Welcome Hugh, and a good call on the LPG conversion. When it only costs £35 to fill the tank, you'll find you don't think twice about using it as often as you can. You're about 10 months late or you could have joined in the Summer Camp headlining replacement production line but it's simple enough as long as there is a couple of you.

Have a word with Simon. He may be quite a distance from you but if you dive in and do the donkey work, it'll get done quicker. Alternatively, you could install the tank and even pull the inlet manifold and drill and tap for the nozzles. Once tapped stick an M6 bolt in each hole so it'll still run on petrol but is ready for the bolts to be removed and the nozzles fitted.

Yup, you're right. To use a gauge it needs to go on port 6 which is the line to the reservoir.

You won't need the vignette then. I'm in Belgium middle of next month (Saint-Hubert, almost into Luxembourg) and then a round trip to the south of France, western France then back at the end of the month. If you are running LPG, it's stupidly cheap in Belgium!

If you look at the lenses you can see the moulded triangle that you need to mask off. Not only does black tape work well but it also is very visible so reduces the chances of getting pulled and checked. Where are you going? If driving through Paris, Lyon or Grenoble, you'll need your emissions vignette too. On your list of needs you've got front shock. I've got a pair of used but good front Boge original shocks if they are of any use to you.

Fuse 38 supplies the headlamp wash/wipe but also feeds the alarm sounder. Relay 11 switches the headlamp wash/wipe on so pulling that should stop them. Sticky things go in the same place as the masks I use but best to try them against a garage door to make sure they are doing their job before sticking them on permanently. Although a bit of black tape is cheaper.......

I do more miles on the wrong side of the road than over here so I leave my lights permanently masked. The deflectors are OK but rip the headlamp wiper blades to shreds and, as you will be driving though the night and using the windscreen washers to clear the dead bugs, you'll be using them. Initially I used tape but again that doesn't do the wipers a lot of good and ultimately the wipers pull the tape off, so I now just use paint. Even then, the wiper eventually removes the paint from the LH light. Masks as below will give you a horizontal cut off on the lights which I don't find to be a problem over here as they are pretty good anyway.

RH headlight

LH headlight (which needs doing again in the next couple of weeks before I'm on the wrong side of the Channel again)

Because it's the easiest place to get to the pipework. Diagram below

Or,if just doing it as a test,remove the timer relay and leave it out. You only need replace it with a 4 pin relay if you intend leaving it out if you only want the EAS to work with the ignition on.

That'll do it nicely. In fact with 30m you could probably replace all the pipes. Those blue ended joins usually leak anyway but if you put an extra O ring in so there's two at each end they do work. Alternatively get the genuine LR ones, nearly a tenner each but have two O rings each end and do work well.

If you have the memory seats you will also have the memory mirrors so they are the ones with a 13 way plug and have the auto dipping feature when you select reverse. If you don't have memory seats, then you don't have memory mirrors so they only have a 6 way plug.

Their prices are ridiculously cheap for some things but you can easily see the difference in quality when you look. My indicator side repeaters were cracked and faded so I bought some Britpart ones to put on after it was resprayed. You can see the difference when you put them side by side with the originals but once fitted only a concours judge would spot it. Same for washer nozzles, one of mine was cracked where the pipe attaches and was leaving a puddle of screenwash on one rocker cover. Britpart washer nozzle looks fine but doesn't give two nice jets of water but two garden sprinkler sprays. But for under a fiver what do you expect?

I tried Google Images too and it doesn't like the URL so doesn't show the photo. I'm using Imgur too, free and loads of storage. In fact, even my animated gif avatar is a link to it on Imgur.

Simple enough to fit a Schrader valve. It needs to go in the larger (8mm?) pipe from the EAS valve block and the air dryer. You'll need one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-PUMP-INFLATION-BYPASS-VALVES-ANR3731-8mm/253056830545 and an 8mm Tee similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Air-Suspension-Airline-Fitting-TEE-section-2-5-TD-4-0-4-6-V8/271266895363 (that one is 6mm). You should be able to get what you need from somewhere that supplies pneumatic fittings. The plastic bodied connectors with the blue plastic collets can be a pain to get to seal (so by trying to identify leaks you end up putting more in there) but work OK if you put an extra O ring in each port so there's two like all the other joints in the EAS system.

You have to open a (or some of the) corner valve(s) and then the inlet valve (while the corner valve is still open) to allow air to flow from the reservoir, through the inlet valve and the individual corner valve.

You need to have the ignition on to connect to the EAS ECU too.

Use the Nano to run the pump for about 7-8 minutes (EAS, Diagnostics, Outputs, Pump On) to fill the reservoir. Then in the same Outputs tab, Open a valve, then click on Open Inlet. This will send air from the reservoir to whichever corner you have opened the valve on. Once up to height, close the inlet valve and the valve for the one corner. You can lift a corner at a time or all at once. I find it's best to open both front valves then Inlet so the front rises, Close the Inlet and both front valves and then do the same for the rear.

Don't forget, he said that the switchpack is buggered so he can't operate the sunroof with the motor, only the manual method with a big screwdriver through the interior light hole. When you use that it disengages the motor so it isn't possible to set it as the switches are in the motor which isn't turning. Quick fix to stop the sunroof open warning is to use a Nano to go into the BeCM settings and tell it that it doesn't have a sunroof. That assumes you've got a Nano of course......

When I bought my Classic I had to let it idle for a good 20 seconds before the oil pressure light went out. Changed the oil and filter and it went out immediately. Looking at the Britpart filter I'd taken off and there was no non-return valve so while standing overnight the oil was draining back to the sump. When I bought the SE, the seller told me it had recently had a new water pump and radiator. The pump started to leak after under 2,000 miles and the radiator a couple of hundred miles later. For bits of trim and non-critical parts, they may be OK but I wouldn't use anything that has a bearing in it or is likely to stop the car (or do damage to anything else) when it fails.

OK, so I've just fitted a Britpart AC condenser to mine but it's fairly easy to get out and with a 2 year warranty I may never have to buy another everagain. I'll just need to change them every 18 months.......

The problem with Pistonheads these days is that while it used to be inhabited by people with a practical interest in cars, these days it's full of diesel BMW drivers with their cars on PCP or those with so much money they don't even consider getting their hands dirty (even if they had the knowledge to do it).