Have you got power at Fuse 1? That is supplied directly from Maxi Fuse 1. Odd that the engine still starts as that requires both relay 15 and 19 to energise so you obviously have an ignition switched supply.
A word of advice, when you fit the correct window regulator, drill the holes out a bit and use M6 bolts with nylock nuts rather than rivets. the rivets eventually start to fail and the whole lot wobbles about.
No, pull it out, split in in half, sieve the desiccant to get rid of the dust, put the remaining granules in the microwave to dry them out and then put it back together.
I don't see why not, it can't weigh that much and as you say would give you more space to play with. Would be worth changing the steel fuel pipes that run along the top of the RH chassis rail too while it is in that state. The return rusted through on my old SE so it generated a puddle of petrol under it when running but not when switched off. I'll admit I cheated a bit on that (the same as I did when I had the same problem on my Classic) and replaced both pipes with 7.9mm ID hose which was a perfect fit between the chassis and body.
They are, the two copper pipes that had been fitted to the Ascot had just been stuffed in roughly in place with the odd tie wrap attaching them to the original ones. I pulled out most of them and fitted the pipes into the clips but the bit at the back above the chassis rail is still there, just chopped off at each end. At least I've won myself a few spare pipe ferrules now. Rather than disconnect everything, re-run it and have to bleed the whole system, I took the panhard rod off and refitted it under the hoses.
Figured mine didn't look right.......
Hoses run under the Panhard rod and bracket bent so the pipes were hard up against the axle
and this is how they are now, along with a new nearside pipe. Angle is still different to how it should be but as I finished it off in the rain, I'll give it a bend when I'm next under it.
Should have spent the money on desiccant for the dryer, either that or take it out and stick it in the microwave at least. I bet it's set like solid porridge. The thermal switch cuts out at 105 degrees C and the compressor is designed and built to be able to withstand the heat so shouldn't need any additional cooling.
That's one for Gordon to answer but there is the Track Topic button. No idea what it does or how it works but presumably it does something useful.
Thanks David, that's perfect. So they should have the twist in them but should go over the panhard road and not under it. My bracket has been bent almost over 90 degrees so the hoses point straight backwards and the metal pipes are jammed against the axle. At least now I know what it should look like I can get it back to how it should be.
Yes, it was up to 97 model that have the hoses going to the centre of the axle, later ones have them coming off the chassis on each side.
I thought the bodgers who replaced the front to back pipes had got them crossed as the hoses have a twist in them (which I assumed was to take the cross out), but RAVE shows them as crossed too. Fortunately the Nanocom can open the inlet valves for each wheel so I was able to confirm they aren't crossed and the left calliper operates when you tell it too.
In the process of replacing the one remaining (rusted) steel brake pipe on the Ascot that was put down as an advisory on the MoT. It's one of the ones that runs along the back axle but the bracket holding the ends of the two hoses that run from the body to the axle is pretty bent and mangled. This means that the pipes that come from it are tight against the diff housing. Started straightening the bracket and there doesn't seem to be a lot of slack in the hoses. Should the hoses go above or below the panhard rod? At the moment they are below it and the protective spring thing is wearing but if I route them above it that will put them closer to the exhaust. Which is correct?
Front air spring looks a bit perished?
Using one of those balance bars makes the job must easier. I wish I'd have had one last time I was putting an engine in. Using just strops from the lifting points and trying to tilt the engine down at the back meant it twisted so the engine was no longer level which meant it couldn't be moved back far enough to mate with the bellhousing as one engine mount was fouling on the chassis. Ended up using ratchet straps on each corner so it could be adjusted both up and down and side to side.
What kickdown switch? What car, engine and gearbox?
Look at the top left of the screen, the box is red to show you don't have a connection. They should be green and showing Good Idle.
Have you ever done anything with the dryer? If that is clogged it would cause the compressor to have to work that much harder to force the air through it. From your description it does sound like the thermal cutout is doing the job it was meant to do. It causes power to be cut to the compressor when it gets too hot then allows it to run again when it cools down,
The fact that it runs, then stops, runs then stops could suggest it is getting very hot and the thermal switch is doing it's job and cutting power then reconnecting it (rather than cutting it and staying cut like they do when they fail). It will get hot, or at least the air will, when it is compressed, but the actual motor part shouldn't get that hot unless it is working much harder than it should. Did the motor turn freely when you had it apart? Did you clean out the holes under the reed valves?
None at all, it's a DSE.......
Bet it's louder because you put the washers on the mounts the wrong way up. They are dished, bottom ones go on concave side down, top ones go on with the concave side up. You should get the tick, tick, tick when you switch off unless you are parked on a perfectly level surface. It levels 3 corners to match whichever one is lowest.
On the other side some of them need to ask for advice before changing a light bulb so can make everything seem difficult. Repairing the handle is a bit fiddly but there's a sticky on here (https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless) on how to do it. For the front's, you can take the handles off without removing the door cards. Once you've taken the Torx screw out, you need to slide it back to release it, pull it out as far as it will come, disconnect the rod from the lock (on the drivers side anyway), then pull it out further and rotate to release the rod for the handle.