I'd be inclined to dump a load of the cleaning stuff down each of the pollen filter holes then poke the Prog button. That will close the recirculate flaps and put it on max heat with both blowers on flat out. Can't do any harm and may sort it. Extra heat may have caused something to start to cook but I can't see it really, it'll never get hot enough to start to melt any of the plastic. Sure you haven't got a dead mouse in there?
That Connects2 unit looks a bit odd to me, but it looks like it uses ISO back to back plugs to go in between the car loom and the head unit. Not sure how well it will work with the DSP system as that doesn't use all the speaker outputs so it will be trying to intercept something that isn't there. That's the same arrangement as something like a Parrot hands free kit uses but it only disconnects the signal from the head unit and injects audio from the hands free kit directly into the speaker feeds. Give it a go though and see how you get on.
The cheaper Grom that Bolt mentioned is probably this one https://gromaudio.co.uk/products/grom-aux3-aux-input-iphone-ipod-mp3-car-kit-plus-charging/rover-auxiliary-adapter-kit.html. Fairly simple, it just gives you a line in input instead of the CD changer that you can use with your phone, an mp3 player or whatever.
Although if the AC drain is blocked you usually get a puddle of water in the passenger footwell.
Your only option with the Alpine and DSP system is the Grom BT3 unit. According to their website (https://gromaudio.co.uk/products/bluetooth-hands-free-and-a2dp-car-kits/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-678.html#Description) it doesn't work with cars fitted with the sat nav although Mark (Orangebean) successfully fitted one to his Vogue SE. At the time we couldn't work out what difference the sat nav would make and suspect that as it is an add on unit it may not work with all cars fitted with sat nav. Not cheap but if you want to retain the original head unit but add Bluetooth and a Line In, it's a good option. You do lose the CD changer though.
Contact Clarion at http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Repair.html, they will refurbish the unit and remove the need for the code. While they are at it they will add a line in cable too. As long as the display is OK (as they no longer have stocks of replacement display modules) the turn around is very quick and cheap. The original Clarion gives very good sound quality and with the line in you can either use it to plug in an external source (or phone) or use it to plug in a Bluetooth module so you can connect anything. Unlike the later Alpine and DSP amp, the Clarion is repairable.
I've only once gapped the BPR6ES plugs down and it seemed to make no difference whatsoever so I've just left them as they are. If the ignition system is designed for plugs with a 1.1mm gap (as the original recommended Champions had), it shouldn't do any harm at all. I ran a set of the Iridium BPR6EiX for around 40,000 miles up until the engine came out to go to V8 Dev. I didn't have any to put back in and my local factor has to order them in for me but keeps the nickel ones on the shelf, so at £1.99 each, I've been using them ever since. At least with changing them every 10,000 miles, there's less chance of them seizing in.
Haven't got the dog guard but got the brackets fitted, I'll get a couple of photos when I venture outside in the frost.
A lot of the limited editions were registered as standard HSE Auto rather than what they actually were which makes it that much more difficult to see how many there are left. What's wrong with the rear number plate? Looks standard size to me.
Don't get the LPG plugs, if you do want something that will last a lifetime (with the sort of mileage you do) get the Iridium equivalent, BKR6EIX-11. Should be good for about 40,000 miles (which is only 2 years for me).
Have you got the smaller holes that some later Thor cars have? Where you can't fit BPR6ES plugs because the hex is too large? If I remember right, the late Orangebean had one hole that was smaller and Rutland Rover had to get the alternative PFR6N-11 with the smaller hex.
Yes. Get an old plug and use a hacksaw or thin cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a slot along the length so it becomes a sort of crude tap. Run that down the thread to clean it out. Spin the engine over to blow any crud out and then carefully put the new plug in. I always put a smear of graphite grease on the plug threads to help them go in nice and easily and to stop them welding themselves in. If you don't have graphite grease, Copaslip is almost as good. Don't go all gorilla when you do it up or you could end up with no thread at all but if you read the instructions for putting plugs in (which nobody ever does) they don't need to be ridiculously tight anyway. Worst case, one day you will be driving along and the car will suddenly drop to 7 cylinders, sound like a traction engine and you'll find the plug has made a bid for freedom and is dangling on the end of the HT lead. I've only ever known it happen once and that was after a plug thread had been completely stripped so the plug could only be done up finger tight anyway (and it was on a Vauxhall).
Very nice, only needs the Gen 2s swapping for Dunlops and it would be near perfect.
GEMS is dead easy as the wires go straight in the top. On a Thor the coils are hidden down the back so nothing like as simple to get to.
Hasn't her indoors got small hands and a pair of Marigolds?
One of the diodes has gone open circuit in the alternator. Alternator generates 3 phase AC which is then rectified by the diode pack. With one down only two phases are being rectified so it shows as the pulsating lights. Better that way than when one goes short circuit as that can flatten your battery in about an hour whenever the car is left.
That'll do it, although is probably a bit overkill. One of these would do nicely https://eleshop.eu/rf-explorer-wsub1g.html. Some bright spark thought they would be useful for us but got this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spectrum-Analyser-RF-Explorer-Combo-silver/dp/B00ENEH2KA. Cheap n cheerful but works although totally surplus as we've all got one of these https://www.keysight.com/en/pdx-x201902-pn-N9915A/fieldfox-handheld-microwave-analyzer-9-ghz?cc=GB&lc=eng in the back of the van
Can't see it if you don't have a faceache account.
It's actually CO2 emissions OR engine size depending on how old it is (see https://www.carzone.ie/news/motoringadvice/Motor-and-Road-Tax-Prices-Ireland-2019-1437.html). Still €1809 (or £1546 at today's exchange rate) though.
I've looked into electric vans for our fleet replacement at work. Despite manufacturers claims on range, once loaded and driven under anything other than perfect conditions, you're looking at 100 miles max. With 30 of us to cover the country, nobody does a mileage that low and the other problem is that as we all take the vehicles home and abandon them wherever there is space, how do we charge them overnight and then how does the employee claim back the cost of electricity from the company?
As we eventually discovered with mine when it was being hit by a faulty 433 MHz wireless central heating thermostat sending bursts of random data every 15 seconds, that bought on the IGNITION TAMPER warning and I suspect you jumping the starter caused the ALARM TAMPER one too. Next time you are at the flat, take a receiver and see what is on 433.95 or thereabouts in the area.
Certainly sounds like that is Gordon's problem. No Check Engine light, no crank but no immobilised message or request for the EKA.