A Google search has sort of explained where they are, a real pain to change.
Gilbertd wrote:
2 wire one is a recirculate blend motor. Swapping the motor should get it working. When you put it back together, make sure you align the arrows on the cog on the pot and the main output cog. That will set it at mid point on the travel so you just slot it on and rotate the whole thing until the screw holes line up.
Nice one! All up and running, tested with the nano too. Where's the recirculate blend motor? I thought there was only 3, 2x blend and 1 distribute? Are they on the blower motors? Had a look at the right hand blower and couldn't see anything on that.
One thing I did notice on my friends , that we've been fixing the blend motor on, is that you can hardly hear the motors moving with the nano but mine make crunchy noises but do move as they should. I've got the book symbol up which is a recent thing, nano reports pot fault. His book symbol has been on for 2 yrs but now out.
OK, we've taken them apart and the 2 wire one has no pot in it. We've tested the dead blend motor with a 9v battery and it's deffo dead so We've unsoldered the good motor off the ebay one and are about to unsolder the original one to swop them over.
We've hit a snag!
The old blend motor(2001) has 4 wires, the replacement s/h one off ebay has only 2 wires , a yellow and a brown, are we stuffed?
leolito wrote:
Richard your "little jobs" they always turn into an adventure!!!
Me I had a simpler life ... after months of procrastinating, finally I decided to deal with the broken bumper (front), for which I had a plastic outer part in good shape, but without the metal part. I took mine off, unglued the metal part, and was ready to transfer it to the other when I noticed the sides in the "plastic" were shaved off, probably somebody ripped them off when splitting the metal inner part with the plastic outer part. So off loaded everything and went up the road where there is a shop where they do "plasticky" things, so they can weld new fittings to fix the metal sides. Will take a few days but oh well.
In the process, unfortunately removing one of the breather hose into a fog light, it was very stuck and it broke the little pipe in the body of the light. Any ideas to fix that? The stub that was left into the hose disintegrated when I was trying to remove it whole .... darn
Bit of tube same diameter or close and glue it in with araldite or something. What's the O D of the stub?
Working assistants are a pita. LOL!
That's handy to know, Ta.
Ducting needs cutting to?
I'm not 100% but I've had a multi-tool for yrs and I 'think" I couldn't get it in.
Can't honestly remember. Once my mate has done his and I've got it clear in my head I might do mine only because mine sound a bit crunchy when I drive them with the nano.
I'm guess the passenger side one, which actually doesn't sound too bad, involves removing the glove box and possibly the duct cutting? Read a few horror stories about the glove box .
Yeah, he's done all that before to get the motor off so he could turn the flap by hand as it went in the middle of winter and was stuck on cold. I talked him through it as I hadn't long done the O rings on mine.
I told him cutting the ducting was the worst part, was for me anyway using a broken hacksaw blade wrapped in tape. He heated a knife on his gas stove and just melted it through! Quick and easy if you're careful.
Roger that.
Cheers guys.
Not mine but a friends 2001.
He has got the dead motor off drivers side rhd and intends to fit the new but second hand one this Saturday, just over 2 days time. What he intends to do is turn the flap by hand to fully cold, connect the motor and send that to fully cold with the hvac temp button and mount it, the drive shaft has a 'D' profile and he will adjust the flap until the motor will engage then test for proper operation. I've never done a blend motor but I'm concerned that this is maybe a too simplistic method?
Harv wrote:
I’ve been meaning to do something like that for several years now but so far other items have had higher priority.
66.5 cms and 11cms.
Measure from the LEFT hand top of the inner skin of the tailgate, that's the long measurement across then the shorter measurement IN from the outeredge of the black plastic trim running across the top of the tailgate. Mark at that intersection.
That's the centre of what ever size hole you make but 22mm is fine, I can get my finger in there comfortably.
Do you mean the plugs to kept dirt out until you install them and refit the air lines?
Made a neat 22mm hole in the lower tailgate carpet panel so I can manually open it with my finger if the latch fails which I've heard they can do. 22mm because that was the size of a rubber plug I had lying around.
Thick ice on the car this morning at 6am, wasn't expecting that!
Bled the air out which took seconds and she fired right up bless her.
100% not the (bosch) plugs, it's 100% air ingress, I'm just not 100% sure it's the injector, only 99%. Cold start again tomorrow morning, I'll bleed the air out first before cranking and I'm sure it'll fire right up after 1 cycle of the plugs.
Gilbertd wrote:
Chrisp38 wrote:
it's an empty box behind the battery on petrols.
Only on the Thor, it has the engine ECU in it on a GEMS.
Another lesson learnt then.!
Mate turned up and even though there was no air in the clear fuel line this morning plenty of air appeared this afternoon whilst he cranked and I observed. Bled that out and she fired up fine. I've had an issue in the past with number one injector leaking around the head joint, a new copper washer fixed that for a bit then it started leaking again. On closer inspection there was a small burr on the injector sealing face, I dressed that off, another new copper washer and its been fine for nearly 12 months but is leaking again worse than ever, tested by spraying a bit of wd40 into the well that the injector sits in. Also have a slight leak from a spill pipe nipple, not the rubber spill pipe itself but from the nipple on the injector. That will be the air ingress problem I strongly suspect.
Used good injector I'm after now. Bmw m51 engine, few on ebay but I'm waiting on a reply from a breaker I trust who usually comes up trumps.
Ordered a second hand injector
The problem I'm having at the moment is there is no available helper (my wife) to work the ignition switch while I mess about under the bonnet so I didn't get to try a cold start until this morning, 2 days later. I suspected air in the fuel line, LR helpfully fit a clear line between the filter and the injector pump. Any air showing gives me something to work on but it was full of fuel and stayed full of fuel while cranking, no sign of firing. Had to then take the wife to work in the defender so no helper again until friday!
A super busy mate might be able to swing by today for 1/2 hr so ill check glow plug and stop solenoid operation. Bit green on leccy stuff, have nanocom so ill plug that in and stare confusingly at the screen as normal for me. No panicking yet as I have the 110 200tdi which is a super starter.
A search shows a fuse and relay in the engine ecu box for the glows so I might look at them whilst waiting for my mate, it's an empty box behind the battery on petrols.
Oops, forgot the space after the quote.
And...fixed the quote lol!.
Harv wrote:
I’m not a diesel guy but if it started instantly I wouldn’t have suspected glow plugs.
Nor me but if I didn't mention the new plugs someone will have suggested fitting new ones so I was just saving replies.
I've had issues with diesel leaks around the injector washer last year and it was the same symptoms so that was my first port of call but no, all fine. Update tomorrow maybe.