As the owners seem to have completely screwed up what was arguably the most useful Range Rover site available, we suddenly seem to be getting a few new members appearing on here. So first of all, welcome one and all. You may find this forum a little different. You won't constantly get told to do a search or read RAVE, you'll get help from people who have been there and done it. There is no profanity filter either so unless you join and immediately start posting crap in Cyrillic with links to dodgy download sites, your posts won't get deleted and that is about the only reason anyone will be banned too. If a thread wanders off topic, who cares? We don't, if the original question has been answered, then so what if the topic wanders? If it hasn't, somebody will drag it back on topic sooner or later.

You may also find quite a few familiar names too. There's a number that were banned for one reason or another from RR.net, I used to use this username there until I got a lifetime ban for a reason I never did find out (so re-registered as Richard_G instead) and others have been spending time on both sites.

The clue is in the URL, this is a virtual pub. You wander in, sit down and have a natter with a bunch of mates.

Probably because it's using forum software rather than social media software. It might be possible but only Gordon would know that as he built it. As for smileys, presumably you can if you know the code for them but I found it bloody annoying on RR.net if you put P38 in brackets so it turned the 8) into a smiley whether you wanted it to or not

If changing the oil brings the pressure back up then there seems little point in spending £150 on getting someone to check the bearings only to find maybe slight wear but nothing worth worrying about.

+1, if they'd phoned you and said it was overheating and needed a new water pump and you said well you better do it then, they can charge you. If however you took it in with a running problem and they told you it was overheating and needed a new water pump but you didn't tell then to do it, they can't charge you.

No, it hasn't gone, it's been moved to the Community Help thread, along with my list of alternative forums.

gordonjcp wrote:

In an unguarded moment you might catch me wondering aloud about how to scale FlaskBB out.

Don't you bloody dare, just leave it as it is.

@Bolt, your thread has now miraculously disappeared. I continued our Conversation but I suspect you may have been banned so won't get to see it anyway.

That is something I can't work out. To me the idea of a forum is where you ask questions about things you don't understand, whether it is how to operate something or how to repair something. So why would the owner of a brand new L405, Velar, etc need to use a forum, he's got an owners handbook to find out how to operate it and the supplying dealer to fix it if anything needs fixing?

But surely, as it is no longer on RR.net, they can't claim it's copyright as they've binned it. It's much the same as digging through someones dustbin (although I'm pretty sure that's illegal too).....

Microcat doesn't even show the valet key, just the fobs but as Mark says, it should be possible to cut them from the lock bar code.

For how long is that going to be available?

I used a 3.8 drive socket and ratchet with an extension on the ratchet handle.

For the one I had to cut, I used a 1mm thick cutting blade and cut through the nut along the length of the bolt. That way you do minimal damage to the bolt but the nut comes off in two pieces.

When I took mine off I got all bar one out with a breaker bar. The last one seccumbed to the angle grinder......

Errm, fairly important as there's nothing else to support it......

You're right, clicking on my bookmarked link to the P38 Common Issues page takes me to the main page on the new site, as does any other useful pages. Years and years of useful information on how to do fusebox repairs, building the attenuators for fitting an aftermarket stereo, shortcuts to changing blend motors, heater O rings, etc, all bookmarked and now all going to the forum front page.

I found posting early in the morning here meant that RRTH was in bed so posts would at least exist for a few hours......

I'll be properly retired in 7 months and 28 days (not that I'm counting of course) but I'll probably be far too busy doing the things I don't have time to do now to spend time here then.

The power on the Purple wire comes from F15 in the BeCM but as it doesn't have a BeCM any longer, that would be pin 17 on C325 (18 way grey on the front of the BeCM). The Green/Red wire ties into the Green/Red that connects between the RH front door latch and the door outstation. If the RH front door still has a latch in it and the door is unlocked, there should be a ground on the Green/Red anyway from the door latch. Putting power on the Purple wire should make the pushbutton work as intended.

OK, so I've just put my cheapo charging hose with a built in pressure gauge on it. Connected to the low pressure side I've got 4 bar with engine running but the compressor not engaged, with compressor clutch engaged at idle it drops to 3 bar (which, the colour coded scale on the gauge says, Full) and if I rev the engine up to 2,000 rpm it drops further down to around 1.5 bar. Is that about right?

If he can get into the boot, behind the RH panel there's a black 12 way connector (not all ways are used though). On one side the wires are coloured but on the other side every wire is white. The white wires are the ones that go into the tailgate (so if anyone ever gets access to the wires they can't easily identify which wire does what to power the hatch solenoid). If he applies 12V to the white wire that is on pin 11 (fed with a Purple wire) and grounds the white wire on pin 10 (fed with a Green/Red wire) that will energise the tailgate release solenoid. It'll work the same as the pushbutton, so first timje will release the upper tailgate, second time the lower.

I bet I wouldn't be if he realised he banned my other username for life. At least when eBay and Gmail did their revamps, they give the option to switch to 'Classic' view.

Spare time? That's what comes of working from home a couple of days a week and sitting here with two laptops.

I don't know if it will ever forget, it doesn't seem to forget anything else. My throttle butterfly was intermittently sticking so it would idle at around 1,000 rpm and that made the downshifts very noticeable so I suspect yours is doing something similar. If it flags the error before you even start the engine that would suggest a wiring problem somewhere. May be nothing more than a connection you've had off needing a squirt of contact cleaner. Just a case of working out which one.....

0.62V is what mine shows so it's about spot on (or mine is wrong too), although that doesn't correlate with your throttle angle data being wrong. Unless it is staying at 0.6V and not going up as you open the throttle.