and with a Zirconia sensor you don't get a change in resistance, they generate the output voltage. The change from Titania was partly to make it easier to fall into line with the OBD2 standard which assumes 0-1V sensors (compared with the 5-0V from a Titania) and probably as a cost saving exercise (as they are a lot cheaper). Downside is that Titania don't need a hole for reference air so aren't affected by being dunked in water when wading whereas Zirconia aren't very happy with being submerged. If you've been thrashing down your lane to get to the garage, you could have killed them by filling them up with water (I know I've still got muddy water stains on the underside of my bonnet (and everywhere downwards of there) on mine from following you down there).
Hi Tony and welcome. This forum was created out of frustration after both myself and Gordon (Gordonjcp who built and hosts the site) managed to get ourselves barred for a week at a time from the other forum by Mr knowitall. Before I found that one I used the Range Rover section of Landrovernet.com but on there someone asls a question and they might get an answer in 3 or 4 days time, it is so quiet. The idea here is that it is like a pub. It's a group of mates sitting in a pub having a chat about cars (as we all tend to do anyway) so there's no swear filter (if you are working on a Land Rover, swearing is something you'll probably be doing quite a lot of) and we couldn't care less if a thread wanders off topic.
Despite you saying otherwise, your English seems pretty good to me. My sister's husband owned a house in Holland a few years ago and it was used like a holiday home for the family. The first time I went over he told me not to worry about the language as virtually everyone speaks English. His explanation was that the Dutch know nobody is going to learn their language so they all learn everyone else's. He was quite right, every Dutch person I have ever met has spoken perfect English.
The one you want to pull is Maxi fuse 2 (30A), that supplies power to the EAS pump.
Why not try pulling the EAS fuse so that doesn't run? Then you should be able to hear the ABS pump.
Took me about 2 to do the first but that was on my ex-police P38 that doesn't have the ducts to the rear footwells. As Gordon says though, even if you've the ducts they can be bent out of the way so you can thread the screwdriver in.
There's a few familiar names on here now, we're starting the migration......
The lambda feed to the LPG system should just be Tee'd into the signal wire from the sensors so shouldn't have broken the path at all. It's only so that the LPG diagnostic can display the lambda voltage to save you having to have an OBD reader connected as well as the LPG software. Might be worth hanging a meter on the lambda signal wires at the ECU to prove that the Nano isn't telling fibs.
Sounds that way. You shouldn't confuse the vibration from the ABS pump running to the EAS pump running. EAS pump is on the passenger side (left as looking from the drivers seat) and the ABS pump is on the right next to the fusebox. I though all Thor models had 4 wheel TC?
Martyuk wrote: was going to solder/heatshrink, but the sensor side wiring must not be copper (I presume to do with the heat) as it wouldn't take solder to it - so crimps it was.
No it isn't, they are stainless steel. You can solder to them but you need a very hot soldering iron. I've got a mains one that won't admit to what the wattage is but the longer you leave it on the hotter it gets. After half an hour you can damn near braze with it, that did it but I've used crimps instead before. Proper W crimp ones though not these horrible squash flat things.
Despite everyone saying it's an awful job, I've now done three lots and the last time it took me under half an hour. You need to remove the centre console side panel (one self tapper at the bottom then slide it down and out) and the panel below the steering column (4 screws). I find that putting the suspension on high and then kneeling on the floor next to the car gives the best view of them. No need to drain the cooling system as all you are going to lose is the contents of the heater matrix so a Tupperware sandwich box stolen from the kitchen when he missus isn't looking is ample to drain it into when you undo the clamp screw.
You'll need a long, and I mean LONG, 12" or longer, number 2 Pozidrive screwdriver to slacken off the clamp screw. If the screw doesn't want to slacken off, try tightening a fraction first and then undo it. Don't take it all the way out, leave a couple of turns on the end (it's a very long screw) so the pipes can be separated but don't flop around everywhere. Take the old O rings out (which will probably come out in pieces), make sure both sides are clean, dunk te new ones in anti-freeze, slip then on and push the two parts back together. If you give the pipes a bit of a wiggle as you do the screw back up, it'll make sure they are seated correctly.
Rears are dead easy but fronts aren't too bad. Getting at the pipe is a lot easier and although RAVE says to remove the wheelarch liner, if you pull it out to get in there and jam a lump of wood or a WD40 can in there, you don't need to.
