Came very close when I bought my ex-plod. Bought as a spares or repair job on eBay with a burst rear air spring and a head gasket blowing into the Vee on one cylinder so it ran on 7 from a guy in York, about 130 miles away. Went up there in the Classic with a trailer to bring it back. The battery was flat but the seller jump started it and I was able to drive it onto the trailer. Got it home and went to unload it only to find the battery was flat again. Home at that time was a flat with a secure car park but the car was outside on the road (as I didn't fancy trying the turn the trailer around in the limited space in the car park). Connected a decent battery only to see Keycode Lockout showing on the dash. Went inside to Google this and found I had to wait for it to go out. Waited, it went out only to be replaced with Engine Immobilised, etc. Now what? Googled to see what this code it was asking for was and encountered the EKA for the first time which, I was reliably informed, would be in the handbook. Only problem was that I didn't have the handbook, all I had been given by the seller was a V5 and one working keyfob. All this time it was sitting on a hired trailer that had to be back at the hire place by 5:30 and it was getting on for 3pm.....

To this day I do not know how I managed to start it without the EKA but eventually, with much running back and forth between the car on the trailer and the computer in the house, I turned off the immobiliser, start it, get it off the trailer and drive it into the car park. I suspect all it needed was to be unlocked with the fob, or maybe with the key, I've no idea, but I did it somehow. First thing the next morning I went into the local LR main dealer and got the printout with the all important EKA in case I managed to do whatever it was that had caused it to be immobilised in the first place.

I must have been very lucky with it. First job was to replace both rear air springs and, having fitted the new ones, I didn't even need any diagnostics for the EAS. I just started it up (on 7), left it running for a while and up it came.

If using the free software, you can only set one height at a time. So put the blocks in for high, let it sit on the blocks, read the heights and write those. Then fit the next set and repeat. When I made my blocks I found getting the low profile ones out of the bumpstops was the hardest part of the whole job. So I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the end so I can screw an M6 bolt in and use that so I've got something to get hold of and pull them out.

We are doing at the moment but you can guarantee that as soon as the lockdown is lifted so we can all go out again, the weather will turn to crap.....

Same as the fronts, undo the bolt that you can see with the door open, slide the handle forwards and pull it out.

Gorilla Glue expands when it dries, I use Evo Stick contact adhesive.

Strange. When I checked yesterday they were there, today they aren't. Not that I need them (as both my cars have a towing electrical socket on one side and the LPG filler on the other) but I thought that for 2 quid for 5 I could buy them and send one to you. Alas, not to be, someone obviously bought the last pack of 5. C'mon, own up, who was it?

Wouldn't have thought so. The weight of the paint will be negligible and if you've got an even coat it will still be balanced anyway.

You can from http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos/167-range-rover-p38a-making-the-eas-serial-cable but if you don't have a spare OBD plug laying around, it's cheaper to buy a ready made cable than it is to buy just the plug.

You could try phoning Clarion. Whether or not they are working I've no idea, but they might be able to point you in the right direction.

They are, and that appears to be for a pack of 5!!

https://pablanchard.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=NTC8902

If it came out like that I'm not surprised the O ring is ruined, the barrel is upside down! The flat side goes on the bottom and the side with the step goes into the top to bear against the O ring.

As for a cable, it depends what laptop you intend using it with. Ideally you want something really old and low spec with a serial port so you don't have to use a serial/USB adapter. If you do need to use a USB adapter make sure you get one with an FTDI chipset or it will be constantly dropping the connection.

leolito wrote:

obviously you need a mains... uh, you guys in UK got what, 110V?

Nah, we get proper 240V, none of this wimpy 110V like they get in the States.....

