That's why I checked Microcat as I'm sure some of the bolts on the engine are Imperial sizes. As there's no difference between heads on a 4.0 litre and a 4.6, I can't see the threads being different. However, there's different part numbers for the up to 98 and 99 onwards heads and the threads for the GEMS lifting bracket (which I'm fairly sure are the same thread as the exhaust manifold bolts) are shown as 3/8 UNC compared with M8 for the Thor engine. However, if you are helicoiling the holes, as long as the bolt you put in is the same thread as the helicoil, it isn't going to make any difference. On one engine I worked on the exhaust manifold bolt hole threads were stripped due to the bolts having been cross threaded. I tapped the holes out to M10 and then tapped an M8 thread on a stepped bolt so it became a stud with M10 on one end and M8 on the other. Actually made fitting the manifold easier as a stud held it in place while the bolts were put in.

You get further than I do, mine just comes up with Communications failure even though the green OK is lit and the red spanner flashes, it does nothing. On the Launch website there is a warning about pirated Chinese copies but my view is if it still works does it matter? I've got a Chinese copy of a VagCom unit for VAG group cars and although it comes up with lots of warnings that it is unregistered, it still works. Just got to check that mine still works now having been plugged into the computer or if I've turned it into a brick......

Mine's lasted about 4 years so far so Brian must have just got a duff one. I wasn't even aware it could be plugged into a computer so I've just got mine out of the car and checked, sure enough, there's a USB socket in the bottom under a little flap. I'll have a play with it later and see what it can do.

The graph squidges up so it the switching of the lambda sensors get closer together until it decides you'd never be able to read it so the graph scrolls. It will display the last 10 minutes or so. So if you drive it normally and look at the graphs (the most important thing you are looking for is airflow through the MAF rising with revs and lambdas switching between the limits) then keep driving until it goes sick and have another look. You should be able to see the difference and that will give a clue as to what is going on.

Calculated load value is determined by throttle position, revs and MAF. It is a combination of this and the road speed that the gearbox uses to decide when to change gear. So if you have low revs and high throttle opening, it drops down a gear.

GEMS and Bosch ECUs do the same job in the same way but the Bosch is much later technology. GEMS dates back to the early days of electronic fuel injection and was a joint venture between the French company Sagem and Lucas. It was mainly used on BL vehicles while most others used variants of the Bosch systems. Bosch continued to develop their systems (and supplied more and more different manufacturers) but Lucas decided it wasn't worth updating their system to make it fully OBD compliant. The two systems use the same sensors to do the same jobs but they aren't interchangeable.

He's just clueless but it may have had one of the 8 grand Coscast blocks that RPi were selling. They were cast by Cosworth but were still identical to a standard block, just made with a bit more care than a production block. Only problem was they still used standard liners so despite the claims by RPi, although liners didn't slip they could still leak into the combustion chamber.

I'm just down the road in Stilton? Been there the last couple of years and found so little P38 stuff that I'm not bothering this year.

I was going to reply to the PM but as you've copied and pasted it here, I'll reply in public. Yes, the Creader can connect to both the engine and gearbox ECUs so the first one on the list, with only 4 parameters, is the gearbox ECU. The second one is the engine and it shows most things. Looking at your video it's obvious that you've recently reset the adaptive values. The long term trims are showing 0% so they are back at default but the short term trims are permanently -ve so after a while the long term trims will go slightly -ve so the short terms will flip flop either side of 0%. The lambdas are both switching nicely too so all is running well at that time. One thing to note is that the OBD standard requires a 0-1V lambda output but the GEMS engine uses 5-0V sensors so it converts what is actually happening to something that meets the standard. So when it displays 0V, the sensor is actually outputting 5V (lean) and when it displays 1V the sensor is actually giving 0V (rich). OBD didn't become mandatory in Europe until 2000 by which time the P38 had the Bosch engine management that uses 0-1V sensors anyway, earlier ones had to fudge the figures to keep the Yanks happy (who had to be OBD compliant from 96).

