Forwarded to me by a mate.......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222530261135

(Only another 15 to go now Tony)

Clive's thread on lifting his car has disappeared not because it broke any forum rules ('cuz there aren't any), but because Ferryman started writing a reply and then attempted to edit it. Unfortunately, he deleted the whole thread and not just his own post......

It might be recoverable but I'm not sure how often backups are done so it may have been lost forever, doh!

Inspired by a question asked on the other side by someone who is now registered on here too and by the lack of bass on my system. OK, so I've got the original LR speakers rather than the HK ones but need to swap the 6.5" woofers in all 4 doors at the very least. I've got an aftermarket Kenwood DSP head unit driving the original speakers. Well, nearly original as I changed my basic spec door panels for ones from a higher spec car and found that as well as the wood on the outside, they had a pair of HK midrange speakers still bolted to them. So I've got bog standard woofers and tweeters but HK midrange at the moment. A professional sound engineer spent a good 2 hours while we were driving through Holland playing with the settings and got it as good as it can get but the woofers are decidedly lacking in the bass department (and there's no sub). As I've got OldShep's 2001 Vogue here with a working HK DSP system in it, I bunged a CD in the changer expecting amazing sound quality. No matter how I fiddle with the settings, it's good but nothing like as good as I expected it to be. In fact, it's not that much better than what I have. Maybe I've been spoilt recently with listening to the Bose system in an Audio RS7 and the Naim system in a Bentley but I don't see why it shouldn't be possible to at least get close.

So, I need to change the speakers. They need to be 4 Ohm, with as low a frequency response as I can find and not stupidly expensive. I'll probably need to add crossovers too. Most 6.5" speakers are 2 and 3 way coaxial but that isn't needed and so far I've narrowed it down to http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Skytec-6-5-Hi-Fi-Polypropylene-PP-Mid-Woofer-Bass-Speaker-Driver-Cone-200W-/182455996924 (nice low frequency response but 8 Ohm so no idea how they would interact with the HK mid-range and standard tweeters I've got in there and I've never heard of Skytec), these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JBL-300W-TOTAL-2WAY-6-5-INCH-16-5cm-CAR-DOOR-2WAY-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-TWEETERS-/190885731881 (A name everyone has heard of, 4 Ohm but frequency response only down to 50Hz although they do come with a pair of tweeters, which I don't need, and a pair of crossovers but are described as mid-range) or these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Face-6-5-Inch-16-5cm-165mm-800w-Mid-Bass-Drivers-Car-Door-Sub-Speakers/351990186243 (which seem to meet the spec but are just for the speakers so crossovers would need to be bought separately). My head unit also has an output for a sub so I will probably add one of them too.

Anyone tried any of these or got any other suggestions?

On my way back from the Loire valley yesterday we called in and gave a forum members car the once over just outside of Paris. The car, belonging to mymysteri has been the source of much grief to the owner and that, combined with being ripped off by a couple of French Range Rover 'specialists' meant she (yes the owner is a she, something I didn't know until I met her!) was on the verge of getting rid of the car. It's got the odd little niggle but they are causing all sorts of problems. The key switch in the drivers door (LHD car so LH door) doesn't work so the fob won't sync and the EKA can't be entered (Nano to the rescue here), the central locking isn't working (presumably due to the lack of sync) the front passenger (RH) door is superlocked which means the tailgate can't be opened (but hopefully that will sort itself out when the door latch is replaced and it can be synced) and the EAS pump is very tired so takes ages to build enough pressure to get the car to rise from it's bumpstops.

However, the things that I noticed first upon opening the bonnet was a) there's an awful lot of spare room under the bonnet of a LHD diesel and b) there were no pipes attached to the heater matrix. As she'd already been charged an arm and a leg by the aforementioned 'specialist' to sort out the non-functioning heater, she was not best impressed. It looked so neat I couldn't immediately see how it was supposed to be connected. Referring to the picture below, there was a metal pipe coming upwards from behind the engine (presumably the one marked as 1) with a curved hose that connected to what I now know is the heater return (marked as 2) so assume that a join has been put in the return hose. If there any chance someone with a diesel can get a photo of the heater pipe arrangement so I can be sure how it should be connected?

I strongly suspect that in addition to the above faults it will also need heater O rings as that is likely to be the only reason why it was disconnected in the first place. It's looking like I will be nipping over there for a couple of days in the next few weeks to get it all sorted and working as it should. The BeCM has already been to Marty to be reset (although it did seem to have a mind of it's own and thought it had a manual GEMS rather than an automatic diesel) but I suspect the vast majority of the problems were down to the door latch rather than anything more serious.

