Software needs to be told you've got 0-1v lambda sensors. Then you can check to see if the readings from the elm match what the software is showing. They may not be connected, the LPG system doesn't need them to be, it's just convenient to be able to see them on the screen rather than on a separate code reader.

We did but it's easier to refer to it as the Ascot as that's what the badge on the back says. Its got everything that an hse would have so is a high spec. Dina has named them anyway, mine is white man, the SE is big blue and the Ascot is that rather than just calling it the silver one.

Pretty unlikely I'll get anywhere close to 10k for the Ascot but I'll be happy with 1500..... Just had a proper look at the RPi one on eBay. Noticed no sat nav and then saw its a 98 but they are fitting a Thor? How's that going to work then?

So how much does that make the Ascot worth then? Air springs have been on it for under 2 years, valve block and compressor the same, blend motors changed or rerfurbed, heater o rings done, full service with all fluids changed, heated seats repaired, brakes checked and pins lubed, kick panel multiwsy connectors removed, front door latches replaced, grille and front bumper painted and everything else I could find that I wasn't happy with. Running perfectly on petrol and LPG too.

Having spent the last few weeks on the Ascot, doing everything I would do to it if I was to keep it myself, I finished the final job yesterday. That was removing, soldering and heat shrinking the connections in the footwells that used to go through the pretty green and hairy multiway connectors. At that point, other than waiting for the original stereo to come back from being refurbed at Clarion, as far as I was concerned I'd finished the mechanical and electrical work (just need to persuade BPSM to take a trip down to deal with the cosmetics now) and it was spot on. Everything, and I mean everything, now works exactly as it should.

But ideally, it needed a bit of a test. Daughter's Toyota MR2 has recently developed an evil wailing from the RH rear wheel bearing but a press is needed to remove the old one and press the new one in. Not too much of a problem as a mate has a workshop with a suitable press but he's only there during working hours. So I would need to remove the rear hub and get it down to him at a time when he would be there. As the Ascot was now sorted, I swapped cars with her last night confident that it would get her to work and back for the next couple of days and give me the time to pull her car to bits and get it back together again. At 8:50 this morning my phone rang. I've broke it, she said. She'd managed all of 50m from her driveway to the end of the road, the engine had died and now the message centre was telling her she had a gearbox fault, a traction failure, an ABS fault and the engine wouldn't restart. Got there and found that everything looked normal when the ignition was switched on, it was only when the key was turned to start the engine that the starter did nothing and the dash went blank. The negative battery terminal was loose. I can't remember when I last had the battery off but I obviously didn't do it up tight enough when I put it on. Tightened it up, jump started it from mine, checked that it was charging and she went off to work (and so far, hasn't broken it again).

What I don't understand is why then? Over the last few weeks I've used it a few times to run around in just to see if everything was working as it should. I've done a couple of hundred miles in it and never a problem. I've started it and had it idling for ages while doing other jobs and not once has it shown any signs of a problem. So why is it that the first time a woman used it, the damn thing dies?

Yes, thumbwheel is the manual vlve so you can remove the solenoid plunger if you feel the need. Yes, there's a non return valve in the inlet and another in the filler so all that will come out is the contents of the bit of pipe between the two.

To empty the tank do just as you said. Park the car somewhere windy and with no drains or hollows as Propane is heavier than air and will pool wherever it can (so on top of a hill is ideal). If you don't want the car to stink of Ethyl Mercaptan, the odorant that is put in Propane so you can smell a leak, attach a length of pipe to the outlet and run that to the outside of the car. Using a battery, switch and 20 feet of cable, open the solenoid and keep upwind of it (or you and your clothes will also stink for weeks). Using a switch is far less likely to cause a spark than dobbing a wire onto the battery. It'll take a while and look pretty spectacular as 1 litre of liquid will become 270 litres of vapour..... Don't worry about the cows though, it's nothing to the amount of Methane they produce.

No they won't, I thought the problem was only on petrol. If it's on both then it does point towards either an ignition problem but, as OB has already said, that would usually be worse on gas or a leaky injector. When you had the plugs out were any of them particularly blacker than the others? That would signify a rich mixture on that pot so could be down to one or two dual fuelling. As your gas system is only taking a lambda reading from one bank, if you've got a pot or two on the other bank running way out all will appear to be normal. I actually suspect that's what I've got. Mine takes the lambda signal from bank 2 and I'm pretty sure at least one injector on bank 1 is intermittently leaking petrol in there too so that bank always shows as running rich and at odd times it feels slightly down on power.

