So like spray on Mer then? That makes it go really shiny too and doesn't need the elbow grease that wax needs.

(proves how little I know about polishing cars.....)

Orangebean fitted a pair of the PowerfulUK ones to his car and followed me at last years summer camp. Bright white, not too blue and definitely bright but didn't cause me to have to dip my mirror. Admittedly he had spent a while setting them up properly but they did seem to be very good. Totally agree on some modern cars with the headlights mounted high up (although the Nissan Joke should have been aborted before birth anyway) but there's others that seem to be pretty bad too.

Which is why a camera will show the differences in the colour of light but you don't notice it yourself. Even daylight changes in colour between early morning and evening. A camera will show that but to you and I it is just light. But this does lead on to a question I have pondered many times, do we all see the same colours? I can look at something and say that it is red, another person will look at the same thing and agree that it is red. But is the colour that I see and call red the same colour that you see and call red?

Yes it is Richard, Richard Gilbert but known at work as Dick with an IT login of Gilbertd, so I use it in loads of places. For the first 5 years of ownership of my P38, I didn't have a Nanocom. For the EAS I used the earlier, free Version 2 of EASUnlock with a £20 cable from eBay and a generic code reader for engine codes. Those two allowed me to do most things but I couldn't read the ABS, HEVAC, BeCM settings or SRS and I couldn't reset the adaptives. I finally bought the Nanocom when the price was right (as the manufacturer is a Brit based in Cyprus they are priced in Euros so I just bought when the exchange rate was at it's best) to give me the ability to read the HEVAC and be able to reset the adaptive values.

You can do all of those with the RSW software, the only thing you can't do is see the live data from the engine. I have one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Launch-Creader-VI-6-OBD2-Engine-ECU-Fault-Code-Reader-Erase-Diagnostic-Tool/322349730545 which not only gives live data as a number but will also show you a pretty graph too. That one is from China but there is also this one currently on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Launch-Creader-Vi-Box-Opened-Car-Obd-Scanner-Tool-Obd2/163061259369 in UK, new but the box has been opened, big deal...... The other thing is it will work on any car not just the P38. It works on many cars from 1996 onwards (when OBD became mandatory in the US so anything that would have been exported or built there) and all petrol engined cars from 2000 and diesels from 2003 (when it became mandatory in the EU). It even supports JOBD, a weird version of onboard diagnostics used on Japanese cars (so anything imported directly from Japan) and I've used mine on numerous different cars once my neighbours realised I could tell them what was wrong with their cars without them having to take it to the dealers. With one of them and a RSW software, you should be able to do most of what a Nanocom can do. Not as easily but cheaper.

Although it seems that it also works on Tasmanian spec ones https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/327170-p38-high-idle.html and I would assume they are Oz spec and the same as UK. That's me asking the question in post 11, had to register a new name on there as they banned me under this one.......

Now you know why some of us would not drive anything else. Look after them and they will look after you, there is nothing better no matter whether you are cruising along a motorway or climbing the side of a mountain.

If you disconnect it, the open circuit will make it think that it is extremely cold but will also flag an error which may well make the car go into a fail safe mode so could affect the running anyway. That's why I said to put a 1k resistor in it's place as that will make it think there is something there. Putting another spare temperature sensor should work too, they are all pretty standard NTC sensors. Just a shame your RSW software doesn't show live readings, if it did you'd be able to see if the mixture is going rich or lean or if the ignition timing is altering when it starts to go all gutless. That would give us a clue as to what is happening.

How do I remember it all? I sometimes don't but know where to look to remind myself. It's one of those things that they say is down to how your brain is wired, I've got an analytical mind, I can work through a problem almost like a flow chart, if this is happening then it could be this or this but if it was that, this would also happen but it isn't and so on. You'd be amazed at the number of faults I've managed to work out in my head while driving along a motorway with nothing better to think about. Using my car to drive long distances around Europe means it's better to have read up on how something works first so when it doesn't you're halfway to solving the problem.

making that app pretty much useless then as it only works on GEMS but ELM327 dongles don't and the app won't work on a Thor but the ELM Bluetooth units will........

