Actually, that tyre looked much the same at the summer camp. Have a look here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1254-radius-arm-bushes-and-possible-meet?page=6 and if you look at the pictures I took, right click on them, select View Image and then click on the image to zoom in. So your dodgy radius arm bushes could have been the cause. If it was, swapping the wheels around should make it track true now they've been changed.
and get the tracking checked. It's actually set for very slight toe out (0 degrees 5 minutes to 0 degrees 15 minutes) so if someone has set it to parallel then it is toeing in slightly.
That would work, yes.
The wear on the tyre will cause more drag on that one so it will drift to the left. You can't have more toe in on one side than the other or you would simply have to steer more to the right to keep it straight so the toe in on both sides is the same. That tyre is still legal so I'd be inclined to swap them front to rear (or even diagonally if they aren't directional) to even the wear up and stop it reaching the point where it is no longer legal while you investigate the cause. I'm surprised you seem to have as many worn bits as you have. You car is one of the very last so I doubt it has done any huge mileage compared with some (mine for instance), my ball joints were replaced at around 320,000.
The excuse was that acceleration uses more fuel than driving at a constant speed. So why use fuel getting up to speed only to slow down a couple of hundred yards later.......
If both fronts are the same, it's caused by too much toe in, if it is only the nearside you need to slow down a bit more for roundabouts. Seriously, one of our company vehicles was going through nearside front tyres at a ridiculous rate but it was the one used by the person that covered Milton Keynes and not bothering to slow down for the hundreds or roundabouts was what had caused it.
That's right. Where the original bushes are the width of the arm with the two ends of the centre bush sticking out, the poly bushes are mushroom shaped. They come in 3 pieces, the two mushroom shaped poly bits that you push in from either side and the centre bush that you shove through the middle. So there is no gap between the inside of the mounting plate and the end of the bush to get a hacksaw in. An oxy torch would probably work nicely as they do seem to melt fairly easily so if you melted the mushroom head off, then you could get in there (but there's not mush room.....).
Yes. Set the meter on the Ohms range and the hotter it gets the lower the resistance. Hence it will read very low when open circuit (infinitely high resistance) and very hot when short circuit (very low resistance).
Undo the two bolts on each side that hold the anti-roll bar bushes to the axle so that can swing down out of the way. You also need to undo the steering link from the offside so that is out of the way too. Impact wrench should shock them free, Rutland's all came out without a problem it was just one of mine that was seized in. We used an angle grinder to cut the head off then Marty's air chisel shocked it out. Don't forget to disconnect the height sensor links too.
If you've got the thermistor, why not just try poking the wires into the plug and tie wrapping the naked sensor to the pipe? That will at least tell you if it is a sensor or wiring problem.
Found this place, http://www.silex.co.uk/shop/silicone-braided-hose/silicone-braided-hose-70%C2%B0-shore-red-outer/c-24/c-77/p-699. Not sure if it's the same hose or if they have it in stock, but it's an alternative to ASH.
The missing button is part of the surround for the window pack switches, so you'd need a complete surround although usually they are sold complete with the switchpack.
DSP, door amps or straight to the speakers? If DSP it could be the amp in the back dying,
Lots of other things go through that footwell connector too. I've cut mine out and soldered and heatshrinked jumper wires in place. The one in the left footwell also suffers and carries the signals between the EAS ECU and the rocker switch and display. It's a fiddly job as there isn't a lot of slack on the cables but definitely worth doing.
Mine can't have been in there for more than 2 years and one bolt was still seized solid. I don't think copperslip is as good as it used to be either so I gave all my bolts a good slobbering of graphite grease when putting them back in. I use it on spark plug threads too on anything with alloy heads, I've come across far too many people that have sheared plugs off on other cars with platinum plugs that are left in there for 60k miles.
The compressor open circuit fault can be caused by too large an air gap on the compressor clutch. It should be between 18 and 30 thou (the lower the better) or the combined resistance in the various connectors between the HEVAC and the clutch itself means that the reduced voltage isn't enough to pull it in. It gets worse the higher the temperature too, mine would work fine up to an ambient temperature of around 23 degrees but at anything higher it wouldn't. Easy test for that is to wait until it should be pulling in and tap the clutch with a screwdriver handle. If it clicks in and stays in, then you need to take a shim or two out from behind the front of the clutch to get the air gap back in limits. However, that does mean you need to get AC grant to show Yes. The fact that you have had it working last year means you haven't made the mistake my mate did when he first got his P38 and assumed the light on the AC button had to be on for the AC to work and that a button marked AC OFF really did turn the AC off......
Heater core temp reading -20 may be why it isn't causing the AC grant to change to Yes as it is assuming that with air that cold you don't need the AC on as well. When we did Rick's (rcutler) O rings and checked it before putting everything back together, the heater core was showing -20 but was intermittent. Unplugging it and plugging it back in seemed to sort it and it started reading correctly so a bit of contact cleaner spray may be all that is needed. A couple of hours later we had the very same thing on Rutland's car too after changing his O rings so it does look like it is a connector that doesn't like being disturbed.
My Nano will not connect to the HEVAC first time but will if I come right out and go back in again, unless I've been into the ABS first, then it needs to be shut down and re-booted before it will connect to anything.
You can see the flexi one from the reservoir, the one with the cloth braided cover. That's the low pressure side so can be easily replaced but it's the other one that is a high pressure line (about 15 bar if I remember right) which needs to be replaced with the proper thing. You can't just bung a bit of pipe in with a couple of jubilee clips. It has metal ends to it with a flexi section in the middle and part number is ANR3321 (LHD) or ANR3322 (RHD).
That is the pressure accumulator for the brakes. It has two pipes, a flexible one from the brake reservoir and another high pressure one to the ABS modulator. For a man that lives on the top of a mountain, a problem there could be, errm, interesting. Stopping a P38 with no power braking needs both feet on the pedal on the flat.....
Just realised, it was you that had all sorts of grief with the XYZ switch. It was me using Richard_G that helped you with that one.