The first hot day here and and the tempgauge went to max in city stop and go traffic. When makeing speed the Arrow goes back to where it belongs. A/C works fine except the two relays are too hot to touch and electric fans only turn very slow.

I remember from when I repaired the A/C and had it recharged the fans turned on a much higher speed while ambient temperature only was some 10º.
Can I start with changing the relays to see if they are at fault?

I need to take out the headlampunits. The two outer bolts come loose but not the two inner nuts mounted to the grille/bodypart. They are rusted and the boltpart going into the lampassembly turns too, I think they are slotted in some plasticpart inside the housing.
Can I simply grind off the nuts and replace the bolts not doing something stupid irreverseble? Why do I want the units out? The adjustment mechanism is corroded and won't adjust, I want to set them a bit lower.

I've got a rumble from underneath, first I thought it could be U joints (cheapest cause) but after removal of the front propshaft the mechanic/owner of the garage who gives me shelter now and then told me there was nothing wrong with them, not a single bit of play.

Our son (a happy wrencher too) is very determent in a worn right front bearing, indeed the rumble frequency could very well be the revs of the wheel at respective speeds.

Lifted it off the floor but I cannot feel any play at all, not radial, not axial. Rotating the wheel is a bit difficult being a 4x4.

If I need a new bearing there is the hub assembly for £175 (Allmakes OEM) or the Timken bearing kit (bearing, circlip, seal and nut) for £77.

Island 4x4 states this is a non DIY job but I have access to a hydraulic press (the shelter guy) and was wondering if I could do it myself, £100 difference is worth thinking it over.

What do you think?

Tony.

I'm in the process of installing LPG in my 2000 Bosch 4.6, first time so taking the steps one at the time.

I got this from a breaker as part of another deal, it came out of a totalled 4.6 Gems and the system is from 2011.

First off, where to put the injectors. I can place them on top of the plenum, they just fit under the hood as shown in the pic.

The bracket I made is not an example of fine craftmanship but it will do, the left rail has to raise over the steppermotor hose.

This is as close I can get to the inletnozzles when placed outside the plenum and will result in long tubes of about 12" , I have read not recommendable.

Another option is to place them under the bananaplenum, I can make strips to mount them to the same bolts as the petrol fuelrail.

This should result in inlet tubes of 2" max, all equal of length and a neat fit.

Disadvantage is a higher temperature and not being able to check the injectors and plugs without dismantling.

What do you guys advice? (More questions when things progress)

When I leave my 2000 4.6 for a couple of days there is a slight lowering of the bags in general, usually an inch or two.

Now and then I hear pft-pft which happens with engine running and not running, only when running it pumps itself up again and the 'pft-pft' starts again.

To take proof of the pudding I took out the timer relay and went on holiday for two weeks, today we came back and it stood on all corners exactly the way I left it.

This tells me that the bags and connections are not leaking but does that include the valveblock? Is the leveling only caused by not level parking or can O rings be leaking?

Is the heightsetting, no doubt they are not standard anymore, the cause?

Feel free to comment on this.

Slowly working my way through the list of issues I had the AC system pressure tested yesterday.
A loud hiss from under the slampanel showed a leaking condenser, indeed from under the sponge.
Ordered a no-brand from Germany but I think it is Hella for €95.- incl. p+p.
Not a bad deal I think.

I need new rear brakediscs, that is the rears have the most grooves compared to front.

Looking at Islands4x4 there are some options, beforehand I was told in the past to avoid anything that comes in a blue box so I can rule them out.

Two options draw my attention:
The Delphi rear set for £54,16 including pads

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-discs-axle-delphi-sdb000470ap-sfp500130ap-p-18224.html

or the Terrafirma set of 4 drilled and grooved for £94,99 but without pads

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-disc-drilled-grooved-ntc8780cdg-sdb000470cdg-p-28661.html

In case I want to renew the fronts at least now I have the same brand front and rear but still have to choose pads.

Q.: Do I need drilled and grooved discs? I want firm brakes that don't easily fade, especially when going downhill. Padwear is not such an issue, just renew when they need to.
If I can do with the Delphi rears I have some time to save for the fronts.

What are your opinions?

reg. Tony.

My 2000 4.6 has a 7 pin trailersocket, originally wired.

Since more and more trailers have a 13 pin plug I want to install a 13 pin socket next to the 7 pin, there is already a blind plastic cover in the bumper.

Is there a specific loom available to plug in or do I have to fabricate one myself?

Reg. Tony.

I think my 2000 4.6 is nominating itself for Marty's doorlatch test, when unlocked the locks go 'click-clack' and it happens more and more.

When driving I push the doorbutton to lock and then it stops (most of the time) so it's time to take action.

One other thing, there seems to be a weak link in the rod system, I have read a plastic connection that wears over time and can break and makes it inpossible to manually enter the EKA code when needed.

Before I pull everything apart I would like to know what part this is so I can order and replace it by way of precaution.
Any help appreciated.
Tony.

As for so many of us, my dashclock runs and stops running as it pleases.
When testing it on the bench with a spare battery for a week it did not stop running once but as soon connected in the dash it has it's own life.
The wiring is original (the T connector with purple and black wire) and whenever I put my probe on it there is 12 Volts on purple and zero resistance between black and body.
Can I run a plus directly from the fusebox and a ground directly to body or will our beloved watchdog BeCM raise objections?
Tony.

Hi guys, Tony here from The Netherlands.
I saw this forum passing by with the names of some trusted members and I thought I might join.
A new forum in developement and I am proud being the 26th member.
As the username suggests I spent most of my professional time as a ferryman on the Amsterdam waterways and retired a couple of months ago.
As for LR my first tractor was a Spanish Santana Cazorla, the 109" stationwagon with the 6 inline Rover diesel. What an engine.
I drove it in the 2,5 years we lived in Spain, hauled boats with it and was workshop aswell.
Back in The Netherlands I have owned 4 Classics over the years and now have a 2000 P38.
I hope I can contribute to members here, let's see how things go.
When it comes to serious discussions, I avoid them because English is not my native language and a debate is beyond my capabilitys.
I hope this will become a place where people respect eachother and get answers to their questions.
On another forum ruled by a mister knowitall, his first answer is always a pointer to Rave and read that carefully. I want to help people when possible and give a relevant answer.
Where are the days of the LR UK forums (I made it to engineer) when Classics were hot, chopped or stretched and 6x6 wheel drive.
I don't see that happening with a P38.
Let's make this a place where RR is the centre of the universe.
Tony.