Welcome Ant, sounds like you're doing it the right way, sort out what is likely to fail before using it and complaining that it keeps breaking down. As long as you didn't get a Britpart water pump or radiator, you should be ready for a few years use.

Where in the country are you?

Hmm, all interesting stuff. I wouldn't argue about it and I know some people always use it. I never have except on that one occasion about 25 years ago when I did and within 10 miles the wheel had come loose so I never have since. I may have been over generous with it and put too much on or I may not have done the bolts up as tight as I should but it put me off using it. I have sometimes dunked wheel bolts in used sump oil if they are tight on the threads but that is about it (I'll probably find now that is a complete no-no too).

Ordinarily the only time the Copaslip comes out these days is on brake pads, even though most modern ones come with an anti-squeal coating so it probably isn'y necessary, brake caliper sliders and to slobber in grotty old bulb holders to give better conductivity rather than having to thump a light to make it come on.

But yours is a Thor, isn't the pressure regulator in the fuel pump housing inside the tank?

Until I got to the last line, I was going to ask if you'd plugged in a code reader. If the one you use does live data, drive with it connected and see what it shows when it does it. Check the fuel pressure too.

Maybe, either me or a gorilla with an air wrench could have damaged something in the past. Normally when I do them up they creak as they are tightened but I noticed that they didn't when I used the torque wrench. I've never put any lube of any sort on them as I once had a hell of a job getting steel bolts out of an alloy wheel because the taper on the bolt had welded itself to the wheel. When I put it back I put some Copperslip on to stop it happening again, took the car out for a run and the bolts came loose.....

It isn't just on eBay. I needed an ABS sensor for my daughters Toyota MR2 Roadster. Toyota price, over £300, Eurocarparts, £275 but out of stock, www.onlinecarparts.co.uk, £19 plus a tenner postage. No prizes for guessing which I went for. Despite the .co.uk web address, they are actually in Germany and use a pensioner with a donkey and cart for delivery. Or at least with the length of time it took to arrive, it seemed like that's what they use. I'd almost given up on it when it arrived. Genuine Denso branded part, perfect fit and complete with replacement plastic clips. I've also bought stuff on eBay from sellers in China and never had a problem either.

If it's showing 3.23k at 13 degrees, that would suggest a 5k sensor.

Seems I don't know my own strength. My torque wrench goes up to 110 lb/ft and even set at that I couldn't do the nuts up any tighter than they already are......

When I used the torque wrench on the wheel nuts, it felt like I wasn't doing them up as tight as I would do normally. Then realised that my torque wrench is longer than what I normally use and put it down to that. But, it's the first time I've used the torque wrench and the first time I've had wheel nuts come loose too.

Now the GP has finished, I'll go outside and see how tight they are done up now......

OK, time for an update. Didn't get chance to do any more until I had to set off for another 2,500 mile jaunt around France. I worked on the principle that if I did get a puncture, it would almost certainly be on that wheel but I'd just use my ADAC European breakdown service and let someone else have a go. Anyway, didn't get a puncture so figured I ought to have another go at it today. Started with a lump of 4x4 fence post and a sledge hammer on the inside of the rim. No joy. Then decided the Gordon (and Dave) method was going to have to be tried. Took all the nuts off and then put them back on enough that the tapered part was just touching the wheel so the wheel would get very wobbly but wouldn't fly off and leave me running on the brake disc. Tried driving it gently (fortunately I live at the end of a private road), nothing moved. Reversed it into the driveway, put it on full left lock (so the maximum weight would be on the offending offside rear wheel) and floored the throttle out of the driveway. Nothing moved. Tried it again in low ratio and there was a loud crack. Looked at the nuts only to find that the the wheel had rotated on the hub but hadn't moved outwards. Then realised that I hadn't followed Dave's advice of putting some lube in the hub. Having used up all my PlusGas, tried Dave's suggested ATF (although didn't have any Acetone to mix with it) and figured I would need to roll it back and forth to spread it around. Did that, there was a clunk and the wheel was almost hanging off! Success!!! Cleaned the hub centre and wheel and put it all back together.

