Raise switch and lower switch refer to the rocker switch. Nanocom takes a second or so to show a change of state so if you press Up or Down and hold it, you should see the display change from Open to Closed while you are pressing the rocker. Doesn't explain why the pump isn't running though.
No ABS modulator, just a conventional master cylinder and servo.
It isn't a percentage, it's the number of steps (although the Nano may show it as a percentage) and it has probably reached the limit at idle. You shouldn't need to adjust the cables, they should have a small amount of slack on them when the throttle is closed. Cleaning the butterfly won't do any harm. The throttle will close off almost fully and the IACV allows air to bypass the butterfly to maintain idle. When you open the throttle very slightly, the IACV opens to raise the revs slightly at very small throttle openings. If it's never been adjusted, it will almost certainly need adjustment. It's either a small Torx or Allen key you need to adjust it.
I've spent another half day on this weird EAS behaviour on Nigellbb's car. Although the Nanocom shows all of the valves to be closed, listening to them shows that they are opening but probably not for long enough for the Nano to register the change of state. Took it out with the Nano connected and while driving it remains at the height it should be, it's only when stationary it doesn't. While sitting there with the engine running, the pump cuts in and the car rises, it overshoots the set heights, the pump switches off and it drops but overshoots again and drops lower than it should. Re-checked the calibration with my blocks and the difference side to side is 8 bits maximum so that shouldn't cause a problem (I don't think). I'm beginning to suspect the ECU as it permanently shows the doors to be closed even if they aren't (so still moves with a door, any door, open), the Nano shows the pump to be On all the time, even when it isn't, and the pressure switch is shown as open even when the pump shuts off (realised later that I hadn't checked the status of the thermal switch though). I considered swapping the ECU with mine until I realised that would involve taking the passenger seat out of both cars. It's working as it should when being driven so I've given up on that. Unless someone has any other ideas......
Nigel had mentioned that it seemed to take longer to rise up when it had been left for a long time so had dropped and the pump didn't sound right either. It's a Dunlop branded one dated 2019 so hasn't been on that long, but didn't seem to be producing much pressure, not as much as I would expect. Fortunately I'd got a spare, brand new and unused sleeve and a piston with a decent seal on it (from a pump that had burnt out it's motor). Took the top off the pump and found a lot of wear in the seal, so rebuilt it using the spare piston, brand new sleeve and a new O ring (from my box of assorted EAS bits) under the flap valve. I also found the screws holding the motor to the pump were loose too. Fitted that and while it didn't stop it rising and falling, it refilled the system much quicker and is a lot quieter too.
GEMS - Inputs - Air and Idle - Idle air control valve, this will show the number of steps open the IACV is The number when idling with a warm engine should be between 15 and 30 (closer to 30 is better). If outside of that you adjust the idle bypass screw, the one on the top of the throttle body that once had an anti-tamper cap on it.
About the only thing left that you haven't checked would be the pressure switch. If the pump needs to run it would be open circuit, closed when the system is up to pressure.
Sounds like the idle air valve is out of limits. If you have diagnostics that can show how many steps it is open at idle, you can adjust and get it within limits again.
Even though I passed my test long before the restrictions came in so I've always had B+E, I did a trailer towing course years ago when we had trailers at work which taught me a lot (like reversing an S bend with a trailer on). Some of the old codgers I've seen towing caravans make me cringe though. Their licence says they can do it but they've obviously never had any training and don't have a clue about loading and weight distribution. Virtually all of the downhill stretches on the French Autoroutes have reduced speed limits for caravans (never worked out if they apply to me too with a car transporter or plant trailer on the back...) for very good reason when you see some of them snaking even on the flat.
They can sometimes do a little dance if the height sensor settings are out of limits side to side, but it was calibrated last time it was here and they were all very close. The odd thing about this is it rises and falls when the door is open, when it should inhibit any movement and the Nano reports all valves closed.
leolito wrote:
Wow ... you really know how to spend a day lol :-)
Or 4 days.... Tuesday saw the dash and heater come out, Wednesday was replace the matrix, putting it all back in and refilling the cooling system, Thursday was fitting the new thermostat, refilling again and buggering about under the bonnet, while today was fitting the new door latch and finishing off.
The odd part about the EAS is it doesn't appear to leak anywhere. I left it at High and it stays there all night without dropping at all, it just does this little rise up while the compressor is running and drops back down to where it should be as soon as the compressor stops.
There has been some R9 marked hose that was counterfeit and wasn't even suitable for petrol, so beware of any that seems too cheap. Turbozentrum list an E85 compatible fuel hose so that will cope with E10 without any problem.
Not mine but Nigelbb's car. He dropped it off for a continuation of the work I did on it last time on Tuesday and I've been on it until about half an hour ago. Out with the dash to get the heater box out so I could change the matrix. I used the Paulp38a instructions on removing the dash and found a couple of things that he'd missed, but not too bad a job. Although someone had been in there before and the four bolts holding the dash to the frame weren't fitted, maybe it won't rattle now. Then looked at RAVE to remove the heater box. RAVE says to undo the 2 bolts at the front, two more underneath at the back and, with an assistant, lift it out. What about the two bolts at the top and the screw that holds it to the AC evaporator housing then? No mention of those. The two at the front can't just be removed because the bracket along the front won't allow it to come out so that has to be removed too. Anyway, once out, changing the matrix was easy enough. While out I put the spindle for the face vents back in, it had slid out so wasn't attached to the cog driven by the blend motor so the flaps were just flapping. Lubed all the flaps too for good measure. All back in together with new foam in all the duct joints so what comes from the blowers actually gets to the vents and doesn't leak out under the dash. While the dash was out I replaced the cruise control vacuum hose to the brake pedal switch. The old one had a leak and was split at the usual place where it went through the bulkhead.
