So did I, re-trimmed?

That's right, you'll have nothing to plug them into. It might be a good idea to short out the plugs, you don't really want a couple of dangling plugs attached to small explosive charges floating around under the seats.....

Yes they are, all door cards will will all years. I know what you mean by the tabs pulling out of the cards. Over half of them had pulled out on a couple of the door panels on my Ascot. I ground the heads down on some self tappers and screwed them into the cards (with a dollop of Araldite to keep them in) to use instead of the original plastic tabs. The cream interior is Lightstone Beige but I don't think it changed over the years. The main difference with interiors is the post 1999 cars had airbags in the seats but the earlier ones didn't. There's 3 bar seats, 5 bar seats and Oxford leather (which are very comfortable) but all are interchangeable.

God No, think of the methane, it's worse than CO2......

When I worked for BT many, many years ago there was an installer called Eric who was well known as a walking disaster area. His job was to install and connect phones in houses. One woman said she wanted a wall phone rather than the normal desk phone and pointed to where she wanted it. Eric bent down and plugged his power drill into a convenient socket and started drilling the mounting holes for the phone bracket directly above the mains socket. One big bang later he realised he'd drilled through the capping and the mains cable buried in the wall feeding the power point he'd just plugged his drill into. He was the same guy that cut off the heating to a whole street too. A new estate had a district heating system, a boiler house on the edge of the estate, feeding hot water to every house on the estate. Eric was drilling a hole in a partition wall to run a cable in when the wall around the hole started to change colour. He realised something wasn't quite right so stopped drilling and pulled the drill out of the hole for it to be followed by a jet of scalding hot water. He'd drilled through a central heating pipe running inside the partition wall. Unfortunately, nobody had thought to install a means of shutting off the supply to individual houses, so the whole street had to be shut off and the partition wall cut open to repair the holed pipe.......

ELCB or RCD will trip if Neutral and Earth are connected. Not sure if you have the same in Ireland as in the UK where the trips on each circuit only cut the live supply or if you use the European system where they break both live and neutral. With the UK system you can switch off a circuit to do some work but still trip out the whole house by earthing the Neutral as they are both still connected. Great fun if you are working on a consumer unit in a cupboard under the stairs and you turn all the lights off.....

As yours is doing it with brand new reducers, apparently it does.

Simon will probably confirm but some LPG reducers do that if certain conditions are met. It's the diaphragm hitting resonance.

Welcome, that makes two of you. Most of us here have the older P38 but you're welcome to join in the banter, you just might not find much help if you have a problem. You might find this thread of interest https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2247-2007-supercharged-l322-project-thread

Shouldn't matter, GEMS and Bosch Motronic both have knock sensors. Might be worth running it on 98/99 Octane petrol (or 112 Octane LPG) to get the best out of it.....

I agree, it did go off at a bit of a tangent but I knew what you were doing. It's made me start thinking of going the other way. Keeping my 4.0 litre pistons (in my top hatted 4.0 litre block) and putting a 4.6 crank and rods in. Running on LPG the higher compression could be used without any danger of pre-ignition.

The 4.6 has a stroke of 82mm and rods that are 149.7mm so from crank centreline to TDC is 190.7mm, whereas the 4.0 litre has a stroke of 71mm and rods that are 155.2mm which, as you would expect, gives a crank centreline to TDC figure of 190.7mm so the blocks are identical and obviously the piston pin to top of the piston has to be the same. The difference is that the dish in the top of the piston is smaller on the 4.0 litre so the compression will be higher.

I currently have a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 tyres on my car and have been very happy with them but they are getting towards the end of their life so I figured I would get another set. As I have the 7"x16" poverty spec wheels, I need 235/70x16 tyres but when I checked oponeo.co.uk where the last set came from, they were shown as out of stock. None of the other online suppliers listed them but I have read elsewhere that certain tyre brands and sizes are in short supply at the moment with a combination of Brexit and Covid being blamed. So I emailed Vredestein to ask if this was a temporary problem and when would they expect to have them back in stock, only to be told that the size I want has been discontinued. They are still doing them in other sizes but I'd rather stick with standard and the alternative all season tyre, the Quatrac Pro, is only available in 17 and 18 inch.

The closest equivalent I can find is the Kleber Citilander which is available in the size I want, has the same C, C, 70dB rating and the 3 peaks marking that I need. I seem to recall a similar discussion a couple of years ago when they were mentioned but did anyone buy them? If so, what are they like?

I have a feeling that all later cars were fitted with a highline BeCM anyway, so it almost certainly does. Blank with no symbol on the HEVAC does mean it never had the heated screen.

