Last thing first, it's a well known bug with the Nanocom that it often reports the battery voltage at 16V when it isn't, so that can be ignored.
Pre-cat sensors should flip flop between 0V and 5V, 0V showing rich, 5V showing lean, so they are both suggesting a rich mixture.
Fuel temperature of -255 suggests the sensor is open circuit. To check if it is a sensor or wiring problem, with a 1kOhm resistor in place of the sensor, you should see a temperature of around 40 degrees C being reported. The fault code appears when the fuel temperature and the coolant temperature are so far apart that one or other is obviously incorrect. However, the main function of the sensor is to richen the mixture on a hot start to compensate for the fuel vaporising in the rail and shouldn't have any affect if it thinks the fuel is really cold.
However, one thing you haven't checked and could well point towards the cause of the problem, is the fuel pressure. There is a Schrader valve on the RH side of the fuel rail (above cylinders 4 and 6) so you can check it there, it should be 34-37 psi (use a tyre pressure gauge if you have nothing else, just make sure you blow the fuel out of it before checking your tyre pressures). The GEMS has a fuel pressure regulator on the rear of the fuel rail (hiding under the throttle linkage) with a reference pipe to the intake manifold. Two possibilities come to mind, one is that the fuel return pipe is blocked so excess fuel can't be returned to the fuel tank which would show up as high fuel pressure. The other is that the diaphragm in the pressure regulator is split so fuel in being injected into the intake manifold. In that case the pressure will be correct but the engine will be running rich, particularly at idle. Disconnect the pipe that goes from the pressure regulator to the intake and start the engine. If fuel comes out of the pipe, then that is your problem.
mad-as is correct. Assuming you are talking about the outer bearings, as in the wheel bearings in the hub, they are sealed units and there is an oil seal on the halfshaft to keep the axle oil in the axle and away from the outer bearings. When taking the hubs and halfshafts out to change the diff, it is a good idea to replace those axle seals anyway.
The only difference between front and rear is the fronts have a CV joint and the rears don't, just a rigid half shaft. That's also why the old fashioned way of checking for a wheel bearing failure by trying to wobble the wheel is pointless unless you can wobble it enough the bend the halfshaft!
A good hint although a P38 is very rare in a breakers yard here, they are all bought by the specialist breakers to be stripped and the parts sold off on eBay.... I was wondering if simply giving the Nanocom a 12V supply through its power socket would be enough, but thinking about it, I suspect the BeCM would need some power if it was to be interrogated.
I work on the principle that it will be knackered and rebuild anyway. If, when I test it, it isn't knackered, that's a bonus. I have 4 pressure gauges on short lengths of pipe that I can put in the 4 corner outputs, a short length of 8mm pipe to link the in and out that would go to the dryer and then put pressure in the port that would come from the reservoir. That way I can pressurise a valve block, open the inlet valve and the 4 corners in turn by putting 12V onto the relevant pins in the connector (that way it also tests the driver pack) and put pressure into each gauge. Then leave it and see how long it takes for them to drop. No drop means it is good, any drops in pressure means it needs a rebuild.
I drove to south London in mine (and paid the bloody ULEZ) to collect a Toyota Aygo my step daughter had bought. Dina drove mine back and reported that it wobbled about a bit, not half as much a a little lightweight Aygo did though.....
Dave, I'm well aware it is about raising an income but it is where they get their information from that intrigues me. Anything that is Euro 4 onwards will have the NOx figures shown on the V5(C), the DVLA data and the VCA website but as a P38 is Euro 2 it isn't shown. So, if Philip has said, it is based on NOx levels, where from or who have produced the figures?
