Yes, 150kg maximum on the hitch, around 100 will be better, 3,500kgs maximum towed weight. Depending on what you are using, a trailer rated for 2,800 kgs or more MAM will weigh around 800-900 kgs empty, so you'll be looking at about 2,400 kgs overall. Should be no problem at all for the Duchess.
Morat wrote:
Benefit in kind for company car drivers.
BIK works on a sliding scale. EVs attract 0%. 3% for new PHEV, up through the various decreasingly "green" options to 21% for anything that produces 100g of CO2/mile or more.
So, if the company "gives" you an M3 you'll pay 21% of the purchase price in tax. If they give you a Tesla you'll have nothing more to pay.
So that encourages company car drivers, but what incentive is there for private owners?
I can't see how they will faze out diesel in few years what about the HGV side of things how will they come over that obstacle
At least two HGV manufacturers are now producing LPG powered trucks and there's also a few running on CNG and Hydrogen......
There never was an option to have a mix of 7 and 13 pin connectors. You had a dual socket system, with two 7 pin sockets (see https://www.pfjones.co.uk/advice-centre/tow-bar-advice/tow-bar-electrics.html) which was replaced with the 13 pin single socket that used a single socket to give the same connections as the two 7 pin ones. The connections for the single 7 pin socket are behind the RH rear light while the additional connections needed for the second 7 pin socket (permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing lights and ground) are on a plug behind the LH rear light.
That's what freezers are for..... There's still one in our freezer as my step daughter has been stuck in Holland since September and we're saving that for her Christmas when she finally makes it home.
From the bottom up, screen may well be the screen itself so cant really be repaired without a new screen although you could have checked that power was getting to it when you had the plenum off to do your water leak. At least that way you would know if it was the screen elements or something before it gets that far. Heated seats are a pita to repair but you can check under the seat to see which element is broken and if there is power there. Cruise is an easy one and can be done with the instrument cluster out. All it will need is a length of 4mm ID vacuum tube to replace the one from the brake pedal valve switch to the Tee by the actuator (and the two short lengths from the Tee). HEVAC probably needs a Marty zebra strip (from your comment on hieroglyphics in your last post). Even my mate Danny was able to do that job on the Vogue we have just returned to its former glory so it can't be that difficult as he's as ham-fisted as they come.
Radio is likely to be the DSP amp in the boot. You could be a guinea pig for me on that one. I've fitted one of Marty's replacements that involved chopping the original plug off and an awful lot of soldering in the boot so I'm working on a plug and play replacement using the original casing from the DSP amp but with two stereo amps and 4 crossovers inside. So it should be possible to unplug the DSP amp, fit this in its place and that will give you the front two channels and the sub while adding four more wires from the head unit to the amp to connect up the two rear channels (the DSP system only supplies left and right channels to the amp, the split and fade function to feed the rear speakers is done in the amp). The only problem I have at the moment is not having access to a car with the DSP system, working or not, to plug it in and try it to make sure it works and see what it sounds like. Once I've got it finished, you can try it on your car if you like.
Things that don't work as they should really annoy me, if it's there it should work and the fun in having everything working is in being able to get in it and use it (up to 416,400 now) without any worries. There's a lot to be gained from the devil you know. You know what the faults are, what you've done and what still needs to be done rather than giving up on it and buying someone else's pile of problems. That's why I spent £2,500 on an engine rebuild for mine rather than just getting a newer, lower mileage one to replace it with. I didn't really want to start all over again with the same problems I'd already dealt with on mine.
Why is the AC light on? Leave it so the light is off and the AC is working, far more likely to keep working that way. The worst thing you can do with AC is not use it and the P38 system is designed to blend hot and cold air so it assumes it will be always on. Blowers are easy enough to check by looking through the pollen filter holes to make sure they are both spinning. If only one is turning that explains a lack of airflow from the heater as the working one sucks air in on one side which instead of flowing through the matrix when it gets to the centre, carries on across the car and out the other side. Fixing the dead blower will turn the book symbol off if that was the cause.
Blend motors can be done without removing the dash. You can check which one is faulty by changing the temperature on each side from Lo to Hi and seeing it the air coming out changes temperature and altering where the flow goes using the buttons on the HEVAC to check the distribution motor. Passenger blend motor can be accessed by dropping the glovebox, distribution and drivers side motor can be accessed through the hole where the instruments live if you take the cluster out. Alternatively, a Nanocom will tell you what is causing the book symbol so you can deal with it.
Is there anything on your car that works as it should?
and a merry Christmas too. Due to lockdown and going into tier 4, our Christmas at my daughter's house was postponed until today. So I've just got home after celebrating a belated Christmas. We'll do Easter in about a months time......
What do you mean, I turned the aircon on? It is on by default, poking the button marked AC OFF so it lights up does what it says, it turns it off. Clutch won't engage all the time, it will cut in and out as needed controlled by the pressure in the system. If the HEVAC has the book symbol showing it won't try to operate whatever caused the book to come on in the first place. So if you have a faulty blend motor, it won't try to operate the blend motors, if you have a faulty blower, it won't try to operate that blower but if it detects a fault with the clutch, it won't try to operate that. However, on a later car like yours, the HEVAC operates a relay which operates the clutch so it doesn't detect a fault if the clutch isn't engaging, only if the relay isn't operating.
