Yes, been using nothing but since the engine went in to V8 Dev to be rebuilt (at their recommendation). 105,000 miles since and it still as smooth as it was when it went in.

It would appear that the prize goes to Brian. Disconnected one end of the steering damper, wound it lock to lock a couple of times and no noise. Sprayed the damper with white grease, worked it from end to end a few times, reconnected it, tried it again and still no noise. So to be absolutely sure I need to drive it a bit but it has at least reduced it.

I haven't but it shouldn't be too difficult to disconnect it to check, although it does sound to be coming from the steering box. I'm also considering changing the fluid which may flush out some dirt that could be in there. Just got to order some Dex 3 from ECP to do that.

Just noticed. That DVD player has video and audio in on the front panel but it appears to show AV in 1 and 2 (top left by the power button). Does this mean there is an additional AV input on the back? If there is that would make plugging a digital decoder in very simple. Only problems would be getting the aerial to it and arranging for the remote to work. Highly unlikely the original remote would operate it and not sure where it could be mounted so the IR sensor can see the signal from a remote.

Having got the Ascot sorted and road legal, one little thing that is a bit puzzling is the steering. Apart from the fact that it feels a bit more vague than mine at straight ahead, which is probably a combination of top and bottom ball joints and the pretty dodgy tyres that are on it, it's got a sort of moaning, groaning noise when turning from lock to lock. Power steering is working fine, it all feels smooth, power steering fluid is up to the max mark, it just makes a noise. Anyone got any ideas why?

Blimey, that's well crammed in. Had an email saying the Digital decoder will be here on Saturday (so I suspect although the eBay listing said it was in London it's probably actually coming from China) and had a call from H&H so as soon as I've got it we can see if we can get it to work with his spare system on the bench.

Not today but over the last couple of days I continued on the Ascot. Replaced the core plugs as two were leaking (the two that were easiest to get to, the ones that are a right pain were fine - doh!) so it now keeps all the coolant where it's supposed to be. Then decided that if I was going to keep it as a standby, it should really be legal. Phoned my usual MoT tester to find they were shut so tried my second choice. He was open and yes, could do it. Took it down there via the local LPG filling station as I had no idea how much gas it had left in it. He was impressed and it passed with only a couple of advisories. The boot on one of the lower ball joints was split and from the way it drives I suspect both upper and lower ball joints need changing anyway, and about the only metal brake pipe on the whole car that hasn't been changed for copper nickel is a bit rusty. That's it. We did find a few amusing relics from the bodgers who looked after it for the previous owner. I'd already noticed that a couple of brake pipes coming off the ABS modulator had been replaced but the original steel ones still left in place just disconnected. The same was found underneath where the old ones are still there, just chopped off and not doing anything.

Today I got really desperate and used some vinyl cleaner on the dash and plastic interior bits on mine. This cleaning lark will never catch on......

That might have a lot to do with it.......

Not got poly bushes in it by any chance have you? Like Gordon, I'd go for the Shitpart ones as original Boge are no longer available, cheap, with a warranty and easy to replace when you have to take them off to replace them under warranty.

I know you've spent hours polishing it but what have you done to the suspension? Bushes, ball joints, shocks, etc?

Originals were Boge. Has it suddenly got worse or has it always been like this?

Yes, 13 pin but with only 12 used.

Are they Allen headed bolts on the heads? Stretch bolts or just standard torque them up to the required setting?

That makes sense. A box with coax going in will be the receiver and the 3 phono jacks will be the video and L/R audio. Not sure what the second one will be though, something to deal with switching the sources maybe? If this is how it is arranged, then putting a digital decoder in place of the analogue tuner should work. Do the screens work from the current DVD player?

That would make sense, a TV aerial etched into the rear window like the radio aerials would be ridiculously directional so you'd only get a picture when driving in the right direction. I suspect it is going to be amplified too so that will need power but we'll cross that bridge when the time comes (whenever that is....).

Clean the idle air valve.

Swapping the innards over is fairly simple as long as you can get the glass off without breaking the plastic frame that holds it in place. I've managed to do it once and it popped out just as it is supposed to but every other time the plastic frame has broken. Fortunately it is available as a separate part (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mirror-glass-clip-stc4625-p-450.html)

If the third fob is an original supplied with the car, it should sync. The process for syncing is the 'secret' method that an LR dealer will often charge you £50 'programming' fee.

I've got a feeling the cap thread is a smaller diameter too so it won't even screw on. If you look at the Island listing it shows it as a Disco 1 part and not a P38 part.

I've ordered a digital decoder and DC-DC converter which should be here by the middle of next week so I can have a play with it. It turns out that H&H is only 15 miles from me and has a near complete spare system so we can test it on the bench. Any idea where the TV aerial is located on the car?