Did you get it? A good price if you did.

Fully sorted with everything working as it should and you could be looking at a £2.5k car but as you say, its a how long is a piece of string question. It could go for more but equally it could go for less. £1,500 would be a fair price to pay for it I would think. Sorting out the niggles is a case of time rather than expense. I'd ignore the heated seats as they are a real pain to do and only succeed in making you think you've pee'd yourself when you put them on. A standard stereo keeps the originality but there's not a lot of cost but a lot of time to get it going unless you decide to spend £3-400 on a used DSP amp which may or may not work for a decent length of time. Book showing on the HEVAC could be any number of things but most likely a blend motor, fiddly to do but not expensive either. I know of a bloke that should be able to sort the LPG system though.....

There's enough of them being broken so spares are readily available if you need them. I might even have an Ash Grey seat base surround. I know I've got a driver's side one so should have the other too.

However, once you get it and start using it, you'll be putting the Elgrand up for sale.

Not one that I recognise. I quite like it, normally that colour would have the Lightstone Beige interior which I don't like, the Ash Grey looks much better in my view. Of the things mentioned in the ad, seat heaters rarely work, people will insist on sitting on the seats which breaks the elements, it has the book showing on the HEVAC meaning it has detected a fault somewhere, passenger seat base trim is missing and the lack of audio means it has the DSP amp and it has died. The sub signal simply passes through it so will still work. They are ridiculously expensive to replace and as virtually all of them fail so even buying secondhand you've no idea how long it will last. I've got all the bits to make a plug and play replacement but have never got around to putting it together as I've not had a car that was fitted with it to try it out.

Or you fit something aftermarket and get stuck into some serious soldering in the boot, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814

Plug and play, just don't turn the ignition on with it plugged in but not mounted.

Probably because FUEL GAUGE SENDER UNIT FAULT is too long to fit in the massage centre.... For the average owner, they wouldn't know what the gauge sender is, all he'd know is the fuel gauge isn't working correctly.

Not sure if relevant but the brake light switch takes power from the single connector on the back of the BeCM, the one that you access from the rear footwell. The HEVAC backlighting is on the same feed so if the HEVAC dims when you put the brakes on, that is suspect. There's one caveat to that. It is like that on a GEMS and I was recently told that a Thor BeCM will work in a GEMS but not the other way round. I thought they weren't interchangeable but this came from Les at Classic Rides North Wales who supplies the aftermarket keys.

I've seen FUEL GAUGE FAULT come up on the dash before, accompanied by the fuel gauge dropping to zero and the low fuel warning light coming on. However, that was due to wear on the track at a certain point that coincided with the amount of fuel I normally keep in the car. As the car runs on Propane, the petrol is purely a get you home option so the fuel gauge very rarely moved resulting in the wear. Replacing the fuel pump module cured it. About the only other thing I did was give the plug to it a squirt of contact cleaner before plugging it in.

Changing when pressing the brake pedal would suggest, as you rightly say, a bad ground connection. Fuel gauge and brake lights don't share a supply so it can't be a fuse but on a LHD car, both the ABS ECU and the fuel pump/sender assembly go to E0559 ground point. Your task is now to find out where E0559 is.....

Changed the engine temperature sensor. Drove to Stansted to pick up a mate last night and noticed my temperature gauge seemed to be showing fractionally higher than normal. Rather than sit at 12 o'clock, mine has always sat at about 1 minute past and it seemed like it was at 2 minutes past. When I stopped I plugged in the Nanocom to see what it was running at to be told 51C.....

Errm, that isn't right. Looked at the stored faults and saw an interesting selection, like coolant temperature too low, and coolant temperature too low for closed loop fuelling. Now as my car has a single point LPG system that is almost totally independent of the petrol system (the only thing it uses is the throttle position sensor), those faults won't cause a problem with running. But I'd rather do something as I do very occasionally run on petrol and it would be nice to be able to see what temperature it is running at.

