The graph squidges up so it the switching of the lambda sensors get closer together until it decides you'd never be able to read it so the graph scrolls. It will display the last 10 minutes or so. So if you drive it normally and look at the graphs (the most important thing you are looking for is airflow through the MAF rising with revs and lambdas switching between the limits) then keep driving until it goes sick and have another look. You should be able to see the difference and that will give a clue as to what is going on.

Calculated load value is determined by throttle position, revs and MAF. It is a combination of this and the road speed that the gearbox uses to decide when to change gear. So if you have low revs and high throttle opening, it drops down a gear.

GEMS and Bosch ECUs do the same job in the same way but the Bosch is much later technology. GEMS dates back to the early days of electronic fuel injection and was a joint venture between the French company Sagem and Lucas. It was mainly used on BL vehicles while most others used variants of the Bosch systems. Bosch continued to develop their systems (and supplied more and more different manufacturers) but Lucas decided it wasn't worth updating their system to make it fully OBD compliant. The two systems use the same sensors to do the same jobs but they aren't interchangeable.

He's just clueless but it may have had one of the 8 grand Coscast blocks that RPi were selling. They were cast by Cosworth but were still identical to a standard block, just made with a bit more care than a production block. Only problem was they still used standard liners so despite the claims by RPi, although liners didn't slip they could still leak into the combustion chamber.

I'm just down the road in Stilton? Been there the last couple of years and found so little P38 stuff that I'm not bothering this year.

I was going to reply to the PM but as you've copied and pasted it here, I'll reply in public. Yes, the Creader can connect to both the engine and gearbox ECUs so the first one on the list, with only 4 parameters, is the gearbox ECU. The second one is the engine and it shows most things. Looking at your video it's obvious that you've recently reset the adaptive values. The long term trims are showing 0% so they are back at default but the short term trims are permanently -ve so after a while the long term trims will go slightly -ve so the short terms will flip flop either side of 0%. The lambdas are both switching nicely too so all is running well at that time. One thing to note is that the OBD standard requires a 0-1V lambda output but the GEMS engine uses 5-0V sensors so it converts what is actually happening to something that meets the standard. So when it displays 0V, the sensor is actually outputting 5V (lean) and when it displays 1V the sensor is actually giving 0V (rich). OBD didn't become mandatory in Europe until 2000 by which time the P38 had the Bosch engine management that uses 0-1V sensors anyway, earlier ones had to fudge the figures to keep the Yanks happy (who had to be OBD compliant from 96).

If you select the View Graphic items it allows you to select up to 4 parameters and display them as a graph. If you select the two lambda sensor outputs, the air flow through the MAF sensor and the revs, you can then drive it and see what the lambda outputs do when it goes all sick and flat. Then at least we'll know whether it is going rich or lean.

Because some people just do not realise what they have. He should have stuck with some dodgy old diesel Discovery than butcher that.

If I was going to buy brake hoses, I'd go for Goodrich braided ones rather than rubber, especially not from Britpart. See https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings who also do complete kits but although they list Land Rover don't list a set for the P38. Might be worth giving them a call though. I've used them in the past on more obscure vehicles and they are very good (and quick).

Definitely other lubrication but a bit more than just oil changes. Other than a complete engine and gearbox change, there isn't much we haven't done in the last couple of years as Nick's bloodied legs will testify.

Weekend of the 22nd is a definite no for me, daughter's wedding is likely to take priority......

That's why. The Creader is just a generic OBD reader for reading engine codes, the EAS V4 fills in the gaps for most of the subsystems on the P38 but even a combination of both won't do everything a Nano will. As well as live data on the engine, the Nano will show, and can record, live data on the rest of the systems too. For example, you can record from the HEVAC, go for a drive and it will show you the varying temperatures from all sensors, the blend motor positions, whenever the AC compressor is engaged, etc, none of which the EAS software can do, it can only read what is there at the time. The same functionality is available for other systems too.

Safety glasses and maybe gloves too if you are a real wimp. You'll get a lot of sparks, just watch where they go, you may need to cover other things up in case they don't like being hit by tiny bits of flying red hot metal. It'll cut though in a matter of seconds. Take the side handle off so you've got more manoeuvrability.

So what are you doing cutting into an ATM? I thought the usual method was to ram raid the location and then open it with a plasma cutter......

Morat wrote:

Now I've moved within a few hundred yards of a Screwfix, it's starting to get a little addictive :)

My stepfather used to spend so much time there that my mother thought he'd got himself another woman......

