The crap falls out from around the CV joint. I've found an aerosol of brake cleaner blasts most of it out.

We did 7 or 8 at a summer camp a couple of years ago and didn't take the seats out of any, just tilt the headlining and pull it out the back. We had a couple of guys taking them out, my other half attacking them with a wire brush to get the old glue and foam off, two more of us sticking the new material on and trimming the edges before handing back to the removal guys to put them back in.

davew wrote:

It seems Toad's 'banning rights' were revoked then

Where did you see that? Not that it matters as I only got 2 or 3 one week bans from him, my lifetime ban came from "the site owners" according to a personal email from LLT (who claimed that he had argued with them in my defence and pointed out that I had contributed a lot to the forum over the years). That's why I really want them to adopt my suggested site Intro text.......

I've just lobbed another grenade in to see if anyone picks up on it. I've even amended my signature so they know who I am. I'm trying really hard to get another ban but not even a warning so far. However, LLT has resigned as a Mod and RRTH has been demoted from Admin to Super Mod which, in a PM he described as a sort of Admin Lite.

All I can say is it sounds like you'll get it to work, it's just a shame your E39 was a 530d and not a 545i. Then you'd have had the 4.4 litre V8 that went into the early L322. That is a conversion I'd like to try on a Thor. They both use the Bosch Motronic engine management so all the required outputs to interface with the rest of a P38 should be there, the L322 uses the 5 speed ZF 5HP24 rather than the, near identical, 4 speed ZF 4HP24 so, in theory, with a bellhousing swap it should be possible to mate the L322 lump to the P38 box. Now whether it would be able to handle the 300 bhp from the later engine or not is a different matter but it should be fairly simple to find out with a heavy right foot.......

Only the first year? For the first 2 years of owning mine I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it! But, once sorted, and with a bit of preventative maintenance, they should go on forever. I'm up to 381,000 miles in mine now.......

Rather than trying to glue the old headlining fabric back up, your best bet is to replace it with nice new fabric. Have a look here https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php, pick your colour (consensus is that Oatmeal is the closest match to teh original even though it doesn't look it in the picture) and do a proper job. You'll need to rope your brother in to help as it is definitely a 2 person job but as he's the one telling you it still looks crap you can blame him anyway.

You managed to get it out in one piece? That must be a first. Glad it was an easy fix though.

I turned the ignition on while one of the ABS sensors was disconnected and got the same fault before the car had even been started. Did it come on while driving or as soon as you started it?

K-Seal leaves tiny coppery coloured bits everywhere, dead giveaway as soon as you take the header tank cap off.

and all I did was copy the link into the insert image box? But that's what I call a trailer, I want one!

The seal is glued to the back of the light unit so comes with the light rather than as a separate part.

Certainly sounds like one of the ABS sensors is playing up and assuming one wheel is locking. It could be a faulty sensor although I would expect that to bring on the warning lamp. It could be a sloppy wheel bearing so the sensor to reluctor ring gap is changing under braking?

It could indeed be getting in around the rear light. It's held in place with 3 or 4 small nuts on the end of some studs but has a seal around the inside of it to seal it against the bodywork. If it's been off in the past you may not have a full set of nuts (it's very easy to drop them when refitting) or the seal may have deteriorated so it no longer seals against the body panel.

Just edited it so a picture shows. There were two problems, you tried to link to a gallery rather than a single image and you didn't replace the HTTP:// that is automatically put in the box. Select the image you want to upload, on the RH side of the page you have a number of different link formats, you need to use the second one down, marked Direct Link (with a link ending in .jpg). Click on copy and it highlights it but, for some reason, doesn't copy it you need to right click and select copy. Then go back to your post, put the cursor where you want the picture, click the image box and paste the link into there, making sure you overwrite rather than append to the HTTP that is already in the box.

James, post your photos to Imgur or similar and then paste the IMGur direct link into the pop up box that appears when you click the insert picture icon.

No there's no fused supply to the headlights, in fact there's no fuses at all, it's all done by the MOSFETS in the BeCM. They supply the power and are overload protected so if there is a short to ground that would ordinarily blow a fuse, the MOSFET shuts down and turns the supply off to that circuit until the short is removed. Sloth's china china box, which I think should probably have read cheapo china box, is a box to switch the lights on automatically when it gets dark and will switch them on (by applying a ground to the main switch) even when the switch is in the OFF position. As it is powered from the Accessory feed from the ignition switch they will go off, assuming it is dark enough for it to have switched them on, as soon as the ignition is switched off. However, it won't affect the operation of the light switch so if you've switched them on, they will still stay on.

I toyed with the idea of doing something similar but using the output from the sun sensor that is on the top of the dash for the HEVAC but it only really detects sunlight so it would have turned the lights unless there was bright sunshine hitting it. In the UK for most of the time I may as well have just turned Daylight running light on......

Don't mess with anything, just leave it as Mr Land Rover intended. It's meant to be capable of going places lesser vehicles can't go. A lot of the modifications people do may be necessary on something like a Jeep but they aren't on a Land Rover.

Nobody has said to use High, always Low range. Fully agree with you on High being too high. As you come into Dover on the A2, there's quite a steep downhill with a 30 mph limit, big signs telling you to use engine braking and emergency run offs. To keep the speed below 30 with a 3 tonne trailer on the back, I have to drop it down to High 2nd rather than risk cooking the brakes. Amusing to watch the temperature gauge plummet down to the blue bit as the engine is spinning at about 3,000 rpm but not firing too.

I'll echo what the others have said. If you actually look at the gearchange, it shows you little pictures, Low 1st for going downhill, Low 3rd for going up. My preparation for going off road would be much the same as my preparation for doing a 3,000 mile round trip, change the oil and filter, check the coolant level and tyre pressures and set off. If you have Arnott Gen 2 air springs, it might be worth changing them first as they have a reputation for being not that reliable, Gen 3 give the advantage of more travel but only if you change the shocks to allow it, But you don't really need any more travel. Think about it, the lowest point of the car is going to be the diffs and no matter how high you lift the bodywork, the diffs are still going to be the lowest point. Dunlops were designed for the car and work the best. Put the suspension on High if travelling slowly but remember it will automatically drop to standard at over 35 mph to lower the centre of gravity unless you press the inhibit button.

It also depends on how extreme the terrain you are going to be driving on and how far you anticipate going. I would think what you refer to as trails we would call dirt tracks, so nothing to worry about there. You will be astounded at what a P38 is capable of, you'll run out of balls well before it runs out of ability. If you are going with a LR club, chances are it will be you towing others out rather than the other way round. When I did my course at Land Rover it had rained for most of the previous week and the first thing I saw when I got there was a huge, rutted, muddy hill. My thought at the time was maybe in a Defender on big, knobbly, off road tyres but half an hour later I was driving up it in a completely standard Discovery 2 on road tyres. The instructor told us that a Range Rover on air was even more capable than the Disco and that was pretty damned impressive.