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Sounds like you have a grounding issue with the amp install. You'll probably find it will only do it when the alternator is working harder so after starting when it is trying to put more back into the battery or when you have other things turned on to increase the load.

Aww Bugger, as far as I knew we were free that weekend but the events secretary has informed me that the weekend of the 4th-5th we've got a friend over from Holland for the weekend, so I'm out. I was convinced she was coming over the following weekend.

Must be clips as there's no bolts coming through the roof. Whether you'll get them out without breaking anything is another matter though, mine were just masked off (but my roof is in a bit of a state anyway with the filled holes where plod had the radio aerials and light bar mountings).

Disco 2 and later have the same PCD so you may be able to pick up some steelies on eBay.

Checked a few minutes ago and no Ignition Tamper or any other messages, so switching off the stat had had the desired affect. Googled the stat and found the manual for it. It should send a burst every 10 minutes not every 20 seconds so whether the batteries are getting low of it is getting offended because the boiler is off, I don't know. However, there's no handshake, it transmits blind so it shouldn't matter if the boiler is off anyway. A bit more investigation needed but even every 10 minutes is still about 12 hours too short, I would have thought a burst whenever it needs the boiler turning on or off would be sufficient.

Virtually all the stats work on 433 MHz, I've found a couple of newer ones that run on 868 MHz but I suspect most that are out there are on 433 so the same frequency as a P38. I think the Ignition Tamper may be something to do with the actual code that is being sent (which is configurable in the stat) so I'll try changing that to start with. The main problem is that the burst of data wakes up the BeCM so that instead of the car drawing around 20mA when standing doing nothing, it draws a couple of Amps so the battery can go flat when left for a while. You may even have had a P38 battery go flat while working on it and put it down to the doors being left open or the battery just being a bit tired but it could well have been your wireless thermostat that caused, or at least helped, contribute to it.

Not making that V8 rumble they haven't. What exhaust are you running David? It sounds wonderful.

You haven't got the stereo on have you? That sounds like alternator whine through a stereo usually caused when the bonnet earth strap isn't connected or an alternator suppressor isn't fitted (but there isn't one on a P38 anyway). Does it get louder if you turn the stereo up?

Found the source, an own goal, sort of. Checked the car this morning and still the same Ignition Tamper message. Got the spectrum analyser out of the works motor and found that my fob operates on 433.9675 MHz, but there was a very regular data burst on 433.9680 MHz so no chance of filtering that out. It was also very strong, like ridiculously strong, like -48dBm (for those that understand it) but weaker outside the house. House has a wireless thermostat fitted to the central heating system and it's that thing. Quite why it is sending a burst every few seconds even when the heating is switched off and the temperature is stable is anyone's guess but it is. Or it was, now I've taken the batteries out of it, it isn't. I'll need to look up how it is supposed to work, maybe it is expecting to get a reply from the boiler but as that is switched off it isn't so is constantly shouting to it.

There's other signals floating around in the band but at much lower levels so I suppose I now have to wait and see if has cured the Ignition Tamper message and will let the BeCM go to sleep and stay that way.

I work from home a couple of days a week anyway, a 15 minute job to do takes at least 3 hours to do the paperwork these days! Although it could be an amusing and simple case, or, better still, a really complicated one as the interference would go off whenever I went to investigate.

Got in it this morning and exactly the same, Alarm Triggered, Ignition Tamper. I'll try disconnecting the RF receiver for a couple of days to confirm it is an RF problem.

I thought about that as I have the capability of producing a considerable amount of power on the frequency. Then realised that it would affect me too.......

Now it is getting really weird. Found a receiver and tuned it to 433.95 MHz (which took some doing as most things are still in boxes) and found almost continuous bursts of data, so it looks like every neighbour for half a mile has a wireless weather station. Sat in the car and waited for the BeCM to go to sleep, which it did, but almost immediately the receiver picked up a burst of data and it woke up again. Then, while waiting to see if it would go back to sleep, the dash beeped at me and "Interior Lights Off" came up. Opened the door and sure enough, no interior lights. Turned them back on and left it for another day. Fortunately I've got the hoofing great Hankook battery on it so it won't go flat by morning but it definitely looks like I'm going to be in the market for a Gen 3 receiver.

We moved house over the weekend and spent our first night in the new place on Saturday. Sunday morning got in the car, turned the ignition on and the Message Centre came up with, Alarm Triggered, Ignition Tamper. Never seen that one before but didn't think too much about it. Got into it this evening and it came up with the same message. As I've not heard the alarm for quite some time checked it earlier by locking the car with one window open then pulling up the sill button and opening the door. Sounder is definitely working and I think I would have heard it as the car was parked under the bedroom window which was wide open (humping furniture on the hottest weekend since records began is not a fun game). Owners handbook says that Ignition Tamper is caused by "turning the starter switch on was the cause of the alarm system triggering". To me this means that the starter operating on it's own would cause this and according to some on RR.net, the starter operating when it feels like it is a sign of a failing fusebox. Fusebox was changed for a brand new one about a year ago, so unlikely to be that and I think I would have heard the starter turning the engine over. Anyone else ever come across this one? I'll wait and see if it gives me the same message in the morning.......

Until you get the update for your Motronic you won't be able to sort out the idle but everything else works so you can have a play with the other systems. Just don't go changing anything in the BeCM.......

Although with your current record with computers I can foresee lots of questions coming up......

Iffy connection in the multiway connector in the LH footwell. The Ascot did it to me and it was losing supply to the lights so the one showing what height I was at would go out momentarily. That would cause it to beep and bring up the EAS fault warning but then the connection came back, all the lights would come on as it rebooted, just as it does when you first turn on the ignition and it carried on as normal until I hit another bump. I just chopped out the connector and soldered the wires straight through.

But we'd all starve!!!!!!!

It wouldn't be a Summer Camp without the barbecue master.

Only Switzerland? Not even trying.......

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Out of interest, I just checked the emissions printout from my test last year (next one isn't due for another month or so). CO was 0.4% on LPG. Which isn't bad considering the cats are nothing more than empty boxes.....

I may be in the market for new Y pipe fairly soon, it's not looking that pretty, although mine has joins just after the cats so can be changed simply enough with the crossmember in place. I'd prefer to replace with another the same but it seems it depends on who you get it from whether it's in one piece or three.

and me.....

Not that much tin worm, lots of measles but not much tin worm..... Not sure if they will come off with the sidesteps still in place but the sill trims pop off easily enough. If you take the rear mudflaps off the coloured infill on the rear bumper ends come out so can be sprayed separately.