Fob #2 is synced but #1 isn't so as long as you unlock with #2, then the immobiliser is off so it starts relying solely on the bit of metal with a wiggly groove in it. Smart sync doesn't always work, so you will need to do the manual sync.
Unlock the car first with #'2 so it is unlocked and the immobiliser turned off. Put #1 key in the drivers door, turn to lock, hold there and while holding there, press and hold the Lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster. Release the fob button, then turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold and while holding, press and hold the Unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key back to centre and it should now be synced.
One thing to remember is that originally the car would have been supplied with 4 keys, numbered 1 to 4. 1 and 2 will set the memory seats while 3 and 4 won't. If at any time since a replacement key has been purchased it will likely be a 3 or 4 key but you can't have two keys with the same number synced at the same time. So if you have two number 3 keys both will sync but they can't both be synced at once, it will be one or the other
What happened then? Were you able to sync it again?
I've been busy too, well let's face it, there's nothing else I can do. I officially retired on Tuesday and the original plan was that this week would be spent getting ready for a trip to France but that's not going to happen for a while now, so I needed something else to do. The Ascot has been sitting next to a hedge so the nearside had started to turn a bit green and the rest of it was pretty dirty too so it was looking a bit sorry for itself. Fired it up to move it to make it easier to get around and instead of firing up on petrol and immediately switching to gas, it fired up on petrol then immediately died. Knowing it had at least half a tank of LPG put that on the to do list and ran it on petrol instead. Let it idle for a while and the idle started to get a bit lumpy and it smelled really rich. Next one for the to do list.
Out with the pressure washer and stepladder so I could even do the roof. Wet it, squirt it with some foamy stuff I bought when I first got the pressure washer, then went over it with the rotating brush before blasting everything off. Damn me, It isn't green it's silver! Remove the well worn Champion spark plugs and treat it to a set of NGKs and fire it up. Still smells rich. Plug the Nano in and find a reported airflow from the MAF of 0.0 kg/hr. That might have something to do with it. Dig a secondhand spare MAF out from the garage and try that, just the same. Try them both on my car and they are both dead. So have a poke about on the LPG system, find a broken earth wire, fix that, fire it up, switch to LPG and it carries on running. Result, no need for a MAF in that case, that can wait until later.
So that was yesterday, it's running fine and looks almost respectable so what next? It's always had a bit of an oily underside so maybe I could find the oil leak? It's mostly around the front of the engine so I'm thinking front crank seal, oil cooler hose, sump, oil pressure relief valve O ring or similar. Blasted the oil off so it was clean, fired it up and ran it for the best part of half an hour and it was still clean. I did remember nipping up the oil cooler hose union once before so maybe I've already fixed it without realising?
One thing that has annoyed me since I got it was the offside rear door trim not fitting right. The pegs along the top weren't doing anything so it had a gap of almost an inch between the top of the trim and the window. Off with the trim, refit it properly and that's that job done. Notice that the back seat had developed a bit of mildew on it over the winter. Find my bottle of leather cleaner and in doing so knock over a bottle of Autoglym bumper and trim gel knocking the corner off the bottle. Put that to one side and attack the rear seat with leather cleaner. That makes the fronts look grubby so do them too. Then decide to see if this bumper gel really works and have a go at the black trim along the top of the doors and round the windows. Blimey, they're black again rather than a sort of greyish colour. It's actually starting to look quite tidy!
If my MoT station is still working I'll get it in there (as the ticket on it ran out last September) for test and then I'll have a spare I can use legally in case I get a sudden urge to start finding things to do on my everyday one. I've only had two days but I'm starting to like this retirement lark.....
Yes, you've got the EKA sequence correct. If it needs the EKA only the drivers door will unlock when you turn the key. The last number will be entered by turning to lock so if you then turn to unlock, all doors will unlock.
As long as the new key was ordered from the VIN, unlock the car first either with your other fob or with the key in the door (and enter the EKA code if you need to) so it is unlocked and the immobiliser turned off. Put the new key in the drivers door, turn to lock, hold there and while holding there, press and hold the Lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster. Release the fob button, then turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold and while holding, press and hold the Unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key back to centre and it should now be synced.
and Rob types faster than me.......
