That's the external temperature sensor, not the aspirator. Aspirator is JTF000030 which is available but a little more expensive https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/jtf000030-sensor-in-car-temperature.html?code=60907
I have a feeling I have a spare one, I'll have a look later and see if I can find it.
Why are you buying stuff from Aus when there are numerous breakers in the UK (and probably a few in ROI too)? Whether it has had only tarmac use or has spent its entire life off road won't make a blind bit of difference to ABS sensors.
That is the height sensor so it reports the height of a corner to the ECU so it knows whether to inflate or deflate the air spring to keep the height or that corner correct. If it is broken or has come adrift, the ECU won't know what height the corner is at and when it puts more air into the spring it won't see the height change so will result in an EAS fault.
A corner going down has nothing to do with the ABS, that is, as you suggest, a problem with the air spring.
Unlikely to be a CV joint but could be either of the other two. The reluctor ring has one tooth fractionally higher than the others so the sensor is tapped in as far as it will go and after one rotation is pushed out so the air gap is correct. It may be that the sensor coil is breaking down every so often (it contains a coil of thousands of turns of extremely fine copper wire) which triggers the fault or it could be a worn wheel bearing that isn't running true so pushing the sensor out too far.
Kbs wrote:
When using post image site, I must copy the "direct link". There are about six options, it's the direct link that I've used here.
Yes, use the direct link option which should give you a link with .jpg at the end. Without that the forum software doesn't recognise it as a picture.
Just edited your post so the pictures show. No matter what hosting you use, as long as the file ends in .jpg, it will work.
In your case, the top picture is https://i.postimg.cc/25dMvmDM/20240401-200138.jpg, while the bottom one is https://i.postimg.cc/JzFZqB1B/20240401-195939.jpg
When typing your reply, put the cursor where you want the picture, click on the box with a picture in it (5th one along), paste the URL for the image into the pop up box that appears and click OK. That then puts the picture into the post. If you click on Preview, you can see what it will look like.
Amongst the assorted bits I rescued from Marty's workshop yesterday before they get consigned to a skip, was a rear wiper motor. Had no use for one at the time but having stuff is always useful so it got bunged in my trailer. Looks like that will find a home soon too.
Sounds like, if you can live with it until then, an aspirator clean is on the cards when you come to collect your DSP amp......
There's a good reason for recommending Low range when shunting a caravan or trailer around. All trailers, whether ones you live in or ones that you put things in or on, over 750kgs, will have overrun brakes so as soon as you try to reverse a trailer, the brakes will come on meaning you are pushing it against the brakes. Reversing a trailer uphill on mud usually means the trailer wheels are locked by the brakes so you just do a bit of reverse ploughing, much easier in Low range. If you are doing a lot of shunting around, using High range means the torque convert will always be slipping so you run the risk of overheating the transmission fluid too.
At Marty's workshop yesterday, Jacckk turned up with a very nice Brian James covered trailer to collect the non-running 2000 Vogue that Marty was disposing of. To get it into a suitable location to line it up to winch it into the trailer, it had to be towed up a pretty steep concrete slope. Towing strop on the back of the 2000 and the front of mine and in low range reverse I just had to give it a touch of throttle to get it moving and after that I could just let the engine idle with Marty walking alongside to steer it and we got it exactly where we wanted it.
The reverse position for the mirrors needs setting as it will have lost the setting when the battery was disconnected. Procedure is in the owners handbook but it is fairly simple.
Ignition switch in position 1 or 2 but engine NOT running.
Gear lever in Reverse
Adjust the mirror to the downward setting you want
Press the MEMORY STORE button along with button 1 or 2 depending on what setting you have the seat set for you for 2 seconds. Dash will say Mirror dip stored.
If it is playing up and you want to turn the feature off, it's the same process as above except you only press Memory Store without pressing one of the memory buttons for 2 seconds and the dash will say Mirror dip off.
If the aspirator thinks the inside of the car is 25 degrees and you have got the HEVAC set to a lower temperature than that, it will try to cool the car down to get it to the target temperature. A simple test is to give the aspirator (located behind the little grille below the clock) a squirt with brake cleaner which will cool it down rapidly (Nanocom should show that too), so the heater should ramp up the temperature from the vents very quickly.
What I want to know is when are they going to start charging duty on EV owners for charging at home? Petrol, diesel and LPG sold at filling stations has Road Fuel Duty (RFD) and VAT at 20% on the price. If you live in a rural area and have an LPG bulk tank for heating and cooking and have a tank with a bottom take off for liquid so you can fill your car from it too, the tank supplier has to inform HMRC. You then have to log how much LPG you take out for your car and notify HMRC who then charge you the RFD and, as domestic fuel only has VAT at 5% applied to it, the extra 15% VAT. However, if you have an EV and charge it at home, you aren't paying RFD and are benefiting from the discounted, domestic, VAT rate. Surely they should also log how much they use to charge their car and be billed for the RFD and extra VAT?
Nah, when you lay underneath and push the bumper forwards, it lands on your stomach.....
Section 76 - Chassis and Body - Repair, page 10 onwards. There's no bolts that are obscured by the radiator, the bolts are in from underneath.
OK, I think, unless we hear otherwise, aim for Wednesday.
OK, I've got stuff to finish off tomorrow (Tuesday) so can't devote the whole day to workshop clearing. That leaves Wednesday and Thursday this week. Any others going to be there on either day in case there's heavier stuff to be done? Which day suits you better Marty?
Yes, you need to do the test moving but the Nanocom will disconnect as soon as you hit 5mph (a 'feature' of the Wabco system, not the Nanocom) so you need to trickle along slowly. Any fault with the ABS will also cause a Traction Control fault as the TC uses information from the ABS to detect if a wheel is spinning or not.
Can't help with your gearbox fan as only diesels have it, a V8 has a much larger cooler so doesn't need a fan. It doesn't seem to appear in the ETM although there is a description of how it works.
Are those Nanocom wheel sensor readings while standing still? What you need to do is start looking at them and then very slowly start driving forwards. All should start to read at the same time and will rise at a steady rate. Any that are sluggish in starting or read different to the others, is the faulty one.
Dig a second one out for me too. Mine has been telling me that Fuse 20 is blown for years now. I understand there's resistor that goes open circuit and have been meaning to replace it for ever but having a replacement to put in in case it doesn't work (or I make it worse) would be handy.