The other thing to check is to see if it still pressurises when running on petrol. An internal leak in the LPG reducer can allow LPG into the coolant circuit and pressurise it. Not only that, but it will also fail a combustion gas check as it will detect LPG, a hydrocarbon, as combustion gases.
However, orange stained plugs does suggest coolant getting into the combustion chambers. If it is cylinders at the ends of the heads (cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8) then it could be a leak from the coolant passages into the cylinders through the head gaskets but if it is in central cylinders, it can't be as there are no coolant passages next to them. I agree that slipped liners seem more common in the US than here, and the BS from the likes of RPi make it seem far more common than it actually is, but it only takes one serious overheat to cause a leak. The liners don't necessarily slip, when they do you can hear them moving up and down with the piston, but a slight weep between the liner and block will cause it. While it isn't a permanent fix, Water Glass will cure that and keep you going for another couple of years. Plenty of time to source another engine. I bought one for another owner from East Coast Range Rovers, a low mileage '98 4.6, for around £500 including delivery. That came complete with the engine wiring loom so just needed plugging in once fitted. The only difference, as it was going in a '97, was the plugs for the lambda sensors were different so had to be changed.
Hmm, my daughter has a Toyota and there's a number of jobs I've got to do on that now mine is back together.....
If it is over pressurising that will put extra strain on any weak points. It will pressurise with thermal expansion but, without anywhere for the pressure to escape, then once cold there should be no more pressure in there. If you have leaks around a liner or two, that will make the plugs go orange and you have two options, top hat liners or water glass (Sodium Silicate, the active ingredient in Steel Seal).
Water in the footwells is usually rainwater leaking in either through the pollen filter housings or through the screw holes where the plastic plenum is attached to the bulkhead. Take the screws out, lift it up a bit so you can squirt some RTV under the plenum and refit it with new screws. A leak into the boot is either through the rear light gaskets or the tailgate seal.
After a delay of a day I'm finishing off putting my car back together after changing the head gaskets. Noticed that the breather hose on the RH rocker cover to plenum was slightly split (or it was probably weak and split when I pulled it off). Cheap enough from Island 4x4 (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rocker-cover-breather-pipe-plenium-llh500090-err5038-p-5924.html) at under £2 but with postage that would probably put it up to nearer a tenner. Figured I may as well get one from LR as I would be able to order it from my local main agent and pick it up the next day, so checked their site. In stock and available, no problem, then I saw the price https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/llh500090-hose-assembly-breather.html?code=60977 for a 6 inch long pipe?????
Probably. As the seats are manual there's no motors under there so that gives a bit more space. The seat is height adjustable with a lever at the side and I have it quite high so that gives me a bit more space too.
On other matters, decided to have both heads off so now they are off, they've been dropped off to be skimmed and should be ready to pick up lunchtime tomorrow. LH head gasket (and head) was fine but there were some marks on the RH one where the fire rings sit even after I'd cleaned it up with 800 grit so figured that for £35 a head I may as well get them done. Next day delivery on the gaskets turned out to not be next day but the day after so I couldn't start putting it back together anyway. RH exhaust manifold put up a fight so decided to take the head off with it still attached which makes it a bit awkward (but not as awkward as getting to that lower right manifold bolt!) as it is heavier and not balanced.
Yes, ignition needs to be on for all systems except the BeCM where it needs to be off. It's usually the HEVAC that puts up a bit of a fight connecting, EAS is usually OK. Make sure the OBD socket isn't corroded. EAS uses pins 11 and 12 which aren't used by any of the other systems.
All 4 lights means it has detected a fault. With the Nanocom, go into EAS, go to Faults, read what the faults are saying then click on clear faults and come back out of it. That will reset the fault so it should start working normally again. Once you know what caused the fault, then it can be investigated.
You were lucky with that Nigel. I went through 3 front number plates in a year on one of my company vehicles due to pheasants that didn't know the green cross code. Although I've just realised the French plates are aluminium so a bit stronger than our plastic ones.
As for what have you done today, it's more a case of what am I about to do. Noticed a ticking noise under acceleration a couple of days ago. Initially thought it was a cracked RH exhaust manifold so been outside this morning and pulled the heatshield away from it (an advantage of only putting 3 bolts in to hold it in place last time it was off). No sign of any cracks in the manifold but by using a bit of tube to identify where it is going chuff, chuff, chuff from and pulling the plug lead off to confirm it, number 4 is blowing out the side of the block from the head gasket. Replacement gasket, valley gasket and seals ordered on next day delivery so as soon as I've had some lunch, I'll be out there pulling the RH cylinder head off.
That's good news anyway but they don't normally just die, something must have killed it. What's the EAS problem?
leolito wrote:
Wow that sub idea is slick! Saves space and tidies up the entire setup! Me like! Compliments!
I've got a very similar sub only mine sits on top of the BeCM under the driver's seat......
Dirty bulbholder? Dodgy connection to the cluster (assuming rear fog light)?
The ETM is obviously wrong then. For both early and late it shows 6 wires to the non-memory mirrors, a pair for the heater and a pair each for the two motors. I wonder what the other two do?
