Ugh, Champions, how to make an engine misfire when there's nothing at all wrong with it..... if GEMS, NGK BPR6ES, if Thor NGK PFR6N-11.

There's probably some bonkers regulations in the US that mean diesels are classed as trucks so don't suffer the same restrictions as petrol. A bit like how a pickup was a truck so was exempt from the emissions regulations so you got pickups producing far more power than sports cars.

My mate who does mobile AC recharging enquired about the process for recharging the AC on an EV as the system not only cools and heats the car but it also cools the batteries. Seems he's got to do a 4 day training course before he's allowed to touch one. 48V at an almost unlimited amount of Amps can do you a lot of damage.....

I always get OE, https://www.lrdirect.com/LVC100260-Gasket-Rocker-Cover-New-Rr-V8/?keep_https=yes, as they seem to be more 'rubbery' and less like vinyl like the cheap ones.

What's the coolant level like? If it's low then you may have less flow so taking longer for the reducer to get up to temperature.

I've heard of this before. With standard liners the head gasket fire ring is on the top of the block so the pressure on the gasket is uniform over the full surface. With top hats the fire ring is sitting on the top of the liners so if the liner is even very slightly proud of the block surface, there'll be less pressure on the rest of the gasket. The difference in thermal expansion between the steel liner and the alloy block may also have an affect. I would suspect the coolant is getting out of one on the passages at the front and rear of the head, finding it's way between the gasket and block face until it finds somewhere it can escape to the outside world.

Whether or not it needs it I don't know but I always put a smear of blue hylomar on both sides of the gasket around the waterways, can't do any harm and may stop what has happened with you. What sort of mileage has it done since the rebuild? I suspect all it needs is the head(s) whipping off and new gaskets.

In that case, ignore everything I said about door amps, you don't have any. While it is possible to fit an aftermarket head unit to a car with the DSP system, it isn't straightforward at all. I've got all the bits and a dead DSP amp to make a 50W per channel plug in replacement for the DSP unit using a pair of Class D stereo power amps with crossovers but haven't got round to putting all the bits together yet. In theory, if it all works as expected, it will be a plug in replacement and will just need the rear left and right channels picking up at the Alpine head unit and running to the back where the amp will live.

Maybe the filter does help with desense, or at least stops the datastream from being corrupted. Had to call round at my daughter's last night so decided to give the Ascot a bit of a run (and it had more LPG in it than mine). Mine, with the filter, can be locked and unlocked there but with reduced range, the Ascot, without the filter and probably with a Gen 1 receiver, wouldn't lock on the fob even with it held against the aerial on the back window.

Having spent a lot of time working on the problem when it first appeared, I'd say the worst affected marque was, and still is, BMW. Even the current Bini is affected. Land Rovers from 2010 until 2018 suffer but in a different way where they just won't acknowledge the key if you park in the wrong place and the fix isn't cheap.

I would assume the capacity of the compressor will be around the same and unless you have increased the hose lengths, and hence the capacity, significantly, then the charge will be the same. If you've increased the hose lengths by quite a bit, you can work out the additional capacity in the hose and add that to the charge.

But you did order it on a Friday, so Monday will be next (working) day.

Didn't DavidAll remove his? He removed everything else.....

The Alpine has catches at the top, about an inch in from each side. A couple of feeler gauges usually works well.

You haven't got the DSP option have you? If you have it then gets very complicated.

The original stereo outputs a low level signal which is then amplified by the door amps but if using an aftermarket head unit with standard DIN sockets, that will output a higher level to drive speakers directly so the door amps aren't required. Or, you can use that interface which attenuates the signal from the head unit and matches the impedance so it can drive the amps. Simply bypassing them means that the head unit is supplying speaker level outputs at the correct impedance without the need to modify the signal to feed the amps. The advantage with the door amps is that they incorporate crossovers so each channel comes into the amp at full frequency range but the output of the amp is split between low frequencies and mid/high. I didn't bother originally and with the JBL speakers it sounded fine. In fact a mate who spent most of his working life as a sound engineer thought it sounded great. Then I added a couple of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264933727526 and he agreed it sounded even better.

Two of us lifted a short block into the boot of a car and I would estimate that to be around 70kg. That transfer case alone weighs 75kg and the gearbox is heavier than that. I would think for the whole lot you are going to looking at over 350kg at the very least.

It looks like the nut is correct and the stud looks like it might be except https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/252513-stud.html?code=L3G03015 says it is for earlier engines. This site shows it to be 5/16 UNC x 1" 3/8". But, one of the differences between the earlier engines and the Thor is that most of the threads changed from Imperial to Metric, so the exhaust manifold bolts on a GEMS, and anything earlier, are 5/16 UNC but on a Thor they are M8.

The photos are all still here on this thread. If you mean the bit of metal you remove from the door latch (to make getting it in and out easier) it's the bit that sticks out and performs no useful function whatsoever.

Not only of the receiver in the P38, desense can, and will, affect any radio receiver. The filter stops received random transmissions from being passed through the receiver to the BeCM, it doesn't affect what the receiver receives, just what it does which anything it does receive.

I'm not a great fan of the multimedia units as no matter how well they are done I think they look out of place in a P38 (and some installs just don't fit properly and look like a bodge). You also lose the very useful oddments bin. The other thing is that sooner or later they will become out of date. You only have to look at the systems fitted in some production cars that are no longer upgradable. I've got an old Android tablet that won't run a lot of modern apps as the version of Android it is running is too old so it may be a while yet but sooner or later it'll be out of date. If you want to retain the original stereo, the Pure Highway range would be the way to go. If you don't mind changing the head unit, then something like this https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT950DAB/. I've got a previous version giving me DAB and FM/AM radio, CD, USB, line in and handsfree phone with an external mic that I've got at the top of the A pillar trim. The thing I like about it is that the display colour is adjustable so I can set it to the same shade of green as the HEVAC so it doesn't look out of place. You'll also need a couple of these blanks to fill in the space at the sides

If you've got the system with door amps you can bypass them (and add crossovers instead if you want the best quality sound) and use the speaker level outputs on the headunit. Your loudspeakers will almost certainly be well past their best these days and a straight swap which improves the sound quality no end, is the JBL Stage 600CE speakers which can easily be fitted in place of the original ones. For satnav I use a Garmin stuck on the windscreen in the centre so easy to glance down to look at it and the model I've got comes with lifetime map updates and can be linked to a remote wireless reversing camera which I've mounted above the towbar between the two electrical sockets. I use it mainly so I can hitch a trailer up on my own but it is also useful for stopping me putting a neat 50mm diameter hole in someone else's number plate when reversing into a supermarket car park space.

Just realised, the filter doesn't stop desense as I've got one on my car (admittedly a prototype still)...... Agreed, it will stop anything that the receiver will respond to though.

Sloth wrote:

Sounds like another issue our filters would solve :) when more components turn up to build a new batch at least...

No, I don't think it would as the receiver isn't responding to the signals, they are just blocking it from receiving anything on the correct frequency.

The receiver needs to be receiving a signal on the correct frequency to keep the BeCM awake so it won't if it is simply being desensed as it isn't receiving anything. The Gen 3 receiver or the Marty/Sloth filter will prevent it being kept awake if the signal is on the correct frequency.