Sent to me by a mate and I thought it worth sharing:
Morat wrote:
See you on Friday, Simon! (I'll get that photo of the LPG injector plug when it stops pissing down)
Have you broken it already?
Don't think so, lots of power for nuts and bolts doesn't fit well with a power screwdriver. I must admit, I've used a standard battery drill for smaller nuts and bolts, particularly when there's lots of them all the same size.
But I think you've got your priorities all wrong with this new house. Surely the list of priorities should go:
Although I have a sneaking suspicion that Mrs Morat may have different priorities......
I assume this new house will have a double garage with sufficient headroom to install one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-POST-LIFT-CAR-VEHICLE-RAMP-LIFT-HOIST-3-5-T-3500KG-TWO-POST/253473094034
That's actually the same unit I bought and took down to France for my mates workshop and 8 years later it is still working fine (I think in 8 years they've got cheaper too!).
I'll second the 18V DeWalt XR Lithium if you want a combined drill/screwdriver. Unlike the earlier NiCd or NiHM versions, the Li-Ion batteries are less prone to dying and charge a lot quicker too. As for impact driver, I've got a Clarke CIR450C (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir450c-12-drive-24v-impact-wrench/) but it's crap. It's OK for spinning bolts out but if they are tight they need to be slackened off with a breaker bar first, so go with the recommendations from others.
It's 13mm for the nut but that's a very good point. I might have to bung a spanner in the Jiffi bag too. As for NorAuto Brian, think Halfords but with nothing more complicated than an oil filter or brake pads and even then, only for recent, French built, cars. They will sell you tyres though, provided you order them as you can guarantee the size you want won't be in stock (that'll take a week, maybe two....) , and fit them out the back although balancing them seems to be an art they have yet to master.
Look what I managed to acquire today, free of charge too!
Teri, it'll be in the post tomorrow.......
I assume they are the same or at least very similar on the Range Rover Classic which probably explains why both were missing on mine......
Just got to find the nut and bolt. Called in today at Avenger 4x4 and showed him a picture of what I wanted. No chance was the answer. When he breaks a car for spares he throws all the wiring looms into a big bin and weighs it in for the scrap copper. He weighed a load in on Monday....... He suggested looking for BMW in a breakers as it was BMW era when the car was built so they may well have the same terminal.
It appears that the pumps are the same except for the colour of the connector which would explain the different part numbers. It's always possible that they are different internally but they are all interchangeable so I've always assumed them to be the same. Thanks for the offer of a decent non-return valve, PM sent with my address.
I've got a couple of breakers in my area, I'll have a look and see if I can find the bolt and funny shaped nut and drop them in the post to you. Simple enough to fit, you should be able to do it yourself.....
All 3 pumps are the same and you will hear the pump whirring away if it is still working. I got my rear washer working a couple of weekends ago but it looks like the motor factor generic non-return valve isn't up to the job as I need to hold the button in for about 10 seconds before anything gets as far as the nozzle if it hasn't been used for a while. Problem I've got now is that it needs adjusting as it washes the road behind me rather than the rear screen......
£20 + postage just for a nut and bolt is a bit steep. I'll see if I can find a D2 in a breakers locally. If they rust as fast as the D1 I shouldn't have to look that hard.
If you are unlucky you'll cause an air lock in the manifold. A better option is to run a small diameter hose from the outlet on the manifold back to the header tank so you effectively bypass the throttle body heater but still allow the coolant to flow as if it was still there..
Neg is fine, it's a standard clamp type, it's the positive that has lost the bolt and conical nut. Question now is, does anyone know where to get the bolt and nut and she'll be sorted?
If it going down because it is self levelling, then taking the EAS timer relay out will stop that happening. The, unless you have any leaks, it will stay up and the reservoir will stay filled.
If it's only noticeable at idle it's more likely that it's dropping down to 7. Not got a big dollop of slush sitting on the ignition coil by any chance?
It hasn't been cut off Chris, it's missing the bolt to clamp it onto the battery terminal. The difficulty is that unlike than all the others the battery terminal isn't on the cable to the fusebox but on the one to the starter. I don't think Maplin are in France (and they've just gone bust anyway) so any bits would have to come from their equivalent to a DIY store.
Dunno, looking at the clamp I would have thought it's some sort of cone that goes on the top to squeeze the sides together. I think I've seen something similar on something like a Renault but can't be sure.
No, I filled up at Flogas just down the road from where you work and asked them what was going on. There was an explosion at a refinery in Austria just before Christmas which has reduced supply. They reckon that wouldn't normally be a problem but with the cold weather they are flat out delivering to household customers using LPG for heating which they are obliged to treat as a priority. It wouldn't look good if pensioners started dying of hypothermia as they had no heating because the drivers are spending all their time at filling stations so we can run around in our V8 powered motors on cheap fuel. The guy there said that although filling a bulk tank is quicker than using the pump at a filling station, it still isn't quick so when they have multiple domestic customers and limits on their driving hours, the punter takes priority.