Jack the front of the car on the axle so the wheel is clear of the deck, then put a long bar under the wheel and try to lift the wheel. If there is any up and down movement, the ball joints are shot. Ideally it's a two man job, one person on the bar and another underneath looking for the movement.

Nanocom can show both the airflow and the voltage from the AFM so if you can find one that is running correctly and showing the correct airflow against revs, then you can also read the voltages that correspond.

I called in at Avenger last week but they have had a clearout and most trim parts have been thrown away so no joy there. However, I suspect someone might have the bits you need (Chris?) or I can try another couple of breakers for you.

Or do as the breakers do, with copper at £3.90 a kilo, weight the loom in as scrap. After you've chopped the plugs off of course.......

That's probably why Gordon is asking. On mine the temperature gauge sender and intake air temperature sender have had to have the plastic cut back and the wires soldered to the pins after they broke off where they enter the plug. Gordon's car is the same age as mine so I suspect he has the exact same problem.

I bought mine in November 2010 for £900 and immediately spent £100 on a pair of rear air springs and about £150 to skim the heads and replace both head gaskets. Since then the main cost has been £2600 for the top hatted motor and everything else as it's needed it but I've not kept any records. I suspect I've probably spent somewhere in the region of £2500-3000 in bits and pieces over the years. So at a maximum something in the region of £6750 in seven and a half years.

Fuel is a different matter though. Since buying it, I've covered 148,000 miles (now at 353,000) so with a fill of LPG every 180 miles on average at a cost of about £35 a fill, that's £28,777 on fuel (and a massive 822 times standing in the cold with my hand on the button!) not to mention the £40 ish of petrol a year too. Bloody good job I'm not running it on petrol!!

Clive603 wrote:

Sooo glad I haven't got a sunroof aperture to worry about.

The sunroof aperture actually makes it easier as the material can be left over the hole (as in the picture), cut out with lots of overlap and then stuck down around the edges. Without it is another concave section that needs plenty of glue to ensure it fits properly all the way along. I know because mine doesn't but my excuse is that it was the first one I'd ever done and it was done on the back lawn as it was getting dark. It annoys me every time I look at it but nobody else has ever noticed it.

You are right about the glue, spray it on both surfaces and as soon as they touch, that's it, it isn't going anywhere. It is definitely a two, if not three, man job. When we did mine we started at the front and stuck down a foot or so at a time. Not difficult to do as the glue must be on both surfaces so any overspray on one surface won't stick. But that does mean you need the other assistant(s) to hold it clear of the backing while you carefully smooth it down. There was a link to a Youtube video of a guy doing a Discovery headlining but it doesn't appear to be there now.

So I pulled the distribution blend motor over the weekend, cleaned out the motor, swapped the feedback pot for one that didn't have a dead spot at one end of it's travel, gave it a couple of little dobs of silicon grease and that sorted that out. All blend motors now moving just as they should, although the left blend motor does go to 105% when set on full heat (?). Still had the book showing after a couple of minutes running and fault showing compressor clutch again. Checked it with a pressure gauge and found that all 1250 grammes of refrigerant had indeed gone walkabout. Back to the garage after work today. When they gassed it they used vacuum to check for leaks and there weren't any. Today they put 10 bar of Nitrogen in it and the ultra violet torch showed the oil dribbling down the front of the condenser but from behind one of the fans. Seems that it has worn through by chaffing on the fan frame and the vacuum had sucked the fan frame over the hole so it didn't leak. With pressure it just squirted it out. So I've just ordered a Britpart condenser because a) it was the cheapest and b) has a 2 year warranty compared with a 1 year one on the more expensive ones. I also ordered the O rings too just in case it doesn't come supplied with any.

If you go into any LR main dealer with the V5 and driving licence to prove it is yours and you are you (so you'll probably have to wait until you have the V5 in your name), they can connect to the Land Rover computer system and print it out. Free of charge too (probably the only thing you will ever get out of LR free of charge)

Mine is also Ash Grey interior so it sounds like the Light Grey would be correct.

If you don't have it, get the printout from Land Rover on it. As well as giving you all the useful information like radio code and EKA code, it'll give you the actual build date.

Mine was light grey too. Maybe they differed depending on the interior trim colour? Oatmeal would be right if you have the Lightstone interior, light grey on mine as I have a grey interior. The SE has the light blue leather interior and that is grey too.

The only trim clips I broke were the little flappy bits that cover the screws on the sun visor clips (the ones either side of the interior light). The hinge but I tried to prise them open from the hinged side so they broke off. Better close up glasses needed......

It's finally made the mainstream press http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-43619732

That's good, one less thing you'll need to do to it. I took all of the plastic trims off mine, grille and all the side rubbing strips and sprayed them with black bumper paint. Gives a sort of satin finish and tidies the appearance nicely. Preferable to spending hours with the back to black stuff that fades back to grey within a couple of weeks. The early cars had a few weaker points that were corrected from '97 onwards, the most serious being the fusebox so check that for signs of overheating. Dash illumination is easy enough to sort out too. Otherwise it looks like you've got yourself a bargain.

I would suspect it was put in cross threaded by whoever had it off last. I've come across a couple like that but have never understood why they break when coming out and not when being wound in.

Looks pretty good, got the faded grey plastic grille option too......

Shame the one Adam is breaking (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/759-getting-spare-car-for-engine-swap) is the wrong colour, or he would be able to supply everything you need. Avenger 4x4 is local to me and I think he has a green one in for breaking at the moment, if you post up the list, preferably with part numbers (as I'm not sure what you mean by rear carpet finishers) or photos, I can call in and see what he's got. It's not the sort of thing he usually keeps so if he has them in the right colour it shouldn't be a problem. Agreed on one big box or you'll end up being charged 1000% tax on every individual part. It'll work out a lot better on a big box with a declared value of £20.

Yup, stuck at 80%......