The distribution motor drive 3 different flaps and they all need to be correctly synchronised. It is easily possible for two of them to jump a tooth or two due to the design of the main cog, almost certainly made the way it is to allow them to jump a tooth rather than break something or burn out the blend motor. The other one is on a lever and can also become disconnected.
Fortunately, they put alignment marks on the cogs and it is fairly easy to re-align them by turning the shaft with a large screwdriver while holding the teeth on the main cog away from it with a smaller screwdriver blade.
These pics show the alignment marks and how they should be.....
The other shaft, which I think is the one that opens and closes the airflow to the windscreen vent is driven off a lever and can come adrift so just flops about leaving the vent either open or closed depending on what position it is in. This picture shows it at either end of the travel.
My dashcam managed to catch it just before impact. 3 frames later (3/30th of a second) there's bits of glass flying out......
Today I found out what a pheasant at 70mph does when it hits your headlight. It could have been worse though, it completely avoided the grille and bonnet although it took a fair amount of screenwash to get the remains off the windscreen.....
It even took both bulbs out!!!
Many years ago I worked for BT and the working week dropped from 40 hours to 37.5. Everyone said, big deal, half an hour a day, so they came up with the idea of the 9 day fortnight. So I had every other Monday off and one year, with Easter and the other spring bank holidays, I only worked one Monday in 9 weeks.....
I'm now self employed but semi retired so I choose to work a maximum of 2 days a week. I did 3 days one week and was knackered!
Bank holiday season is over now, you've got to wait until August for the next one......
The little gas strut stops the glovebox falling right down when you open it. When it still had gas in it, it damped the glovebox movement but the gas will have fallen out years ago.
But the matrix O rings are on the other side? What were you doing in there?
Errm, I think so. It's been a while since I've been in there, the distribution blend motor is the one that normally needs attention before the others.
Yes you will, it's mirror image to the RHS but without the steering column and instruments to get in the way.
It gets the ground through the outstation but that goes through a 4 way connector at the end of the rubber tube at the A post, so looking there might be a good idea. If it is high resistance it will be fine for locking and mirror but will fail as soon as you try to draw lots of current through it.
You're right, the sliding joints are on the ducts between bowers and matrix and matrix to end vents. You won't see anything behind the instrument cluster as your car is LHD and the linkage is on the RHS of the heater matrix. The distribution motor drives a large quadrant but there is also a lever that goes forward towards the bulkhead and I think it is that one that deals with the flaps to the windscreen vents. It runs in a slot on the back of the quadrant but can come out if it gets stiff. Or the distribution motor isn't doing anything and that is why you have the book showing. With the glovebox out (and maybe also the passenger airbag), you'll be able to operate the buttons to change where the air is supposed to go and see if the top blend motor moves.
Press the Prog button and see if it is the same, if it is then it will be either the distribution blend motor (top one on the right hand side), or the linkage has jumped a tooth. Distribution motor drives 3 levers and they need to be set correctly. Top ducts have a couple of sliding joins in them and they can come apart so the air just blows around behind the dash rather than out of the vents. Driver's side can be accessed by taking the instrument cluster out (do NOT turn the ignition on with the cluster unplugged), passenger side needs the glovebox out.
If he's installed a new battery, the fob will have lost sync which is why it doesn't work. If he tried to open the door within 30 minutes of connecting the battery, it will have been showing keycode lockout so won't do anything or accept the EKA
Or get a replacement lock barrel and swap the wafers over so it matches the key.
Chrisp38 wrote:
My query..
If I disable the compressor, let all the air out of the springs then it would be easy for us to lift the car up and down as necessary to fit the blocks, read the heights and store them without the engine running and us having to shout over the engine noise(diesel). What I'm not sure of is would the nano still see the heights and store them etc with just the ign on position 2 ?
In a word, yes. As long as the ignition is on (and the battery is good), that is the easiest way of doing it.. The ECU won't try to take control and change the heights and you won't be gassing yourself with exhaust fumes while under the car either. Jack it up, fit the High blocks, lower it down onto the blocks, read and write the heights, lift it up, remove High blocks and fit Standard blocks and so on.
Just be aware that if the battery starts to go flat the BeCM shuts down different systems one at a time in order of importance. I was doing the calibration on one car using just this method and partway through it started refusing to accept the new settings and then came up with a sensor out of range error. It was only when I noticed that the HEVAC had turned off, that we realised what the problem was. We had to put a battery charger on it, leave it to bring the battery voltage up to something sensible and clear the error before we could carry on.
Not sure if there is anyone on here in Ontario, but what is the exact probllem and it may be possible to walk you through what you need to do.
Just edited the link as the first ebay one wanted almost as much in postage as the cost of the bit.....
Take the cover and pollen filter out and you can see the blower through the hole. Try using the twiddly knob on the HEVAC to speed it up and make sure it does. You can also use the Nano to look at the feedback from the blower as you turn the speed up.
The speed controller is a generic Valeo part used on a number of different cars like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263977084986
You should have mentioned it on Sunday, I've got 3 spare blower motors in the garage......
The Grom BT-3 only connects to the head unit. The steering wheel controls only connect to the head unit too, so the BT-3 will work whether you have the steering wheel controls or not.
If you've got parts from a 98 with High Line, then you will have the door amps and speaker loom from inside the doors. Job done......
If it runs for longer than you are holding the key in the start position, I'd be suspecting the crank position sensor or fuel pump. You can check teh fuel pump easily enough, there is a Shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail, left hand side, at the back by the bulkhead. The fuel pump will run while the starter is turning but should continue to run once the engine starts. You could have a problem where it runs while cranking but doesn't continue once the engine has started.