blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Thanks Gilbert. So anymore than 30mph in 4th is gonna nuke it then?

No more than travelling at 80 mph in high ratio with the radiator partly blanked off would. The only thing with using low ratio is that the engine is spinning at normal cruising revs but there'll be less airflow through the rad so it might start to get a bit warm. But, if it's possible to travel at 30 mph in low ratio, you probably don't need to use low ratio anyway. I used it the other week to drag a 2+ tonne trailer up the side of a mountain (which the car can manage easily in high without the trailer) and 15 mph was about the maximum I achieved.

Book it in with Simon. He may be a bit of a trek for you but if he can't sort it nobody can. It's going to be cheaper than the £400-500 you'd need to spend on a decent quality front end.

According to the spec in RAVE, overall final drive ratio in high in 4th gear is 3.13:1 and in low is 8.43:1. So as 3,000 rpm is around 80 mph in high, 3,000 rpm in 4th calculates to 29.7 mph which sounds about right from my experience.

The difficulty in getting into 1 may be down to the cable being a bit stiff rather than adjustment. If it is you'll get it so you can get into 1 but then can't get into P. All 3 of mine move nice and easily over the full range though.

I always used to struggle with a pair of pliers, or even Mole grips on the bigger sizes, when removing and refitting CT clips. Then I had to do a job on Dina's Merc and there was one about 4 inch diameter with no way of getting pliers in there to it. Went out and bought the proper tool (from Machine Mart I think) the same as the one linked to and have used it hundreds of times since as it makes things so much easier.

Mine does it too, just occasionally, and has done for at least the last couple of years.

That looks more like rusty water has been dribbling out of the O rings to me. Knob is missing from the HEVAC too so basically the climate control doesn't work at all.......

I don't suppose you know anyone with a radio scanner do you? The fob should transmit on 433.92 MHz or thereabouts and a scanner will pick it up easily. When playing with the fob for my SE I noticed that the buttons have two poles so are in effect 2 switches in one. If only one is making contact, the LED comes on but it doesn't transmit.

Ahh yes, change Parking for Park and it makes sense now. However, that does confirm the receiver is working just that it is not receiving the correct code. As it did work and doesn't any more, it has to be a sync problem, it can't be the wrong lockset code stored in the BeCM or anything like that. Does the central locking work when the EKA is entered?

and for the £50 all they will likely do is try the sync in the door lock method so you would be looking at a trip into the workshop as you've already tried that and it didn't work. Not sure what you mean by the parking lights coming on, but if you mean the interior lights are coming on it is seeing the correct code but not tripping the central locking or immobiliser. Odd.....

As the Sport button is just a momentary press you'd need to check to see what conditions it sends on the two MES lines. Assuming it just sends grounds or +ve signals and not data, then it is possible you could arrange a momentary operated relay to apply the correct signals as soon as the engine starts (taken from the alternator the same as the HEVAC uses). You'd need to be able to disable it or you'd have probems in low range though.

No idea how you'd be able to do it with the recirc though without a pneumatic finger to poke the button although maybe it would be possible to set the recirc blend motors to the correct mode then disconnect them. It'd give you a permanent book symbol on the HEVAC though.

Personally I'd have gone for Valtek 34s as they seem to be better that the Type 30s but a bit late now. Did you fit the correct sized nozzles when you fitted them? Easy way to check is to look at the map in the LPG software. As you've done an autocal it will have set itself correctly but the numbers want to be between 120 and 150 signifying that the gas injector times are between 1.2 and 1.5x the petrol injector times. Higher than that and the nozzles are too small.

The cutting back to petrol or losing power when held at full throttle for any length of time is a symptom of the gas pressure dropping. Most likely you are using it faster than it can get to the reducer. It could be that the manual valve on the tank isn't fully open or the pipe between the tank and reducer has been clouted and squashed partly flat.

