The saga continues . . .
Rangie has performed flawlessly since the last drama - no apparent power drain, Hankook battery back to rude health, firing up 'on the button', EAS compressor operating happily . . . until yesterday evening! Unlocked OK on the fob, ignition on with no usual signs of low voltage, twisted the key to fire her up and . . . nothing - and I mean nothing, not even the faintest of clicks . . . arghh!
This morning the investigation began - battery voltage absolutely fine, fuse 40 not blown, power at the starter relay, starter motor relay bench tested OK. Jumped the relay and . . . nothing! Need to get at the starter motor to complete checks but she's down at access level and parked such that getting a jack in under the axle is difficult to say the least. No problem, Nanocom will provide control to heave the beast up to high level so I can squeeze under. Nano connected, ignition on, select EAS and then hit High level and a message pops up stating that the engine needs to be running and doors closed . . . double arghh! But wait, Nano lies - hit the OK button under the message and up she goes - result!
Squeeze under (a door left open of course) and check continuity of solenoid wire - OK. Check voltage with relay jumped - full 12V available at the terminal. Check earthing of starter motor - OK. Get trusty mallet and give the solenoid a good beating and voila - starter spins happily!
The previous drama seems to be just complete coincidence with the starter motor and compressor going AWOL at the same time and now who really is the culprit for blowing fuse 40 previously? I have withdrawn my previous apology to the starter motor and given the solenoid more whacks than necessary to vent my frustration!
Rebuild or replace? Does anyone do rebuild kits for these starter motors? Are the (very) cheap replacement 'aftermarket' starter motors any good or should I go OEM?
LEDs last much longer? Supposed to but if the problems I've had with domestic LEDs is anything to go by then I wouldn't bank on it - seems that the requirement for much more connections within the LED array is a particularly weak point - plenty of U-Tube videos now available on how to 'fix' those expensive LED bulbs that, apparently, will outlive you! Indeed, fix is the wrong word as they just short circuit the errant LED out of the matrix.
Besides which, Rangie is 22 years old and I've only had to replace a couple of bulbs that have failed and not, as far as I can remember, a dash bulb! Compared to the rest of the things that need regularly replacing because they fail the bulbs are way, way down the list!
Having said that a LED set up for the luggage compartment is definitely a good idea.
I have LEDs fitted to front sidelights only with no problem as I use these as the increased light intensity in low light conditions not warranting headlights seems worthwhile to be seen. I do not have them fitted to any other lights but am led (pun intended) to believe that careful selection of LED lamps designed to work with the P38 operate without problem but cannot confirm this personally.
I have uprated halogens fitted to the head and driving lamps as the stock system is pretty damn good and the lower blue light and higher yellow light content mean they are much better during misty/foggy conditions. As for the rear lights, the stock system of halogens is more than adequate for rear, brake and turn signal and higher intensity would just irritate following drivers for no good reason.. However I am tempted to fit LEDs to the reversing lamps as the higher intensity/lumens would aid vision when reversing in the dark.
Never understood the fetish for LED dash lights - I have never, ever run my dash lights at ‘full bore’, indeed they are always run at less than half the available intensity. LED for side, head, brake, puddle and, particularly, reversing lights certainly. Even for dedicated map reading lamps, if fitted, and interior courtesy lamps perhaps (but not in the front as it kills night vision if switched on whilst on the move) but never dash lights.
Yes, expensive for one off as p&p is more than the cost of the switch. One can get them cheaper than RS but I couldn’t find anyone with stock and no real indication on when they would be available! I have sent my address via private message to take one off your hands as I can always cancel my order and I’m not overly confident of the April date - the October date for the 100mA version has already gone out to November!
On the original battery drain issue, the Hankook seems to have survived its drastic discharge OK and is holding charge with no appreciable drain now. As before I can only conclude that the discharge and compressor/fuse issue were just coincidental just to confuse me - what else can one expect with a P38!
DC1C-C4AA which is 6A rating and is a change over switch so will have an extra (useless) lead (DC3C is the 100mA rated switch). The C4 bit is for the leads exiting the housing on the opposite side to the actuator button (plenty of C3 switches available but the leads exit the housing the same side as the actuator button) and the AA denotes flying leads rather than solder contacts.
Prices vary but, with delivery, a switch from RS is £15.94
I have a same physical size, flying lead switch on order which is on back order and will not be delivered until April! It’s a higher rated switch that’ll do the job, if I wanted the same lower rated switch as the OEM one then it wouldn’t arrive until October!
Good job I’m not in a rush.
DC3C-Q5AA doesn't seem to exist now! However, there are a couple of other switches in the same Cherry/ZF range that will do the job but are out of stock everywhere - are there that many P38 bonnet latches going duff!!!
I don't think the TBH is strictly needed in the UK. I have experienced throttle body icing only once, in December 1979, in freezing fog, in a 'modified' car I had at the time with a mahoosive twin choke carbytooter on it! In fact it was the carb that iced up not the inlet manifold. In colder climes the TBH may well have a beneficial affect.
I have checked my records and I last replaced the TBH but with flexible gasket compound in early 2016, so 7 years ago and it's still watertight. Between 2001 and 2016 it had 3 - original and 2 replacements - so they lasted ~5 years on average before leaking. In fact probably less than 5 years as they had probably been progressively weeping/leaking for a long time before replacement.
The throttle body heater units need to be assembled with non hardening/flexible (elastic) gasket jointing compound - I use Loctite MR5922. The plates are thin so the constant heat/cooling results in too much movement/warping and they eventually leak without something more ‘pliable’ than a dry gasket. Thin coat on both faces and job’s a good un.
