GEMS is dead easy as the wires go straight in the top. On a Thor the coils are hidden down the back so nothing like as simple to get to.

Hasn't her indoors got small hands and a pair of Marigolds?

One of the diodes has gone open circuit in the alternator. Alternator generates 3 phase AC which is then rectified by the diode pack. With one down only two phases are being rectified so it shows as the pulsating lights. Better that way than when one goes short circuit as that can flatten your battery in about an hour whenever the car is left.

That'll do it, although is probably a bit overkill. One of these would do nicely https://eleshop.eu/rf-explorer-wsub1g.html. Some bright spark thought they would be useful for us but got this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spectrum-Analyser-RF-Explorer-Combo-silver/dp/B00ENEH2KA. Cheap n cheerful but works although totally surplus as we've all got one of these https://www.keysight.com/en/pdx-x201902-pn-N9915A/fieldfox-handheld-microwave-analyzer-9-ghz?cc=GB&lc=eng in the back of the van

Can't see it if you don't have a faceache account.

It's actually CO2 emissions OR engine size depending on how old it is (see https://www.carzone.ie/news/motoringadvice/Motor-and-Road-Tax-Prices-Ireland-2019-1437.html). Still €1809 (or £1546 at today's exchange rate) though.

I've looked into electric vans for our fleet replacement at work. Despite manufacturers claims on range, once loaded and driven under anything other than perfect conditions, you're looking at 100 miles max. With 30 of us to cover the country, nobody does a mileage that low and the other problem is that as we all take the vehicles home and abandon them wherever there is space, how do we charge them overnight and then how does the employee claim back the cost of electricity from the company?

As we eventually discovered with mine when it was being hit by a faulty 433 MHz wireless central heating thermostat sending bursts of random data every 15 seconds, that bought on the IGNITION TAMPER warning and I suspect you jumping the starter caused the ALARM TAMPER one too. Next time you are at the flat, take a receiver and see what is on 433.95 or thereabouts in the area.

Certainly sounds like that is Gordon's problem. No Check Engine light, no crank but no immobilised message or request for the EKA.

Dave, the problem here is that you have given nothing away. You hide behind Davew, you have made no mention of what you drive these days, where in the country you are, what your qualifications are to back up your posts and just simply spread propaganda from the Climate Change lobby. You have never even acknowledged that some of this propaganda may well be biased or that there are alternative views. When asked about your stance all you've said is it isn't about you but it is. If you are an eminent scientist (which on odd occasions you have hinted that you are) involved in this research, then tell us. If you are a lecturer at a university involved in Climate Change, then tell us. You hint that you'll be doing another Seminar, so where and on what? Can we come along to apply some balance? Everyone fears change if it affects their way of life, irrespective of their age. There have been recent claims that 5G will kill us all so how about we stop the introduction of 5G and, just in case there is some truth in it, we shut down all the 4G too? Then it wouldn't be the oldies that would fear change but the youngsters who spend all their time glued to their smartphones. It all depends on what is important to the individual.

I've made no secret of the fact that I've had to do as much research as I can as I'm involved in selecting the vehicles to replace our work fleet so have had to find out about the various restrictions being introduced around the country. I've also made no secret of the fact that I own 2 P38s, both running on LPG and one has been registered with the French, German, Dutch and Belgian authorities and in all cases it has been regarded as a clean vehicle so has unrestricted access to their low emission zones.

We all have an interest but don't need one sided 'facts' rammed down our throats. Whenever the thread started to die a death, you'd pop up with yet another link to instigate more replies. That is the definition of a troll. We are all entitled to our opinions but opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one but some of them stink.

So what is the fix if that is the case? Is this what the mysterious Security Learn option in the Nano does?

You can get a printout with the EKA, radio code, lockset bar code, etc from your local friendly LR dealer in exchange for a look at your V5. You can set EKA to disabled in the BeCM but I'm not sure what it does. If it doesn't need it how do you reset it when the BeCM and ECM lose sync? Or is it that it just doesn't ask for it?. Even if you are entering it with the Nano, you still need to know what it is.

Do the dash warning lights stay on when you try to crank it or do they go out as well as everything else going off? That would be a sign of a flat battery or duff battery connection. But if that was the case the starter wouldn't turn when you jumper the relay. EKA will be the 4 digit number saved in the phonebook on your phone under EKA. If it isn't it should be. Have you got a Nano or are you still blagging one from Miah when you need it?

Is it asking for the EKA? If not, try it anyway.

