Been playing with the SE as the weather was nice, I've run out of things to do on mine and having got the engine running nicely without peeing fuel out of the injector seals and the passenger central locking working again, I decided to check the current drain. The battery on it is completely FUBAR'ed and doesn't want to take or hold a charge so I just hang jump leads on it and use my spare battery to power it. The battery was a decent one when I put it on so aren't sure why it has now died but hung my meter on it to check the current drain. Closed everything and locked the car, current drawn was 900mA, after 30 seconds it dropped to 600mA and after 2 minutes when the BeCM went to sleep, it dropped to 100mA and stayed there. Left it for over half an hour and it was still drawing 100mA. So what is dissipating 1.2W permanently? Further investigation required but it seems to be too low for anything meaningful but high enough to drain the battery when left for a long time. Draining the battery to completely flat and leaving it like that is probably what killed it in the first place too.

And yes, I did disconnect the battery on it and was checking from my external battery only. Didn't to start with then realised I was measuring the current my decent battery was trying to put into the duff one as well as what the car was drawing.

That's the problem with buying a P38, or any car of this sort of age I expect. Faults will have cropped up in the past but you've no way of knowing if they were ignored, bodged or repaired properly (the latter being the least common option in my experience).

All bar one of the ones we did at Summer Camp were Oatmeal which is a perfect match for the Lightstone interior but Marty put the black suede in his. If you ask nicely, he might even post a picture of it.

If the pipes have got joints in them, especially the blue ended ones, then replacing them is a very good idea but also what you need to remember is that the car is now 19 years old. The air springs are made of exactly the same materials as tyres and you wouldn't want to run around on 19 year old tyres. If they look original they may well be and even if they aren't, they are likely to be ready for replacement. At £200 for a set of four from Island 4x4, it's probably the best 200 quid you'll ever spend. If it is dropping, even slightly, overnight, take the timer relay out from under the passenger seat when you park it. If it has dropped in the morning, chances are the springs are leaking.

We were at for for most of 2 days. A couple of guys taking the headlining shells out, my other half cleaning the remains of headliner, foam and glue off them, a couple more sticking the new material on and Morat trimming the excess off the edges before passing them back to the removal/refitting crew.

I doubt magnets will work to hold it up as there's probably at least an inch gap between the headlining shell and the actual roof. When my mate in France bought his P38 his wife thought it had ants crawling over the inside of the roof until she realised that it was hundreds of rusty staples holding the material up. The headlining shell is thin fibreglass with foam backed material glued to it. The foam starts to degrade with age so there is nothing between the glue and the material. Martrim (http://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) do a kit of the material and glue to do it yourself. For the Summer Camp we just bought 8 or 9 kits.

Welcome Hugh, and a good call on the LPG conversion. When it only costs £35 to fill the tank, you'll find you don't think twice about using it as often as you can. You're about 10 months late or you could have joined in the Summer Camp headlining replacement production line but it's simple enough as long as there is a couple of you.

Have a word with Simon. He may be quite a distance from you but if you dive in and do the donkey work, it'll get done quicker. Alternatively, you could install the tank and even pull the inlet manifold and drill and tap for the nozzles. Once tapped stick an M6 bolt in each hole so it'll still run on petrol but is ready for the bolts to be removed and the nozzles fitted.

Yup, you're right. To use a gauge it needs to go on port 6 which is the line to the reservoir.

You won't need the vignette then. I'm in Belgium middle of next month (Saint-Hubert, almost into Luxembourg) and then a round trip to the south of France, western France then back at the end of the month. If you are running LPG, it's stupidly cheap in Belgium!

If you look at the lenses you can see the moulded triangle that you need to mask off. Not only does black tape work well but it also is very visible so reduces the chances of getting pulled and checked. Where are you going? If driving through Paris, Lyon or Grenoble, you'll need your emissions vignette too. On your list of needs you've got front shock. I've got a pair of used but good front Boge original shocks if they are of any use to you.

Fuse 38 supplies the headlamp wash/wipe but also feeds the alarm sounder. Relay 11 switches the headlamp wash/wipe on so pulling that should stop them. Sticky things go in the same place as the masks I use but best to try them against a garage door to make sure they are doing their job before sticking them on permanently. Although a bit of black tape is cheaper.......

I do more miles on the wrong side of the road than over here so I leave my lights permanently masked. The deflectors are OK but rip the headlamp wiper blades to shreds and, as you will be driving though the night and using the windscreen washers to clear the dead bugs, you'll be using them. Initially I used tape but again that doesn't do the wipers a lot of good and ultimately the wipers pull the tape off, so I now just use paint. Even then, the wiper eventually removes the paint from the LH light. Masks as below will give you a horizontal cut off on the lights which I don't find to be a problem over here as they are pretty good anyway.

RH headlight

LH headlight (which needs doing again in the next couple of weeks before I'm on the wrong side of the Channel again)

Because it's the easiest place to get to the pipework. Diagram below

Or,if just doing it as a test,remove the timer relay and leave it out. You only need replace it with a 4 pin relay if you intend leaving it out if you only want the EAS to work with the ignition on.

That'll do it nicely. In fact with 30m you could probably replace all the pipes. Those blue ended joins usually leak anyway but if you put an extra O ring in so there's two at each end they do work. Alternatively get the genuine LR ones, nearly a tenner each but have two O rings each end and do work well.

If you have the memory seats you will also have the memory mirrors so they are the ones with a 13 way plug and have the auto dipping feature when you select reverse. If you don't have memory seats, then you don't have memory mirrors so they only have a 6 way plug.

Their prices are ridiculously cheap for some things but you can easily see the difference in quality when you look. My indicator side repeaters were cracked and faded so I bought some Britpart ones to put on after it was resprayed. You can see the difference when you put them side by side with the originals but once fitted only a concours judge would spot it. Same for washer nozzles, one of mine was cracked where the pipe attaches and was leaving a puddle of screenwash on one rocker cover. Britpart washer nozzle looks fine but doesn't give two nice jets of water but two garden sprinkler sprays. But for under a fiver what do you expect?

I tried Google Images too and it doesn't like the URL so doesn't show the photo. I'm using Imgur too, free and loads of storage. In fact, even my animated gif avatar is a link to it on Imgur.

Simple enough to fit a Schrader valve. It needs to go in the larger (8mm?) pipe from the EAS valve block and the air dryer. You'll need one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-PUMP-INFLATION-BYPASS-VALVES-ANR3731-8mm/253056830545 and an 8mm Tee similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Air-Suspension-Airline-Fitting-TEE-section-2-5-TD-4-0-4-6-V8/271266895363 (that one is 6mm). You should be able to get what you need from somewhere that supplies pneumatic fittings. The plastic bodied connectors with the blue plastic collets can be a pain to get to seal (so by trying to identify leaks you end up putting more in there) but work OK if you put an extra O ring in each port so there's two like all the other joints in the EAS system.

You have to open a (or some of the) corner valve(s) and then the inlet valve (while the corner valve is still open) to allow air to flow from the reservoir, through the inlet valve and the individual corner valve.