That would make sense. After it's stood overnight the air temperature and coolant temperature should both be the same. If the ECM is still reporting it as high, then you'll at least know by how much. I wonder if it will realise it's reading high and adjust itself? The BeCM does with things like the fuel gauge.

Looks like a GEMS airbox from what I can see, so it would appear that you've got an earlier airbox fitted with a sensor you don't need.

No, I would have thought they are too low down to drown the OBD port. Just been to Designation to see if they had a particular type of hose I could do with. They didn't but I did notice that if the Halfords discount vouchers include car cleaning materials, somebody might like to take advantage of it......

Yes they do although not all readings are correct on a GEMS. The GEMS has 5-0V Titania lambda sensors, and a generic scanner will display it as a 0-1V. Some correctly transpose so 5V (lean) is shown as 0V and 0V is shown as rich, others don't transpose and just show 0-1V but the wrong way round. Airflow readings are weird too but they do work and do show an increase as you open the throttle, just the quantity is wrong. It'll still show stored fault codes and allow you to clear them though. A Thor is fully OBD2 compliant though so any generic scanner will work and give correct readings.

It isn't an uncommon problem on the P38 because of where the OBD socket is. If water gets in through the pollen filter housing, it drips into the back of the socket and corrodes it.

As said, Thor (bunch of bananas inlet manifold) has the IAT sensor built into the MAF. If you've got a sensor on the airbox but a Thor motor, someone has fitted an earlier airbox from a GEMS (big rectangular plenum with 4.0 on it). If you've got a GEMS, then the plug is on a continuation of the loom after the plug for the MAF sensor.

LR V8 doesn't need a lube when on LPG. It's down to the grade of steel used for the valves and seats. Only engines with valve seats made from something marginally harder than butter need it. It isn't needed on a pre-2005 L322 with the BMW engine either but if it isn't fitted to a later 322 with the Ford engine the valves will be shot after 10,000 miles (like any modern-ish Ford engine). Basic rule is that anything of far Eastern origin will need it, earlier design European engines won't which is why you see so many Saabs and Volvos,running LPG. When Ford offered a factory LPG option, those cars were fitted with a different cylinder head.

As said, headlining is simple enough but does need at least 2 and preferably 3 people to do it.

Glad to see you got here from the other side, welcome. I'm only a guest over there now......

Did they check the ABS light after driving it as it doesn't go out until you hit 5mph, has been known to fool the odd MoT tester who isn't aware of that. What warning light are they complaining about not illuminating? There should be a warning light for rear fogs but it's on the switch not the dash. As you say though, they could have been pressing the wrong button. Stick a bit of black tape over the one for the front fogs so they've only got one to choose from. The front passenger door on my SE (now wearing your old standard grille), locks on the central locking but doesn't unlock so you have to lift the button inside, maybe yours has the same fault and they locked it between you dropping it off and them doing the test? So all you are really left with is a brake pipe (probably best to do the advisory one too), a bulb and a tweak of the headlight aim.

That would suggest you have a higher resistance thermistor than you should but from your checks with the old one, the ECM sensor is the higher of the two so that would discount the possibility that the internal wiring is reversed.

Eh? they don't make sense. Surely the manifold temperature should be higher than the expansion tank temperature? Can you check the temp at the top hose outlet? That would be the most accurate I would have thought. Temperature reported by Nano seems very high though. The gauge is very heavily buffered and hardly moves at all between 85 and 105 degrees. Not ideal as when it starts to noticeably climb you are almost into an overheat.

I doubt they'd fit as Mr Land Rover seems to have put a load of other junk under the front seats. Seems to be an awful lot of big alloy boxes with lots of wires going to them...... That's why I'm looking at something that will fit in the space they used for the factory sub but much slimmer so I can still keep my toolbox in that corner and be able to open it.

Have you tried measuring the resistance of both? For any given temperature they will both give the same reading if they are the same value. Have you tried the old one you took out, or at least measured it's resistances? Working on the theory that the gauge one feeds the BeCM it is unlikely the signal it expects to see would be different between a GEMS and Thor engine even though GEMS uses two separate ones as you know but I can only find specs for the one feeding the ECM not the one feeding the gauge. What actual temperatures are you getting?

