Only US spec P38s had downstream sensors, rest of world only have the two upstream ones. The Yanks worry if the cats aren't doing their job, we don't give a ......

At least he's in the right place if it does catch fire........

I'd start to suspect the crank sensor too. Although you've not been near it, I assume you've disturbed, if not disconnected, the wiring to it. As the crank sensor can't give a fault code it does often come up with a cam sensor code instead as the two aren't in sync.

I took a car in for MoT that was fitted with winter tyres all year round and while it didn't fail the tester did put them on advise and suggested that they were changed. They were not pretty, the softer rubber compound looked like someone had been chewing on them as they didn't like the higher temperatures. That's why in regions where they get lots of bad weather everyone has two sets of wheels, a set with summer or all season tyres (all season in somewhere like the UK rather than somewhere that gets lots of very cold weather and snow) and a separate set with winter tyres.

Rimmers list it as in stock. If you order form them it will be with you tomorrow morning. They may be more expensive than the others but I've used them whenever I need something urgently because their next day delivery really is next day.

If it's M12 it will be one of the bolts that hold the caliper carrier to the hub not the smaller M8 that hold the caliper to the carrier. Not quite so easy to find as it's a fine thread too.

It's an alternator and mounting block off job to get to the cam sensor plug but I suspect you've either knocked the cable or trapped it between the block and head. Not too much of a problem if you have, just chop the wires off and piece them out.

It's the profile that dictates how they ride. My local Indie told me that you want 16s for comfort and 18s for looks and now owning cars with both I can see exactly what he means. The SE and Ascot, both on 18" wheels, give a noticeably harsher ride than mine on 16". I once drove a Range Rover Sport on 22" wheels and tyres resembling rubber bands, that was evil, you could feel every little ripple in the road.

Rcutler wrote:

yes slower acceleration and higher top speed! haha.

Errm no. Because the larger wheels have lower profile tyres so the rolling circumference stays the same. No different to 16" wheels having 65 profile tyres and 18" having 55 so the rolling circumference, and hence the overall gearing, doesn't change

Not connected the air flow sensor? I've forgotten that a couple of times, they don't like it much. Or an intake air leak? Try spraying around the place with brake cleaner. If the idle goes up, you've found the air leak. Favourite is the pipe to the fuel pressure regulator or the breather on the RH bank.

Can't be bad. Driven it yet?

That's nothing to worry about, the wheels are damn thick in that area. Bolts are standard M8 so you should be able to find one anywhere.

Try publishing the video so we can see it......

God that's horrible. The ad says it's been used on a shoot, what as, the target?

and everyone reckons laying underneath the car with no axle stands and the suspension on high is dangerous. Seems to me that laying in it is far more dangerous.......

Couldn't you have got a free hand to the seat switches and just moved the seat a bit further back?

The theory is that if the followers are dished then the lobes on the cam will no longer be flat but curved so putting a new follower in will mean only the centre of the lobe will be in contact with it. Then it's a toss up whether it wears the new follower so it is dished the same as the one that came out or wears the end on the cam lobe to get it flat again. Thinking about it, there's a good argument for fitting Britpart followers, you'd never wear a camshaft out......

As Brian says, it's just to make it convenient so you have everything displayed on the one screen rather than having to look at the LPG screen on a computer and check the lambda readings on an OBD reader. Singlepoint systems sometimes use a separate lambda sensor but not always. They work best with a 0-1V lambda sensor but on things like the GEMS P38 with 5-0V sensors there is a setting in the controller to allow them to use those instead. Mine has a separate 0-1V sensor purely to drive the LPG system but the Ascot is using one of the 5-0V ones (as is Gordon's car). What I found is that at idle on LPG the sensor stops giving an output and stays at 5V all the time. This is ignored by the petrol system as it runs open loop at idle but the LPG system sees it as a lean mixture and tries to compensate for it all the time so you end up with a default actuator figure far higher than it should be resulting in it running rich all the time.

Your timings look perfect, petrol at 4.31mS and gas at 5.30mS works out to 1.23x, perfectly in the 1.2-1.5 range they need to be. So the map at idle is right, you need to see what it is like at different points on the rev range and different loads.

I'd say 1mm dish on the follower is too much really, OK, the hydraulics will take up a lot of slack but that much would be pushing it. Is it just the one? I've got a set that I took out of mine and fitted new ones but only 3 or 4 had any appreciable wear. I can bung a couple in the post if you like.

Almost certainly will be going again, probably sometime towards the end of the summer but no definite plans as yet. Then again, I never plan anything more than a few weeks in advance anyway......

I drive, Dina sleeps. When I feel like a break, I stop and she takes over. If she feels OK to take over, she drives while I sleep but if she doesn't we'll stop so I can sleep for an hour or so then carry on. I end up doing most of the driving but as we need to stop every couple of hours to fill up with LPG take that opportunity to get a coffee, food and have a break for a while.