Doesn't help you a lot. The mill pool is in the mucky looking bit below the house. As the shot dates back to 2017 and he didn't move in until November last year, you can't see the P38 parked outside or the new road that has been laid from the back lane to the barn (to the right of the house) that has now become a nice big workshop.
Bolt wrote:
OH! as for the French mill?? Let me know, I will fly over to help! Hydro is the BEST form of renewable energy, and a typical 1800's grain mill will give > you about 10kw/hr of energy, with a LOT of torque, so it will not stall! If the power happens during the winter, do the mill wheel generator, and run
electric heat. For FREE!
The mill was originally built in 1737 according to the stone set into the wall. The mill pond is still there but the small river/large stream that is supposed to feed it is dry most of the year. The hole where the paddle would have been is there, complete with big bits of stone with a hole in them for the axle to run through. The paddle would have been horizontal for some strange reason but we've no idea on the sort of design so any advice on that would be welcome. I'm up for it just for the hell of it and to prove it can be done, my mate isn't so sure..... All this is in a lower level which these days is used as a garage at one end and general storage at the other separated by these big bits of stone where the mill workings would have been so the actual house is on the first floor.
Do the lights stay on after the ignition is switched off? I know if you turn the ignition off first and then teh lights you get the headlight delay so you can find your front door but I always thought the lights would time out if you left them on. So I've just been outside and switched mine on without the ignition and, yes, they do come on and don't appear to turn off. You could fit a relay but don't forget that the switch doesn't switch power to the lights but applies a ground to the BeCM which supplies power to the lights. Or use your Nano to turn on Daylight Running Lamps then they will come on, and go off, as soon as the engine is started......
Bolt is your man to answer this one but would you need more than one? The average modern alternator can give 100A so to require more than that would need a pretty big inverter. You'd probably also need a battery to float across the alternator output as I can't see the alternator and/or inverter being that happy driven directly. I've got a kilowatt UPS that had two 12V jelly cells in it and have toyed with the idea of connecting it to a couple of car batteries in series and charging them from a 24V truck alternator. My mate in France has moved into an old water mill that has the mill race still there so we were thinking about making a paddle wheel and driving the alternator from that. Then discovered that the water level has dropped over the years and there's only any flow through it for a couple of months a year.
After Easter? Blimey, that's what I call advance planning.
Not tried to swap a lock so can't help on that but getting the door panel off is simple enough. You'll ideally need a flat trim tool but can get away with a wide screwdriver at a push. Pop the tweeter housing off (just pull) and there's a screw behind that to take out. Take out the screw inside the inside handle and remove the surround (needs a bit of a twist to slide out), then there's two screws under the armrest to come out. Start at the bottom, lever the trim panel away from the door, work your way around until you can just lift it off. You'll probably find that some of the trim clips stay in the door rather than staying on the door trim. Pull them out and fit them back to the trim before you try to put it back
No Chris, I'm afraid I didn't know. The only left hooker I work on is Mymysteri's diesel in France and it started life as a base model, has had the interior from a more upmarket one fitted but still doesn't have cruise control. Makes sense where it is though, complete mirror image to the RHD.
Tracy???? Damn me, I even sent you a radiator.......
But only if you have a laptop with a serial port. If you do, then the cheaper option is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-RANGE-ROVER-MKII-MK2-P38a-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-DIAGNOSTIC-FAULT-CODE-RESET/122229266441, although I've just noticed they do the same cable with a USB adapter here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/fits-Range-Rover-P38-Diagnostic-EAS-Plug-in-Cable/162281460879?hash=item25c8ba948f:g:a1cAAOSwFV9XzSws for the same price.
Problem with making a cable is getting hold of a plug to fit the OBD socket.
No, as long as you don't run it with bits missing, it'll be fine. Even if you do screw it up, get a cable from eBay (like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-FAULT-CODE-RESET-DIAGNOSTIC-TOOL-P38-Range-Rover-Mk-Il/222456546628) which will come with the free RSW software.
