When working correctly, one of the refrigerant lines should be too hot to touch while the other should be very cold and may even have condensation forming on it. If you can touch both then it isn't doing anything. However, even if low on refrigerant you would still get the signal from the HEVAC to engage the clutch, it just wouldn't get as far as the compressor due to the pressure switch. So it does sound as though something is stopping the HEVAC from engaging it. Ideally you need diagnostics that can show you what values the various other sensors are giving.
P1179 is listed as Maximum Negative AMFR Correction Fault which means the adaptive value for the MAF is as low as it will go so it has reached the maximum limit. Reset the adaptive values and then check the readings from the MAF. They should be 20 kg/hr plus or minus 3 kg/hr at idle speed and 61 kg/hr (again plus or minus 3 kg/hr) at 2,500 rpm. This is checked at sea level, engine fully warmed up, in Neutral and with all electrical loads off.
If they are outside of these specs, the ECU will add a correction factor to keep them in spec but it can only adjust by a certain amount and yours has adjusted beyond that.
Usual one for drivers airbag fault is the connector underneath the steering column, so dropping the knee panel is all you need to do to get to it.
One of my condenser fans seized years ago so they never ran and I recently noticed the other has now seized (probably due to lack of use) and it hasn't affected anything else.
One thing that will cause the compressor clutch to not kick in on hot days is if the clutch air gap is too wide. It should be between 16 and 30 thou but mine was nearer 40. It would work perfectly up to an ambient of around 22 degrees but as soon as it got hotter than that, just when it was needed, it wouldn't. Set the AC on Lo which should force it to come on, then tap the end of the clutch with a screwdriver handle, if it kicks in, that is the problem.
Yes it will. Doing an individual corner at a time shouldn't take too long with a tyre pump as you are only filling the air spring, probably a lot less volume than blowing up a tyre. Filling the whole system, all 4 air springs and the 9 litre reservoir, will take quite a bit longer (the best part of half an hour when I tried it with a fag lighter tyre pump).
dave3d wrote:
If you carry them with you, the car will never break down. On the one occasion you leave them at home is when you get a problem.
Exactly what happened to me. They sat in the boot for years and were never needed but the one time they were one of them wasn't in the boot and I needed a full set. Instead I tried using a tyre pump (in place of the dead pump) to pressurise the whole system but found that with trying to fill the reservoir as well as lift the car, it took nearly 30 minutes with the tyre pump running before the car started to lift. It just wasn't capable of supplying sufficient volume.
I found mine would lift from the bumpstops at around 5 bar, roughly 75psi. So tyre inflator is a must.
Get yourself a set of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274891528271, put one on each line and blow each corner up one at a time. I keep a set in the boot just in case (except only 3 of them were in the boot and the other was on the bench at home on the one occasion in 12 years that I've ever needed them). I don't like the idea of adding Tees and fitting them permanently as you are adding 12 more potential leak points.
Yes it is, ignition on, engine not running, in reverse gear and press and hold the Memory Store button. Message centre then displays Mirror Dip Off.
Tree clips are the ones that hold the insulation in place but don't have the hook for the washer pipe to clip into. For those you need ALR4425, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALR4425. You will probably find that the reason it has come out of the clip is that the pipes have shrunk a bit with age so they will no longer reach the clips, mine are dangling on both sides for that reason.
The stuff I've used in the past came from RS but it seems that it is no longer available in a small pot only https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/adhesives/9185009. A bit pricey......
Been there, done that. Putting 12V onto the blend motor with the HEVAC still connected causes a small puff of blue smoke and the unmistakable smell of burning silicon. There's 4 small 8 legged LM272M op amps, and they don't like it up 'em as they used to say on Dad's Army.
It is a difference in the firmware but the reason for the error is that the early HEVAC would have driven the compressor clutch directly but on a later car it drives a relay to pull in the clutch. The early ones monitored the amount of current being drawn so will log a fault when driving a relay as it doesn't draw enough current.. Once it detects the fault it won't try to engage the clutch again. You can jumper the relay so it drives the clutch directly or add a resistor so it draws more current and the fault will go away.
@jacckk, it might be a good idea if you can copy and paste the guide on doing the mod on here. Then it won't get lost in the fb mire.
As well as the cog that the distribution blend motor drives, there's a lever that operates the flaps for the vents and a hexagonal rod that runs through from one side to the other. The lever hooks onto a cam thingy on the cog, so on the drivers side, while the rod pushes in from the passenger side with a plastic plug to stop it coming out. When I had Nigelbb's car apart for a new matrix, I found that rod had slid out so wasn't doing anything. Not sure how it would affect temperature from side to side though.
The main advantage with Jap imports is usually low mileage and no rust. Thing is, with a P38 there are quite a few around in good condition with low mileage which isn't always a good thing in my view as there are plenty of things that suffer with age rather than mileage and, unless it has lived near the sea or been abused, a P38 doesn't usually rust anyway. Downsides are the couple of companies that import them ask top whack prices for cars with a speedo in kilometres, a radio that tunes the wrong part of the band and probably other minor differences too (RAVE mentions a lambda amplifier that was only fitted to Japanese spec cars for instance). Buying an import if it is something that is not available in the UK or so different to a UK spec car I can see the sense in but I don't feel the differences on a P38 justify the prices they fetch.
However, as Pete has one it would be interesting to hear his view and why he went for one.
Hi Pete and welcome. Easy one first, RAVE, and various other useful stuff, can be downloaded from this forum, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/10-how-do-i-mend-it.
My original timing chain lasted 287,000 miles so don't worry about it too much and camshaft wear seems not to be as common as some people make out. EAS is fairly simple once you get your head around it, you just need to deal with any dropping when parked or slow to rise when it should as soon as you notice it.
Oh dear, best do something about that......
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2304-hosting-your-images-on-google-drive
Or it's for US spec ones and has a warning about things being closer than they look printed on it?
That sounds almost like the cable is out of adjustment. The XYZ switch sends the information to the display and BeCM but the cable actually sets the gears. If the gear the cable sets and the XYZ switch output don't match, it goes into limp mode. The adjustments for the XYZ switch assume the cable adjustment is correct and make the switch match the actual gear set by the cable. If the cable is out but the switch has been adjusted the gear the gearbox is in and the gear the switch is reporting are different.
Is the gearchange stiff or does it move through the gears freely?
I don't know of anywhere, I think it's one of those things that need to be grabbed from any cars that are being broken. The pressure switch is the same as that used on a Saab GM900 series, so maybe the pump is the same? The Classics with ABS also use the same pump.
If it doesn't run with power applied directly to it, it's dead.