I've only seen Britpart propshaft bolts being sold and as I would rather not have my props held on with something made from case hardened Plasticine, I've kept the originals and used a dob of Loctite on them. Not come loose in 140,000 miles.

With no rear prop the wheels will be turning but there will be no drive through the crown wheel and pinion so if it doesn't go away completely the noise will be dramatically reduced. As an electronics man you could do what I did and gaffer tape a mic insert to the diff casing and run that into something to record it. All you need do then is move the mic from one suspect component to the other.

Problem I found with LRDirect is that if you order a number of things and one isn't in stock, everything waits until they have the full order even if you do pay the extra. I've ordered stuff I've needed the following day but added a couple of extra bits onto the order only to find they weren't in stock so the stuff I really needed didn't arrive when I needed it. Their website does make this clear but who reads the small print? Although they are a bit more expensive than LRDirect, Island, etc, I've found Rimmer Bros to be the best if you need something really urgently.

no10chris wrote:

I’ve done the heads on a few with l322 front ends, they’ve all been minus the ac condenser, so obviously if you change the front you can’t have ac !

Not sure why as it appears to still have the P38 bonnet and wings so it can't be a clearance thing.

Put the front prop back on, take the rear one off and drive it. Don't forget to put a couple of nuts on the rear prop flange to stop the parking brake drum making a bid for freedom but that will tell you if it is in the axle or the transfer case. If you do change the transfer case, make sure you replace the gearbox output shaft oil seal as RAVE says. It's a real pain to have to take it off again just to replace that seal. A transfer box from a 4.0 litre would be a good one to go for, those from a 4.6 or a diesel will have had more torque through them so will be more likely to have a stretched chain.

My preference for series plumbing came from experience. I had a Classic running a single point (so can run on gas from the word go) plumbed in parallel when I got it and on a cold morning it would freeze the vaporiser within 400 yards. Changed that one to series and it never did it again. The P38 was also fitted with a single point and parallel plumbing when I got it and at idle on a cold day the heater would drop to lukewarm. Again, changing to series cured that too. It depends on how much restriction each puts in the coolant flow. If the vaporiser has more resistance, the bulk of the coolant will flow through the heater allowing the vaporiser to freeze. If the heater has more resistance, then there's plenty of flow through the vaporiser but not enough through the heater. Series equals the flow and I've never had any problems with dropping from 19mm down to 16mm and back again but I will admit that if a vaporiser has very small coolant connections it could cause too much of a restriction. In saying that though, with them plumbed in parallel I would have thought the bulk of the coolant would go through the heater with the risk of freezing the vaporiser?

It would be interesting to see what the relative temperatures of the vaporiser and heater matrix are. A Nano will tell you what the heater temperature is and an infra red thermometer will give a good idea what the vaporiser temperature is.

I would hope, on a 2002 Thor, it would be sequential, anything earlier would be a nightmare on something that age.

No need to remove the ABS sensors, or even the brake calipers, to change a rear diff. Undo the 6 bolts that hold the hub in place, pull it out a couple of inches so it clears the diff splines and pull the diff. I've found that if you sit the wheels next to the hubs, you can rest them on those so they are not resting on the oil seals. Hardest part is getting the new diff into place, it's heavy and not the ideal shape to sit on a trolley jack.

Errm, now I'm not fully conversant with the underbonnet layout on a Thor but hasn't somebody stolen the AC compressor?

I'm confused, or maybe at 62 I'm not the dinosaur I though I was and have embraced the paperless society. Why would you want to spend £70 on a parts catalogue when there's Microcat, lrcat.com and Allbrit.de with the same thing online? As for a manual, I print off the odd page when I'm doing a job (head and inlet manifold torque sequences for example) and then throw it away when the job is finished. I can always print another copy if I need it again in the future.

Don't use Tee's at all. You need a 19-19mm straight connector, two 19-16mm straight connectors and a good length of 16mm ID hose. In the hose from the inlet manifold fit a 19-16 connector, run a hose from that to the vaporiser. Vaporiser return hose goes to the heater inlet using the second 19-16. 19-19 goes in the heater return to connect it back as it was originally.

Doing it this way the vaporiser and heater are in series so no danger of one taking all of the flow while the other gets none.

Have you realised that this site will be celebrating it's 2nd birthday on Friday? Member number 2 hasn't posted much though......

Three 120 Ohm resistors in parallel will give you 40 Ohms, but 40 Ohms is not a standard value (33 or 47 are standard values) which is why he's used 3 in parallel. Not only that, but by using 3 they don't need to be high current ones either.

