution Ratio Up to 10mA When Measuremnet Range in 20A"
Have a parasitic drain on a cc 2001 Vogue. I've blown at least two meters in the past so serial current measurement is clearly not my forte.
The AA guy showed me his "amp clamp" and briefly outlined how useful it is... I want one.
I'd like Auto-Ranging from milliamps up to starter motor levels (400-600?)
Hertz and Duty Cycle seem like they might be useful.
I don't really like unbranded or obscure items, because they have no reputational skin in the game.
Fluke are way too expensive.
Draper don't have the clamp style on their website, but are out there.
Any recommendations?
Playing with it just now we have an additional symptom, we can't store reverse dip.
Non reverse memory stores, so both buttons are working. As soon as we engage R, it won't activate MIRROR DIP STORE.
On Sooz '02 Vogue both door mirrors dip perfectly when you select reverse. Coming out of reverse only the right hand (driver's) door returns to the normal position.
However, the passenger door mirror can be set back where it should be using the controls in the centre console. But it's a ball/ovary ache.
Ideas, please.