Allright guys, it's just the way it is. I cannot justify the running costs (or should I say keeping costs) anymore of my P38 so I had to decide to sell it.
Registering it on LPG means €260 each month, that is road tax plus insurance. For that amount I may park it up on the public road without driving it one meter.
Registering it on petrol means €153 each month plus have to deal with petrolprices.
There is one escape, if I can become a G3 certificate roadtax will be €170 each month but only with a bill of an installer.
Further communication with the authorities learn that such a certificate for Rover V8 only is given when it has a Lovato vapouriser, they paid some 35000 euros to the government to be authorized. My vapouriser is Landi Renzo and is just as adjustable as others with a computer controlled system. (is this a banana country or not?)
I sold it to a gentleman who always wanted to have a well functioning P38, I told him I'm not a polisher but want everything technically to be sound, he accepted the sagging headliner and payd my asking price, I told the missus I'm almost running even.(☺)
Last night he sent me a message that after his drive home (1.5 hour) he was very satisfied and she drives lovely.
That's good to hear.
So guys, I thank you all for the cameradery and helpful tips, I'll be lurking of course and keep my mouth shut (and don't delete any threads).
For once I'll share some private info, it happened this weekend.
For my missus and me december 17 is special, it's the date we met. Romantic as I am (she believes me) I booked a hotel and romantic dinner in the east of Holland, in forrestal area near the German border, we also wanted to visit the Chrismas markets over there.
On our way I noticed the 3rd brakelight had two bulbs not working (reflection in rearscreen) and stopped at a gasstation. Send her in for coffee, in the meanwhile I looked after the bulbs by putting a screwdriver between brakepedal and driversseat. Engine was off, key in pos. 2. It took me 5 minutes to investigate, bought the new bulbs and off we went.
Oh no! Click click flat battery. Phoned our son to look at the web for a batteryshop nearby, saturday at 13:00 hrs. He found one and the guy promised me to wait, he should close in 20 minutes.
I asked a passing taxidriver to lend me some spark (I always carry the cables with me), it started right away and went off to the batteryshop, just in time and bought this 102 Ah battery for €119.- including 30% discount. It's the largest one to fit on the tray. He put a tester on the old one which was shot he said. Probably shorting on the bottom. (In fact I should have to know it, a week ago I had a flat battery over night but since then no problem).
The rest of the weekend was as expected, we had a good time with Glühwein und Bratwurst!
Moral of this story: when you plan something romantic, double check the jealous other lady in your household!
Hi guys, Tony here from The Netherlands.
I saw this forum passing by with the names of some trusted members and I thought I might join.
A new forum in developement and I am proud being the 26th member.
As the username suggests I spent most of my professional time as a ferryman on the Amsterdam waterways and retired a couple of months ago.
As for LR my first tractor was a Spanish Santana Cazorla, the 109" stationwagon with the 6 inline Rover diesel. What an engine.
I drove it in the 2,5 years we lived in Spain, hauled boats with it and was workshop aswell.
Back in The Netherlands I have owned 4 Classics over the years and now have a 2000 P38.
I hope I can contribute to members here, let's see how things go.
When it comes to serious discussions, I avoid them because English is not my native language and a debate is beyond my capabilitys.
I hope this will become a place where people respect eachother and get answers to their questions.
On another forum ruled by a mister knowitall, his first answer is always a pointer to Rave and read that carefully. I want to help people when possible and give a relevant answer.
Where are the days of the LR UK forums (I made it to engineer) when Classics were hot, chopped or stretched and 6x6 wheel drive.
I don't see that happening with a P38.
Let's make this a place where RR is the centre of the universe.
Just found out that PMs give an e-mail notification to the recipient, which is great!
I hope there quickly appear 17 more topics in this section so my name moves to page two...☺
As my username suggests, I have my background in shipping. Started my professional life on the river Rhine as a deckhand, later first mate and captain. Later in service of the city of Amsterdam (portauthority, ferries). I worked with several engines of that time and still have a weak spot on them.
