The only ones I have ever seen are like this https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC8525BM, a semi-rigid plastic with 100mm sides, never seen one that goes right up and covers the sides too. That part number is the only one listed for a boot carpet protector although the H&H may have had something supplied by H&H so not a Land Rover part. Can't find the little tables that fit on the backs of the front seats in the parts listing either so they may well be unique.

Georges picture shows the fuel flap release on the LH side of the binnacle on a LHD car, so it is towards the outside of the car . On a RHD it is also on the LH side of the binnacle so nearer the centre of the car. The parts listing only shows two part numbers, one for up to VIN WA and one for VIN from XA so it appears they are the same on LHD and RHD.

Britpart condenser arrived yesterday so been out there and fitted it this evening. Looks surprisingly good but didn't come with O rings so it's a good job I ordered them too. All the bolt holes lined up although I did have to enlarge the holes at the bottom slightly for a locating peg to fit in. Cheated a bit as RAVE says to remove the front bumper but I suspect the bolts holding mine will shear long before they come out. A long 3/8 drive extension can be passed through the grille in the lower bumper to undo the bottom bolts and the fans can be unbolted once it's lifted part way out. Bottom pipe came out easily enough with a crows foot spanner but the top one was well chewed from where someone had been in there before and needed a pair of Stilsons to get that off. Hopefully, I've done them up tight enough (RAVE says do them up to 11 ft/lbs but I don't have an open ended torque wrench) but not too tight that I can still get them off when I need to return it under the 2 year warranty. Old one was leaking in at least 3 places from the green goop.

Now just got to get it pressure tested and regassed which probably won't be until Saturday morning (unless I can skive off from work early one day before then.....).

Mine when it was new

A couple of years ago

About 5 years ago (interesting experience towing over 4 tonnes with no brakes on the trailer for 950 miles.....)

and in January a box containing Rick Wakeman's Grand Piano (all 450 kgs of it!)

Mine may be my everyday car but it's been a working vehicle all it's life. I bought it in the first place as I needed something capable of towing 3 tonnes for long distances in comfort and at a decent cruising speed. Now I wouldn't consider owning anything else.......

Seems this one is the only one still available https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID009721

They are darker than the ones used on a car with the Lightstone interior, this colour was used with the tan (dog poo) interior colour. Interior colours were Dark Granite, Ash Grey, Lightstone Beige and Tan, Tan is the correct one for George and was replaced with Walnut on later, post 99, cars.

It's the same with most breakers, interior trim takes up a lot of storage space and there isn't much call for it. East Coast are another breaker/restorer (depending on the condition of the car that comes in) and they strap all the seats and plastic trim to a pallet and sell it as one lot. I went there and got a complete replacement interior for mine when all I wanted was the passenger seat base to replace my very worn drivers seat base. I ended up bringing back all the plastics that you need too just in case I ever needed them (and still have them) but they are in dark grey.

From the RSW website (producers of the free EASUnlock software)

Pressure Signal Constantly High
Investigate the Main Pressure Switch. Check the functionality. If Pressure switch is normal, then problem is most likely sourced with the EAS Driver Pack.

Pressure signal constantly Low
Investigate the Main Pressure Switch. Check the functionality. If Pressure switch is normal, then problem is most likely sourced with the EAS Driver Pack.

Sounds like iffy connections between the driver pack and valve block in the big multi-way connector (that you can only get to with the valve block out).

Jack the front of the car on the axle so the wheel is clear of the deck, then put a long bar under the wheel and try to lift the wheel. If there is any up and down movement, the ball joints are shot. Ideally it's a two man job, one person on the bar and another underneath looking for the movement.

Nanocom can show both the airflow and the voltage from the AFM so if you can find one that is running correctly and showing the correct airflow against revs, then you can also read the voltages that correspond.

I called in at Avenger last week but they have had a clearout and most trim parts have been thrown away so no joy there. However, I suspect someone might have the bits you need (Chris?) or I can try another couple of breakers for you.

Or do as the breakers do, with copper at £3.90 a kilo, weight the loom in as scrap. After you've chopped the plugs off of course.......

That's probably why Gordon is asking. On mine the temperature gauge sender and intake air temperature sender have had to have the plastic cut back and the wires soldered to the pins after they broke off where they enter the plug. Gordon's car is the same age as mine so I suspect he has the exact same problem.

I bought mine in November 2010 for £900 and immediately spent £100 on a pair of rear air springs and about £150 to skim the heads and replace both head gaskets. Since then the main cost has been £2600 for the top hatted motor and everything else as it's needed it but I've not kept any records. I suspect I've probably spent somewhere in the region of £2500-3000 in bits and pieces over the years. So at a maximum something in the region of £6750 in seven and a half years.

Fuel is a different matter though. Since buying it, I've covered 148,000 miles (now at 353,000) so with a fill of LPG every 180 miles on average at a cost of about £35 a fill, that's £28,777 on fuel (and a massive 822 times standing in the cold with my hand on the button!) not to mention the £40 ish of petrol a year too. Bloody good job I'm not running it on petrol!!

Clive603 wrote:

Sooo glad I haven't got a sunroof aperture to worry about.

The sunroof aperture actually makes it easier as the material can be left over the hole (as in the picture), cut out with lots of overlap and then stuck down around the edges. Without it is another concave section that needs plenty of glue to ensure it fits properly all the way along. I know because mine doesn't but my excuse is that it was the first one I'd ever done and it was done on the back lawn as it was getting dark. It annoys me every time I look at it but nobody else has ever noticed it.

You are right about the glue, spray it on both surfaces and as soon as they touch, that's it, it isn't going anywhere. It is definitely a two, if not three, man job. When we did mine we started at the front and stuck down a foot or so at a time. Not difficult to do as the glue must be on both surfaces so any overspray on one surface won't stick. But that does mean you need the other assistant(s) to hold it clear of the backing while you carefully smooth it down. There was a link to a Youtube video of a guy doing a Discovery headlining but it doesn't appear to be there now.

So I pulled the distribution blend motor over the weekend, cleaned out the motor, swapped the feedback pot for one that didn't have a dead spot at one end of it's travel, gave it a couple of little dobs of silicon grease and that sorted that out. All blend motors now moving just as they should, although the left blend motor does go to 105% when set on full heat (?). Still had the book showing after a couple of minutes running and fault showing compressor clutch again. Checked it with a pressure gauge and found that all 1250 grammes of refrigerant had indeed gone walkabout. Back to the garage after work today. When they gassed it they used vacuum to check for leaks and there weren't any. Today they put 10 bar of Nitrogen in it and the ultra violet torch showed the oil dribbling down the front of the condenser but from behind one of the fans. Seems that it has worn through by chaffing on the fan frame and the vacuum had sucked the fan frame over the hole so it didn't leak. With pressure it just squirted it out. So I've just ordered a Britpart condenser because a) it was the cheapest and b) has a 2 year warranty compared with a 1 year one on the more expensive ones. I also ordered the O rings too just in case it doesn't come supplied with any.

If you go into any LR main dealer with the V5 and driving licence to prove it is yours and you are you (so you'll probably have to wait until you have the V5 in your name), they can connect to the Land Rover computer system and print it out. Free of charge too (probably the only thing you will ever get out of LR free of charge)

Mine is also Ash Grey interior so it sounds like the Light Grey would be correct.

If you don't have it, get the printout from Land Rover on it. As well as giving you all the useful information like radio code and EKA code, it'll give you the actual build date.