Are you sure it's the EAS compressor you can hear? I have to put my hand on the box to tell if the EAS compressor is running or not but the ABS pump can be heard easily. When you turn the ignition on after it has been left overnight, it will run for around 30 seconds, the EAS compressor will usually run for much longer than that. If the pump wasn't working you'd know about it, you need to use both feet and all your weight on the pedal just to get it to slow down.
Just turn the ignition on and you should hear the pump running, mines a noisy bugger so, like Orangebean says, it can be heard while driving. If the accumulator is OK then you should be able to press the brake pedal 3 or 4 times before the pump cuts in, less than that, particularly if it cuts in every time you use the brakes, means it's on it's way out.
Very good point, I've also noticed that. With the engine running only some connect, others need the ignition on but engine not running. That's my only complaint with the Nanocom, there isn't really any actual step by step instructions with it.
Not sure what the time interval is between each line on the sheet but both lambdas are reading rich until line 85 (with bank 1 showing leaner than bank 2 all the time) and they don't start to switch between full lean and full rich until line 109. That suggests to me that for some reason it is running rich initially for some reason.
In all honesty I've never taken much notice of it and don't really hear any increase in noise but it must be working. On Monday I did about 600 miles at 80 mph with a couple of tonnes on a trailer on the back and then immediately stopped in stationary traffic in Paris. With the heat soak I would have thought that would be the time when things would start to get a bit warm but nothing seemed to change.
What does the Nano say you O2 sensors are doing when it is running rough? Are they switch or hard over one way, I would suspect rich. The other thing you could try is disconnecting the purge filter solenoid valve. Every so often mine will run really rough on initial start with it either idling very low or not at all and I have to keep a bit of throttle on to stop it from dying. I can either ignore it al let it settle down or switch off and restart when it is fine. The way it runs feels like a really rich mixture but as I'm on a single point LPG system I'm already on gas at that point so my theory is that the purge valve opens and I've got petrol, or at least petrol vapour, going in there as well as gas.
12mA is about normal so it is going to sleep. It might be being woken up regularly which would cause the battery to drain though. PWM is pulse width modulation so basically it is a fast square wave with the on period varying to give different average voltage.
Bit more difficult for us as there is no certificate in existence for our stuff but it can still be done. Bikes are a piece of piss in comparison. We bought a 1967 Triumph Bonneville as a container filler last year. I tried to get an MoT on it here to register it and there was so much slop in the front forks there was no way I was going to be able to bodge it through a ticket. So it went to France unregistered and that was the easiest of anything we've ever done.
Workshop is for the cars we import. For the last 5 years or so we've been importing cars from the States into the UK. I do the bare minimum to get them through an MoT so they can be registered here and then transport them down there. Once there they get stripped down to nothing and fully restored. As they have a UK V5, then they can be transferred to French plates, without that, they are an import from outside the EU and simply can't be registered without an EU Certificate of Conformity which most of the stuff we deal with is simply too old and pre-dates that scheme. We started off with 1950s and 1960s Yank stuff, but then got offered a 1958 Austin Healey so bought that. Since then it's been more Healeys, E Type Jags and just recently, Volvo P1800s. Values of the Volvo coupés is rocketing and they are so well put together they are dead easy to strip down to nothing and put back together. There's no pattern parts available either but everything can still be got from Volvo so actually fits, unlike the crap pattern parts for a Jag for instance.
My mate moved down there nearly 25 years ago and I've been running up and down for various reasons since then so am well versed in the French (lack of) rules of the road. The old Priorite a droit makes things interesting but even a Frenchman tends to bottle out of pulling out in front of a Range Rover with a couple of tonnes on the back. I think the best one I've found is the roundabout, or more correctly, the circular road, around the Arc de Triumphe at the end of the Champes Elysee in Paris. That is treated as a roundabout but with traffic entering having right of way over traffic already going around. Gets really interesting when one exit is blocked and people still try to use a bit of road that already has someone parked on it. It amused me when they started putting in proper roundabouts with huge vous n'avez pas la priorite signs, no shit, there's a white line about a foot wide painted on the road!
I tend to ignore most of the rules of the road when over there. I'd have lost my licence years ago if I did the same over here. You're not allowed in the 3rd lane if towing a trailer bigger that 750kgs, but there's no way I'm going to sit in a queue behind a convoy of trucks. I've been flashed by speed cameras more times that I care to think about and surely those yellow lines at the side of the road mean it's parking for visitors only?
Next trip is for 1st/2nd of April but I'll be flying down that time just for a change. Luton to Nice on Easyjet at £25 each way, can't be beaten.
Richard