Then I noticed something really worrying. I've got one of those telescopic wheel breaker bars (like this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht163-extending-wheel-wrench/) and use it extended to get the nuts off and not extended to put them on. When I changed the diff my torque wrench was there so, just for a change, I used that and torqued the wheel nuts up to the recommended 80 lb/ft rather than just doing them up tight. The nearside wheel nuts were all loose. All bar one had worked their way out a few turns, enough for me to notice that they were standing further proud than they should. Only one hadn't worked it's way out but even that wasn't tight. So I've done them up my normal method now but it might explain the slight vibration I noticed when driving back from France at a steady 80 mph (Gulp!). Maybe 80 lb/ft isn't tight enough?

I'm with Marty on this, 50 Ohms is way too low where 10k when at their lowest temperature is normal dropping as it gets hot.

Mine does it too, almost as if something sticks slightly then gives. It's always done it, never got any better or worse, hasn't changed after replacing air springs or shocks and is just the same after 7 years and 153,000 miles.

and soldering will cope with the pressure. I once repaired a cracked copper pipe on a Saab AC system using a bit of Kunifer brake pipe and standard electrical flux cored solder and a blowlamp.

Lpgc wrote:

Are the limited editions worth a lot of money?

It depends on what they are. The H&H and Linley are true limited editions and are worth a lot, particularly, as Oldshep says, the Linley. Then there is the 30th Anniversary where they made 200 (I think) of them so one in decent nick is worth a bit, but not a huge amount, more than a standard one. There's a few others that have come out over the years but again, limited but still made in comparatively large numbers so quite common. The one that a lot of people think is a limited edition but isn't is the Autobiography. That was a model where the buyer could choose the paint colour, interior colour, wheels and spec to make it just how he wanted it. Some have a pretty odd spec when someone didn't really know what they wanted so left off some things that were standard on an HSE.

He also has the ONLY LHD Linley ever built. The Linley was yet another very small run of exclusive cars where only 6 were made, 5 in RHD and the one that he has. I believe there are only 2 or 3 of the original 6 still in existence. That man has some seriously rare cars. Shame he's on the wrong side of the Atlantic as I'd love to see both of them.......

H&H is Holland and Holland who make shotguns. A very limited edition P38 that was produced using a one off colour paint and interior using the same walnut as they use to make their shotgun stocks. See https://www.google.com/search?q=holland+and+holland+p38&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjnypPU5b7bAhWIBcAKHdS1Dn4QsAQIKA&biw=1680&bih=925

It won't work on an R134a system for long, the Propane will dissolve the seals and it will all leak out. It can be used on an old R12 system but as the connections are different a modern evacuation unit won't connect to it anyway.

Got to be worth a try, you've lost very little if it doesn't work. I'd use compressed air to check for the leak. I know water vapour would get in there but that is what would be in there if the system has been apart anyway so shouldn't harm the vacuum machine when they evacuate it before refilling.

Having got home in the early hours of this morning, I unloaded my car today and couldn't resist checking the valve block I bought back. Suspicions were correct, the solenoids had been put on in the wrong places. My mate had been meticulous and had marked them before taking them off so they went back in the same place as they came off but it appears someone else had been in there before he took it apart and when it didn't work they probably fitted the manual inflation kit.

But, there's getting something wrong and really screwing it up in a big way. How about?
Exhaust solenoid fitted where the front left should be.
Inlet where the Exhaust should be
Front right where the Inlet should be
Front left where the Rear left should be
Rear left where the Front right should be
However, the Rear right was in the correct place as was the Diaphragm valve but that one is different to the others it will only fit in one place anyway.

Some people just shouldn't be allowed to touch technical things......

Nice job but one thought occurs. Why didn't you run the wiring to the tank in at the same time as the pipe? Now you've got to grovel under the car again, with the associated crap in the eyes, to do that.