On the GEMS there's two temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The one for the gauge is either an AMR5929 green top which is NLA or on earlier cars, one with a single wire connector and a second one for the ECU which has a black or brown top and feeds the ECU. A few years ago, someone on the dark side suggested that this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0280130026-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B001CO2VU0 was a replacement for the green top one so I bought one. Only to find that it isn't, the thread is wrong so it won't screw into the manifold, so I bunged it on the shelf in the garage and left it there.

This morning, after the car had stood overnight, I checked the coolant temperature according to Nano and it showed 11C, yet infra-red thermometer showed the engine to be at 18C. Found the Bosch one and plugged that in with it just dangling on the wires and the Nano showed 17C. Infra-red thermometer showed it to be 17C in my garage so that made sense. Swapped them and can confirm that the Bosch one is a direct swap for ETC8496, the one that drives the ECU. The thread is correct, the connector is correct and the readings it gives are correct (confirmed by looking at coolant temperature on the Nano and comparing it with what the infra-red thermometer was showing). Took the car for a run and it was showing the normal 85-89C running temperature and when at 89C, the gauge was reading what I saw last night.

RAVE says to lubricate with neat antifreeze.

As long as you've taken the coolant reservoir cap off so there's no pressure in the system, not a lot. I use one of the small takeaway plastic trays to catch what comes out.

H&H has the smooth finish one so you'd have to get it painted in the correct colour. I'm wondering what it would cost to ship from the UK if the steel backing was removed to reduce the weight. Plenty of decent smooth finish ones over here.

Confess, what have you done?

As my car is still blind in one eye and had agreed to take a mate to Stansted airport in the early hours of this morning, I decided I'd use the red 4.0SE instead. It hasn't done much more than the odd 60 mile round trip so checked it over and then thought it might be worth having a look at the HEVAC distribution motor. The book had been on for a while and the fault was showing as distribution blend motor stalled. I drove it a few days ago when the weather was hot and the AC was working well, the blowers were ramping up to full speed to try to cool the interior but all the air was coming out of the windscreen vent, none from the floor or face vents. So had the instrument cluster out to get to it. The usual cause of a stalled motor is stiff shafts and the distribution motor drives 3 instead of just one like the other two, so putting more load on the motor. A squirt of silicone oil is usually enough to get them moving freely but they need to be aligned.

As this is more pertinent to Max's thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/3864-no-blower-air-to-windscreen, I've put the finer points in there.....

The distribution motor drive 3 different flaps and they all need to be correctly synchronised. It is easily possible for two of them to jump a tooth or two due to the design of the main cog, almost certainly made the way it is to allow them to jump a tooth rather than break something or burn out the blend motor. The other one is on a lever and can also become disconnected.

Fortunately, they put alignment marks on the cogs and it is fairly easy to re-align them by turning the shaft with a large screwdriver while holding the teeth on the main cog away from it with a smaller screwdriver blade.

These pics show the alignment marks and how they should be.....

The other shaft, which I think is the one that opens and closes the airflow to the windscreen vent is driven off a lever and can come adrift so just flops about leaving the vent either open or closed depending on what position it is in. This picture shows it at either end of the travel.

My dashcam managed to catch it just before impact. 3 frames later (3/30th of a second) there's bits of glass flying out......

Today I found out what a pheasant at 70mph does when it hits your headlight. It could have been worse though, it completely avoided the grille and bonnet although it took a fair amount of screenwash to get the remains off the windscreen.....

It even took both bulbs out!!!

Many years ago I worked for BT and the working week dropped from 40 hours to 37.5. Everyone said, big deal, half an hour a day, so they came up with the idea of the 9 day fortnight. So I had every other Monday off and one year, with Easter and the other spring bank holidays, I only worked one Monday in 9 weeks.....

I'm now self employed but semi retired so I choose to work a maximum of 2 days a week. I did 3 days one week and was knackered!

Bank holiday season is over now, you've got to wait until August for the next one......

The little gas strut stops the glovebox falling right down when you open it. When it still had gas in it, it damped the glovebox movement but the gas will have fallen out years ago.

But the matrix O rings are on the other side? What were you doing in there?

Errm, I think so. It's been a while since I've been in there, the distribution blend motor is the one that normally needs attention before the others.

Yes you will, it's mirror image to the RHS but without the steering column and instruments to get in the way.