You could always get her to drive you to the supermarket? Pick one a fair distance away and if you get pulled, which is pretty unlikely, I did over 90 miles yesterday and didn't, just tell them your local one had run out of bog rolls/bread/eggs/milk......
My boss once queried why, if I am getting the train to London, the car park ticket always has the registration number for my car on it and not the works van. I pointed out that I'm not allowed to do any private mileage in the works van (and it's GPS tracked) so if I want to do some shopping on my way home from the station, I'll use my own car. The fact that I would rather drive it over a 15 plate Renault Kangoo any day has nothing to do with it.....
romanrob wrote:
Does it matter which way round 85 and 86 were with a std relay?
It may if the relay has a built in diode to prevent the back emf from damaging whatever is driving it. It's very weird what you've found as disconnecting the ground shouldn't have any other affect. It is there to give a path to ground from the switch illumination and on one side of the two switches so why it didn't work I have no idea.
Book symbol means it has detected a fault when first powered up. Do you hear the blend motors moving when you first switch on the ignition? If all 3 move from one end of their travel to the other, then there isn't a fault so they will work as they should. If a fault is detected the book symbol is bought on and the HEVAC won't try to move that blend motor. Can you adjust the temperature? If you can then the two heat blend motors are working and being driven but the distribution motor is being inhibited. You need diagnostics to confirm but I would suspect the distribution blend motor has a dead spot on the feedback pot as Gordon has outlined.
Disconnecting the ground from pin 3 of C219 is no different to the headlight switch being in the off position, no ground signal being sent to the BeCM. I was wondering if you'd wired the relay wrong so the BeCM was seeing the ground through the 300 or so Ohm resistance of the relay coil, but if that was the case, then all that would happen would be that the lights wouldn't operate at all with the relay removed (and it probably wouldn't operate with the ignition on). Check that the relay is wired correctly, ignition switched power to pin 85, ground to pin 86, and use pins 30 and 87 to break the ground to the headlight switch.
The Ascot has it and I also find it annoying. I keep my mirrors set so I'm not looking at the sky and can not only see the road behind me but can also see the ground at the back of the car and the trailer when I've got one on. I suppose it might be different if the mirrors have flat glass in them but both mine are convex so I can see more in them anyway.
Much the same round here. The big Tesco Extra was ridiculously busy last time I went near there and I'm told there wasn't a lot left on the shelves but our village shop has just about everything you'd need. So with that and a local farm shop, haven't really had a problem. Got a full tank of LPG and just because I could, I've bunged some petrol in it too. Never seen the fuel gauge read over half a tank! Even though I officially retire on Tuesday, as a key worker I've got the official letter allowing me to go out, so I'll be hanging onto that just in case. In saying that, I've already been asked if I will come back as a contractor if needed. As a retirement piss up couldn't be organised due to the restrictions, we had a virtual party on Microsoft Teams last night, 23 people at the peak and it held up perfectly. Quite amusing seeing people all over the country drinking beer, cheaper too as it saved me having to buy a round!
Your average tealeaf isn't going to know the relevance of a Vogue SE badge or even how it is likely to differ from any other 20 year old Range Rover. With the difficulty that some owners have with the immobiliser and alarm system on a P38 even when they have the keys, I would think the chances of someone nicking one these days is pretty remote. They are too old to be nicked to be stripped for spares and too complicated to be nicked to ship over to Africa.
It's a 13 way connector with only 12 ways used. The non-memory mirrors only have a 6 way connector so won't be interchangeable. The motors are connected to pins 3 and 5 (Red and Yellow wires) for the left/right motor, pins 2 and 4 (Grey and Blue wires) for the up/down motor. There are also the two feedback potentiometers with the tracks in parallel connected to pins 10 and 13 (Black/Red and White wires) with the wipers connected to pin 11 (Orange wire) for the up/down feedback and pin 12 (Purple wire) for the left/right feedback. So if 12V is applied to pins 2 and 4 (one way round for up, the other way round for down) with an Ohm meter connected between pins 10 and 11, you should see a smoothly varying resistance as the motor drives the mirror up and down. If you do it could be that the track is disconnected at one end so try the same check between pins 11 and 13.
