Simple enough to fit a Schrader valve. It needs to go in the larger (8mm?) pipe from the EAS valve block and the air dryer. You'll need one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-PUMP-INFLATION-BYPASS-VALVES-ANR3731-8mm/253056830545 and an 8mm Tee similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Air-Suspension-Airline-Fitting-TEE-section-2-5-TD-4-0-4-6-V8/271266895363 (that one is 6mm). You should be able to get what you need from somewhere that supplies pneumatic fittings. The plastic bodied connectors with the blue plastic collets can be a pain to get to seal (so by trying to identify leaks you end up putting more in there) but work OK if you put an extra O ring in each port so there's two like all the other joints in the EAS system.

You have to open a (or some of the) corner valve(s) and then the inlet valve (while the corner valve is still open) to allow air to flow from the reservoir, through the inlet valve and the individual corner valve.

You need to have the ignition on to connect to the EAS ECU too.

Use the Nano to run the pump for about 7-8 minutes (EAS, Diagnostics, Outputs, Pump On) to fill the reservoir. Then in the same Outputs tab, Open a valve, then click on Open Inlet. This will send air from the reservoir to whichever corner you have opened the valve on. Once up to height, close the inlet valve and the valve for the one corner. You can lift a corner at a time or all at once. I find it's best to open both front valves then Inlet so the front rises, Close the Inlet and both front valves and then do the same for the rear.

Don't forget, he said that the switchpack is buggered so he can't operate the sunroof with the motor, only the manual method with a big screwdriver through the interior light hole. When you use that it disengages the motor so it isn't possible to set it as the switches are in the motor which isn't turning. Quick fix to stop the sunroof open warning is to use a Nano to go into the BeCM settings and tell it that it doesn't have a sunroof. That assumes you've got a Nano of course......

When I bought my Classic I had to let it idle for a good 20 seconds before the oil pressure light went out. Changed the oil and filter and it went out immediately. Looking at the Britpart filter I'd taken off and there was no non-return valve so while standing overnight the oil was draining back to the sump. When I bought the SE, the seller told me it had recently had a new water pump and radiator. The pump started to leak after under 2,000 miles and the radiator a couple of hundred miles later. For bits of trim and non-critical parts, they may be OK but I wouldn't use anything that has a bearing in it or is likely to stop the car (or do damage to anything else) when it fails.

OK, so I've just fitted a Britpart AC condenser to mine but it's fairly easy to get out and with a 2 year warranty I may never have to buy another everagain. I'll just need to change them every 18 months.......

The problem with Pistonheads these days is that while it used to be inhabited by people with a practical interest in cars, these days it's full of diesel BMW drivers with their cars on PCP or those with so much money they don't even consider getting their hands dirty (even if they had the knowledge to do it).

Door handles are handed and a different part number front passenger to rears so probably not.

On mine, being ex-plod, the Special Vehicles plate is on the removable slam panel so if it has ever had that changed it may have lost it. Black, or very dark grey to be precise, carpets and plastic seat bases would be right for the cloth seats fitted to most plod motors so it sounds like someone has swapped the seats at some point. Mine has a highline BeCM as it needs that for the front fogs and headlamp wash wipe although it didn't have cruise or trip computer (that was sorted by fitting a stalk with buttons and telling the BeCM it was fitted). Calibrated speedos were done by Instrument Repair Services of Nottingham and have a sticker with IRS Nottm and a serial number.

Calibrating the speedo is actually very simple, there's two pots on the top of the instrument cluster circuit board that deal with it. The mosfet driver that turns on some of the warning lights on mine started to die. Having no seatbelt warning light I could live with but when it spread to the alternator and oil pressure lights I figured I needed to do something. I got a spare cluster from a breaker and swapped the circuit boards over. The speedo then started to read like the ones in the SE and Ascot, an indicated 70 mph was really only 65 in real life. Called IRS and they sent me some very limited info but enough to allow me to tweak the pots to get mine spot on again.

Rimmers are excellent for service and next day delivery but a bit pricey. Island 4x4 and LRDirect tell you who supplies the parts rather than just Aftermarket as Rimmers do.

Anything that doesn't have a Britpart label on it.......

I've changed them in mine, the Ascot and the SE and never taken the centre console out. Take the sides off and you can get to them, fiddly but doable. Drivers ones are dead easy if you take the instrument binnacle out, they sit there looking up at you. Usual problem is either the motor goes sticky so takes too long to reach the end of the travel when it calibrates or the feedback pot wears a hole in the track so it reaches a certain point in the travel and stops as there is no feedback. Both can be fixed with a squirt of contact cleaner and, if it is the motor, blasting it with 12V. There's enough slack on the cables to allow you to pull them out and take them apart outside the centre console.

Robbo1 wrote:

Don't suppose we can sort the site so we can upload pictures directly into the posts.

I think that is something Gordon was looking into when photobucket started blocking images hosted there. Not sure how far he got though.

This is all we can see (Firefox under Windows 7)

There's a couple of downsides to swapping the timer relay. Diagnostics won't connect without it which isn't too important as long as you know and remember to swap it back in. The other problem is one of the reasons it is there in the first place. Say you've got the boot loaded up with stuff, you park up and unload so the car rises on the suspension as the weight is removed. With the timer in place as soon as you close the boot and all the doors, it then lowers itself down to normal height. With the relay swapped, there's no power to the ECU once the ignition is off so it doesn't drop and you end up with a car standing on stilts.

Not now.....

+1 on Boge. I've got a spare pair of Boge fronts if you can make use of them. They are used but still good. My car is on 16" wheels and the SE and Ascot are both on 18"s. There's a noticeable difference in ride. For the EAS, do you have a Nano or similar or a cable for the free EASUnlock software? Invaluable for faulting it.

I saw the thread title and expected it to be a subject for my morning spam deleting session but no, a genuine post. As a very successful businessman once said to me, I don't need to advertise, my competitors give me all the work I can handle. If we get a club area at Billing at the end of June, we may well recruit a few more members on here too. But as for RRTH, despite my lifetime ban and the statement that I wouldn't be able to register on there ever again as they had logged my IP address, I've registered on there with 2 more usernames. It was me that posted the info on the trimmer pots in the back of the instrument cluster in your temp gauge thread. I also contradicted him in Haggisbiker's thread about getting the radio code but didn't get the expected bollocking and post deletion, he just waffled on about some old dog he recently bought. Anyone else posting about anything other than a Range Rover would get their post deleted......

12.4V sounds a bit low for a decent battery. Slow cranking that speeds up is going to be either a dying starter solenoid or bad main power cables. Could be battery terminals, grounds, poor connection between the cable to the starter from the battery terminal any number of locations. But, unless it is cranking really slowly, it should still start.

The only ones I have ever seen are like this https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC8525BM, a semi-rigid plastic with 100mm sides, never seen one that goes right up and covers the sides too. That part number is the only one listed for a boot carpet protector although the H&H may have had something supplied by H&H so not a Land Rover part. Can't find the little tables that fit on the backs of the front seats in the parts listing either so they may well be unique.