There's a work around for it suddenly stopping working under Win 10, see https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/rave-not-running-under-windows-10.346140/. I did that and the full version has worked perfectly ever since. I don't like the cut down one as it is from LRNAS so is US biased rather than being the proper one. The differences are minor but they are there.

I would think it depends on what version of RAVE you are running. If you are running the official UK version with the embedded Acrobat reader V4, you are probably stuck with Windoze (although I'm running it in compatibility mode under Win 10). If you are running the cut down version all you will need is a .pdf reader of some sort.

Repair kit is OK but you are still repairing 25+ year old speakers and technology has moved on a bit (plastic cones rather than paper, etc). On the red one I've recently removed the door amps and fitted 2 way crossovers in their place so the door speakers can be fed directly from the head unit. Front passenger speaker on that was seized too so it now has a real motley selection with HK speakers in front right and left rear with standard ones in the other two doors. Still sounds pretty good though and the original sub on that was in good nick for a change.

Wait for Nigelbb to reply. He got some and we fitted them into his. The sub amp was bolted to the back of the speaker and the new ones didn't have anywhere to bolt it to so I drilled a couple of holes in the side of the housing and used long M6 bolts with some nuts to act as spacers and bolted it there. So I know how to do it but not what speakers you need.....

Chopping the heads off with an angle grinder is a lot more fun.....

Lpgc wrote:

If a starter motor is drawing more amps than usual (to dim lights etc), where is that power going (and why) if it isn't converted to magnetic power / torque to spin the engine?

It's converted to heat. A dodgy starter has more resistance (due to the additional resistance between brushes and commutator) so it gets very hot.

I'd go for number 3, the starter is failing. It needs more current to turn the engine over, hence the dimming lights, so the increased current demand coupled with a battery that isn't at its best, is most likely to cause the problem. A few months ago I went to rescue one owner from a car park where his starter had failed completely. Fitted a new starter and he reckoned it spun the engine over far faster than the old one had done suggesting the old one had been getting slower over a long period.

I can put it in a Jiffy bag and send it by post.

Dry the interior of the car out with a dehumidifier.

And don't add Russian links to posts (now edited out) unless you want a permanent ban.

Or do you mean the cover that goes on the back to stop it filling with water? If you do, yes, I've got one.

Round cover? Do you mean the later fog lights with the clear centre rather than the ones with vertical stripes on earlier cars?

Not doing too bad. As we didn't really get a summer this year I haven't been inundated with people wanting air con so have had more time for other stuff. The Rioja Red '98 4.0SE that I picked up and Dina immediately claimed because it's pretty, has kept me busy and got a hectic week coming up but there'll be more on that when the time comes.

They are bolted to a couple of brackets attached to the chassis rails on Rivnuts, so just take them off. The holes are there in the chassis rails anyway so the rivnuts can be fitted if needed but you are unlikely to see them unless you are laying under the car. The red one I've recently bought had a (aftermarket) sidestep on one side and a couple of nasty looking lumps of metal sticking out on the other side, so I just removed the lot. I admit I had to resort to the angle grinder on most of the bolts into the rivnuts though.

P1171 Oxygen Sensor System Too Lean Fault Banks A & B

So that is also pointing towards lambda sensor(s). A lean mixture gives 0V (rich gives 1V), so a dead or disconnected sensor will also show as a lean mixture. What readings did it give on emissions at the MoT? On petrol it should fail the test with a dead or disconnected sensor.

I means what it says. It adapts the mixture to keep it within pre-set limits but if it exceeds those limits it brings up the fault. If it was there all the time I'd say the bank 1 lambda sensor is dead but as it appears to be intermittent, I suspect you are looking at a dodgy connection or a sticking fuel injector. If a sticking injector I would expect to also see a P030x code to identify which cylinder.

Pete12345 wrote:

In case it helps someone in future . . . . (not me cos I will not buy a diseasel.)

That's two of us then......

This one was really strange and I expected there to be an equivalent to the adaptive value reset in the menu items. But, I admit, I know naff all about diesels, I mean, for an engine to run it needs compression, fuel and a spark and as a diesel doesn't have a spark then theory says it should never run in the first place.

A replacement MAF was fitted and it still showed an intake air temperature reading of -38.88 degrees C. Checked the wiring between the MAF and ECU and no problems, full continuity on all wires. Out of desperation the owner got a replacement used ECU and the intake air temperature reading became sensible. That was a month ago and he has had no problems since.

I use one of the thin spanners but have a lump of 1" steel bar with a hole drilled in the end. Put that over one of the pulley bolt heads and belt the spanner with a hammer. It comes undone 9 times out of 10 (for the 10th leave it in place and struggle as you did).

But there's no adjustment on either of the Panhard rods? The Panhard rods cause the axles to move from side to side slightly as the car rises and falls on the suspension but they both move by the same amount relative to the chassis so always remain parallel with one another.

Yes it is, and I may have found all sorts of bodgery that has been done to this car but I can't see an axle being bent, particularly not that much!