I know the TfL database is often wrong. A former neighbour of mine bought one of the last Rover 75 Estates, brand new, in 2005 but had a personal plate put on it from new. In that case, DVLA issue it with a standard age related plate and transfer the personal plate onto it prior to registration so there is a previous plate to put on it when/if the personal plate is taken off. Putting that personal plate into the TfL checker and it correctly identified the car as a 2005, Rover 75, CDTi, fuel type diesel, Euro 2 but then said it was compliant which it clearly isn't. Last year the personal plate was taken off because the car was going to be sold and it was allocated the original age related plate. Put that into the TfL checker and it said it was a 2005, Rover 75, CDTi, fuel type diesel, Euro 2 so non-compliant. Make sense of that Mr Khan......
I tried them when I got the red one with a Clarion with no display but not working so I assumed it needed the code (even though it wasn't asking for one due to a dead display). The link I had for Clarion sent me to a different company so I rang them to see if they were Clarion or the Clarion employees but now under a different name. They weren't but did say they were able repair the Clarion units. The Clarion link now goes to a different website but I believe the company I spoke to were this lot, http://oem-services.co.uk/oe-repairs.
Where did you find that info from? The VCA vehicle checker (https://carfueldata.vehicle-certification-agency.gov.uk/search-new-or-used-cars.aspx) doesn't show NOx figures for either. If a 4.0 litre is that much below the threshold I would have thought a 4.6 might be slightly higher but not by a huge amount.
If it is NOx they are concerned about, a car running on LPG should be compliant too.....
If you have disabled Immobiliser, all that does is disable passive immobilisation so it doesn't set the immobiliser if you unlock the car but don't start it within 30 seconds. It will still set the immobiliser when you lock the car. If you have disabled EKA, that means you can't enter it when needed. I tried it on one of mine recently to see what affect disabling EKA had and if I locked with the fob and unlocked with the key it wouldn't accept the EKA either from the key or the Nanocom. Enabling EKA in the BeCM and it would accept it from both. The EKA disabled setting should only be disabled on a car that doesn't have an EKA programmed.
So the ideal setting is Immobiliser Disabled and EKA Enabled.
TfL's data is incorrect. According to them, a post 2000 4.0 litre P38 is ULEZ compliant but a 4.6 isn't. However, the CO2 figures for them are near identical (385 and 398 g/km) and they are both Euro 2 emissions class so neither should be compliant as a petrol car needs to be Euro 4 or higher. For the time being it is a loophole due to their data being wrong but for how long it will remain that way is anyone's guess.
What year James? The early style use a different bulb to the later ones with the clear centre, so the holder is likely to be different.
I'd be more inclined to suspect iffy connections at the bulb holders on the back of the HEVAC. There's two bulbs on the bottom but I think (without pulling one apart) that one lights a light pipe for the buttons along the bottom while the other slights the ones on the side (heated screen. rear window buttons). Taking the bulbs out, checking them and cleaning the contacts on the board where they go in, is a good idea whenever the HEVAC is out.
Not sure what you are after. The button illumination is fed from the sidelight circuit on pin 6 of C244 (Red/White wire).
Is it hand carved out of a solid gold ingot? It should be at that price. Is it even the correct badge though? I don't recall ever seeing anything like that.
The early AMR3375 (94 to 96MY) superseded to AMR6405 which was fitted to 97MY cars and they are interchangeable. I'm not sure if the AMR6476 as fitted to 98MY cars are compatible with an earlier car but the fact that the 97 version doesn't supersede to the 98 version would suggest there are differences and they are not a straight swap.
If anyone has never seen the inside of a fusebox, have a look here https://web.archive.org/web/20180516002340/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrical/fusebox.html#dismant. There are two circuit boards that are connected together with wide copper strips so they open up like a book. Then there are the two rows of pins down either side that also connect the two boards together.
There are 3 part numbers for the GEMS fusebox. The original one (AMR3375) was prone to failure as some of the copper tracks on the board could overheat and eventually burn through. It was replaced with the second attempt (AMR6405) which was redesigned so the tracks that were prone to overheating were made wider and this one was fitted to '97MY cars. For the '98 model year (AMR6476), the design doesn't appear to have changed from the previous version but the copper tracks are thicker so increasing the current handling capacity. Whether a '98MY one can be fitted to an earlier car I don't know, I'd need one of each apart to compare the two.
