Back story- I got my 2001 dhse around 3 yrs ago, basket case really but I like a project! Renewed and serviced everything and coughed up for a nano, in it for the long haul! Anyway, ac didn't work and I knew nothing about ac so I booked it in for a regas at kwikfit around a year after she was put back on the road, vac test passed, regassed and lovely cold air but failed after approx 3 months. Left it around a year then booked her in at a local landrover indy, they found a leak in the condensor using dye and a uv torch. I renewed the condenser and the compressor to condenser hose and took it back to the indy, they confirmed no more leaks and regassed the system. Lovely cold air again but failed again after around 9 months. Left it another year until today when I booked it in at a local garage who, according to their website they can find any leak using nitrogen and a sniffer probe, Google EAC in telford, shropshire to see what I'm on about. They have said they found no leak for the 20 min test. Although my knowledge of AC is minimal the bloke in reception suggested a full ac service and dye added to the system to find the leak! I was a bit pissed at that comment so paid the bill, £70, and left. They did suggest also a longer pressure test for 35 mins and a full diagnosis, I also questioned that and got a load of flim flam, I knew more than him and couldn't speak to the tech who did the sniff test as he had "gone home".
They were my last chance really and I've lost any faith I might have had in garages. In all my life I've only gone to garages for tyres and even that's gone wrong twice, and tracking which cost me 2 ruined tyres in 4k miles.
So where do I go from here?
I'm handy, not too stupid (except car electrics but I'm getting better!) Can I DIY leak find on an empty system?
Tia
Chris.

What I've found with island is if the order qualifies for free postage it takes longer to come. 3 days if I pay and 5 if I don't.

And mines a diesel 38 and I have no idea what that petrol part looks like either!

Good point with the heat. I made a ss exhaust for my motorhome but used the original downpipe which was around 3ft long, ss from that to a side exit silencer and that was fine for the 6 yrs I owned it but things would be a lot cooler that far from the turbo.

You can mig weld stainless using the wire and gas used for mild steel.

Fixed! (I hope..)
Googling about I found a few posts, one of which was yours on rr.net about unplugging the motors at the hvac panel and plugging back in. I first read the nano and the distribution stall fault was still there and wouldn't clear, then I did the unplug/plug thing then ran through all the values and the values were all changing on all three which the rh blend wasn't doing yesterday.
Book symbol gone, no faults on nano.
Turned the ignition on and off and still no book.
Glad I tried the unplug/plug thing first so thanks!
Hope I haven't spoke to soon.
Taking the steering wheel off next, battery disconnected while I have lunch, and stripping that down to release all the buttons so I can redo the decals, another first for me.

Cheers Richard, quite new to p38s and never had a diagnosis reader before, so new to nano too.
Rubbish on computers too just to add to my woes hahaha 😆.
Only got a smart phone.
I'll have another play tomorrow. I did look at values/inputs and did see things that didn't look 'right' but that was on the rh blend motor and nano says that's got no faults.

That's what nano says.
Back story...
Book symbol up, nano says pot fault on rh blend motor. Replaced the pot on that yesterday, horrible job. That fault has now gone but a new one has popped up as per title. I should say that I removed the DISTRIBUTION motor first for a look see inside to check for wear, bad joints etc then put it back together making sure the gear arrows were enligned, then refitted it insuring that the flats were mated correctly. Then I removed and repaired the BLEND motor pot.
Refitted it all, plugged in the hvac and clocks but not the radio or upper console with the time clock in and read the nano. Pot fault on the blend is gone but I now have the title fault that won't clear on the DISTRIBUTION motor.
I've taken the distribution motor off again and opened it up, can't see anything wrong, enligned the gears again and refitted to the box, observing the flats locations(again). Flaps move freely and , indeed, I can see the box gear wheels moving through their full movement, air changes direction as expected, recalibrated a few times, fault won't clear, book up.
I have noticed, might be relevant, that if I turn the ignition off then on again the book has gone whilst the hvac motors are whirring away for maybe 15 seconds (self test?) Then the book comes back as soon as the motor(s) stop.
TIA.
Chris.