Ah, I see now that the switch is integrated with the latch. Just need to unbolt the latch, pull it clear and sort out the switch (he says confidently . . . ). Do you have a part no for a suitable microswitch?
I had the same problem some years ago and it turned out to be the windscreen seal - I also checked the roof rail gutters and sunroof drain tubes before ‘biting the bullet’ and getting the windscreen replaced. No trouble since.
I had the grill and slam panel off this afternoon and access to that damned bonnet switch and its connector is still extremely limited. However I could tell that the connector halves are securely mated but the connector is broken off its plastic locating clip. Switch must be open circuit (or wiring broken - but I doubt that) and I’ll leave well alone as it has been no bother so far.
Having had these bits of bodywork off I can report that the foam rubber ‘shoulder’ I glued to the infamous top corner of the air con condenser the last time it was replaced is continuing to do sterling work in preventing any abrasion and rubbing through of the condenser at this point.
Battery still holding up well!
Just been out to have a look - not easy to see without removing the front grill/slam panel but with mirror and torch I have located the switch which seems to be intact but the connector below it appears to have been dislodged from its mounting and possibly pulled apart slightly by interference with the bonnet release cable going to the left hand bonnet catch. Has probably been like this for the 18 years I've had the vehicle (or perhaps I dislodged it during one of my removal/refitments of the slam panel)?
Another little rectification job to add to the list!
That’s why I’ve never noticed it then. When it stops raining I’ll go and have a look for it and its associated wiring/connector.
I assume the bonnet switch is attached to one of the catches on the slam panel. I’ve had the slam panel off many times but never had to disconnect any electrical wires (or noticed any dangling about under it)! As for the EAS operating, I’ve never noticed but, then again haven’t had the bonnet open and the vehicle locked on many occasions (or driven it with the bonnet open)!
Yes, bonnet was closed with ammeter on top of bonnet. However, bonnet open or closed doesn't make any difference and there is no 'open bonnet' warning ever displayed and the car will lock quite happily and set the alarm with the bonnet open and no 'chirp' from the alarm sounder as it will for any of the doors. It's always been like this since I have had it!
When the interior lights go out the current draw drops from over 3A and then ‘wangs’ about at various values between 1.6A & 2A. If it was a flashing light or similar I would expect it to jump up and down consistently between two values but it doesn’t, it seems to be all over the place. When all this stops at the 2 minute mark the 570mA holds rock steady for the final minute or so before it finally drops to the 35mA. It’s not the alarm LED.
It’s strange to be sure and I can’t think what circuit would be ‘live’ for two minutes with a varying current. I assume the steady 570mA is the BeCM and the actual ‘wanging’ about is something varying between ~1A and ~1.4A on top but I can’t think of anything that would do this and then shut off after 2 mins. EAS perhaps? I think will have to just go through pulling each fuse in turn until I find which circuit is responsible but I only have a short time to pull/replace fuses one at a time so it may take some time to get through all of them! First though, I might try locking it after closing the door and see if that makes any difference to the current draws before the BeCM has its kip!
Final instalment, I hope.
Hankook holding charge and nice green glow in the peep hole so decided to swap it back in. However, still intrigued by the drain/no drain I decided to run the test by the book. Ammeter connected in series with the negative battery line. Open the drivers door and interior lights come on. Close door and current running at just over 3A until interior lights extinguish then current drops but jumps about between ~1.6A & ~2A and a number of readings in between changing every 1/2 second or so. Two minutes in the current drops to a steady 570mA. At just over 3 minutes the current drops to 35mA as the BeCM finally goes to sleep.
It seems I initially read the reduction to 570mA as the BeCM going to sleep at 2 minutes whereas it seems to finally go to sleep at over 3 minutes. I was confused as when I initially ran the test as I came back just after 2 mins, saw a steady 570mA for 30 seconds or so and thought I had a drain. On subsequent testing I came back after over 3 mins and saw the 35mA so thought the drain had miraculously cured itself! Only when continually watching it today did I see it progressively step down to the final sleep current draw.
No long term abnormal drain but does anyone know why a) the current jumps around before 2 minutes; b) what the steady 570mA draw is; and c) is this step down normal? Reading the formal Iq test it just states for the current to reduce to ~30mA in 2-3 minutes after interior lights extinguish. Well mine takes about 3mins 15 secs!
Mystery solved or the main bit anyway!
Went out earlier to check battery for drain - none apparent. Fired up on first twist of the key and ran happily. EAS very sluggish, so went under the bonnet to witness the EAS compressor struggling somewhat. It then cut out without the pressure switch operating and, on taking off the housing lid, was close to spontaneous combustion having run for only a minute or so! The fuse 40 blowing culprit at last - seems to be seized and not sure whether it just expired or the thermal cut out stopped the action! Took some time to get it out because it was so damn hot! Anyway, spare compressor in and everything back to normal . . . until the next P38 'surprise'!
Can't explain the excessive drain measured, don't think I had a door open or whatever the first time, but it's no longer present.
Battery going flat - I can only assume that because I used it for a few short journey early in December and used the 'Prog' button extensively to defrost/de-ice everything - I did use it a couple of times in succession which was a bit naughty - the alternator output was left funding the heated screens and blowers outrageous thirst plus the lights and not re-charging the battery after the start ups. Left for those few weeks during the coldest weather without much charging and the battery must have slowly, but inexorably, discharged.
Hankook is holding onto the charge so far. I will swap it back in after a few more days if the charge holds up and, fingers crossed, it is is none the worse for its excessive efforts in December.
I have also apologised to the starter motor for besmirching its reputation!