For the Thor (YQE103410), they carried on with the thicker copper tracks so these are less prone to failure.
The diesel also had similar changes. An early one (AMR3376) which supersedes to AMR6406 (which was fitted to '97MY cars as standard) and AMR6477 fitted to '98MY cars. From '99MY onwards they got YQE103420, but for some reason they got another change very late in production so from VIN YA438098 they got yet another one, YQE000010. That isn't shown as a superseded part so no idea if that one will fit an earlier car (well, any of them will fit but whether they will work as intended is anyone's guess).
In all cases overheating relays cause the fusebox to fail as it overheats the connections in the fusebox so if any of them are starting to show brown marks, replace them with good quality 40A ones.
Not if it is still going to fit in the box. The circuit boards are the exact size to fit inside the housing so the connections need to be where they are.
Not on mine as I've run out of things to do with them now I've got the red one running properly on petrol as well as gas, but on one I was asked to look at a couple of months ago.
The problem was a permanent SRS light but although the Nanocom would connect to all the other systems, it wouldn't connect to the SRS ECU. Checked the obvious things like the connector behind the RH kick panel and could find nothing wrong there so ended up taking the centre console out to get to the SRS controller. Checking there showed only 3.3V at the supply line. Traced it back to the fusebox and still only 3.3V coming out of that, in fact, there was only 3.3V at the SRS fuse. So diagnosed a failed fusebox. Grabbed another from a local breaker, fitted that, the SRS light went out and everything was working as it should.
Quite why there should only be 3.3V on one fuse was a bit of a mystery so I pulled it apart a couple of days ago. It showed signs of burning around the output pin of Relay 9 but everything else looked OK from the outside. Getting it apart and it was obvious that someone had been in there before and had cut the pins between the two boards to open it up. Unfortunately, when they'd put it back together, rather than replace the pins, they had just soldered the cut ends together.....
When I did my apprenticeship (many years ago), I was taught that solder is to give electrical conductivity and not mechanical strength but whoever had done it obviously missed that part. You can see from the pic above that some of the pins just had blobs of solder on the two halves but the solder hadn't flowed properly between them (there's at least 2 that are obvious if you look). When I came to cutting the pins again, at least a third of them just came apart. I'm actually surprised that it was only the SRS that wasn't working looking at the state of it. Some of the board connections had been re-soldered but it looked like they had been done with plumbers solder or a soldering iron that wasn't up to the job.
So, I ground down the solder and punched the old pins through the board to remove them so I ended up with nice clean pcb tracks to solder to.
Once that had been done, I went round any iffy looking solder joints and did them again and cleaned up some of the pins and relay/fuse contacts that appeared to have been damaged by water getting into it at some point. Folded the two boards back into place and clamped them so they were parallel and fitted new copper 1.25mm straps between the boards and carefully soldered them.
Checked to make sure there were no solder bridges between pins and put it all back together.
So now I have a fully refurbished fusebox for a later (99 onwards) V8 P38 (part number YQE103410, the one that is no longer available) which I did consider putting on eBay but decided that I may as well keep it until someone needs it.
I've also get one that has been similarly fettled for a GEMS but that is going in my stock of spares as I have 2 GEMS of my own and I may need it myself one day.
Sorry to hear about Dave3d, he was active on here and on RR.net too.
Do you mean Keycode Lockout or Engine Immobilised? Keycode Lockout appears when the battery is first connected and goes out after 30 minutes. During that period you can't do anything. If it is immobilised, then you should be able to enter the EKA with Nanocom and hit the Disarm button.
It isn't just the tank though, it's a full system complete with pump and filling hose. Smiths pump are ridiculously expensive on their own.