Just had a thought. If you've got 758 Ohms when cold and 58 when hot, presumably the gauge reads correctly when cold? In that case, if you were to put a resistor in series with the sensor, it should bring the gauge reading down. I'd start with something like a 200 Ohm resistor (so giving 258 in total) and see what the gauge reads then.
If you've got one. I've got one that I swapped the circuit board over as the driver chips for some of the warning lights died so I had no oil pressure light (amongst others). Just be careful though as swapping the whole cluster can affect the recorded mileage.
Just been out and tried on the Ascot which is early enough to have the same single connector sensor as you have. At 11 degrees (according to the HEVAC), the resistance of the sensor is 0.908 kOhms and the gauge, as you would expect, reads cold. Unplugged the wire from the sensor and connected a 62 Ohm (the closest I could find in my box of assorted resistors) between the alternator body, which should give a decent ground and the connector. With the ignition on the gauge read just below the mid point. Which suggests it isn't the sensor but something odd happening in the AD conversion within the BeCM or the DA conversion back in the instrument cluster.
Hopefully that will cure it, otherwise one day it will do it when you aren't around and the first you'll know is when you come back to a car and find a burnt out starter motor and a flat battery.......
Yes Chris, you are right, you can see them with the inner wheelarch liner out. Extending from there onwards is a viable way of doing it.
I'm fairly sure they are all M10. Yes, the two ports for the rears just come off the modulator and go directly to the rear callipers. Make sure you don't cross them though or you'll really confuse the traction control (and the ABS for that matter). Just running them in Kunifer would be a lot easier.....
Most places quote higher prices for delivery to Highlands and Islands but it does seem a bit steep. Not sure but I think Royal Mail would still treat you the same as anywhere else, it's just couriers that think you are a foreign country. How long does it take post to get to you?
Allow at least a couple of hours if you've never been in there before. It can be fiddly as there is an unused bit of steel that sticks out of the side of the latch that does nothing other than stop it from being removed from the door as it catches on anything it can. You have to pull the outside door handle out so you can release the arm from the back of the lock barrel, unclip the arm from the handle at the latch and take the sill button off the long rod so the rod can go downwards and clear. You then lower and rotate the latch so it comes out. To start with you'll be wondering at what exact angle you need to get the latch so it comes out but by wiggling, twisting and wobbling you'll suddenly hat the sweet spot and out it comes. While in there you can grease the window mech too.
I've heard rumours that this can be caused by a failing BeCM but, as you say, if that was the case cycling the ignition switch wouldn't cure it. If the BeCM has been drowned somehow, a high resistance ground on the ignition switch input could cause it, not been wading by any chance? Other than that, it could be a broken ignition switch so there is something that has broken off and is floating around inside the switch.
If you unplug C257 from the BeCM and it still does it, then it is looking towards the BeCM, if not, the switch.
I've got the plastic bits but no dog guard, presumably from when plod owned it, and the metal plates must be templates as they aren't there. You wil need the rivnuts though. If the bolts are M8, then an eBay search for M8 Rivnuts comes up with plenty of people that will sell you the nuts but you'll also need to buy the tool to insert them. Alternatively unless you have a very strong dog, these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372228875618 should be good enough and don't need a tool to fit them, just a bolt and washer.
It does, Nigel has found he does a couple of miles to the gallon less than on petrol but with the price difference it's still far cheaper. With LPG, and most other fuels in France, being the most expensive in Europe, it'll be even cheaper for me to run on it over there and LPG everywhere else.
As for running on veg oil, I noticed when the petrol and diesel shortage was happening a few weeks ago, my local Tesco had empty shelves where they would normally have the 3L containers of cooking oil.
That's right, 0.69 Euros a litre for E85 in France compared with 0.99 a litre for LPG (most expensive in Europe) and over 1.60 for petrol and diesel. Now I've sorted the heater circuit error on one of my lambda sensors so one bank always ran open loop on petrol, I'll be running on E85 whenever I'm over there. Seems that although the V8 P38 isn't listed as being flex fuel, it runs quite happily on it.
and people are getting their knickers in a twist over 10% Ethanol......
2 pin are cheaper if you need to replace them...... Mine has the 2 pin in it and has towed very heavy trailers up and down the side of a mountain a number of times and never given any trouble. The original whined like a London bus after around 250k miles (and gave a very healthy clunk when going from Drive to Reverse) so I treated it to a refurb from Ashcrofts and have had no more problems. My front has recently started to whine slightly at neutral throttle (silent when under load in either direction) but i suspect I'm the only person that would notice it. The Ascot, my spare, being a 4.6, should have the 4 pin (although being a 96 may not) and that has a weird speed related drone all the time. No difference under or off load or when turning and loading one wheel bearing more than the other, so I need to investigate that but I don't think it is the diff.
I think the 4.0 litre and diesel had a 2 pin diff while the later 4.6 got the 4 pin.
Nigel's car was treated to a new radiator, heater matrix and thermostat, along with the entire cooling system being back flushed, so the cooling system was virtually drained completely and put up a real fight when I tried to refill and bleed all the air out. Not sure if all Thor motors are like this or not but I've never had any problem bleeding air out on a GEMS. One thing I noticed on the Thor is that the hoses to the heater have a hump in them, so even those are a potential air lock waiting for some air. At least it's working properly now though.
Did you put the washers on the mounting posts the right way up? Bottom ones have concave face down while the top ones have the concave face up.
I'm currently rebuilding a 4.3 Mercruiser boat engine, a V6 that is a marinised version of 3/4 of the 5.7 V8 small block Chevy engine. If you think some of the design features on a P38 are bad, you want to try working on one of those......
The sensor is on the lower of the two aluminium pipes that go to the heater matrix next to where the O rings live. It isn't unknown for the connection to fail so unplugging it and giving a squirt of contact cleaner is often all it needs.
I'll be completely honest, having seen the bottom ripped off a brand new radiator because the holes didn't line up so it was under tension, I've never refitted them. The rad is held in place at the bottom by the pegs and rubber bushes, at the top by the slotty things and gravity. Even if you managed to turn the car upside down, I doubt it would fall out (although the security of the radiator would probably be the least of your worries if the car is upside down).
No, there's no gasket between axle and hub, they just go together dry. Never known them to leak from there either so obviously don't need one. Thinking about it, there's the oil seal in the axle and the wheel bearings are sealed so there shouldn't be anything in there to leak out in the first place.
I've considered taking a mould off a backplate and making some up in fibreglass, problem is finding a backplate good enough to take a mould from (and no, I'm not spending in excess of 100 notes for one to use).