Last weekend I had the opportunity to join on a trip with the tugboat Elbe, formerly owned by Smit tugs in Rotterdam. The boat was first in service in 1958, later sold to the US Coastguard, later to Greenpeace and since a few years back home as active museumship.
With the help of many volunteers the ship has returned in it's original state including the original engines. It is driven by two 6cylinder Smit-M.A.N. engines of 1750Hp each. The two engines are connected to a shared transferbox, from there a single propellorshaft is driven.
The two engines can be engaged or disengaged via a pneumatic clutch, each engine can be started in forward or reverse. When manouvering there is one engine running forward and the other in reverse, whatever is needed the respective clutch is engaged. Once out on the trip both engines can be started forward to get the full 3500 Hp.
When not pulling the ship sails on one engine, for obvious reasons. I made a short vid of the running engine (partly with my phone) to give you an idea of these engines of the '50s. I thought I might share my weak spot.
Yesterday I had a blown indicator bulb, nothing shocking. The audible indicator sounded the fast click-click-click as we know from regular indicators when a bulb has blown and the message 'blown bulb' showed.
Looking outside which one it was I saw the remaining good bulbs were flashing the normal pulses per minute, as obligatory by law. Pretty sophisticated that central brain of ours!
I'm in the process of installing LPG in my 2000 Bosch 4.6, first time so taking the steps one at the time.
I got this from a breaker as part of another deal, it came out of a totalled 4.6 Gems and the system is from 2011.
First off, where to put the injectors. I can place them on top of the plenum, they just fit under the hood as shown in the pic.
The bracket I made is not an example of fine craftmanship but it will do, the left rail has to raise over the steppermotor hose.
This is as close I can get to the inletnozzles when placed outside the plenum and will result in long tubes of about 12" , I have read not recommendable.
Another option is to place them under the bananaplenum, I can make strips to mount them to the same bolts as the petrol fuelrail.
This should result in inlet tubes of 2" max, all equal of length and a neat fit.
Disadvantage is a higher temperature and not being able to check the injectors and plugs without dismantling.
What do you guys advice? (More questions when things progress)
My 2000 P38 has had 3 engines in my one year of ownership. The original when I bought it had a venthole in the block where connectingrod #5 had stepped out, the dipstick was turned around the camshaft. The replacement from a breaker was not the quality the guy promised it to be, it had a rattle I could not define and when I found another one for not too much money I bought it to make one good engine out of two.
The one that is in now is a 60D engine (Thor) and becomes too hot when outside temp is high with AC on, pressure of coolant is pretty high and loses some coolant.
The other engine in my garage (the one from the breaker) is a 46D block (also 4.6 for automatic) originally Gems but I had it converted to Thor (bracket for cranksensor rewelded) and swapped the other sensors, flywheel and camsprockets. The liners of cyl. 4 and 6 have lowered 1 or 2 tenth of a millimeter, so this is a matter of time that it will be trouble.
I found a shop close by that does tophatted liners, right now he is busy with a TVR block to convert and I think he does a good job.
If I give him the tophatted liners plus base gaskets he will mill my block, place them and skim the tops afterwards. Plus insert new camshaft bearings for around €400,-
The rest, main- and conrodbearings I can do myself including the obvious as new cam, tappets and so on. That gives me the feel of an engine I can trust.
But which engine will be converted? the 46D now lying around and gives me the time to do it in my own tempo, or the 60D that first has to be taken out and leaves me with no transport?
And where do I buy tops?
Any comment welcome, Tony.
Slowly working my way through the list of issues I had the AC system pressure tested yesterday.
A loud hiss from under the slampanel showed a leaking condenser, indeed from under the sponge.
Ordered a no-brand from Germany but I think it is Hella for €95.- incl. p+p.
Not a bad deal I think.
When I leave my 2000 4.6 for a couple of days there is a slight lowering of the bags in general, usually an inch or two.
