I can now report that a Britpart condenser doesn't leak when new. System was leak tested and re-gassed last week and it's still working. How long for is anyone's guess but you never know, there's no moving parts, so it might be OK.

I have always left the wheels on too and jacked up under the towbar. My 3 tonne trolley jack will go high enough to just get both rear wheels off the ground although having them dangling actually makes the job harder. Use the Nano to let the pressure out and they'll go floppy. You'll find getting the top clips out will be a real pain but as the air springs are shot anyway, there is the destructive method. Bend the top clip until it breaks off (which won't take a lot of doing as they will be rusted to hell anyway). Slide a 1" wood chisel between the chassis and body so it sits on the top of the airspring mount on the chassis and give it a good clout. That will chop the top off the airspring making getting it out much simpler and will allow you to drop the chopped off top through the mounting hole so you can disconnect the pipe from underneath.

Good point, no idea if it is a battery backed sounder or not but I know it works (managed to set it off twice while mucking around at the weekend). That's another thing to disconnect while the meter is measuring the current draw.

OEM should be OK as they are, or at least should be or they aren't OEM, made by the Original Equipment Manufacturer who supplied LR in the first place. It is those that are listed as aftermarket that you need to avoid. In fact, Bosch would be your best bet https://www.lrdirect.com/MHK100940-Sensor-Lambda/

No, standard 7 pin trailer socket, so no voltage sensing stuff anywhere. LPG system has been removed too as it's going to be sold on eBay as a spares or repair job and the LPG system is probably worth as much as the whole car will fetch. It's actually pretty good, has quite a few new bits on it but has a cracked windscreen and my trade policy doesn't cover windscreens and I don't fancy spending £525 for a new heated windscreen. We will be moving house in a couple of months too so shifting 2 P38's, Dina's Merc, my Maserati and company van as well as the contents of the house means at least the SE (and possibly the Masser) has to go.

In case anyone was wondering, I lent the Ascot to my boss before Christmas as his 55 plate Disco had died and he had no wheels. His Disco is still dead and he's running around in the Ascot although he has asked how much I want for it. Selling a 21 year old P38 to my boss could be either a good move or a severe career limiting move (but as I retire in a couple of years my career is unlikely to progress anyway).

Disconnecting the stereo and pulling fuses was going to be the next step. Stereo is an aftermarket Sony which used to have a Parrot bluetooth unit attached to it. That was wired the wrong way round so was permanently powered but I'd assumed since I took that out it should have been OK. Parrot unit had in and out DIN plugs and was just plumbed in between the car and the stereo but had the permanent and ignition switched feeds reversed.

Does it have a tow hitch? Of course it does, what's the point of a P38 without one? Although that is wired correctly or at least as correctly as needed for the trailer lights to work.

Been playing with the SE as the weather was nice, I've run out of things to do on mine and having got the engine running nicely without peeing fuel out of the injector seals and the passenger central locking working again, I decided to check the current drain. The battery on it is completely FUBAR'ed and doesn't want to take or hold a charge so I just hang jump leads on it and use my spare battery to power it. The battery was a decent one when I put it on so aren't sure why it has now died but hung my meter on it to check the current drain. Closed everything and locked the car, current drawn was 900mA, after 30 seconds it dropped to 600mA and after 2 minutes when the BeCM went to sleep, it dropped to 100mA and stayed there. Left it for over half an hour and it was still drawing 100mA. So what is dissipating 1.2W permanently? Further investigation required but it seems to be too low for anything meaningful but high enough to drain the battery when left for a long time. Draining the battery to completely flat and leaving it like that is probably what killed it in the first place too.

And yes, I did disconnect the battery on it and was checking from my external battery only. Didn't to start with then realised I was measuring the current my decent battery was trying to put into the duff one as well as what the car was drawing.

That's the problem with buying a P38, or any car of this sort of age I expect. Faults will have cropped up in the past but you've no way of knowing if they were ignored, bodged or repaired properly (the latter being the least common option in my experience).

