Clive603 wrote:
why do they call it the Range Rover Sport rather than Discovery Sport?
Because they called another one the Discovery Sport and market it as the replacement for the Freelander when really the Range Rover Evoque is just a Land Rover Freelander 3. Who knows what their current range line up is about. Seems to me they've got far too many models all going for the same market.
From the air spring on the front, the wishbone suspension and the separate chassis, my guess would be either an L322 or a Disco 3 or 4, most likely a Disco.
Highly unlikely it's going to be the viscous coupling. You've not done anything to cause it to fail and even when seized they don't make a noise, they just make the car hop sideways on full lock. Swapping the complete axle and new UJs should change whatever it is that is making the noise.
I was thinking along the same lines as oilmagnet, tyre bulge or something like that. Do you feel anything through the steering?
Lpgc wrote:
The Caravelle and Bentley are both narrow angle V engines and both a pita.
They will be, the Bentley W12 is basically a pair of VR6 engines using a common crank.
Mine came from Maltings too but the label said AllMakes. Decent quality and fitted well.
14.7V seems a bit on the high side. Early cars had a different alternator that charged at around 13.8V but later cars were fitted with batteries with a higher Calcium content that can withstand a higher charge voltage so the alternator fitted to later cars tend to regulate at around 14.2V. The small brown/yellow wire is simply a charge sense so anything over battery voltage is normal and should be recognised as the alternator charging. Might be nothing more serious than the connectors to the BeCM needing taking off and given a squirt of contact cleaner.
The SRS light is an odd one. On a pre-99 car any fault on the SRS system will bring on the light but normally it will stay on until reset with diagnostics rather than go off once the fault clears. It is only the later cars where it goes off once the fault is cleared.
In that case it would start 42D. No doubt Chris will tell us what is on his replacement engine.
Strange. Engine number would normally be stamped in the top of the block, next to where the dipstick tube goes in. Yours, being a 4.6, would normally be in the format 46DxxxxxxA and would probably also have 9.35:1, the compression ratio, stamped above it.
Is it a replacement engine or is that an odd number as the CVC cars were pre-production models? I know Chris No10 has a replacement engine but the number is a completely different format to yours.
I think it's more a case of not using proper rubber these days. A couple of years ago I replaced the steering arm with a genuine Lemforder and by the following MoT the boots were splitting. They seem more like vinyl than rubber.
Shouldn't be too difficult to get hold of a replacement air filter housing but you should be able to get rid of the rats easily enough too. Just start the engine and revs the nuts off it, that should suck them into the intake........
Available but around £40 each, breakers if you can find them......
My filler is the normal way round with the pins horizontal but it isn't a problem. No matter which way the pins are the actual nozzle can swivel anyway. When filling from the drivers side I just put the nozzle on upside down so it, and the hose, go over the top of the trailer hitch. Worst ones are Italian cup fillers with short hoses when you can't let the nozzle hang straight downwards as they will often not seal properly with the weight of the nozzle so you end up holding the hose to take the weight off the filler with one hand while pressing the button with the other. Doesn't happen often though as most Continental pumps have very long hoses although I did find one in Germany last weekend with a hose only 2m long (and a warning on the pump telling you not to try to stretch it....).
I've just uploaded Microcat 2009 iso file along with images of the 3 RAVE CD's, (L322, P38 and Defender), (Discovery 1, Freelander 1 and Range Rover Classic) and (Discovery 2, Freelander 2001 on and all TSBs for all models up to 2005).
Arms themselves are composite but the ends are steel. I've removed a rear axle which involved taking them off, or at least that's what I thought. The was no way I could undo the bolts securing the front or the arms to the car. I even tried putting my trolley jack under the end of a breaker bar and jacking up on it. All that did was lift the whole car! If the car was on a lift so a really big breaker bar could be used, I suspect they could be undone but not with the car on the ground. I ended up disconnecting the axle from the trailing arms and leaving them attached to the car.
Lpgc wrote:
Potential inconvenience with the filler fitted so close to the towball if you do a lot of towing though?
Bearing in mind that I probably fill up just as often with a trailer on as not, nope, never had a problem with any filler, Dvissier, Gasguard, various continental Italian cup fillers (there's 2 or 3 different ones) and Acme. As long as the trailer is straight or off to the right, access is simple.
They don't last long enough to get them nicked, we all sit them on the back bumper while filling and forget to put them back on.
OK unless you have the factory fit towbar like this
The ones I've got are All Ride although I'm pretty sure a couple I bought previously were in the same packaging and they fitted fine.
Both my remaining two have a round filler in the space where the second trailer socket would be if they had twin electrics. I've bought caps from eBay in the past and got decent ones, it just depends on which ones you get. Unfortunately price doesn't show good ones from crap.