Fuse 1 supplies a constant 12V to the window switch panel and it also supplies the instruments, so disconnecting that will cause the trip to reset. There doesn't appear to be any connection with the interior lights though but checking for corrosion on fuse 1 pins would be a good place to start.
8 pin? Memory mirrors have 10 pins, no memory only have 6. My observation is that 20 year old worn plastic gears are probably still stronger than brand new Chinese ones.....
It wasn't me that posted the tests but Marty. Check that you have 12V at the input to the voltage regulator and 5V at the output. I've seen mention of the 5V rail being accidentally shorted to ground which takes out the regulator.
I tried converting it to png, gif and changing the file extension from jpg to jpeg, uploaded all variants to imgur and tried to link to them but every time it told me it wasn't an accepted format.
URL for the old one is https://i.imgur.com/wsu0e4s.jpg and the image properties are:
150x107 pixels
72 pixels per inch
Pixel Depth/Colours 24/16 million
URL for the new one is https://i.imgur.com/uYsXAXR.jpg (so exactly the same format) and the image properties are exactly the same. If I change the file extension from jpg to jpeg, when uploaded to imgur, it reverts back to jpg.
I also sent Gordon this
so he can update the banner on the site when he gets around to it.
But all of this has nothing to do with the PCRV......
Tried that, didn't work.....
Bolt wrote:
I have a couple of photos of the new defective part, and have failed to be able to attach them....
I know there is a trick to it.....Post them somewhere and link to them??
Although some have managed to link to pictures on Google drive, I've never managed to get it to work so use Imgur, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur
I'm having a problem at the moment trying to update my avatar from this
to this
But the site keeps telling me it can only accept jpg, gif or png and it is a jpg with the same colour depth and size as the previous one?
Our local amateur radio club banned me and a colleague from entering the fox hunts as they claimed we had an unfair advantage. Admittedly, we did win it 4 years running..... When dealing with hams I would often get asked if I was an amateur myself. My answer to that was, although I hold an amateur licence, I'm a professional as I get paid for it. Not active though I will admit as after almost 50 years playing with radio during work time, the last thing I wanted to do was play with radio in my own time.
Ooh, now into a subject I know a lot about as RF was work until I retired. Radio transmissions don't stop when they reach a National border so have to be coordinated. Hence the way the radio spectrum is used in the UK has to be coordinated with western Europe, which has to be coordinated with Eastern Europe and so on. The US only has land borders with Canada, who have had to accept the same spectrum allocations as the US, and Mexico that they don't care about. Hence the use of the radio spectrum in the US is totally different to the rest of the world. So they chose to use 315MHz, which was unused in the US but is in the military air band in the rest of the world. Their mobile phone bands are different to the rest of the world and the frequency used by their DECT cordless telephones, wireless headsets, baby alarms, etc are in the band used in Europe by 3 as a mobile uplink frequency. So anyone using US spec equipment in Europe can completely kill a local mobile phone site. I used to spend many a happy hour tracing these......
Going back to when RF was initially used for car security, it was different in just about every country, UK used 418MHZ and there were 3 other frequencies used in Europe alone causing a lot of grief for the motor manufacturers. So, CEPT (Committee European Postes and Telecommunications) proposed a standardised frequency for Europe of 433.8-439MHz for momentarily operated short range devices. There was one slight problem with this as it is within the amateur 70cms allocation of 430 - 440MHz but the primary user of the band is the MoD so the hams had to put up with it. What made it worse was that while amateur repeaters in that part of the band all use a 1.6MHz duplex split, in the UK it is base Tx low and mobile Tx high but in Europe it is the other way round. So the output of the base transmitter, usually running 25W, is on 433.0-433.375 with the input 1.6MHz higher up the band compared with Europe where the base Tx is upwards of 434.6. So in Europe the problem we suffered here doesn't happen as the base transmitters are far enough away to not really cause a problem. Initially, my employers at the time, the Radiocommunications Agency, mandated that these frequencies could only be used for RAKE (Remote Access Keyless Entry) devices but CEPT got a bit offended by this and insisted that it must be allowed for all short range devices, hence wireless doorbells, burglar alarms, remote controls, kids toys and numerous other devices all using the same bit of spectrum. So while these other devices shouldn't cause problems, as they are not something that will transmit permanently and are restricted to the same power outputs as the car keyfob, parking next to a site that happens to have a 70cms amateur repeater on it won't be a problem in Europe but will be a big problem here. Car manufacturers eventually moved to a dedicated part of the 868MHz band and in the last couple of years a lot, including Land Rover, have moved over to a far more secure spread spectrum system.
Most video relay stuff operated in a dedicated 10MHz chunk centred on 1394MHz but as 10MHz isn't wide enough for analogue video, it wasn't used much so 2400-2480MHz is used instead for video senders even though it is also used by WiFi. There was some illegal Chinese stuff that found its way here that operated in the 10GHz band but that was a bit of a problem as it is used for aero navigation. Another one that I spent more happy hours tracing.