I had to change my username over there, but I've updated my signature earlier this evening to give some of them a clue. Never got into reel to reel but run a Technics SL1200Mk2, a NAD CD player and Pure Digital DAB tuner into a NAD 3240 feeding Dual speakers (better known for decks than speakers). We've also got a mini longhair Dachshund, well, at the moment we've got 6, the original one (a dogshow champion in 5 countries), a female one which we were offered and couldn't resist and 4, 10 week old results of having an experienced stud dog and a female...
Still trying to work out who you are though, c'mon, give us more of a clue.
I changed the complete sunroof cassette on the Ascot and the drain tubes were a sloppy fit on the bits they push on to. Small tie wraps held them on securely. You might have the same with the water running down the outside of the tube and dripping off at the lowest point (or dripping off everwhere but the wheel well is the only place you can see it).
There's a guy on here (now) who did a complete nut and bolt resoration on the only LHD Range Rover Linley ever made. There was only ever 6 Linley's made anyway so on the rarity stakes it has to be the most unique P38 on the planet. Unfortunately, the owner is an Irishman living in the US so has a sense of humour. That got him banned from RR.net......
No idea what the trails in Ohio are like but have a look at some of the videos in this thread posted by David (Rutland Rover even though he no longer lives in Rutland) https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1428-went-off-roading-today. A P38 is capable of far more than the driver in most cases, use low range, 3rd going uphill, 1st going down, Drive the rest of the time, be gentle on the throttle and use the brakes as little as possible. I did an off road course at Land Rover at Solihul a few years ago (must have been around 2005?) in a manual, TD5, Discovery 2 and was astounded at what they can do even on road tyres. I asked what was the best for off road, expecting to be told the Defender, but accordng to the instructor a Range Rover on EAS will go anywhere most others can't.
Get lots of photos or video and post up on here.
For a short time after Gilbertd initially got banned, I was on there as Imonlyaguest (being slightly tongue in cheek) but when I forgot the password I discovered I'd used an email address that had since been turned off so couldn't use the, I forgot my password option, as it sent the reset info to an account I no longer had. I only registered that to see if I could as RRToadhall told me that my IP address had been logged so I wouldn't be able to register a different name. Knowing that all my IP address would tell him was that I was registering from a BT Internet account somewhere in the East of England, I let him think I had gone. After I lost Imonlyaguest, I registered as Richard_G instead and have been using that ever since on there but Gilbertd everywhere else. Oddly, I received PM's from a number of people that realised it was the same person, I mean, there aren't that many people in the East of England with an ex-police P38 who regularly drives it across Europe and writes in my, slightly sarcastic, style. If RRTH ever worked it out for himself, he never said anything (but he's probably too thick). The names come from being Richard but known as Dick at work, to the extent that our IT department gave me Gilbertd as my log in on our internal system.
This is part of the reason I'm having constant digs at them at the moment. I honestly don't care if RR.net folds even if losing the content generated by John Brabyn and others will be a great loss (although we do have it still courtesy of Wayback), but I'm really hoping they adopt my suggested wording for the site introduction. It'll be amusing to know they are using wording suggested by someone they banned for life......
At the end of the day, there aren't many jobs on a P38 I haven't had to do at some time or another so they, or at least some of the members, need me and my knowledge based on experience more than I need them.
As it was the RH head you had off I assumed you hadn't touched the connector behind the LH head. That one is often forgotten about but it's pretty damned important.
Bolt wrote:
Aww, come on.
The dead giveaway was the "Recently cleaned cloth interior"
Yeah, but I put that about a year and 22,000 miles ago, I suppose it's about time I should do it again.....
Less of the Richard_G please, I only ever used that on RR.net as they banned Gilbertd for life.....
I suppose they are hobby cars in a way, you ideally need to be able to work on them yourself and keep on top of things. Then they become less of a hobby and more of a car you can use. I certainly use mine, everyday car (just got back from doing the weekly food shop) and it's been to Latvia and the south of France and back in the last couple of months too. My MoT (the annual safety test we have in the UK) is due at the end of the month so I had a good look around it last weekend. I've got a rear axle oil seal to replace but that was all I could find. Not bad for a 4.0 litre with 380,800 miles on the clock.
He's never posted though and there was some discussion if it really was him or just somebody using his name. But for a while it did seem pretty obvious he was keeping an eye on what was being said here.