If you select the View Graphic items it allows you to select up to 4 parameters and display them as a graph. If you select the two lambda sensor outputs, the air flow through the MAF sensor and the revs, you can then drive it and see what the lambda outputs do when it goes all sick and flat. Then at least we'll know whether it is going rich or lean.

Because some people just do not realise what they have. He should have stuck with some dodgy old diesel Discovery than butcher that.

If I was going to buy brake hoses, I'd go for Goodrich braided ones rather than rubber, especially not from Britpart. See https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings who also do complete kits but although they list Land Rover don't list a set for the P38. Might be worth giving them a call though. I've used them in the past on more obscure vehicles and they are very good (and quick).

Definitely other lubrication but a bit more than just oil changes. Other than a complete engine and gearbox change, there isn't much we haven't done in the last couple of years as Nick's bloodied legs will testify.

Weekend of the 22nd is a definite no for me, daughter's wedding is likely to take priority......

That's why. The Creader is just a generic OBD reader for reading engine codes, the EAS V4 fills in the gaps for most of the subsystems on the P38 but even a combination of both won't do everything a Nano will. As well as live data on the engine, the Nano will show, and can record, live data on the rest of the systems too. For example, you can record from the HEVAC, go for a drive and it will show you the varying temperatures from all sensors, the blend motor positions, whenever the AC compressor is engaged, etc, none of which the EAS software can do, it can only read what is there at the time. The same functionality is available for other systems too.

Safety glasses and maybe gloves too if you are a real wimp. You'll get a lot of sparks, just watch where they go, you may need to cover other things up in case they don't like being hit by tiny bits of flying red hot metal. It'll cut though in a matter of seconds. Take the side handle off so you've got more manoeuvrability.

So what are you doing cutting into an ATM? I thought the usual method was to ram raid the location and then open it with a plasma cutter......

Morat wrote:

Now I've moved within a few hundred yards of a Screwfix, it's starting to get a little addictive :)

My stepfather used to spend so much time there that my mother thought he'd got himself another woman......

Simon is right, you need an M6 nut. If you ferret around in your box of oddments which we all have, you may even find one of those square nuts used on roofing bolts. They are M6 thread.

and while you are at it, get a pack of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/metal-cutting-discs-4-115mm-x-1-x-22-2mm-5-pack/2757v, only 1mm thick and will slice through nuts and bolts in no time. You'll never use a hacksaw again. As they are on offer at the moment, I'm going to pick up another couple of packs tomorrow.

Cheap enough to treat yours to a new one and drill the old one https://www.lrdirect.com/Parts-by-Model/Range-Rover-P38-Parts/Cooling/Expansion-Tank/PCD000070-Cap/

Angle grinder....... If you can't get in to cut through the bolt, cut along the bolt lengthwise so you cut the nut in half.

Header tank is a BMW item, cap is the same as a similar vintage 5 series, more readily available and cheaper than one with an LR label too.

While my boss has been using the Ascot, it has been losing coolant so just been out to see if I could see where from. Ran the engine until it was hot but it isn't pressuring the cooling system (proving that it's a decent engine but has a coolant leak somewhere) so made up something to attach my tyre pump to. Lump of thick heater hose with tape wrapped around it to make it a tight fit into the header tank, with a smaller diameter bit of hose pushed inside that, EAS pipe joiner with tape wrapped around it pushed into that, short piece of EAS pipe then one of my EAS to Schrader valve adapters from the emergency get me home kit. That allowed me to use my tyre pump to pressurise the cooling system up to 25 psi. Easily enough to see it's leaking from at least 3 core plugs...... However, I very much doubt that is where your leak is from considering the age and history of your car. The Ascot is a '96 with 175k on the clock and a history of neglect so has almost certainly been run with plain water in the cooling system at some time in the past.

Part number for the bolts is ERR4961 which is listed in Microcat as Screw - Flanged head M8 Manifold to head, so whatever the thread pitch is for standard M8 bolts I would assume.