Can of freezer spray to chill it before trying to restart, that'd be a new one. I once had a Triumph Spitfire with twin Stromberg carbs so no accelerator pump. If I looked out the window and saw frost on the ground, I'd boil a kettle before going out to go to work. If I didn't pour hot water over the inlet manifold there was no way it was going to start.....

Good work and a filter change can't do any harm. I'm still not convinced that heat soak is the cause of your problems. There's plenty of people who live and visit places that are far hotter than here. If that was the problem and it was a design fault, I'd have expected to have had the same problem whenever I stopped to fill up with LPG with an ambient temperature over 40 degrees.

Dave, there have been calls for this thread to be locked when it got personal previously but the mods decided to let it run as it looked to have died a death anyway. You then chose to keep banging on with semi-relevant posts with links to things that don't really have any relevance. You don't seriously think Lotus have built an electric car with climate change in mind do you? They've built an electric car because they can and everyone else is doing it.

This topic doesn't really belong here anyway, why not find a climate change forum to post instead? We all know the background and we all know that climate change may be happening (or not depending on which side of the fence you sit) but this is a car forum. We drive around in V8 powered petrol fuelled cars and we could continue to drive them for the next thousand years before we even approach the amount of damage being done by deforestation of the rainforests, the oilfield fires in Iraq, etc. Governments say they are doing their bit by banning diesels and restricting the use of petrol fuelled vehicles and try to push everyone down the route of electric cars. Completely ignoring the CO2 being generated (and other environmental damage) in mining the Lithium for the batteries and the further CO2 generated when they reach the end of life in getting rid of them.

I'd be inclined to suggest that they aren't the ones that should get a grip.

EAS Manual will be caused by either a loom plugged in the BeCM (usually using a bundle of blue wires and a power feed taken from one of the BeCM inputs) or a pair of jumpers at the plug for the EAS ECU.

It's fairly easy to test a valve block and driver pack and, at the same time, check for any internal leaks. There's two connectors involved, one from the rest of the car and one between the driver pack and valve block. With the driver pack connected to the valve block, you can test from the other connector. This will test both the driver pack and solenoids. Put 12V onto pins 12 and 13 (both with red wires) and ground on pins 10 and 11 (both with black wires). You can then apply 12V to pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 one at a time and each one will cause one of the solenoids to open so you will hear it click. If you use a short length of air line into the 4 outlets that would feed the air springs and pressurise from there (I use one of the push on Schrader valves and a tyre pump), it should hold pressure until you operate the relevant solenoid. You can't check the inlet, exhaust and diaphragm valves this way unless you have a bit of 8mm air line and matching Schrader valve (which I haven't got).

As long as you make sure the electrical and pneumatic side of things is working before you remove the coil springs and fit the air springs, you won't turn the car into a 2 tonne doorstop. I recently un-converted a late model LWB Classic from coils back to air. Stripped and rebuilt the compressor, replaced the O rings in the valve block and tested it on the bench as above, replaced the leaking O rings that the owner of the car had managed to damage when putting it back together, fitted everything to the car and connected up the air lines. Using EASUnlock we could check that we were getting sensible readings from the height sensors by jacking the car up and seeing if the readings changed. We could then let the compressor run to build up pressure in the reservoir and again, with EASUnlock, open each corner valve in turn and check that air came out of the lines. We then fitted a Schrader valve in place of each air spring, pressurised the system and left it overnight. The following day we could check to see if the valves all had pressure behind them and, as they had, then and only then did we take the coil springs off and fit the air springs.

What does the dash say then? It would either say EAS Manual (only initially when you first start it) or EAS Fault 35 MPH Max. Check that the EAS ECU is plugged in too.

You don't want V4, that's the one that costs money, the free version is here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 along with the cable as described here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos. But if you've got a Nano you won't need either as it can clear the faults for you.

If the dash comes up and shows EAS Manual, there will be a bypass harness somewhere. It might be the one that money is charged for which is a harness, usually using blue wires, that plugs into the BeCM and will be found by the fuse panel, it might be a couple of jumpers in the plug that should go to the EAS ECU under the LF front seat. Whichever it is, remove it. You'll need everything plugged in for it to try to work but remember that if the coils are still there and the height sensors are working, then it might be at the correct height anyway so it won't open any of the valves to try to inflate the air springs. Let the compressor run for 10 minutes or so, after which time it should cut out, then try selecting the highest setting. That should cause it to open the valves and blow all the air out.