Yes, it is the Clarion Diversity units that I've sent to Clarion in the past. However, they have a flat rate charge of £95 for a full refurb which includes removing the code and adding a line-in. If the unit is dead and needs repairing then that isn't too bad if you want to keep thing original, but a bit steep if all you need is the code removing. Clarion can be found here http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Repair.html although I have no idea if they are currently working. Might be an idea giving them a call and seeing if they can remove the code or maybe even tell you what it is from the serial number. Otherwise, this site has been used in the past with success https://instant-radio-code.com/clarion-radio-unlock-code

Easiest way to do it if you decide you need to keep an alarm sounder is to just connect some sort of sounder between the Purple/Yellow and Black wires in the 4 way connector to the sounder. The other two wires are to keep the internal battery charged. A cheapo piezo sound bomb (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Piezo-siren-sounder-sound-bomb-for-security-alarms-110-decibels/254457190394) should wake the neighbours.....

Compression will only go as far as the bumpstops just as it would with standard length shocks. It's extension that will cause a problem as the maximum extended length of the shocks is what limits the amount of axle movement. With longer than standard shocks it would be possible for the air springs to over-extend and pop off the end caps, stretch the brake hoses and damage the height sensors by allowing more movement than anything was designed for.

Sounds like you have the battery backed alarm sounder and the internal battery is dying.......

Here's a little lockdown project more suited to the UK than solar https://greenterrafirma.com/making-pvc-wind-turbine-blades.html

About 6 years ago my car developed a vibration from the rear. I had recently replaced the, very worn original, rear diff so it couldn't be that and after changing propshaft UJs, rear discs, pulling half shafts to check wheel bearings, getting rear wheels balanced and nothing seemed to make any difference although no matter what I did it seemed to reduce slightly with each job. A couple of people suggested the transfer case and although I couldn't see it myself, decided to change it anyway. Bought a secondhand one and set about fitting that. After spending an entire weekend under the car and having roped in my son in law to assist with getting the replacement in, took it out and tried it. No difference, still had this vibration which, by then, was only minor at around 60 mph with nothing below that and stopping once I hit 65. Decided I could live with it and gave up. Shortly afterwards I had to take evasive action which involved a rapid change of lanes and flooring the throttle resulting in the well known machine gun sound effect from the transfer case Morse chain. Decided that as I knew the original transfer case was in better nick than this one obviously was, and changing it hadn't made any difference to the vibration, I'd swap them back and put the original in again.

This time, before taking it off, I made a bracket that I could bolt to the bottom of the transfer case to hold it at the correct angle when getting it back in. This made refitting it a one man job but it still took me a full day to swap them over again. So now I could floor the throttle without the chain skipping but still had the vibration between 60 and 65mph. Decided I would have to live with it as by now, it was noticeable but not too objectionable.

Then I had a towing job to do, not my usual 2,000 mile round trip but a fairly local one but when I stopped to fill up with gas, noticed that the entire rear tailgate and the trailer A frame were covered in spots of liquid. Had a look underneath and there was oil, or in actual fact, ATF, from the front of the transfer case rearwards. Deciding this needed looking at fairly urgently I had another look in RAVE. It was only then when I noticed that in block capitals it tells you that whenever the transfer case it removed, you MUST replace the gearbox output shaft seal. Guess who hadn't seen that bit before......

So, that resulted in a further day spent underneath the car removing a perfectly good transfer case so I could replace a seal that I should have replaced the first (and second) time it had been off. I did eventually find the source of the vibration though. The one thing I hadn't suspected, the rear diff that I had replaced not long before it had first started. The nose bearing had seized so the whole thing was turning in the housing. This time, rather than a secondhand one from a breaker, it got a reconditioned one from Ashcrofts, and the vibration immediately disappeared.

It's a Range Rover, not a bloody sports car. 'Firming it up' will just make it more uncomfortable. If you got the adjustable ones, set them at their softest.

LRO says 118mph (https://www.lro.com/reviews/land-rover-range-rover-p38-4x4-review). I've seen 169kph on the sat nav and 105 mph on the speedo (so my ex-plod calibrated speedo is still accurate) on a downhill through Germany. Bottled it as soon as I saw how quickly I was going even though I wasn't doing as much as some of the cars overtaking me.