Grom do a unit that gives you USB, Bluetooth and Line in but at £130 it isn't cheap, even their Line In alone unit is £60. I know the Clarion used in the earlier P38 can be modified very easily to have the line in (done 2 for other people and it does work very well) but not so sure about the Alpine in later cars. Might be that it needs to be done as you did yours by inserting the audio in the line from the CD changer. In theory there'd be nothing to stop you from putting a switch in line to give you the choice between CD and line in.
You can add the line in and then use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Male-AUX-Audio-Plug-to-USB-2-0-A-Female-Jack-OTG-Convertr-Lead-Adapter-BLK/322473958992 but reading the ad it looks like the head unit has to do the decoding so it outputs data rather than audio. The other way of doing it would be to use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Mini-Digital-MP3-Music-Player-LCD-Sn-Metal-Support-32G-MicroSD-Card-TR/142858761854 and a 3.5 to 3.5mm lead to connect the headphones socket on the player to the line in on the stereo.
The original Clarion in the Ascot was dead so I sent it to Clarion for repair, it came back fully working, with the code removed and a line in added. I've plugged my phone in and streamed audio from that and I've got a similar player and that works fine too.
The buttons drive a simple resistive ladder circuit so although you would probably need an adapter to convert the outputs into something an Android unit can understand, yes, they could be used with a bit of effort.
It won't as it only has two outputs, left and right. The front/rear fade and sub was all done in the DSP amp.
If it didn't have the buttons before it is because the radio fitted isn't capable of being controlled by them (and there's probably no connection on the back of the radio for them either). The DSE is the diesel version of the SE spec and my SE doesn't have the buttons, or a radio capable of being controlled by them, either. The Ascot is HSE spec, has the buttons and they work with the original head unit.
BrianH wrote:
7/8/12/13 i would say are to secure the heatshield to the engine/manifold in some way. They look like they should go into the holes shown in the heatshields on 9/14 in the middle of the part, but thats only a guess.
They are. The heatshields are in two halves but are only held in place by those two in the centre, without them they would just rattle about as they only actually touch the manifolds where they wrap around the downpipes.
Most of the discs you find on eBay are just the very same version of RAVE that I have. Originally RAVE came on 3 CD's each covering different models, there's P38, L322 and Defender on one, Discovery 1, Freelander 1 and Range Rover Classic on the second and Disco 2 and Freelander 2 on the third. I've got all 3 if anyone needs them as they are the original UK versions rather than the version that covers all models which is an amalgamation of the US versions. Not that there is that much difference (as LR obviously couldn't be bothered to amend it too much for the US market) but there are a few slight differences.
Adam described his as being 3/8th 16 (tpi I assume) so if that is UNC rather than UNF that it what they will be.
Rimmers are excellent for delivery but I don't use them that often unless it's halfway through the afternoon and I need something for tomorrow. They tend to be a little more expensive than the others and their website doesn't give as much information either. With the others you can put in a part number and it will confirm VIN ranges , LHD or RHD, etc, Rimmers just tells you a price, no details and no indication of the make, it's either genuine or aftermarket. Like you, I'll happily use aftermarket if it is Bearmach or Allmakes and genuine is usually far too expensive to even think about!
Never seen one with a light in the cubby box but you never know. What colour are the wires on the random plug?
4 are the actual bolts that hold the manifold to head and are shown as M8 on Microcat but as Adam found here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1093-helicoil-for-snapped-manifold-bolt they may be M8 on later cars but were UNF on earlier ones. The earlier ones also had a 12mm bi-hex head just to make life difficult. Length is 35mm (or at least that's the length of the threaded bit) and if you intend replacing them, go for Allen bolts instead..
10 and 15 (quite why they are listed twice as the part numbers are the same) are for the heatshield and are little ones (M6, 8mm hex headed and can be an absolute pig to get out as getting to them all isn't easy) and the inner heatshield has small Rivnuts that they screw into.
7, 8, 12 and 13 screw into the manifold. There are two per manifold but different lengths (screwed into the flat plate section between the ports) and have a threaded hole in the end for another small M6 bolts. The picture shows them the opposite way round to everything else as the threaded end screws into the manifold.
No, it's an OBD code reader so will only do diagnostics on stuff that is in the OBD standard which is mainly emissions related. Not even sure why it can read data from the gearbox but it can.
Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, but you ain't going to be retiring on it........
Well damn me, it isn't even though it was a couple of days ago. They only list the Britpart and Reinz ones now.. LRDirect list an Allmakes gasket set and the Elring head gaskets separately, that might be the way to go (or just bite the bullet and get the Reinz set)
Problem with doing stretch bolts up to a certain torque figure is that they stretch so you've no real idea of how much pressure they are putting on the joint face. At least with the studs, you know that what your torque wrench says is what they are done up to. The other advantage is that the thread on the nut end is finer than the (5/8th?) UNC thread in the block so you've got far more control.
This https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/head-gasket-incl-elring-head-gaskets-stc4082el-p-6566.html is what I've always used but Island also do the Reinz kit for the same price as LRDirect and it does say it includes the head gaskets. Might be worth checking with LRDirect to make sure it does, you don't want to get the heads off, open the packet and find you don't have any gaskets. You'll end up with loads of left over seals as the kit can also be used on the earlier 14CUX engine as use in the Classic so you'll get seals that are used on that but not on yours. Always handy to keep hold of them, you never know when you'll need a random seal of some sort (I found a random copper washer that comes in the kit was a perfect fit for a leaking bath tap joint).
Misfire codes are P0300 (multiple misfires) and codes P0301 to P0308 for individual cylinders, however, I don't think GEMS is sufficiently OBD compliant to show them. Bear in mind that compliance didn't become mandatory until 2000 by which time the Bosch engine management had been implemented. So the fact that GEMS gives any codes at all is a bonus, some cars of the same era don't even have a socket to plug a code reader into (anything never intended for the US market where they adopted the standard from 1996) or, if they do, it is a socket unique to that manufacturer and can only be interrogated by manufacturer specific hardware.
Running on 7 is quite noticeable at idle and on pick up but smooths out once the revs get up. The GEMS coils feed two cylinders each so a coil breaking down when it gets hot is another possibility but as well as being down on power, you'd only be running on 6 and I'm sure you would notice the roughness if that was the case.
That's strange. I can open the one Chris posted but not the ARP instructions. On this forum for me links normally open in the same window (which is a bit of a pain as I can end up wandering off on a tangent and losing my way back to the forum) but if I right click the arp link and select open link in another tab, it does but all I get is a blank page. Probably something to do with different browsers, pop up blockers, etc. Firefox V62 on Windows 7 using a popup blocker and Ad blocker too here.
Could have been, they don't like being run low. You have been checking it with the engine running as per the book I hope? Checking it when not running and the level is about 4 inches above the max mark on the dipstick but drops when running.
I had a thought the other day when you said it only did it when very hot. There's the anti pollution thing that dumps excess petrol vapour into the inlet manifold when there's too much pressure in there. On mine, just occasionally maybe once every 3 or 4 months, I can start the car and it idles lumpy and doesn't want to rev. If I leave it idling it will clear after a few seconds or I can switch it off and restart. I've always put this down to excess petrol vapour being dumped into the manifold so that along with a good slug of LPG (as my singlepoint runs on LPG from cold) gives it a very rich mixture. I'm wondering if yours is doing the same when it gets really hot?
The ARP instructions won't open for me but no, they don't torque up anything like the stretch bolts (as they don't stretch). If the engine was out of the car you'd screw the studs into the top of the block then drop the gasket and heads on but with the studs in the block and the engine in the car you don't have enough space to get the heads on. So put the gasket and heads on without the studs in place, screw the studs in using an Allen key in the hex hole in the top (after you've made sure the holes are clear of coolant, oil and muck before putting the heads on), then lube the washers and nuts and torque them down like normal. As the instructions won't open for me, I don't know what torque they recommend. I've seen people talk about 80ft/lb which seems too high for an all alloy engine to me. Ray at V8 Dev told me to use 65ft/lb so that's what I did. 3 stages, 30, 50 and 65.
Not that old and still running, but I'm in Stilton, just south of Peterborough and have a Nanocom. It's got the GEMS licence so can't do anything with the engine on a diesel but will do the SRS and other sub-systems.
Chris, found out what I was doing wrong with my CReader, I was using the driver for a VI and mines a VI+. Tried the correct driver and it updated but doesn't appear any different to before. Doesn't seem to allow it to be used with a computer though unless Brian knows any different..