You need a window regulator as yours has worn teeth at the top of the travel. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/window-regulator-front-britpart-cvf100740-alr78-p-114.html

I suspect most of us have had it at some time, mine was doing it when I first got it and it was only 12 years old then.

Of course, as I've just come in for some lunch. The point is that R134a is the stuff being ILLEGALLY sold by Halfords, however, I doubt anyone has ever bothered to tell Trading Standards so nobody has ever told Halfords. The trade are more concerned about the companies that will sell Chinese made, pre-charged, Multi-Split domestic AC systems to anybody even though they try to cover themselves by clearly stating that they will only supply with evidence of FGas qualification but will actually supply to anyone that asks. and before you go out and buy one to prove the point Dave, I commission tested one a couple of weeks ago and they are absolute crap......

davew wrote:

-Seriously I suspect you are just wearing your professional hat there, I have certainly re-gassed from a can,
without breaking any rules and/or having to eat any porridge...

You may have committed an offence but whoever sold you the can certainly did unless you showed them your C&G 7543 (Mobile AC) or 2079 (full FGas) certificate, see https://www.gov.uk/guidance/selling-f-gas-or-equipment. Halfords will sell you a can (and probably don't realise that they shouldn't) but technically they shouldn't. My local ECP want to see the certificate before they will supply R134a.

Welcome, most of us on here own the later P38 but there's many bits that are pretty similar and faults that can affect a car can be the same no matter what make or model it is. I used to own a 93 Vogue LSE, the long wheelbase version and I've helped a mate do a full restoration on a 95 Vogue LSE, the soft dash version (which seems to be the bastard love child of a Range Rover Classic and a Discovery 2). Only difference is that his was on coils when he first got it and after the restoration was done found the ride to be terrible on rough roads so we got hold of lots of secondhand EAS bits and put it back to how it should be. He was expecting an improvement (having previously owned a P38) but wasn't ready for just how much better it would be.

If you still have the memory seat ECU, I'll have that to repair (if it hasn't gone too far). Hot wiring direct to the switches is an option but without the ECU you lose the mirror adjustment unless you change the mirrors for ones from a car without the memory ECU.

Clonk is likely to be wear in a diff unless it is a propshaft UJ on it's way out. In fact a UJ running dry could also give a scraping noise too. They aren't easy to check without disconnecting one end of the propshaft but if you try squirting grease into the nipple and it all squirts out again, that's a sure sign of wear.

They should, not may, so they are correct. No mention of a pressure test though.....

davew wrote:

Part of the problem is if you don't use the A/C the seals/o-rings can shrink of course (and just re-gassing may not fully resolve that issue). If you have not run the A/C for a while a vacuum test is advised before re-gassing too.

Not advised, mandatory. Process is recover any remaining refrigerant, pressure test with Oxygen Free Nitrogen to 10 bar, vacuum out, then, and only then, as long as the pressure test and vacuum don't show any leaks, regas. That's what the automatic machines do and that's why it takes about an hour as they put the Nitrogen in and wait to see if the pressure drops.

In winter it kicks in automatically if you put the HEVAC on defrost as the AC dehumidifies the air and dry air will demist your screen a lot faster than damp air.

Nobody thinks about it until it gets hot. In the last week I've had over 20 enquires about installing AC in houses and have booked myself up fully from Friday until the 9th Aug. and there was me thinking I'd have a little part time sideline to top up the pension after I retired......

Totally agree, particularly on the P38 (and quite a few other cars) where the system is designed to be on all the time and it regulates the temperature by mixing hot and cold air. When I was working we had a fleet of Astra vans which were replaced after 5 years with Kangoo vans. Both had the manual AC on button and I switched it on and left it on all the time, whereas others only switched it on when it got warm. On both the Astra and the Kangoo, I was the only one that didn't have to get the system re-gassed when summer arrived. It's like everything else on a car, if you keep using it, it keeps on working, if you leave it, chances are it will stop

I'd say one dead blower is most likely. The HEVAC self tests every time you turn on, no feedback from one of the blowers = book symbol. Lack of air would also seem to confirm this as instead of the air from the one working blower going through the heater matrix and out of the vents, it just runs across the car and out the other side where the other one isn't working. To check them you don't need diagnostics, just take the pollen filters out, start it up and look down the hole, you'll soon be able to see if one is turning and the other one isn't.