For the seat looms your best bet is to find a car in a breakers although there are multiple part numbers depending on whether it is pre or post 99 (up to WA of from XA VIN) and whether you have electric seats or electric memory seats (where you would need the seat outstation too). Most appear to be available to buy new too. See http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88880/89292/7043/89377

Lpgc wrote:

But it's a bit ironic that throughout school people of my age (50) were told that the Earth was headed for another ice age and were shown statistics/ graphs to back that up lol!

I remember being told the very same thing and 15 years prior to you so that theory lasted for quite some time. But, it's like many other things, experts tell us what is good for us or the planet until another bunch of experts come along and tell us something different. They decided to remove lead from petrol as it was alleged to cause retarded brain development in children. They seemed to ignore the fact that most paints in use at that time were lead based and children do have a habit of putting things in their mouth so while some of the lead could have, and probably did, come from exhaust fumes, it wasn't the only source. Removing the lead meant they had to use chemical additives instead but when they were burnt, all sorts of nasty things came out of the exhaust so the answer to that was to fit catalytic converters that turn all the nasty toxins into nice harmless Carbon Dioxide. It must be harmless right? It's what we breath out and the trees then turn it back into Oxygen. Suddenly, CO2 is the bad boy as it will cause global warming, so everyone is encouraged to buy a diesel as they produce less. The experts are happy, CO2 output from road vehicles is reducing but Oh No, there's all this other stuff that diesels produce, NOx, particulates, etc, so now they are the spawn of the Devil. At the moment it is electric vehicles that are the saviour of the world but how long before sufficient experts tell us that the Lithium mining to produce the batteries is doing untold harm to the planet and their view is taken on board? There is already concern about disposal of end of life batteries.

So at the moment EVs are the way everyone is being pushed towards but despite the proposed ban on new ICE powered vehicles from 2030 or 2035 or whenever the Government of the day announces, why are manufacturers still developing and producing hybrids which will be affected by the same ban? Could it be that they are just hedging their bets and waiting for the next bunch of experts to overturn what is the accepted solution at the moment?

We seem to have got way off topic on this thread, but it's interesting none the less.

You just need to ask for a type 634 or 644 battery. That dictates the physical size and terminal type and orientation. Then you want at least 107Ah and a CCA figure as close to 1000A as you can get. It's commonly used in smaller trucks and tractors.

Up to 99 MY (all GEMS in other words) had 2 wheel TC if they had it. It was only the Thor that got 4 wheel TC.

Light steering means you are right and had too much nose weight. Although the EAS keeps the car level, there's still more weight on the back axle than the front. When loading the weight on the back of the trailer will try to lift the back end initially then drive (or winch if it's dead) the load on until the back of the car drops to level. so you'll know when it's right. Too little noseweight and it'll start to snake at speed, particularly when going downhill. Not making any sudden movements is the secret to relaxing towing, so when changing lanes you allow the car to sort of drift across the lanes rather than steering it across them. As well as ratchet straps around the wheels, I always put the handbrake on, whatever is on the trailer in gear or park if it's an auto. and use the winch cable as a safety line so even if everything else fails, it'll stay on the trailer.

Only if the door ajar switch is faulty and it thinks the passenger, or any, door is open as all doors must be closed for the sync to happen. It also needs the immobiliser to be off, keys won't sync if the alarm has been triggered or the immobiliser is set.

I've known this on another car, a 99 French spec diesel that lives just outside Paris that I look after for the owner. She's got 3 keys and after a set of batteries, all 3 synced no problem. A few months ago, she let the battery go flat by leaving the sidelights on. Took the battery off, charged it and when it was put back on, had to enter the EKA. That worked fine but the keys wouldn't sync, not one of them. Last time I was there I had a go and although all three were working fine, Nanocom reported that all microswitches were fine yet the keys will not sync. Mentioned it to Marty and he's known it in the past on odd occasions but has yet to find out why.

It'll have a high line BeCM then. Sunroof, headlamp wash/wipe were fitted to higher spec models and the steering wheel controls only came if you had the high line audio system (with CD changer and sub woofer), mid and low line didn't have them. Wiring for electric seats is just an additional supplementary loom between the BeCM and the seats. Without electric seats there's an unused socket on the side of the BeCM next to the transmission tunnel.

HEVAC will need to be swapped for one with the heated screen button if it never had it. If the button is there, either the HEVAC has been swapped in the past or the screen has been changed and someone got the non-heated one.

Bore on the 4.0 litre and 4.6 are the same and top hat liners is the best thing you can do with them. Makes them near bulletproof as the head gasket fire ring bears on the top of the liner rather than leaving the join between the liner and block within the combustion chamber. The only people that don't recommend it are RPi as they don't do top hats, all the reputable specialists, Turner Engineering, V8 Developments and others all do. But RPi would rather you believed their BS and spent £8k on one of their custom cast blocks (which are no better than original).