Curiosity really, but what dictates how quickly a gearbox drops the clutch so to speak? In the last few days I've driven 4 different P38s and have noticed a difference when pulling away from a standstill. On mine and OldShep's car when you pull away the revs go up to about 1,800rpm and the torque converter then makes the car accelerate while the revs stay constant. A bit like giving it some throttle and slipping the clutch on a manual. On the SE and one that a mate has just bought that he bought over to me to give the once over, the torque converter seems to lock up immediately and the revs go up as the car accelerates, more like dumping the clutch and booting the throttle on a manual.

I initially thought it would be down to mileage and a bit of wear but mine is on what I assume to be the original gearbox and has done 329,000, while OldShep's car only has 104,000 on the clock. The SE has 134,000 and the one my mate has just bought has 173,000 so that theory would appear to be out of the window. What dictates the speed the TC locks up at in the lower gears then? Is it the fluid, the fluid pressure, the torque converter itself or is it something more subtle like the output signal from the TPS maybe?

A couple of weeks ago I noticed the nearside rear brake backplate looked a bit damp. The rear discs didn't look brilliant and I knew it was getting close to needing pads on the back too so ordered a couple of rear discs and an axle oil seal (I already had the pads). Finally found time to do it today. I somehow doubt my nearside rear brake was doing much......

At least everything came undone easily enough though, unlike the other side which hasn't been doused in axle oil. One of the caliper slider pins was seized solid but rather than trying to twist it out and shearing it off as I have done in the past, I decided to get a bit more technical. I drilled a 5mm hole in the caliper carrier behind the pin and tapped it with an M6 thread. Then I filled it with Plus Gas and left it to soak for a while. Screwed an M6 bolt into my tapped hole and it pushed the pin out easily. Once I'd cleaned everything up, I just cut the bolt down and screwed it into my hole to stop any crud getting in there.

Had a phone call earlier from a guy I'm helping restore a soft dash LSE Classic. One of the alloy air con pipes got damaged when it was all being pulled apart and it's broke. He's found that they are almost impossible to get as the soft dash is a sort of mish mash of Classic, P38 and Discovery parts. He's asked someone about it and they have offered to make a replacement in copper. The question is, is there any reason why they are made of alloy in the first place and is he going to have any problems with a copper pipe? I said I assumed they were alloy as it was cheaper and some fridges use a copper condenser so I would think it would be OK. Anyone know of any reason why it isn't such a good idea?

Had a PM on the other site from Ash or Ash saying he couldn't log in again. I just tried logging out (which I don't normally do) and logging back in again and confirmed that you do need to log in 5 times. On the 5th attempt the Captcha box pops up and it lets you in. Hopefully, if people see this when not logged in, it'll tell them what they need to do in the meantime until it's sorted out.

I need a PRC7618, which is the Clarion PU9836A, to go in the P38 my mate in France recently acquired. It's a '98 HSE with the amps in the doors so he needs the correct stereo to feed these. They can be recognised by looking on the back and it has two DIN style rectangular sockets, an 8 way and a 10 way. Ideally it needs to be a worker and with the security code if at all possible but not absolutely necessary. When he got the car it had a dead aftermarket head unit in it and he's trying to return it to standard. I know a few people have fitted tablets and I thought Marty might have one he's taken out but he hasn't and the only ones on eBay are listed as spares or repair (which usually means they are completely dead and no use to anyone).

I'm flying down next Friday (13th, yes I know, booking a flight for Friday the 13th may not be such a good idea) so am trying to get one before then so I can bung it in my hand luggage.

Hi and welcome, I'll give you a bit more info which seems to have got confused over on the other side. I can't post on there as I got myself a lifetime ban for advertising this forum (and being critical of the attitude of the mods over there). If you get gearbox fault as soon as you turn the ignition on or start the car, but before selecting a gear, that is a voltage problem. Going into limp mode and either cutting out (especially when hot) or failing to start is quite likely a CPS problem. A gearbox going into limp mode and doing odd things, is likely to be a genuine gearbox fault. Have a read here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/4hp22/4e-faq-s.html which describes your problems almost exactly. Ashcrofts will do you a recon gearbox or you can take a punt on a secondhand one. The gearbox on a 4.6 is the 4HP24 rather than the 4HP22 fitted to the 4.0 litre and diesel models. The 24 is also longer so you need a gearbox from another 4.6, preferably a later one the same as yours (not sure if there are any differences between gearboxes on the GEMS and Thor but better swap like for like in case there is). If you swap just the gearbox and retain your original transfer box, make sure you change the gearbox output shaft oil seal or you'll be taking the transfer box off again to change it (or dumping ATF all over the floor).