Are the ARP ones for the diesel studs rather than bolts like the V8 ones? If they are, although expensive, they make the job so much easier. They have the coarse thread on one end where they screw into the block and a much finer thread at the other end for a washer and nut. It's so easy to simply do them up in stages up to the max of 60-65 ft/lbs (80-85 Nm). I go 40 - 50 - 65 on the torque wrench, none of this heaving on a long breaker bar trying to get 90 degrees which you never can as there's always something in the way.
So that's what the Highlight Topic button does that us mods have access to, done.
Chap in Wales does lots of things, none of which I'd recommend.......
He almost single handedly destroyed RR.net with his comments and arbitrary bans of anyone that had the audacity to disagree or, even worse, correct him. He is the reason this site was started in the first place. Since the new owners took over RR.net he has had his wings clipped and no longer posts advice, just chips in to odd general threads. Problem is, for the owners, that it is too late, most knowledgeable owners have voted with their feet and left so all that is there now is newer members asking the same old questions over and over again.
Pierre3 wrote:
While I was working on the sunroof, trying to get the glass to operate properly I was standing on the side-step, and, having been in and out standing on it, it suddenly decided that it had had enough and, again, "boing", I was standing on the ground and the step was hanging down like a big flap door. More bol***s !!!!. The box section part of the step has rusted through.
Yes, they do that although it's usually a crunch rather than a boing.
I read a few posts by some bloke called ToadhallRR or something like that, who reckons you can take the sunshade out and put it back, with the clips, and all without taking out the cassette. I don't believe this is possible as the two rear clips are right under a strengthening bar which is at the back of the sunroof opening. I did notice that he later admitted that he was wrong and the cassette has to come out.
He's almost always wrong but just for once, he was right (although I got a weeks ban from .net for telling him he was right in the first place and it can be done, nobody has the right to contradict the almighty). Yes, the two clips at the back are under the stiffening bar but that is only held on with a couple of self tappers on each side, so you just take the bar out first. I've taken the shade out at least 3 times without taking the whole cassette out. In fact, when we had the mass headlining session at Marty's workshop a couple of years ago, we took 6 or 7 out to be retrimmed and didn't take the cassette out on any of them.
Incidentally, I found that to remove and replace the sunshade you put one hand under the panel and one hand on one side, where the track is, and gently push up until the panel bends and pops out of the track at the front. The back comes out without a problem, but when you look at the panel you will see a kind of lug on the front edge of the panel which keeps the panel firmly located in the track. This is why you need to bend the sunshade panel quite a bit, for it to pop out. Easy when you do it, but a bit disconcerting when you haven't !!
If you thought it was metal and didn't realise it is simply an ABS moulding, I can understand why you were worried. As you say, just bow it enough for it to drop out of the tracks.
Depends on how you drive it. On the 4.6 Vogue I'm half owner of, I averaged 23 mpg on a cross country run, obviously it would drop running around town or if you poked the Sport button and floored it everywhere.
I bought my first Range Rover, a long wheelbase Classic with the 4.2 V8, running on LPG. The guy I bought it from (a mate of a mate), replaced it with a P38 DSE but found the DSE more expensive to run. The V8 would do around 15mpg on LPG so a cost equivalent of 30mpg or thereabouts while he found the DSE so gutless in comparison he thrashed it mercilessly to try to get something like equivalent performance that it never did better than 24mpg. With the difference in cost between diesel and petrol, there isn't going to be a lot in it compared to running on petrol, LPG just makes running a V8 a similar cost to a normal saloon car.
All the ones I've bought have already had LPG, none of them worked at the time but simple enough to put right. I've got a tank and complete multipoint system I took off a 4.0 litre so even that isn't insurmountable. You'd probably find a V8 on LPG to be cheaper, or at least the same, to run than a diesel.
Going from the top down, you've got Vogue, HSE, SE, S and base (although you could only get the base spec with a diesel engine). Having looked at the specs, painted bumpers suggests it's not an SE but an HSE or Vogue, so will have all the toys.
Not a huge mileage then. If EAS is working fine and everything else is OK, it'll only be things like tyres that will cost bigger money. As you know, everything else is repairable but gearbox, transfer case, diffs, etc should all be fine so no worries there. No FIP, stretching chains and hot start bodgery to worry about and after driving a diesel you will astounded at how fast it is.
Conversely, I wouldn't touch a diesel if it was for free. At least if a head gasket blows on a V8 you just put another one on it, they don't crack heads like the diesel. Grille needs a coat of bumper black, headlamp wash wipe and front fogs says it's at least an SE. As said, if the price is right, go for it.
Nothing to worry about there, as you say, SRS and horn likely to be rotary coupler, exhaust is no biggie and if it didn't leak oil I'd say there wasn't any in it. Excessive is subjective too, what is minor to one tester is excessive to another. Blast the underside with a pressure washer before taking it for test, you'll probably be able to see where it is leaking from then too. Worst case it will be a oil cooler hose.
I paid £600 for the Ascot with a list of failure points on the MoT that ran to a second page. Two days after picking it up (and driving it 90 miles home), it passed the MoT. Most of the things a P38 fail on are the sort of things a specialist will charge a lot of money to sort out (and a non-specialist will just tell you to scrap the car) but if you are already familiar with them and know how to do the work yourself, there's nothing difficult, as you probably already know. If the price is right, go for it.