blueplasticsoulman wrote:

When i turn the key, the only thing that happens is the radio restarts and the leds on the gear shift go out and come back on.

That's as the relay in the BeCM drops out to disconnect them so the keyswitch is working and telling the BeCM that you are turning the key. As long as it is in Park or Neutral, the BeCM then sends an earth from pin 2 of C1282 (a White/Red wire) which goes to one side of relay 16 with the other side having power on it from fuse 40. That should operate the relay and send 12V to the starter solenoid. Putting a jumper between pins 1 and 5 of the relay socket should cause the starter to spin. If it doesn't, it's the starter (or the connections to it).

That's what I was thinking but as this was a freebie and a decent spec 4G/Wifi tablet isn't cheap, I think I've just got to live with it's shortcomings. It runs BBC iPlayer (through Hola VPN so it thinks I'm in the UK) and Mobdro so lets me watch TV on it when I'm out of the country and the battery life seems pretty good too (probably because it is such low spec). The language thing is really annoying though. My phone changes to local time when I'm abroad but not the language too. Oddly, it seems to be a French thing as I don't remember it changing to Latvian when I was there over new year.

It'll only flash in the ignition if passive immobilisation is enabled, if you've had it disabled then it won't. Does sound like a starter motor problem to me. You could try giving it a whack with something heavy in case it is brushes down to the limit, a bit of percussive maintenance can shift them just enough. Do you get absolutely nothing or can you hear the starter relay click in? Don't confuse this with the click from the relay in the BeCM that drops out during cranking.

I'm completely new to Android and tablets but I have recently acquired (free gift) an Alcatel Onetouch Pixi 3 (8) tablet running Android 5.1.1. I know it isn't the best or fastest and have had to delete and re-install stuff on it twice now as by the time Android is running there is only 4Gb of storage left for apps. I set it to save these to the SD card but it still insists on putting some of them in main memory. But, I figured it would do for my two main uses for it, running a radio station app (PlanetRock) so I can connect the headphone socket to my car stereo line in and keeping track of my expenses when driving through Europe.

The language is set for English (UK) but as soon as I get into France and am connected to a French network, the default language changes to French. This doesn't affect the radio station app but I also use Excel for the expenses and that also changes to French. If I change the language back to English (UK) in Settings, Excel remains in French. At one point it was in French but when I went in to the language settings, it told me that Langue was Anglais (UK)???? How can I lock the language so it doesn't change when I move to a different country?

Second problem is that I can have Excel open and enter my data as I need to but as I also have the radio station app open, I need to show that. When I want to enter data in Excel, I touch the bottom right square to show open apps, touch Excel and it opens but it doesn't open as I last left it, it seems to re-open from scratch with data previously entered missing. I've now been told that I am opening recently used, and not open, apps and as it only has 1Gb of RAM, it has booted Excel out of memory. Is there any way around this?

Is it possible to have two 'live' apps running at once so I can switch between the two or do I just revert to my previous method of writing expenses on a scrap of paper and updating the Excel spreadsheet later?

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88880/89117/7021/89136 although it does appear in the body electrics section rather than bodywork which is where I initially looked for it

Bearmach and Allmakes are the two that I've used bits from and never had a problem. A lot of the stuff they sell is OEM anyway.

From the way that filter/solenoid is mounted, I doubt if anyone has ever cleaned or changed the filter element. You never know, it could be clogged solid.....

No problem with LPG on ferries as long as there is a shut off valve at the tank is what their rules say. I defy anyone to find an LPG system that doesn't have a shut off at the tank (unless someone has removed the guts from the solenoid valve at the tank of course) so not a problem. The same rule applies to underground car parks in a lot of European countries too.

Eurotunnel were asked a few years ago why they will allow people to fill their trains with stinky diesel fumes but those of us running on something far cleaner (and superior) weren't allowed on. The answer from them was that at the time the tunnel was built, LPG powered cars were so rare no risk assessment was ever done to deal with the consequences. So as they have no risk assessment, they have simply banned them. Not that we should be particularly bothered, Eurotunnel is boring (no restaurant or shop to wander around in), never runs on time and bloody expensive.

Orangebean wrote:

This kind of stuff is Gilbertd's area of expertise. Maybe he'll have some ideas, when he stops to take a breather on his latest road trip.

No time for a breather but I'm here now. Blimey, we are talking geriatric old crap that should have been to the nearest WEEE recycler years ago here. What's wrong with Bluetoothing to the stereo? As said, a car kit with built in transmitter next to a receiver with a barn door wide front end and the selectivity of an Essex girl after a night on the town, is asking for trouble. If you insist on using it, mount it as far away from the fob receiver as possible (inside the left front inner wing would be good)......

