Lpgc wrote:

Are the limited editions worth a lot of money?

It depends on what they are. The H&H and Linley are true limited editions and are worth a lot, particularly, as Oldshep says, the Linley. Then there is the 30th Anniversary where they made 200 (I think) of them so one in decent nick is worth a bit, but not a huge amount, more than a standard one. There's a few others that have come out over the years but again, limited but still made in comparatively large numbers so quite common. The one that a lot of people think is a limited edition but isn't is the Autobiography. That was a model where the buyer could choose the paint colour, interior colour, wheels and spec to make it just how he wanted it. Some have a pretty odd spec when someone didn't really know what they wanted so left off some things that were standard on an HSE.

He also has the ONLY LHD Linley ever built. The Linley was yet another very small run of exclusive cars where only 6 were made, 5 in RHD and the one that he has. I believe there are only 2 or 3 of the original 6 still in existence. That man has some seriously rare cars. Shame he's on the wrong side of the Atlantic as I'd love to see both of them.......

H&H is Holland and Holland who make shotguns. A very limited edition P38 that was produced using a one off colour paint and interior using the same walnut as they use to make their shotgun stocks. See https://www.google.com/search?q=holland+and+holland+p38&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjnypPU5b7bAhWIBcAKHdS1Dn4QsAQIKA&biw=1680&bih=925

It won't work on an R134a system for long, the Propane will dissolve the seals and it will all leak out. It can be used on an old R12 system but as the connections are different a modern evacuation unit won't connect to it anyway.

Got to be worth a try, you've lost very little if it doesn't work. I'd use compressed air to check for the leak. I know water vapour would get in there but that is what would be in there if the system has been apart anyway so shouldn't harm the vacuum machine when they evacuate it before refilling.

Having got home in the early hours of this morning, I unloaded my car today and couldn't resist checking the valve block I bought back. Suspicions were correct, the solenoids had been put on in the wrong places. My mate had been meticulous and had marked them before taking them off so they went back in the same place as they came off but it appears someone else had been in there before he took it apart and when it didn't work they probably fitted the manual inflation kit.

But, there's getting something wrong and really screwing it up in a big way. How about?
Exhaust solenoid fitted where the front left should be.
Inlet where the Exhaust should be
Front right where the Inlet should be
Front left where the Rear left should be
Rear left where the Front right should be
However, the Rear right was in the correct place as was the Diaphragm valve but that one is different to the others it will only fit in one place anyway.

Some people just shouldn't be allowed to touch technical things......

Nice job but one thought occurs. Why didn't you run the wiring to the tank in at the same time as the pipe? Now you've got to grovel under the car again, with the associated crap in the eyes, to do that.

Having owned a Classic before the P38, I couldn't agree more.

I must admit I did consider that. Looking at the diagram in RAVE it seems that the leaking diaphragm would only prevent the reservoir from being filled, once filled the NRVs would keep the air in there. Fortunately I was able to repair it properly but had that not been an option, then serious creative engineering (aka bodgery) would have taken place.

Same problem here, the main difference being I'm 950 miles from home. Drove down to the south of France on Friday night/Saturday towing a huge box trailer. Got here without any problems other that it being a bit slow due to headwinds and a 9 foot tall, 6 feet wide airbrake hanging off the back and started to unhitch the trailer. Because the ground isn't flat, needed to put the suspension on high and while it did it, it took a very long time which isn't normal. Parked the car and thought no more about it until Sunday morning when it had dropped very low and wouldn't raise up. Left it running with the doors open for a good 20 minutes closed the doors and nothing, still sitting on the floor. No faults and the Nano showed that everything was doing as it should but it seemed the tank was empty and wasn't filling. Checked and found all the air coming out of the exhaust pointing to a split diaphragm.

Fortunately my mate had a spare valve block. When he bought his car the EAS had been fitted with a manual inflation kit and the valve block was doing nothing. He'd rebuilt the valve block and compressor but when I came down a while ago to re-instate the EAS it didn't work so we fitted a spare that I'd bought down with me just in case (pinched off the SE). At the time we'd blamed the driver pack so the valve block had been bunged in his shed. Pulled mine out, swapped the driver packs over and fitted his block with my driver pack. Still nothing even though the pump was doing it's job and there seemed to be air there. Then noticed something odd. Although the Nano showed rear valves open, there was nothing in the rear springs, not only that but when the car was turned off and it tried to level, the tick, tick, tick from the valve block caused the front to rise slightly. Huh? It shouldn't do that??

Came to the conclusion that his valve block had been apart in the past and someone had got the solenoids mixed up so what it thought it was doing and what it was really doing were two completely different things. Which would explain resorting to manual fill valves. So we took the block out again, Swapped driver packs over again, took the end bit where the diaphragm lives off and removed the split diaphragm, did the same with his block and fitted the new diaphragm from his block into mine. So I've got my driver pack and my valve block but with a diaphragm without a split. Valve blocks have been in and out so many times now, I think it would jump out on it's own if asked! Not fun in 28 degree heat though.

Fortunate that he had the valve block.otherwise I think it would have been a bit of creative RTV work to seal it enough to get me home. I'm bringing his old block back and will try to work out which solenoid goes where so it becomes a known good worker. All good fun, just got his heater O rings to sort now (not that a heater is actually needed here and probably won't be for another 5 months or so)......

davew wrote:

As for 'cold calls' my assumption for some time is if you 'press "X" to be deleted from their lists' they then just sell your number on
as 'live'.... Many calls now are just (deliberately) presented as "INTERNATIONAL" and so can't really be Caller ID blocked of course:
Needs sorting by BT, don't hold your breath !