You're confusing the units Chris, LM is Lumens, the measure of brightness based on the Candela where 1 Candela is the brightness of 1 candle (OK so it gets more complicated depending on whether you are measuring it as a spot of light or the light that is emitted in all directions) so basically 4000 LM is 4000 candle power, but K is Kelvin, the colour temperature. That is based on the colour of light from a piece of heated metal so at lower temperatures the metal gets red hot and as the temperature gets heated more, the colour gets brighter and whiter until it starts to get a blue tinge to it. You will sometimes see light bulbs, and especially fluorescent tubes, described as warm white (lower k figure) or bright white (higher k). Have a read of this https://www.ledexpress.co.uk/blog/whats-color-temperature/ which explains it and gives the K figures for different light sources.

What Mukiwa is saying that at 6.5K the light from these is going to be very blue, maybe too boy racer blue. However, assuming these are the same as the ones Orangebean got from PowerfulUK and fitted to his car, they didn't look overly blue. When he and Morat were following me to the hotel at last years summer camp, his lights were noticeably brighter and whiter than the standard Halogens in Morat's car but didn't look too blue.

On a lot of lesser vehicles only a few pins are present in the connector, which ones are there depends on the protocol used on that particular vehicle. The P38 uses the pins not needed by the OBD protocol for connection to the other subsystems. For example, Canbus uses pin 14 but on a P38 that is used by the SRS system as engine data is on pins 7 and 15 (although oddly the ABS system and HEVAC also use pins 7 and 15) . I suspect what is happening is that the ELM327 interface is checking all pins to detect the protocol and the other systems are getting offended by something probing it's ports (Ooh Err missus....).

No, the cruise control uses it's own little dedicated vacuum pump rather than engine vacuum so doesn't affect the engine running at all. The intake air temperature sensor only does anything if temperature gets very hot, over 55 degrees, so that could be achieved where you are and that causes the ignition timing to be retarded. Retarded timing would cause a reduction of power if the sensor is thinking it has got that hot. It's a fairly standard resistive sensor, high resistance when cold, low when hot, so substituting it for a 1k resistor might show a difference if that is the problem. I know that the ECU can detect an open circuit and log a fault code (having started a car having forgotten to reconnect it). If it was shorted wiring (signifying very hot all the time), then I would expect it to be the same whether hot or cold.

Bit like the 33 lbft for the crossmember bolts...... You need to be prepared to give something much more welly than you think it is going to take.

It won't be in RAVE as they would just replace the complete hub rather than fitting a new bearing. However, https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/drivetrain/hubs.html

and I've got a wedding to attend on the 22nd. Can't get out of this one as it's my daughter's.......

The EAS uses pins on the OBD socket that aren't used on a standard OBD socket so you would need to rewire. But only for the EAS and a couple of other proprietary things, the engine side of things uses the standard pins.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.flemcodesign.gems.gemsutility

Claims to be able to reset adaptive values and sync the BeCM and ECM. Could be very useful if it works, almost worth buying an ELM327 plug in to try it. I know I can already do both those with the Nanocom but for anyone that can't stretch the funds that far it could come in very handy. If it does what it says it does anyway.

It might be a bug in the Nanocom. I seem to remember mine was telling me the RH blend motor was faulty when it was clearly the LH one. If you look at the feedback return figures as you change the temperature rockers, you can see which one moves and which one is playing up.

Mukiwa wrote:

the dip beam is seriously crap.

You want to try a Yamaha Fazer then for really crap dip beam. They've got twin headlights but as standard one is dip and main the other main only, I've rewired mine so they are both dip and main and even then dip is only marginally better than a candle in a jam jar. I did consider trying one of the LED bulbs that I bought for the car and condemned for the appalling beam pattern. I suspect the fork leg would remove the heatsink on the back of the bulb when I put it on full lock though.

The Powerful UK ones are those that Orangebean fitted into his and after a bit of faffing around got a near perfect beam pattern. I tried some from eBay, not the ones you are looking at admittedly, but there was no way the beam pattern could be considered acceptable. The Powerful UK ones have dropped in price too, they were about £75 before, so I stuck with my preferred Osram Nightbreakers.

Shouldn't be any need, unless you've touched the steering linkage, which you won't if all you've done is air springs and shocks, it won't have changed.