Simon is right, you need an M6 nut. If you ferret around in your box of oddments which we all have, you may even find one of those square nuts used on roofing bolts. They are M6 thread.

and while you are at it, get a pack of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/metal-cutting-discs-4-115mm-x-1-x-22-2mm-5-pack/2757v, only 1mm thick and will slice through nuts and bolts in no time. You'll never use a hacksaw again. As they are on offer at the moment, I'm going to pick up another couple of packs tomorrow.

Cheap enough to treat yours to a new one and drill the old one https://www.lrdirect.com/Parts-by-Model/Range-Rover-P38-Parts/Cooling/Expansion-Tank/PCD000070-Cap/

Angle grinder....... If you can't get in to cut through the bolt, cut along the bolt lengthwise so you cut the nut in half.

Header tank is a BMW item, cap is the same as a similar vintage 5 series, more readily available and cheaper than one with an LR label too.

While my boss has been using the Ascot, it has been losing coolant so just been out to see if I could see where from. Ran the engine until it was hot but it isn't pressuring the cooling system (proving that it's a decent engine but has a coolant leak somewhere) so made up something to attach my tyre pump to. Lump of thick heater hose with tape wrapped around it to make it a tight fit into the header tank, with a smaller diameter bit of hose pushed inside that, EAS pipe joiner with tape wrapped around it pushed into that, short piece of EAS pipe then one of my EAS to Schrader valve adapters from the emergency get me home kit. That allowed me to use my tyre pump to pressurise the cooling system up to 25 psi. Easily enough to see it's leaking from at least 3 core plugs...... However, I very much doubt that is where your leak is from considering the age and history of your car. The Ascot is a '96 with 175k on the clock and a history of neglect so has almost certainly been run with plain water in the cooling system at some time in the past.

Part number for the bolts is ERR4961 which is listed in Microcat as Screw - Flanged head M8 Manifold to head, so whatever the thread pitch is for standard M8 bolts I would assume.

Martyuk wrote:

though luckily we now have an option at less than a third of what Land Rover asks, which is a plug and play solution ;) check out my website for more info :)

and I can vouch that it works perfectly.

If you saw my thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1024-ignition-tamper you'll know that I suffered interference to the keyfob receiver from a 433 MHz wireless central heating thermostat in our new house. Although it should have only sent a data burst every 10 minutes it turned out that it was faulty and sending a burst every 15 seconds so the BeCM was never going to sleep. Had I not had the ginormous Hankook battery fitted chances are it would have gone flat overnight. In fact, after not being used one evening so had been left for two days, the starter did sound decidedly sluggish when I next used it. If the car was left parked for any length of time the first press of unlock on the fob tried to lock the already locked doors, second press unlocked it. When turning the ignition on the message centre came up with ALARM TRIGGERED, followed by IGNITION TAMPER. If a door was left open for any length of time, after the interior lights had timed out and gone out shortly afterwards the dash would beep and display INTERIOR LIGHTS OFF, followed a few seconds later by IGNITION LIGHTS ON and it would continue doing this for as long as it was left unlocked with a door open.

I was sent one of Marty and Nick's prototype units to test. Although I replaced the faulty thermostat with a newer one operating on 868 MHz, I left the old one powered up so although it was no longer controlling the heating was still transmitting. My car was no longer affected at all and was back to normal, although I had to disconnect the battery on the SE and, as the Ascot came back from the extended loan to my boss, found that it was doing exactly the same as mine. So I had 3 cars, 2 without the unit and one with and the one with was the only one not being affected by the data bursts from the thermostat. So I can confirm it works perfectly and is also a 5 minute job to fit. Lift the panel to access the receiver on the car, unplug the cable to the receiver, plug the unit inline and put the cover back, job done and no more suffering from RF issues due to other transmissions in the area. Thanks lads, f*cking brilliant!

The superlock motor is a tiny little thing and I doubt you'd hear it, most likely it was the actual lock motor. Faulty latches can cause them to try to run constantly and burn out. Disconnecting the antenna will have no affect whatsoever on the dancing locks. For that to be the cause you'd need to have either keyfob that was operating all on it's own (but with the key in the ignition it would still be close enough to the receiver for it to pick up a signal from the fob) or something else sending exactly the right code to lock and unlock your car. With the next thing after dancing locks being locking you out and not being able to enter the EKA, I'd move it up to the top of the to do list. Something to do while waiting for your new water pump.

Have you checked the O ring on the heater outlet from the manifold that I mentioned a couple of weeks ago? That's above the oil filter.