Vac. line from cc to brake pedal switch? They tend to chafe where they enter the bulkhead or split at the switch itself.

Staples. They hold for a couple of months and at a distance of 10 cm it gives a chesterfield look.

no10chris wrote:

Won’t let me open the link,

Copy/paste Rcutler's link in a new tab and hit Googles suggestion.

Smiler wrote:

I try'd pressing the lock/unlock buttons with the key in the door lock straight after completing the EKA code and also in the ignition but to no avail.

Did you do the 'hold' procedure? I mean blade in doorlock, press and hold the lockbutton while turning to lock position and hold it there until the LED flashes quickly.
Same for unlock and it should be syncd.

Maybe I'm getting this all wrong but for me Chris wants another shortblock to replace his GEMS.
No problem what block you find, if it's a THOR you keep the (GEMS) flywheel + spacer, crank sensor + mountingplate (a little spotwelding), knocksensors, cam sprocket + sensor, maybe oilpan and frontcover.
I've done it the other way around, found a GEMS block to suit my THOR.
And yes it still hurts that I had to sell.
Tony.

Orangebean wrote:

Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.

Any standard 4 pin relay will talk to the ECU, only when engine is running.
Just don't know the required rating, 20, 30 or 40 amps.

Correct Gordon, 20Nm +90º +90º.
The first 20 is a bit tricky with such a large wrench, it's easy to rotate some 10 dgrees to much or too less. I have a small motorcycle wrench for the lower spectrum, it starts with 5Nm, maybe you could borrow one.
The final 90º I did not always give, mostly some 60 to 70º, scared as I am to break the bolt.
I'm not pretending that I can feel where the 'stretch' begins but after many heads in Classics and P38 I have a feeling 'enough is enough' and stop turning the bolt.
See to it the bolts are clean and have a drip of oil. And if you have one, use a 16mm impact socket, they stay better on the bolthead without wiggling off.
Reg. Tony

I feel sorry for you Mark, I've been there, done that. See my old posts.
Only way is start all over again armed with Sikaflex.
Start with taking off the top screen finisher, put a new layer around the screen and work your way down.
You will be successful in the end.

It is not the lobe ground under an angle, the lobe is not in the centre of the tappet hole.
If you remove all tappets and look through the casting holes you will see the camlobe out of centre.
Therefore the tappet will rotate a bit when the lobe passes.

Next time when you have a repair over a longer period of time and don't trust the battery, leave it unlocked and disconnect the battery. Lock the car manually by the sillbuttons and drivers doorlock.
Do the repair, unlock, lock the doors as you please, when you reconnect the battery see to it the doors are all unlocked. The BeCM will always revert to the state when the battery was disconnected.
Tony.

Or a petrol heater keeping the interior comfy...

Toggling with the pause button shows first you can see the reverse lights next to the licenceplate, then the round taillights (still pic), so to me it's a L322.

And it's your 2000th post!
Same from here Richard, all the best to everyone on here.Tony.

no10chris wrote:

I got an adverse RRTH response when I said my clock loses an hour every day, I just ignored it, don’t know why he seems to want to argue with everyone, I didn’t say the clocks were shit, but got accused of it, I can’t see anywhere on your thread where you did anything wrong !
On here you can voice your opinion any way you like, every car has good and bad points, people are entitled to know the good and bad points, it helps people thinking about buying one to look for things that might need repair soon.

Ps, welcome

I can't remember kissing his ass but he was willing sending me one:
enter link description here
but gets away with the fact I live here...

When fitting non standard washers see to it they have exact the right width, carrying over the full flange of the housing.
As OB says fit with clamps loose and when tightening turn the pipe back and forth a bit to Ensure proper seating.
Is the internal channel inside the banjo bolt free of debris/dirt?
Tony.

Looks like Morat can use one of his own products...
enter link description here

On the square drainplug fits a open end 10 mm wrench, I had fitted mine with teflon tape for-you-never-know.
The blue circled ones are crossbolts indeed, best it's not dripping from there or there is serious trouble.
Best bet is the core plug leaking, I remember you renewed them at your rebuild didn't you?

Not owning one won't say there are'nt laying around some bits and bobs.
If this is the right combo the clamp has stamped 50 on it, sounds reasonable because with the hose attached the OD is 48 mm.
And you need the cable pliers of course (Midlock). Very useful tool to reach those knuckle scratching places.

Drive it empty as far as you get, then run a hose to your outdoors propane BBQ and invite all neighbours...

I once fitted one on my Classic, all Identical to standard just stainless. It had a much deeper sound, not louder just a deep rumble like a classic boat. I loved it.