Yup, that's the one although not in that sort of condition. Fitted with a dog guard, back bumper outer skin had started to lift in the centre so the paint on the bottom of the tailgate was scraped and while not what you would describe as dirty but not clean either. Being driven on the A605 between Thrapston and Peterborough at around 14:45 today.

I followed another P38 today a couple of cars in front of me, S plate but with amber indicators making it a late 98. Got up behind it and as I overtook it, looked at the badge on the tailgate and saw it was a Vogue 50. New one on me, I know of the 50th Anniversary and the Vogue and Vogue SE but not a Vogue 50. Bumpers were body colour but the paint was that sort of green that looks like it could be blue under different light that I think they used on the Holland and Holland. Have I just found a really rare limited edition?

Found out why the inside of the glovebox was cooler than the rest of the car. Ducting to the passenger side vent, the one on the end of the dash, has a sliding joint in it which had slid so the air that should have been going to the vent was filling the underside of the dashboard.....

No, looks like a laser speed camera jammer.

If they both have the Alpine head unit, they will be the same. Steering wheel from a car with the Alpine doesn't work on an earlier car with the Clarion (or it does but the buttons all do different things to what you expect them to....).

Make sure it latches fully and you don't get a spurious tailgate open message on the dash. My spare has been pressed into service shifting building materials and taking the remains of an old kitchen to the dump. It was loaded up on Monday evening and the tailgate closed but it didn't latch fully. Interior lights timed out after 10 minutes so nothing appeared out if the ordinary. Went to it last night and found the battery totally flat. When I put the jump leads on it and turned the ignition on, it immediately came up with tailgate open. Although the interior lights time out and go off, a tailgate open signal stops the BeCM from sleeping. Completely flattened a newly new Hankook MF31-1000 in around 48 hours.

It can be done on the GEMS petrol ECU by the likes of Tornado systems (effectively making it into an ECU for a Morgan or TVR which don't have a BeCM) so I don't see why it can't be done on a diesel one by someone that knows what they are doing.

All the later ones have there weak spots, one reason why I might consider an early (pre-Ford) L322 but only as a second car to be used as a standby. My neighbour is workshop manager at a well known Land Rover overland preparation place but they also do normal servicing and repairs. I mentioned the 2.7 diesel fitted to the Sport and Disco 3 eating turbos and involving a body off job to replace them and he reckons the later 3.0 litre is no better but then added that it isn't as bad as the TDV8 as they break crankshafts......

The 4.4 V8 L322 uses a BMW double overhead cam engine so completely different. It has independent suspension rather than live axles too. As a BMW design it's far closer to the X5 than anything earlier, hence why I've always referred to the P38 as the last proper Range Rover.

They can also eat money far quicker than a P38 too as there are far less aftermarket parts.

Yes, you have the DSP amp if you have the DSP option in the menu on the head unit and not the door amps. Door amps are roughly the size of a fag packet, only slightly smaller than the door outstation. DSP amp is tucked away behind the sound deadening behind the sub on the LH side of the boot. To fit an aftermarket head unit you have to bypass the DSP amp and add two pairs of speaker wires for the rear channels. With the DSP system, only left and right channels are sent to the amp with the fade between front and rear done in the DSP amp. All speakers are wired back to that and not to the head unit. Like the door amps it incorporates crossovers to split each channel between the bass speaker and the mid and high range speakers. You can jumper the left and right front channels from where they arrive at the DSP amp directly to the outputs that go to the speakers but to match the speaker impedances stop the sound quality going 'muddy' you need to put crossovers in those jumpers. That way, taking Left Front as an example, you'll have a pair of wires arriving at the DSP amp from the Front Left output of the head unit and two pairs of wires from the DSP amp to the Left Front door, one pair for Bass and another pair for middle and top.

i did this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814 as a result of being asked about it on RR.net (but didn't publish it on there, why let them be the source of useful information after they removed all of what was there before?) and the guy managed to do it himself and got it all working.

On the head unit, if you poke the button for changing the bass, treble, etc levels, do you have a DSP option? If you do, you've got the DSP system making fitting an aftermarket unit not as straightforward as if you have the door amps. Door amps would live lower down the door if they were there.