When running normally you are picking up liquid from the tank which is turned to vapour in the reducer. As there are no baffles in the LPG tank, when getting low and with lots of cornering, the pickup pipe can come out of the liquid and be picking up vapour. That will also cause the pressure to drop as you can't turn vapour into vapour when it already is.

But, bottom line is as Morat says, if running correctly there should be no dicernable difference between running on gas and running on petrol.

You buy it and I'll go fetch it and trailer it down to you for £200.......

I'd get there when I say I would too unlike the bunch that delivered your last one. Well, within a couple of hours anyway.

I suspect if you went into a dealers and waved pound notes around you would be able to specify whatever you wanted whether they called it an Autobiography or not.

and this is the result......

For some reason it seems the forum software doesn't like gifs.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/01/82/5e/01825e981b49caaa693395ca637376db.gif

C'mon then, you obviously survived as you've posted on other threads. So how did it go or did you bottle it?

God that looks rough. Chassis may be good but I hate to imagine what the top of the bulkhead and body mounts are like. Although it isn't far from me if you want me to give it the once over. Having owned one, I know exactly where a Classic rusts.......

Certainly is worth checking although my 98 will sync even with passive immobilisation turned off, I think it was only on the later (99 onwards) cars that don't. Easy way to check if it is on or off is to unlock the car, open a door but wait for over a minute before trying to start it. If, when you try to start it, it won't turn over but comes up on the dash with Press Remote or Enter Code, it is on, if it starts normally, it is off. Later ones with it on will cause the LED on the fob to flash as soon as you put the key in the ignition so doing it for you. I lived with it on for over 5 years and just got into the habit of pressing unlock on the fob before trying to start the car and only turned it off when I bought the Nano. I still sometimes press unlock out of habit.

Sounds like you have the same quirk as I found on the Ascot (HSE, silver one, whatever). That is also using an OMVL Millennium with R90E and taking it's lambda reading from one of the 5-0V sensors. Got it all set up and running fine but then left it idling for a long time and got too rich and too lean errors. At idle the sensor stops giving an output but the GEMS petrol system runs open loop at idle so it doesn't matter. However, the Millennium sees a lean output so starts to move the Default to compensate until it reaches 255 and can't go any further. That flags the lambda too lean error. Then when you drive it, it's running rich so flags a too rich error. What I did was adjust the R90E to get the default the same at idle and out of idle then used the default lock to hold it there. Set the actuator limits to +-40 out of idle and +10, -30 at idle so it will keep the emissions down at MoT time. I also turned off the too rich and too lean diagnostics but left the lambda fail dagnostic enabled. I suspect this is why some people have said that they don't work too well using the original 5-0V sensors and why mine has a separate 0-1V sensor fitted in one downpipe solely to drive the LPG system.

If the LED on the fob works then that is fine but if you have the newer receiver they may have better selectivity but they aren't as reliable as the earlier versions and do fail. I've come across one on a car that I maintain for the owner and Marty has had a few in for repair. If you can get hold of another receiver, any type will do, and that works then that proves the receiver. On the one I maintain everything seemed to be working fine but it would simply not sync. Took the earlier receiver out of my car and put that in and it synced immediately (although I did have to turn passive immobilisation back on in the BeCM before it would sync). Took my receiver out and put the orignal one back in and nothing. A couple of weeks later (when I was next there), I put an earlier receiver in and didn't even have to sync again, it just worked.

Has the fob ever worked? If not, you don't know if it is even the correct one for the car. Although it should sync in the ignition, most of the older ones don't. I've currently got a 96, a 97 and a 98 and none of them do. Does the LED on the fob flash? It should flash slowly when you press the button and, if you keep the button pressed, flash faster after a couple of seconds. To sync in the lock you put the key in the door lock, turn to lock and hold it there, while holding it there, press the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button and return the key to the centre position. Then repeat but in the unlock position and using the unlock button on the fob.

As OB says, if the blue wire on the receiver has been disconnected it may be that the signal from the fob isn't strong enough for the receiver to pick up the signal when the fob is in the door lock or it may simply be that the receiver has been completely disconnected or has died.