Are you thinking of martys switch pack repairs? I've not seen an article about hvac button repairs but I'm a newbie! My hvac buttons seem to be sluggish (to me) but I've nowt to compare them to.
Got to remove mine at some point to do the Rippon thing, works fine except when the weather is cold and damp.
Had a bit of luck and scored 2 wabco fronts off a breaker. Got to fit them still to check they are OK.
Switch taken apart, cleaned and reassembled using a Defender door card plastic stud as the filler rod. Working again.
Contact cleaner hasn't worked but swopping over switches has confirmed it is the switch and not the wiring etc.
Looks like a similar arrangement to the switch pack switches involving a bit of welding with plastic to reinstall the dismantled and cleaned contacts. Done that before successfully on my sunroof switch so not expecting too much drama.
Brilliant news. Ta muchly!
Getting a bit fed up now of replacing front sensors, the only ones that aren't genuine wabco, had to destroy the fronts doing the ball joints nearly 2 yrs ago and fitted new aftermarket ones at the time. Doesn't seem to matter where I get them from or how much I pay they just don't last. Looking at a front and rear pair I have in stock they look identical except the cable length is an inch or so different but I'm confident that wouldn't be a fitment issue but is there another issue as to why rears can't be fitted to the front on a 2001?
Used wabco rears seem to be easy to get, fronts not so.
Thankyou!
Clive, don't take this the wrong way but the coolent tank just clips in, no tools needed, and it'll move over a bit to the left improving access quite a bit. This is on a diesel, petrol may be different? I too used a split brake pipe spanner.
Nice.
A job for when the rain stops!
Presume it's door card off to get it out?
Goes up and down off the switch pack but only goes down on the door switch, won't go back up. All other doors OK. Likely to be the door switch itself? Are they similar to the switch pack switches in that they can be stripped down and the contacts cleaned, successfully fixed my sunroof switch doing that using martys guide off here.
The coolent tank moves out of the way which helps a lot. Bit fiddley but no need to remove insulation.
If it stops again, carry the necessary tools/cable and jump the fuel pump relay socket terminals(ignition off) whilst observing the clear line to the fip, see if bubbles come through.
Sorry, 180ml in 10 secs.
There are a few simple things you can check.
Remove the plastic cover over the injectors and using a torch, look for diesel in the injector Wells and perished leak off pipes.
Change the fuel filter, drain it first,(remove it in situ, using a strap wrench and avoid disconnecting the fuel lines as they break easily) before fitting the new filter get a receptacle to catch the fuel and place it under where the fuel filter fits, remove the fusebox cover and battery cover , remove the fuel pump yellow relay front right and using a length of wire (ignition off) put one end of the wire into the nearest relay terminal(it's the one that has a different orientation to the other terminals) and the other to positive on the battery. You should, if the intake pump is good , get at least 200ml of fuel in 10 secs.
When checking the leak offs also have a good look at the wiring to number 4 injector for damage. Have a look for dampness around the fuel tank, the flow/return pipes on the intake pump corrode and cause air ingress and running problems too.
Anybody heard anything?
Chrisp38 wrote:
Me please.
Ta.
Assumed it was 20 sets of 3 printed?
So I'd like a latch set of 3 same as Richard please.
Me please.
Ta.
Just seen on a Facebook group we r p38s, got both sides, limited stock, one pair only per person.
Got mine set to 30mph mainly for the wife as we are riddled with fixed speed cameras round here and she isn't as observant as me.