It's definitely outwards, it's much louder underneath the car and no different with the oil filler off. I was expecting to be able to see flames blowing out of the gap and was a bit disappointed when I couldn't. That would have told me which pot it was too but using the infra red thermometer on the manifold was a pretty good clue and pulling the HT lead definitely confirmed it. There's no immediate rush for it but I'll probably make a start on it Sunday and then do a bit in the evenings. Got to order a gasket set anyway and I suspect the head is going to need skimming too. It'll be interesting to get it apart as the engine was rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago. It's already got a stud kit fitted and when he bought it he was told it has a Kent cam and stage 2 heads. It's certainly quick, even running on 7 and a half.

Mate bought me his car over the other evening. Despite running fine it sounds more like a traction engine than a V8. He's had it for just over a year and it has always had a slight noise but recently it has been getting worse. He's already replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets thinking it was blowing from the head to manifold joint but that made no difference. I was starting to suspect a head gasket blowing out of the side of the block. See what you think..... https://youtu.be/dKEqPY5rX7A

Unplug the RH multiway connector to the instrument cluster and give it a dose of contact cleaner. It's driven by the engine speed pulse train from the engine ECU so I doubt that is wrong......

Problem with that is that the fob won't work as it's been coded to the car it was ordered for and can't be coded to a different car. Far simpler to just get the handle alone and swap the lock barrel over. Much cheaper too https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALR8122

Don't forget that you've got two separate circuits. One needs the normal pump the pedal to push fluid through while the other one just needs the pedal pressing with the ignition on so the pressure from the pump does the work.

Dropping the subframe is the best bet and you've got the gear for doing it already. Just unbolt it and let it sit on the floor then use your chain block to lift the front of the car off it.

Told you it was possible. Was it fairly simple or a bit of a pita?

For starters you don't have a master cylinder but you do have the brake modulator. I'd start by giving it a full fluid flush, if you've never done it, it may well have never had one. That will be easier if you get the car up in the air on axle stands so that will give you the opportunity to check the calipers and sliders while you are at it. It might also be worth pulling the reservoir off the modulator and making sure it is nice and clean in there too. Very unlikely to be reluctor rings as they would cause an ABS fault.

Unless it has always been sitting halfway through it's travel, then it's unlikely that it has seized, it's not going to suddenly seize while running, so a lack of volts would seem to be the most likely cause.

Whenever I did anything like that on a GT6/Herald/Spitfire, I used to take the transmission tunnel out (only a few bolts) so you could get to the bellhousing bolts from inside the car. Made it even better if it was raining...... I once changed a clutch on a Spitfire doing everything from inside.

God that's awful. But only to be expected in Essex I suppose.....

We've told you how to put pics up but as you use an iPad, it's a bit different to most of us (and you being a computer numpty doesn't help either).....

2 of us once changed the engine on a Morris Marina using a lump of 4x4 fence post and a couple of rope slings. Known as the great white hunter method......

Back in the late 70's I was running the remains of a Hillman Minx. One big end got so bad I dropped the sump off and pulled the head. Took the piston, con rod and pushrods out of that cylinder. Then coated a jubilee clip in gasket goo and put it round the crank journal to keep the oil pressure in and ran it like that for a month or so. Then my local scrappie got another Minx in, paid £25 for the engine and dropped it in the boot. Drove to my Uncle's place who had a hoist on a sliding I beam in his garage. Reversed the car in, hooked the engine in the boot up to the hoist, lifted it out and slid it to one side. Turned the car round, pulled the old engine out, slid that over to one side and sat it next to the 'new' one. Lifted that up, slid it over and dropped it in. £25 and about 4 hours work, things were just so much easier in those days......

500 quid?? I remember when you could go into a scrappie and get an engine for £50......

Personally I'd give him a bell, the longer you leave it the more chance he has to find out that they are a specific engine so not as common as others.

FQJ102292PMA, the one at £36 is drivers door for a LHD car. If you google search the part number you'll see it's listed as LHD LH door.

Once you've had all that lot done, you may find that it doesn't wobble on big bumps any more. You'll be well pissed off if it still does though....

Bollocks, just cross referenced the part number and you're right. Oh well, at least I'll have spare innards...... The picture of the expensive one looked completely different to ours though.

As some may know, the P38 door latches, you know, the ones with the microswitches that fail and lock you out, are the same as the MG TF. Rimmers have a one day sale on ex-factory stock of MG TF parts which includes brand new door latches at £24 for the RH and £36 for the LH. I've just ordered a RH one as a spare before posting this so none of you lot get in and clear out their stock. See https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--MGF-Body-Fittings-Sale--m-19112?src=MGF18

Oh come on Simon, that's always fun. I, very occasionally, go into the marble floor and glass cathedral that is our local Merc main dealer to ask about bits for her indoors's 2004 C180K coupe. They greet you enthusiastically then immediately lose interest when you ask for the parts department and send you outside round to the slightly grubby door marked Trade. I've only ever bought anything in there once, a breather hose which is renowned for dropping to bits on the C180 engine. I went in once and asked for a fuel filter for the same car, the man said, I'll go and get you a price. I stood there thinking, I don't want a price i just want to buy one. He came back looking very pleased with himself to tell me that yes they had one in stock (I should bloody hope so for a service item?) at £98 plus VAT. Told him it would remain in stock then and drove to the other side of town to my usual supplier who had a genuine Bosch one in stock, for £13 including VAT.......