All bar one of the ones we did at Summer Camp were Oatmeal which is a perfect match for the Lightstone interior but Marty put the black suede in his. If you ask nicely, he might even post a picture of it.

If the pipes have got joints in them, especially the blue ended ones, then replacing them is a very good idea but also what you need to remember is that the car is now 19 years old. The air springs are made of exactly the same materials as tyres and you wouldn't want to run around on 19 year old tyres. If they look original they may well be and even if they aren't, they are likely to be ready for replacement. At £200 for a set of four from Island 4x4, it's probably the best 200 quid you'll ever spend. If it is dropping, even slightly, overnight, take the timer relay out from under the passenger seat when you park it. If it has dropped in the morning, chances are the springs are leaking.

We were at for for most of 2 days. A couple of guys taking the headlining shells out, my other half cleaning the remains of headliner, foam and glue off them, a couple more sticking the new material on and Morat trimming the excess off the edges before passing them back to the removal/refitting crew.

I doubt magnets will work to hold it up as there's probably at least an inch gap between the headlining shell and the actual roof. When my mate in France bought his P38 his wife thought it had ants crawling over the inside of the roof until she realised that it was hundreds of rusty staples holding the material up. The headlining shell is thin fibreglass with foam backed material glued to it. The foam starts to degrade with age so there is nothing between the glue and the material. Martrim (http://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) do a kit of the material and glue to do it yourself. For the Summer Camp we just bought 8 or 9 kits.

Welcome Hugh, and a good call on the LPG conversion. When it only costs £35 to fill the tank, you'll find you don't think twice about using it as often as you can. You're about 10 months late or you could have joined in the Summer Camp headlining replacement production line but it's simple enough as long as there is a couple of you.

Have a word with Simon. He may be quite a distance from you but if you dive in and do the donkey work, it'll get done quicker. Alternatively, you could install the tank and even pull the inlet manifold and drill and tap for the nozzles. Once tapped stick an M6 bolt in each hole so it'll still run on petrol but is ready for the bolts to be removed and the nozzles fitted.

Yup, you're right. To use a gauge it needs to go on port 6 which is the line to the reservoir.

You won't need the vignette then. I'm in Belgium middle of next month (Saint-Hubert, almost into Luxembourg) and then a round trip to the south of France, western France then back at the end of the month. If you are running LPG, it's stupidly cheap in Belgium!

If you look at the lenses you can see the moulded triangle that you need to mask off. Not only does black tape work well but it also is very visible so reduces the chances of getting pulled and checked. Where are you going? If driving through Paris, Lyon or Grenoble, you'll need your emissions vignette too. On your list of needs you've got front shock. I've got a pair of used but good front Boge original shocks if they are of any use to you.

Fuse 38 supplies the headlamp wash/wipe but also feeds the alarm sounder. Relay 11 switches the headlamp wash/wipe on so pulling that should stop them. Sticky things go in the same place as the masks I use but best to try them against a garage door to make sure they are doing their job before sticking them on permanently. Although a bit of black tape is cheaper.......

I do more miles on the wrong side of the road than over here so I leave my lights permanently masked. The deflectors are OK but rip the headlamp wiper blades to shreds and, as you will be driving though the night and using the windscreen washers to clear the dead bugs, you'll be using them. Initially I used tape but again that doesn't do the wipers a lot of good and ultimately the wipers pull the tape off, so I now just use paint. Even then, the wiper eventually removes the paint from the LH light. Masks as below will give you a horizontal cut off on the lights which I don't find to be a problem over here as they are pretty good anyway.

RH headlight

LH headlight (which needs doing again in the next couple of weeks before I'm on the wrong side of the Channel again)

Because it's the easiest place to get to the pipework. Diagram below

Or,if just doing it as a test,remove the timer relay and leave it out. You only need replace it with a 4 pin relay if you intend leaving it out if you only want the EAS to work with the ignition on.