A Google search has sort of explained where they are, a real pain to change.

Gilbertd wrote:

2 wire one is a recirculate blend motor. Swapping the motor should get it working. When you put it back together, make sure you align the arrows on the cog on the pot and the main output cog. That will set it at mid point on the travel so you just slot it on and rotate the whole thing until the screw holes line up.

Nice one! All up and running, tested with the nano too. Where's the recirculate blend motor? I thought there was only 3, 2x blend and 1 distribute? Are they on the blower motors? Had a look at the right hand blower and couldn't see anything on that.
One thing I did notice on my friends , that we've been fixing the blend motor on, is that you can hardly hear the motors moving with the nano but mine make crunchy noises but do move as they should. I've got the book symbol up which is a recent thing, nano reports pot fault. His book symbol has been on for 2 yrs but now out.

OK, we've taken them apart and the 2 wire one has no pot in it. We've tested the dead blend motor with a 9v battery and it's deffo dead so We've unsoldered the good motor off the ebay one and are about to unsolder the original one to swop them over.

We've hit a snag!
The old blend motor(2001) has 4 wires, the replacement s/h one off ebay has only 2 wires , a yellow and a brown, are we stuffed?

leolito wrote:

Richard your "little jobs" they always turn into an adventure!!!

Me I had a simpler life ... after months of procrastinating, finally I decided to deal with the broken bumper (front), for which I had a plastic outer part in good shape, but without the metal part. I took mine off, unglued the metal part, and was ready to transfer it to the other when I noticed the sides in the "plastic" were shaved off, probably somebody ripped them off when splitting the metal inner part with the plastic outer part. So off loaded everything and went up the road where there is a shop where they do "plasticky" things, so they can weld new fittings to fix the metal sides. Will take a few days but oh well.

In the process, unfortunately removing one of the breather hose into a fog light, it was very stuck and it broke the little pipe in the body of the light. Any ideas to fix that? The stub that was left into the hose disintegrated when I was trying to remove it whole .... darn

Bit of tube same diameter or close and glue it in with araldite or something. What's the O D of the stub?

Working assistants are a pita. LOL!

That's handy to know, Ta.
Ducting needs cutting to?

I'm not 100% but I've had a multi-tool for yrs and I 'think" I couldn't get it in.
Can't honestly remember. Once my mate has done his and I've got it clear in my head I might do mine only because mine sound a bit crunchy when I drive them with the nano.
I'm guess the passenger side one, which actually doesn't sound too bad, involves removing the glove box and possibly the duct cutting? Read a few horror stories about the glove box .

Yeah, he's done all that before to get the motor off so he could turn the flap by hand as it went in the middle of winter and was stuck on cold. I talked him through it as I hadn't long done the O rings on mine.
I told him cutting the ducting was the worst part, was for me anyway using a broken hacksaw blade wrapped in tape. He heated a knife on his gas stove and just melted it through! Quick and easy if you're careful.

Roger that.
Cheers guys.

Not mine but a friends 2001.
He has got the dead motor off drivers side rhd and intends to fit the new but second hand one this Saturday, just over 2 days time. What he intends to do is turn the flap by hand to fully cold, connect the motor and send that to fully cold with the hvac temp button and mount it, the drive shaft has a 'D' profile and he will adjust the flap until the motor will engage then test for proper operation. I've never done a blend motor but I'm concerned that this is maybe a too simplistic method?

Harv wrote:

I’ve been meaning to do something like that for several years now but so far other items have had higher priority.

66.5 cms and 11cms.
Measure from the LEFT hand top of the inner skin of the tailgate, that's the long measurement across then the shorter measurement IN from the outeredge of the black plastic trim running across the top of the tailgate. Mark at that intersection.
That's the centre of what ever size hole you make but 22mm is fine, I can get my finger in there comfortably.