Now and then I hear pft-pft which happens with engine running and not running, only when running it pumps itself up again and the 'pft-pft' starts again.
To take proof of the pudding I took out the timer relay and went on holiday for two weeks, today we came back and it stood on all corners exactly the way I left it.
This tells me that the bags and connections are not leaking but does that include the valveblock? Is the leveling only caused by not level parking or can O rings be leaking?
Is the heightsetting, no doubt they are not standard anymore, the cause?
Feel free to comment on this.
I've got a rumble from underneath, first I thought it could be U joints (cheapest cause) but after removal of the front propshaft the mechanic/owner of the garage who gives me shelter now and then told me there was nothing wrong with them, not a single bit of play.
Our son (a happy wrencher too) is very determent in a worn right front bearing, indeed the rumble frequency could very well be the revs of the wheel at respective speeds.
Lifted it off the floor but I cannot feel any play at all, not radial, not axial. Rotating the wheel is a bit difficult being a 4x4.
If I need a new bearing there is the hub assembly for £175 (Allmakes OEM) or the Timken bearing kit (bearing, circlip, seal and nut) for £77.
Island 4x4 states this is a non DIY job but I have access to a hydraulic press (the shelter guy) and was wondering if I could do it myself, £100 difference is worth thinking it over.
What do you think?
I need new rear brakediscs, that is the rears have the most grooves compared to front.
Looking at Islands4x4 there are some options, beforehand I was told in the past to avoid anything that comes in a blue box so I can rule them out.
Two options draw my attention:
The Delphi rear set for £54,16 including pads
or the Terrafirma set of 4 drilled and grooved for £94,99 but without pads
In case I want to renew the fronts at least now I have the same brand front and rear but still have to choose pads.
Q.: Do I need drilled and grooved discs? I want firm brakes that don't easily fade, especially when going downhill. Padwear is not such an issue, just renew when they need to.
If I can do with the Delphi rears I have some time to save for the fronts.
What are your opinions?
What is the best way to clean the black baked muck from pistonheads? I bought a can of carburettor cleaner but that's a spray and only works on light polluted surfaces.
I want to put the pistons upside down in a soupcan with some solvent to soak (the soup is out) and brush it off, what solvent can I take?
Here I have two coolantpumps, what is the difference?
I know, one has a hose attached to it but I mean the impeller. The steel one I found and recognised it as I bought it a year ago, the bronze came with another block and accidently I fitted it on my refurbished block. In my perception the steel impeller produces more flow and swapped it to my engine, together with a new thermostat.
Anyone recognises the bronze impeller as being an older version maybe?
Got this front diff from a breaker for very few €€. I know it is hard to judge from two piccys but what do you guys think, is it worth keeping it?
I found a couple of new interiorfilters in the shed and thought 'why not renew them', last time was one year ago and I have done less than 9000 kms since.
This is what came out, people let me believe I live in a clean air region. Not dramatically dirty but stilll.
"If it leaks it's in here" the subtitle says, although it's rainwater and not oil.
As mentioned in a previous post I'm searching for water ingress, we are having a lot of rain these days and I think I managed the heater-airinlet to be dry now.
Had a clogged roofdrain and blew it free with compressed air, now a new spot shows up in the right headlining corner.
I wonder where it comes from, can it be the roofrail? What are your experiences in this and is it easy to take off and check?
I need to take out the headlampunits. The two outer bolts come loose but not the two inner nuts mounted to the grille/bodypart. They are rusted and the boltpart going into the lampassembly turns too, I think they are slotted in some plasticpart inside the housing.
Can I simply grind off the nuts and replace the bolts not doing something stupid irreverseble? Why do I want the units out? The adjustment mechanism is corroded and won't adjust, I want to set them a bit lower.
As the title says I want to treat the box with an oilchange. I've got a new set with screen, O rings, alloy rings and rubberseal.
What worries me, I've read some posts about the suctionpipe breaking when swapping to the new screen, due to becoming brittle over time.
Is this the case so I better order a new suctionpipe beforehand?