A pair of JBL Stage 600C speakers arrived and were fitted today and I can confirm they are worlds apart from the originals. Fitting was fairly straightforward, the old ones are held into the plastic mounts with bent tabs and I drilled the mounts to use the supplied self tappers to fit the new ones. I tried the JBL tweeters that came in the box and, they didn't sound any different to the originals so I didn't use them although once out of heir plastic housings could have been fitted if I'd wanted to. Bass response is a definite improvement, I can use bass boost on the DSP settings in the head unit and it actually does something which it didn't before. They sound pretty damn good to me although I think I still need a sub.....

Just got off the phone to him and he admitted he'd finally got around to signing up. We aren't sure if it's a Tornado cam or chip but I have to admit, it's bloody quick. The stupidly expensive Prins LPG system doesn't run out of puff even at 5,500 rpm either. One interesting thing is the coils have been moved to a bracket at the front of the plenum (1998 so GEMS motor) where they sit neatly between the alternator and AC compressor. It's suddenly developed an SRS fault which Nano reports as internal module fault so we're going to try swapping the ECU with the one in my SE one day next week. We also suspect the keyfob receiver has been disconnected but we'll have a crack at that at the same time. He's in South Beds so not on my doorstep but not too far away.

I couldn't TIG weld to save my life. bpsm put a link to a picture rather than embed it into his post so I tried a post with the the link in the insert picture box. Posted but it came up with no picture but the 'insert image here' message, so I deleted my post and the 500 error popped up. Maybe I tried to delete it before it had fully saved it or something like that. You can still see the original message if you got to the Portal tab.

If it's come adrift at the top, it might find it's way in from there. With the side off the centre console you can see them where they fit to the bottom of the heater box.

Shame but never mind, maybe someone else has some contacts. My first wife worked for EMAP, the publishing house, and I used to have loads of contacts on numerous magazines but not these days. The P38 does very much seem to be ignored. I ordered a couple of parts for my car and a copy of a Land Rover magazine was in the parcel that arrived. I had a read through it and other than a buyers guide for the diesel L322 (which didn't mention the self destructing GM gearbox) there was no mention of Range Rovers at all.

Shouldn't think so although it might fill your car up with very dirty, smelly, water and dead leaves. Giving them a squeeze from underneath will usually result in a shirt sleeve full of dirty water. They are a conical shaped bit of rubber with a slit in the end so water can get out but not in. Dirt will clog them so they can't get the water out fast enough. When mine clogged up the water was running out of the side of the transmission tunnel cover and forming a puddle on the passenger side rubber overmat.

Martyuk wrote:

I wonder if any of the Land Rover magazines would be interested in a bunch of people keeping P38's on the road and giving them some love, rather than pulling them apart because they can't be bothered to fix anything...

That's not a bad idea. They get the odd mention in the Land Rover mags but most owners of inferior LR models tend to think of them as the unreliable, best forgotten, model. A bit of positive publicity could be good for explaining to people that there is nothing to be frightened of and they aren't complex, just a little different. Smiler, you're in the trade, how about using some of your contacts?

My pillar trims were pretty horrible too, dirty and with chunks of the furry coating missing. That stuff comes off fairly easily with a plastic scraper and the remains can be cleaned off with meths, white spirit or thinners. That leaves a smooth, beige plastic which initially I didn't like as, being shiny, I got reflections of other cars headlights off it. I must have got used to it though as I don't notice it now. The problem with using the headlining material on the pillar trims is that it is foam backed so while it would be OK on the A and D post trims, would be very difficult to get a clean edge on the B and C trims where there is the cutout for the sliding seat belt mount. You could make it look neater by wrapping it round to the inside but I suspect it would then jam up the sliding part. What is needed is either a matching material without the foam backing or some means of re-applying a furry coating much like the original.

I had a look for alternative hotels but not knowing the area makes it difficult, the Alex was OK but as Morat says, the beer is crap and it's a bit conference centre-ish. Premier Inns are usually pretty good (so Lenny Henry keeps telling us), so that would seem to be a viable option.

If a couple of people can strip headlining shells out and clean them off (removing the old cloth is easy, it damn near falls off), Dina and me can glue the new material on. We did mine with just the two of us but 3 people is the ideal number so another body to help with holding the material away from the shell. Once the material is on then either another couple of people can refit or the removal crew can take on that role.

Is this an invitation to take your car to bits? Diffs and autobox (and transfer case) are simple enough, take drain plug out, allow oil to go all over the floor, put drain plug back, refill. On yours with no dipstick, filling the autobox isn't as straightforward as the earlier ones.

I think I'm going to be tied up all the time sticking new headlining material to the shells but I'm sure someone will be able to show you.