Most cheapo meters won't give a tone for much over 5 Ohms, it is intended for checking continuity rather than resistance.

Or just do the line in mod on the one you have. Then you can either plug an external source in or plug in a £5 Bluetooth module and use it with your phone.

dhallworth wrote:

and your P38’s all behave if you need to use them.

Bloody hope mine does, it's got 3500 miles to do in the next week!!

Merry Christmas everyone.

I checked RAVE, if you have a sub you have amps in all the doors so would need to knock up the attenuators if you wanted to use a standard head unit. Or at least you would need to use the attenuators if you don't want it to overdrive the amps and distort horribly.

The extra two connections in the plug are for the sub. You've got the same L,R, F, R as on a standard 8 pin DIN but with two extra pins. Not sure if a 94 would have the door amps although the presence of the sub does suggest a high line system so maybe it does.

I've only got one car with the original radio and that has been back to Pioneer and had the code removed so comes up with NO CODE when first switched on then simply works. I think I read somewhere that it has to be powered up for a couple of hours before the ---- changes to CODE but I could be wrong. It must be powered continuously so don't turn it off even if you stop for fuel.

I think Gordon has the storage capacity and bandwidth to allow it to cope with far more users so it wouldn't be a problem. What would be is that all of us on here, except for a couple, are P38 owners so that is what we know and have experience with so expanding to cover other models wouldn't be a lot of use or interest. I suppose all that would be needed would be a bit more publicity although that could take away the personal feel of the site. It is a virtual pub, you wander in, sit down and talk about cars. If the conversation wanders off topic, who cares? The tag line for the site dates back to when the Defender first came out on coil springs after years of the Series Land Rovers being on leaf springs. It was using that phrase when people were talking about converting a P38 to coils springs, that got both Gordon and me a ban from RR.net and started the idea for this site in the first place (that, and considerable quantities of alcohol).

What has always got to me about RR.net is that it is a site that was started by a New Zealander, dedicated to a British car, now owned by a Canadian company but Admin is a narrow minded redneck Yank who judges by his own standards and sets his own rules.

esprits4s wrote:

This all started with him telling me to stay on topic in a thread that I started. I started a thread asking about rear brake lines. Then I asked about rust treatment in the same thread. He then stepped in.

I've registered a different username on there so I can send the odd reply but mainly to avoid the ads. I saw your thread, I saw his comment about dropping the tank allowing you to deal with any rust and then when he told you to stay on topic, I saw your reply. I very nearly sent you a PM warning you that you were getting dangerously close to a ban by answering him back. Seems he hasn't yet entered into the Christmas spirit of goodwill to all men.

Welcome and if it wasn't for Toad, I think we'd have far less members on here. But will you please remember that this is primarily a UK based forum. So it's a car not a truck, it has a bonnet not a hood and it runs on petrol not gas as that really causes confusion when so many of us this side of the Atlantic run our cars on LPG.

PS, do you actually have an Esprit as well as a P38? A glutton for punishment is the phrase that springs to mind.......

2 looks correct assuming you have a reversing camera or something that means it needs to know when you are in reverse.
3 again OK if you intend watching video on it (but as it's capable of doing it, why not?), it will blank the screen when the handbrake is off.
4 Yes
5 I suspect that is just a standard ground, you may as well connect it, it won't do any harm even if it doesn't need it.
6 & 7 Does the manual say these are for steering wheel controls or are they for power if you don't use the DIN connector? The original unit uses what's known as a ladder circuit where a press of each button sends a different resistance between the remote wire and ground. More modern units use data and I suspect that is what the adapter on eBay you linked to does, converts the different resistance values to data. I know my Kenwood head unit uses data and that adapter says it will work with Kenwood. If it does work, at that price I might get one and replace my steering wheel with one with buttons so I can use it.

You use the first one and only use half of it. Or, you chop the phono plug off and connect directly to the sub feed to the back of the car. It looks like the sub output is mono, hence only one plug. The DIN output will give you speaker level outputs so that is there the attenuators need to go and ignore the line level outputs (plugs 13-16). The 'wake up' output from the head unit to your door amps (and the sub presumably), is wire 8. As it can also do video, you may need to do something (probably tie it to ground) with wire 3. One of the cars I imported from the US had a similar type system and you could only watch video on it when the handbrake was on and there was a wire that was grounded when the handbrake was applied.