Chances are you won't see a smoothly varying resistance but one that jumps when it reaches the worn part of the track. It might be possible to rescue it for a while if you can get some contact cleaner into the pot but as it is designed to be exposed to the elements it is a sealed unit so it's unlikely you'll be able to get any cleaner inside it. The only thing you can buy is a complete mirror (at £200+), you can't buy individual components other than the glass.
If you do manage to get it working it'll be a first as I don't know of anyone that has ever managed to fix them. The mirrors are large enough that they can be adjusted so you can see what is behind you and still see the ground behind the car. Many people set their mirrors so the horizon is across the middle of the mirror but as you don't really need to see following aircraft, they can be tilted downwards so you still see what is behind you but see the ground too.
I've got a blower with knackered bearings but the controller is fine. I offered to send it to Bolt but he got the Citroen unit and fitted that (much cheaper and quicker than the postage from the UK). I can send it to you if you want although it might be easier to just get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-BERLINGO-MPV-MK1-PEUGEOT-PARTNER-MK1-HEATER-BLOWER-FAN-RESISTOR-NEW/153186756109
From pictures the complete fan unit looks very similar although I wouldn't like to say they are identical without putting the two side by side.
The only thing you have to remember is that when the battery is reconnected it will always return to the state it was in when disconnected. So if it was locked and immobilised when the battery was disconnected (as will happen if the battery goes flat), it will return in that state. The only time you will then have a problem is if the microswitches in the drivers door latch are poorly. As the battery has been disconnected the fob will no longer be synced and, with faulty microswitches you won't be able to enter the EKA. However, if you are disconnecting the battery deliberately, then it is pretty likely the car will be unlocked so the immobiliser will be off and that is how it will be when you reconnect the battery. You shouldn't even need to sync the fob.
When the late Orangebean first went into hospital, he emailed me asking if I could send an idiots guide to removing the battery on his VSE as he didn't want to deal with any problems when he came back to it (which he, unfortunately, never did). As this was going to be done by a non-technical friend, it had to be easy to follow so it's worth reposting here for anyone else who wants to do the same.
When the time comes to put the battery back on,
Mirror going up when put into reverse or going down but not returning when you come out of reverse is caused by failed feedback pot in the mirror motor mechanism. Two options, spend a fortune on a replacement mirror or turn the feature off. To turn it off, ignition in position 2 but engine not running, select reverse and press and hold the memory button for two seconds. Then the mirrors won't move when you select reverse but they will stay where they are.
Not sure what you mean by the fusebox being on all the time. Both fuseboxes are going to be powered on some circuits.
If the average is climbing to higher than what it would do on petrol, the gas system is too rich so causing the petrol fuel trims to go negative (leaning it off). It wants to be showing the same as it shows on petrol for the same run. You did say when it ran on gas the economy was pretty dire so that would make sense. Any engine is most efficient at peak torque, hence the reason why you'll get more miles per gallon cruising at 75 mph than at 50 mph.
For oil pressure you could use something like this https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/stainless-steel-18-npt-adapter between engine block and pressure switch and fit a gauge sender in the extra hole. You are aware that you can adjust the reading on the temperature gauge aren't you? It is what would normally be termed a compressed scale gauge so only reads over a limited range. Mine is set to reach the red at 105 degrees. There's trimmer pots on the top of the instrument PCB that allow you to adjust the offset and slope for the speedo and tacho along with the reading for the fuel and temperature gauges.
Which BMW header tank do people use. I read a post from Dave3d on the dark side where he suggested a BMW E34 header tank but when I found that one (here http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E34-Sedan/Europe/M5_3.6-S38/browse/radiator/expansion_tank/) it appears from the picture to be a mirror image of ours.
They are the same as fitted to trucks but cut to shape. It's these https://www.truckware.co.uk/acatalog/Anti-Spray_Mudflaps_-_Manufactured_by_Clearpass.html