I got one a couple of hours ago. cold call from a company doing a consumer survey. I've had these before, it will only take a couple of minutes but their definition of a couple is wildly different to mine..... The number that came up on my phone was a UK mobile number (07481 141993 if anyone fancies setting up an autodialler to it). He asked me to confirm if my name was Richard Gilbert, then could I confirm that my phone number was the one he'd just called me on, then asked me to confirm if my postcode was PEx xxx and then asked what age range I fell into. Told him that as today is the 25th and the EU GDPR regulations have now come into force, he had no right to have, let alone use, my personal details and they should be deleted immediately. The reply I got was rather surprising, I'm very sorry to have troubled you sir, your details will be deleted and we won't call you again. We'll see if it happens.

On the cruise, pull off the pipe that goes to the brake pedal and try blowing down it. You shouldn't be able to but it's fairly certain you will be able to. It splits where it goes through the bulkhead. There are no lights on the steering wheel, or on the dash from memory (mine doesn't have cruise), only the light on the switch to show you have switched the pump on (but that won't light up if the bulb has blown).

I remember someone posting that they'd got a new sensor and mounting bracket and couldn't work out which way round it went (or something like that) don't remember who it was though.

Found it, but he was talking about rear sensors https://rangerovers.pub/topic/684-height-sensors

That is my last resort. I bought the tyres through MyTyres, had them delivered to the place that I use for MoT tests and they fitted them. I know the owner, have done for years, we grew up together in the same street, went to school together, and I will often drop in for a chat anyway. I can just imagine the amount of amusement it is going to cause when the bloke who normally does everything himself goes in complaining he can't do something as simple as change a wheel. I'll never live that one down.....

That's my normal method, sit on the floor and stamp it alternate sides. Did that first before trying to get more brutal with it.

Tried the big block of wood on the rim and a club hammer, didn't shift. Considered the slackening off the nuts and driving it but figured it wasn't such a sensible idea when I need it to tow a huge trailer 950 miles on Friday night/Saturday. Even tried a 6 foot long, 1.5 inch diameter steel tube between the spokes on the wheel and tried to lever it off, that just bent the tube..... Lots of pressure from the jack, blocks and pole didn't work, not even when I started with the block of wood and club hammer while there was pressure on it.

So, I put the nuts back on, torqued them up and took it for a drive. The diff I took out must have been far worse than it appeared, it's damn near silent now and I'm sure it feels like it drives smoother. Just got to hope if I get a puncture somewhere it isn't on the offside rear but sods law says it will be.

So how do I get a wheel off? Been out this evening to fit a nice new, or rebuilt anyway, rear diff from that nice Mr Ashcroft. Simple enough job, rear axle on axle stands, rear wheels off, rear prop disconnected from the diff and tied up out of the way, hubs pulled out far enough to disengage from the diff, undo the bolts, pull old diff out and slot new one in. However, when I went to take the rear wheels off, the nearside one came straight off but the offside one is seized solid to the hub. Got the diff changed by undoing the bolts on the hub from underneath and pulled the hub clear with wheel still attached. Now it's all back together I figured I should really get the wheel off and clean up the centre hub spigot just in case I need to change the wheel at the roadside. All wheels were last off just before Christmas when the new tyres were fitted so, even though I've done about 12,000 miles since then, I would have expected them to all come off easily enough. It's not like they've been on there welding themselves on for years.

Currently it's sitting outside with a couple of blocks of wood, a jack and a length of steel tube between the two rear wheels in the hope that constant pressure will force it of but I'm not holding my breath. I want to take it out and listen to a rear diff that doesn't whine on the overrun and throw oil all over the underside of the car from the front seal but I'd rather get the wheel off, cleaned up and put back on first. Any advice?

Replacing the door speakers is also a good upgrade. The original ones may have been state of the art 20 years ago but modern speakers are much better. I replaced the main ones in mine with JBL Studio 600C (now replaced with the 600CE) speakers and the difference was astounding. Having used a car with a fully working DSP system, my view is it's good, for a 20 year old system, but not that much better than the standard system in any modern car and certainly not up to the standard of the Bose, etc systems fitted in more upmarket motors.

Nano Evo every day and will pay for itself in no time compared with taking it to an Indie to get faults read. If you get the one for a diesel, although it won't do the engine codes and adaptive resets on GEMS or Thor petrol engines, it will still do all the other stuff (ABS, SRS, HEVAC, EAS, etc). I've used my GEMS one on Thor and diesel for the other systems and worst case for the other engines just use a £30 from eBay generic OBD code reader. Should you ever change to a different one, then it's just an extra £50 or so for the extra licence.

I know someone with the iCarsoft which claims to do everything until he tried to use it on a P38 and found it did nothing other than engine. The free RSW EASUnlock V3 works very well on the EAS alone but when he announced the paid for V4 I noticed it had a tab for the HEVAC but nothing else. I emailed him and he told me it was a work in progress and would be added as and when he got around to it. Whether it has or not I've no idea but something on a laptop is still not as convenient as the Nano which can live in your glovebox for the day you need it.

Mine had no discernable slack at 250k + when I swapped the front axle but the ones on the SE had enough slack for an MoT fail at 130k.