Have you reset the adaptives? If it's running rich on gas then it will have set the trims on petrol to attempt to lean it off, so it will run rough on petrol. The longer it has run on gas the worse it will get. For some reason when mine is run on gas one bank shows permanently rich while the other shows a correct mixture with the lambda flip flopping as it should. That makes the other bank adjust the trims to max lean and it will run rough when switched to petrol. Resetting the adaptives cures it and it runs fine until it has been run on gas again for a while.

Have you got a decent vice? Put a socket slightly larger than the hole of one side and something, a nut or whatever you can find, on the other side. Do the vice up tight and push it out. There's two chances, it'll start to move or you'll break the vice.....

I've just uploaded the LPGA (now UKLPG) Code of Practice to Google Drive for you https://drive.google.com/open?id=1q91-U9r6C5otXeuujL8WUldzoJ99tzfX

No requirement for electrical conductivity, and the pipe run needs to be located where it can be examined for damage, protected from damage and securely fixed. Although 6mm would probably suffice, I'd go with 8mm to be on the safe side. Using Polypipe is easy, that's why people use it.

Scrolling down the page expecting to find a damning report on how bad it is, Morat's post actually made me laugh out loud......

I'll be interested to see what the verdict is. My centre box is a Euro Car Parts special, just over a year old and seems to be holding up quite well although the Y pipe and rear sections are beginning to look a bit tired. ECP don't list the Y pipe but do a matching rear section that is pretty cheap as long as you use one of their x% off offers (35% this weekend).

Maybe it depends on what else is on the car. You've found that a combination of Terrafirmas and polys don't play well together but maybe they are OK with original bushes. I've got orange polys and Boge and that combination seems to work fine. If Robbo tries my front Boges then he can decide if he wants a pair of those or your Terrafirmas for the rear. I'm not selling them though, they are just taking up space in the garage in case I, or anyone else, needs them. Like I say, I doubt there's much life left in them as I suspect they are the originals so will have done the best part of 300,000 (ish, as I don't remember exactly when I changed them).

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

As if you've previously fitted Terrafirma's and didnt enlighten us.

I mentioned back in post #60 (at the bottom of the last page) that some people had said they made the ride a bit hard but you've just confirmed what I'd heard. I suppose if someone is putting them on a car that has been converted to coils they've never experienced the magic carpet ride and would think they were an improvement. I've got a pair of secondhand front Boges if you want to try those Robbo. I replaced my rears as one had leaked and figured that I should probably do the fronts as well but what I took off and what I put on didn't seem any different. I doubt there's that much life left in them though.

Mine do as well, makes changing the rear shocks dead easy. Be interested to hear what you think of the terrafirmas, some people have said they make the ride quite harsh which is why I stuck with original Boge.

From the picture it looks like there's a brass thing screwed in that the temperature sensor would push into. If you unscrew that does it leave the correct size threaded hole? The lack of male to male pipe to connect the inlet filter solenoid is a bit of a problem though but I suspect they expect you to mount the solenoid remotely and connect the two with a short length of copper pipe with nuts and olives on each end.

Ray recently found that his desiccant had turned to concrete (https://rangerovers.pub/topic/709?page=2) and was restricting the flow, maybe yours is the same?

Give them a bell, they are very friendly and don't bite. What you have doesn't look like any of the other Tomasetto reducers shown on their site, in fact, as you say, it does look very much like a Zavoli. Maybe just a bit of badge engineering or the two companies have become one.

On every one I've tried to remove, the nut has rusted so much that you can't get a socket to grip on it. When you do get something to grip (Irwin grip in my case) the whole thing rotates and chews up, or rips off, the plastic mounting lug. Admittedly I've never had to touch a front one it's always been rears that I've need to change. Maybe they are more exposed so rust quicker?

Assuming you can get them off without resorting to an angle grinder.......

Glad to be able to help. Not sure how they can be cheaper but they do seen to be across the board. I even checked my bike insurance and although that was only a couple of quid cheaper, it was still cheaper than I am paying. Being an old codger, the bike is insured with Saga!

Orangebean wrote:

Third party only quotes were on average £200 more than that. WTF?

I noticed the same thing so Googled to see why
https://www.moneysupermarket.com/press-releases/motor-myth-busted-fully-comp-cheaper-than-third-party-only/