Back story... the hs worked great up until the last couple of frosts earlier this year but then stopped. Decided to investigate this the other day. Both relays clicked so off with the plenum (much quicker to say then do!) And a poke with a dmm showed healthy voltage at both white connectors (disconnected) using both the battery and the ground stud for the hs. The ground stud looked a tad rusty though so I went to remove the nut and the stud sheared off. I'm hoping (bear with me here, I'm keen but green with leccy stuff!) that the stud was maybe causing high resistance and therefore the becm wasn't seeing the necessary load so it wouldn't work the hs. The ground stud is the only common connection under the plenum for both sides of the hs and as they both stopped working at the same time that sounds plausible to me.
That ground stud is now all repaired and finally to my question.
How can I test that the screen is now working? I have nano and a dmm and enthusiasm but that's it.
Googling about has led me to believe that a clamp meter may be useful?
Chris

Also, I only used a wooden lollipop stick, cotton buds and contact cleaner on the copper contacts, cotton buds and contact cleaner only on the screen which came away clean anyway after removing the old ribbon.
It's all pointing to a dodgy screen methinks.

Cheers marty, it's all back together now but there was no screw plastic damage and I cleaned the zebra strip just incase.
I even tightened the 3 screws around the screen first before doing the others but kept getting the same result after 3 trys at it, got fed up as lots of other jobs were calling so stuck the plastic all back together so I could still use the car.
I can't say, annoyingly, if ALL the pixels WERE there in warm dry weather, I just know the screen was much better in warm weather. I've not helped myself there by not actually noting if there were pixels missing, I just remember loads were in cold weather.

Get a dehumidifier in there? I've read that works well.

That worked on my phone ta.
Identical really to the rpi video so I've done it right. I'll try disassembling it again tomorrow and clean the zebra strip this time.
Dunno how these things work but is it possible the screen itself is faulty?

I didn't find the job at all difficult to be fair but I am curious as to how a solid lump as such, the new zebra strip block that is , can carry current to each individual contact without shorting across! Leccy stuff isn't my strong point hahaha!

Site not available sadly.

You could try removing the knee panel, kick panel, internal windscreen pillar trim,plastic sill threshold and doorcard and get inside with a torch whilst someone plays a watering can over the lower a post area door hinge and slowly working their way up to the roof.

It's the bottom of the first digit on the rhs so 16 would have the bottom of the 1 missing. Just fitted a new zebra strip from rpi engineering and followed their youtube video. Cleaned the contacts until they were spotless using contact cleaner and wooden cocktail sticks. Put it back together and the above problem, so took it apart again and found nothing wrong reassembled and the same fault.
I did the strip because in the colder weather it lost bits here and there but worked fine once warmed up or the milder drier weather arrived. I'd like to say that all the pixels were there on a warm day but I'm doubting myself now.!
Is it possible one of the copper contacts isn't quite as spotless as I thought? Or maybe I should clean the new zebra strip with contact cleaner incase that's got something on it? It came stuck to a piece of card with sellotape which came off in one piece. Run out of time today but thoughts welcome before I strip it down again hopefully tomorrow.

Brilliant!

Got replacement cam kits for both front doors. I'm intending to do the passenger door first so if I have a problem and don't get the job done then I can still use the car. My query...Will the door still shut and stay shut if I need to drive it? and will it open again when I want to carry on with the job!
My father in law is terminally ill and on occasion I have to take him to hospital at short notice and the 38 is the only car he can get in and out of without too much pain.

20 is way to warm when you have a menopausal wife !

When I tried to get a later condensor I drew a blank except a new LR one, complete with fans, for £1200! That's when I discovered the mod. £250 all new parts.
I'd get some protection under those top corners, easy to do yourself, grill and slam panel off and some closed cell foam folded over them corners, reassemble.
I actually got brain freeze on a long trip a week ago or so 😄

phazed wrote:

Chrisp38 wrote:

2001 onwards I believe, mines 2001 and needed modding. Diesel though, don't know if petrol is different.

That is interesting. Mine is a 2001 so will keep that in mind…
Still got the old shorter condenser in my scrap metal pile, if your condensor is taller than this then you have the earlier easy to obtain condensor, if its the same height as my scrap one then you'll need the early condensor AND a new compressor to condensor hose either new or used off an earlier model. Plus the easy grinder work.
From memory, the new hose is £175? Condensors around £70.
The LATER condensor is 368mm tall,all other measurements are the same. The reason you need another hose is because the fitting on the condensor is different between early/ late hoses.

2001 onwards I believe, mines 2001 and needed modding. Diesel though, don't know if petrol is different.

Condensors for late models are unavailable but you can fit the earlier taller one which involves a small mod to the car with a grinder and a new compressor to condensor hose, island 4x4 do both .

Weirdly, on mine, the sides were good but the fabrication with the 'pin(s)' that locate into the rear chassis longitudinals were rotted away. I made new ones for there, reusing the pins. The steel bumper itself is very thick and when I got the car it looked scrap but after removing it (that was a feat!) and a shot blasting it was still solid. The side extensions I would have fabricated something if they were scrap.

Oh,...and I'm assuming lazy locking is the correct terminology for closing all the windows when the lock button on the fob is held down. Lol.

Do all p38s have it? My friends doesn't so I was wondering if it just wants enabling in the becm which I can do with nanocom?

Fitted them and all good except they were rears not fronts, not enough rubber trumpets to locate. Ebay sensor robbed of its rubbers so that sorted that.