Too right, there's an awful lot of bad conversions out there, particularly ones done by the done in a day merchants. Mostly it's underspecced systems, reducers and vaporisers that aren't man enough for the job. In a lot of cases the MIL is always on and an owner will have got into the habit of switching to petrol to overtake (if the system doesn't do it for him). He'll accept this as his installer has told him it's normal on a converted car and as the bulk of his mileage is still done on less than half price fuel he's happy. That's when the old wives tales start and everyone assumes it's normal.

But, even then, with a bit of fiddling and maybe a set of injectors and a reducer at worst, it can be sorted for not a lot if you know what you are doing (or just take it to Simon.....).

I wouldn't consider putting £2800 into a car, not in one lump anyway although mine stands me at around £5000 over 7 years (although that does include a V8Developments top hatted and fully refurbed block). As for mileage, I'm setting off on another 2,000 miles in 4 days trip tomorrow having only recently done my 3,700 miles trip for new year. That's about 30 tanks of LPG at between 40 and 65p per litre in 3 weeks. Doing that kind of mileage on petrol isn't something I would even contemplate. Once set up right, as long as the components aren't worn out, the gas system will just work. In 7 years I've spent no more than £200 on it and that includes replacing the vaporiser last night (£80) as the old one was starting to show signs of needing a diaphragm so rather than mucking around, I just bunged a new one on. I'll plug the computer into it if I have reason to think it isn't 100% but other than that it's probably the most reliable bit of the whole car. No tinkering needed (although I do sometimes because I think I should and have run out of other things to tinker with).

Buying something that already has a kit on it, no matter how poorly installed and running, is still going to be cheaper than converting from scratch. You've already got the tank and pipework installed and even if you have to replace the whole front end it's still a lot less work. £3-400 at worst rather than over a grand. Of the 4 converted cars I've bought I've not been happy with the installation so have effectively removed and re-installed it anyway. In fact, 3 of those 4 were bought with a system installed which the seller said didn't work. All were running on gas within a couple of days.

I do that all the time. Bring UK registered cars back from France that have been there for years so have no MoT or tax and take the most direct route from Dover ferry port to my tame MoT testing station. That fact that I usually come over on a Sunday when he isn't open and have to drive straight past my house to get there, means I have a stop off on the way to the test on the Monday morning. There's so few police on the roads these days that the chances of getting stopped are pretty remote anyway. As long as I've added the car to my insurance policy so it doesn't ping up as uninsured on ANPR the chances of getting stopped are even less.

It's even more fun in something that has just been imported from the US so doesn't have any plates on it at all. Done that quite a few times and never been stopped in one of those either.

But, but, but, it's not on gas..... Smell of petrol on the oil filler is probably because it's been started from cold and then switched off again lots of times. It isn't likely to be going anywhere with no MoT.

If the pressure drops and it switches back to petrol when you boot it, it isn't getting enough gas. Could be a clogged filter, clogged solenoid or the pipe has been squashed flat under the car somewhere.

Morat wrote:

Moisture out of the tank... that's a new one for me.

For lots of other people too. I've seen reference to it (and done it) but can't seem to find it in RAVE. It involves removing a plug at one end of the tank but as it is full of compressed air, the system needs to be depressurised first.

I've used these on mine http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-lead-4046-9498-hls102xp-p-889.html so a set of the Thor ones like this http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-lead-4046-9802-hls103xp-p-461.html should be fine. A lot cheaper than Magnecors too.

I very much doubt a burnt valve but if swapping the rails didn't cause the problem to move, it sounds like an electrical problem. Two possibles spring to mind, the LPG injector circuit for the one injector has failed so instead of pulsing it just opens the injector and leaves it open, or you have a short on the injector cut (where the LPG system intercepts the pulse to the petrol injector) and it isn't shutting off the petrol injector so the one cylinder is dual fuelling. Do you have the software for the system so you can switch the offending cylinder back to LPG? If you do, set it so all cylinders are running on LPG and, while running, clamp the hose from the LPG injector to the manifold. If it carries on running normally, it is dual fuelling (so with the LPG feed clamped off it is still running on petrol), if that one cylinder stops firing then the injector is being told to bung much more gas in than it should by the controller.

Usually yes but not all. On a multipoint reducer it is often a screw in the centre of where the diaphragm would be.

The problem with this install would seem to be that the pressure is too high and needs to be reduced but the timings are about right (1.2-15x petrol injection times). If the pressure is reduced then the timings will need to increase to get the quantity of gas injected correct so it is likely that the injector nozzles are too small.

Only US spec P38s had downstream sensors, rest of world only have the two upstream ones. The Yanks worry if the cats aren't doing their job, we don't give a ......