Reverse flushed the cooling system and refilled it. Took ages to refill and get all the airlocks out (seems a Thor is more difficult to bleed than a GEMS?). Wasn't happy with the temperature it was running at, or the fact that the top hose was cold while the header tank was getting very hot, so dived out to Nene Overland for a new thermostat (and had to drain and refill again). While under the bonnet, found the spacer for the guard that goes over the AC compressor and PAS pump that Nigel had lost (under the alternator), tapped the thread on the bracket that he had chewed up and ran a die over the bolt so it now screwed back in as it should. Ran it up and found the temperature was stable at 94 degrees and the heater was chucking out loads of heat. Finished putting the interior back together. Then noticed the heater had stopped giving heat..... Nanocom said that the heater matrix was at -10 degrees so off with the lower panel again. Touched the pipe to the heater to find the sensor was telling lies as it was bloody hot. Gave the connector to the sensor a wiggle and the Nano told me it was at 83 degrees and heat came back. Off with the sensor, unplugged it, gave it a squirt of contact cleaner and then had to drop the lower panel off as the clip pinged off inside the dash. Having found the clip, put it back on, checked that it worked reliably and called it a day.
The other problem was that the keyfob wouldn't sync and Nanocom reported that the keyswitch wasn't changing state when the key was turned. The door ajar switch was also intermittent, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't, so a new door latch was needed. As a 2001 car, it needed the version with the single 8 way connector. Offered to get one of the MG latches and change the plug over but Nigel said he'd prefer a nice new genuine one despite the price. All the usual suspects showed them as something they would order in from LR so figured it would be quicker to go to the LR main dealer. Called in there yesterday and ordered it and got a text at 8am this morning saying it was in. Picked it up and pulled the door panel off to find someone had been in there before as the moisture barrier was missing. Not just torn where someone had accessed something inside the door but completely removed! Fitted the door latch, synced the fob and almost there. Took it out to try it. Temperature remained a nice steady 95 degrees and the cruise control worked but not well. Going uphill the speed would drop and it wouldn't try to maintain it but going downhill it would back off the throttle so was working after a fashion. Tried to use the Resume function and nothing happened initially but suddenly it felt like the throttle had been stamped on. Figured something was a bit sticky. Adjusted the throttle and cruise cables as per RAVE and noticed everything seemed a bit stiff. Lubed it all, re-routed the cruise cable so it didn't have a tight bend in it, took it out again and found it was now working as it should.
The only puzzling thing left now is the EAS. When driving it, everything works exactly as it should but when parked, even with the doors open, with the engine running, I can hear the pump cut in, then the car will rise slightly, then pump cuts out and it drops back to where it should be. Looking at the state of the valves with the Nano, it shows them all to be closed. This suggests a leak inside the valve block but no matter how long I look at the diagram, I still can't see where? I've got a spare valve block but it isn't complete so can't fit that and can't swap it for the one on the Ascot as Nigel has taken that to go home in while I've got his car. I'll give it a bit more thought and may have a go at that on Sunday before he comes to collect it......
This place https://turbozentrum.co.uk/ is far more reliable at supplying silicone hoses that ASH who advertise stuff they don't have in stock then try to sell you something different. I bought some single ply reinforced 8mm hose to replace the rigid plastic radiator breather and throttle body heater pipes, this stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223571087756. Their postage on eBay is a bit steep but if buying a few bits and pieces off their website it isn't too bad.
If you has asked his time yesterday, I had a car in that exact same state here but it's all back together now. The wiring is clipped to the underside of the dash panel so assume it goes over the top.
We all know how expensive door latches are and how much grief they can cause, but it seems that if you have a GEMS with a dodgy drivers door latch, there's another option (as Marty is still away and not able to supply refurbed ones). Some may be aware that the MG TF uses the same latches as the GEMS P38, the only difference being that they have 6 + 2 way plugs rather than the 6 + 1 on the P38. Not a problem though as you only need to use the black wire in the 2 way connector and ignore the extra grey one that the MG latch has. However, while Rimmers have huge stocks of latches for LHD cars at ridiculously cheap prices (probably because there's not that many LHD MGs in the UK), latches for RHD MGs are around the same price as latches for RHD P38s. Every supplier seems to want £200 or thereabouts plus the VAT. All except one it seems, how about this https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgf-mgf14-exterior-bodyshell-panels/door-lock-rh-mgf-tf-rhd-fqj102262pma. There are two part numbers for the MG latch, the other one is FJQ000080PMA which you don't want as it is for the basic MG without central locking so doesn't have the microswitches we need.
If you have a Thor the plug is different. It uses a single 8 way plug but the latches are the same as on the GEMS so if you need one and don't mind getting involved in a bit of soldering and swapping the plug over, the MG one will work in a Thor too.
A late model, Thor, 4.0 litre P38 is ULEZ compliant. A GEMS isn't and a 4.6 isn't and the 4.0 litre shouldn't be as they are all Euro 3, so it is obviously a mistake on the part of TfL. How long the situation will stay like that is anyone's guess but sooner or later they will realise and close the loophole I'm sure.
It's very shiny.....
and running the same Kleber Citilanders I put on mine a few months ago.
Don't know but it's another possible. When I went to look at it last week I took a clamp on ammeter with me but as we knew the BeCM wasn't sleeping, that was what we concentrated on. With hindsight, we should have checked for any other current draw after the BeCM was sleeping.
Looking towards the rear from the front of the car.
Loom goes underneath the engine mount, doesn't appear to be clipped anywhere, with the tails to the starter going upwards. Ignore the additional white cable there, that is for the extra 0-1V lambda sensor in my RH downpipe to feed the LPG system.