This is on the Ascot, my spare car that gets very little use. It's a '96, with 180k on the clock. I've had it about 5 years or so and have not touched them and from the amount of work I had to do on it when I first got it, they wouldn't have been changed for some time before as nothing else had been done on it. I bought it to sort out the problems and sell it on but shortly after getting it all done, we had need for a second large car so my missus used it for a while and we realised that it was too useful to have it for when it was needed so have kept it. Most of the time it sits there not being used but is kept legal so it can be used as and when needed.

Mine is on it's second set of fronts and third set on the rear. When I bought it in 2010, the rear airsprings were perished and one had burst so I put a pair on it then. The fronts were changed a couple of years later. One of the rears started to leak last year so I bought a complete set, replaced the rears but have yet to get around to fitting the new ones to the front (although they do look a bit perished, aren't leaking yet).

No they aren't and the GEMS ones are NLA. You will see them advertised as correct for GEMS but the centre where the throttle spindle engages is wrong. They look the same but have a D shaped hole (the same as a standard pot) but they should have two lugs that the edges of the throttle spindle bear against.

I can't explain why the idle reference is showing 65280 but can explain why it is idling very high. On initially opening the throttle, the TPS signal causes the ECU to open the idle air valve to raise the revs smoothly rather than relying on the airflow through the throttle butterfly. As you give it more throttle, then the idle air valve has a much lesser effect and the airflow through the butterfly takes over. Almost like the accelerator pump on a old school carb setup. The closed throttle reference (Stored Throttle) is showing as 0.66V but the TPS is sending a voltage of greater than that (0.72V). This makes the ECU think you are opening the throttle slightly so has opened the Idle air valve and raised the idle. If you look you will see that the IAV reading corresponds with the idle speed, 156=2638, 157=2650 and 163=2723. At a normal idle, with a warm engine, the IAV should be at around 25-30.

That is why, after a reset, the stored voltage at idle, matches the actual TPS voltage.

Probably the air spring. I've never changed them and they do look a bit on the perished side so may even be the originals. A number of people have noticed that leaks are more apparent in cold weather but no idea why.

This one enter link description here the EAS system Information document.

Must have been designed by a bloke. It can only do one thing at once.....

Yes it does. That's why it will sometimes run when you have your foot on the brake pedal as that inhibits any movement, but will stop as soon as you take your foot off the brake and it levels. As long as the pressure is within the limits that it doesn't need the compressor to run to top it up, it stays off. If the pressure is low, it will restart as soon as the levelling is completed. .

To add that not only does the BeCM need to be unlocked, you can't add another key from a different car. As soon as you change the BeCm so the new key will work, the original one won't as you can only have one lockset barcode stored. The code for every car is different.

Yes, you will need the green cable and the two software modules if it was previously loaded with the D2 configuration. You won't be able to disable the lost key but you will be able to unsync it. If you disconnect the car battery for a few seconds, you will need to reset the windows and resync your remaining key. That means the lost one will no longer be synced so the remote won't work and even if someone uses it to unlock the car with the key blade, it won't turn the immobiliser off (assuming you locked it with the remaining remote).

Those are where the plate would be attached on a GEMS amd the holes in the bellhousing are threaded. Presumably, as the bolts go through the bellhousing into the sump, the thread needs to be drilled out so the bolts just pass through. Very easy to do with everything in place.

A Nanocom with only GEMS licence will still work on a Thor except it won't have the Wabco D menu for the later ABS and won't connect to the engine. All the other systems, including the BeCM, will still work.

My spare car may not get used, or even started, every couple of months. That is left with the suspension on high and in summer it doesn't drop at all but in winter the front left corner drops noticeably after it has been left for a couple of weeks.

KCR wrote:

Unbelievable knowledge!

Not really, I just looked up the part numbers for the front cover.....

No, you cannot reprogram a key from one car to another, not with Nanocom or even the LR specific Testbook. They are programmed to the car's VIN when produced and that can't be changed.

If Passive Immobilisation is enabled in the BeCM, then the immobiliser will kick in if you don't start the car within 30 seconds of unlocking it. There should be a coil around the ignition switch that causes the fob to send the unlock code to the receiver when you put the key in the ignition. However, if you unlock the car, put the key in the ignition (which sends the code) and then don't start the car within 30 seconds, the immobiliser kicks in again resulting in the "Engine Immobilised, Press Remote or Enter Code" message. Simple answer is to go into the BeCM settings with Nanocom and change Immobiliser from Enabled to Disabled. This is the one that many think turns off the immobiliser completely but it doesn't, it just turns off passive immobilisation.

The other one I always change in the BeCM settings, is one marked wiper speed (or wiper delay) and enable that. With that enabled if the wipers are on continuous, they drop down to intermittent when you stop at a set of traffic lights and restart as soon as you hit 2mph.

Although there are different part numbers for the front cover, late GEMS and Thor share the same one, the changover was at the 97-98 change. So that will fit. Not sure what holes you have to drill as the blocks are the same so I would have thought the sumps were interchangeable.

I wondered who would be first, thanks mad-as. Merry Christmas to all and may all your problems be little ones.

Welcome. I also know very little about the diesel, but there are others who will no doubt pop up once they are sober.....

Some people have complained that the very thin seals that go around the base of the solenoid plunger don't fit too well and leak. My experience with them is that they don't leak if you are very careful when fitting them and make sure everything is spotlessly clean. However, there is no reason why they should ever leak in the first place so if you are unsure it's better to leave them alone and not bother replacing them.

Maybe but most of us own the earlier P38 with a ZF gearbox. I'm aware that the GM box fitted to the diesel L322 is only good for about 100k miles (the petrol version had a ZF which goes on forever). I've been speaking to a local owner of a 2006 with a failed gearbox at 115k despite it having been flushed and refilled about 30k miles ago.

Found this which looks to be a good step by step rebuild guide https://www.lrukforums.com/resources/gm-5l40-e-teardown.173/

Bear in mind that sometimes the Nanocom gets its left and right muddled up. I'd unplug the nominated sensor to ensure it detects an open circuit fault on that one.