Not sure if anyone else has seen one yet, but saw one of these today

Possibly the strangest looking vehicle to have ever carried the Range Rover name. Admittedly, I've always though the Ejoke should really be the Land Rover Freelander Mk3 (or is it 4?) and not sully the Range Rover name but this thing is just plain weird. Looks even worse with the roof up.

Southbound M11 near Stansted at around 09:45 this morning, I was pleased to see that I'm not the only one that makes my P38 work for a living. A very tidy looking 4.6HSE towing a tri-axle trailer at a steady 70 mph. Is it anyone we know?

As well as shifting cars around Europe this weekend I took the opportunity to give my mate a hand in getting his EAS working. He's only just got the car and when he sent me a few pictures of it when he got it, I could easily spot why the EAS switch did nothing and the suspension didn't drop at speed despite the previous owner having spent a fortune on it. The biggest clue was in this picture

Errm, that's not original.....

As well, there were signs that somebody had been in there from the fact that the valve block appeared to be complete but there was a reason why the pump wouldn't run, it was disconnected

Although the pump looked OK, I suspect it had been replaced as the lid of the EAS box suggested that it had got a little bit warm at some time in the past

I pointed him in the right direction and he got a rebuild kit for the pump and a set of O rings to rebuild the valve block and did those. So, in theory, all I had to do when I got there was connect everything up and maybe clear the odd fault or two with the Nanocom or the RSW EASUnlock software (as the cable and an old laptop live in the car anyway). The dash was showing EAS Manual when he first started it up so that said the jumpers had been fitted in the EAS ECU plug.

Fairly simple you might think but in anticipation of any possible problems I removed the valve block and compressor from my SE and bunged them in the boot just in case. We started off by getting rid of the Schrader valves and putting the pipes back where they belonged in the valve block. We then turned our attention to the electrical side of the system. Fitted the delay relay which he'd found in the glovebox, removed about 3 feet of insulating tape from the plug for the EAS ECU, checked to see if it had any jumpers in there (which it hadn't) and plugged it back into the ECU. Then removed the EAS bypass harness fitted to the BeCM (the expensive alternative to a pair of jumpers at the EAS ECU plug), refitted relay 20 which had been removed and figured that it might work. Started the engine and nothing. No lights on the display, pump not running, zilch. Pulled the display and rocker switch out of the dash and found that had also been disconnected, so plugged that in. At least that now lit up but the pump still didn't run. Use the Nanocom to force it to run and it did. Checked and found that not only had the pump needed a new piston and sleeve, a replacement reed valve he'd had to make from an old feeler gauge fitting (as the original one was split) but it seemed the thermal switch was open circuit too. Fitted the pump from the boot of my car.

Now it ran, it sounded a bit noisy but it was generating air, so much air that after a couple of minutes there was a pop and the sound of air hissing out. The collet on the large pipe just beneath the exhaust silencer had obviously fallen out so the pipe had popped out. Pulled the collet from the valve block in the boot of my car. Left it running with doors open for about 10 minutes then closed the doors to see if it would lift. It all appeared to be doing the right things, no fault messages, bottom light on with the standard height light flashing. That's about all it did though, the suspension was still doing nothing. Seems that although the pump was running, it wasn't filling the tank for some reason. Maybe a problem inside the valve block, maybe he'd mucked something up when fitting the O ring kit, we didn't know, but it didn't work. So, pull it out and fit the one from my boot. So now it has my pump and valve block in it. Fired it up again, pump runs, left it for a while and slowly it started to lift up off it's knees. It bloody works! A squirt of the soapy water showed leaks from just about every one of the multiple connectors in the air lines but I keep some of those (along with a length of pipe and a set of Schrader valves) in my emergency get me home if something goes horribly wrong kit in the boot. Swapped the cheapo pipe connectors for decent quality ones and no more leaks, or at least none of any immediate concern, those that were left were at the valve block where a couple of the pipes went in and they were cured by trimming a couple of mm off the end of the pipe so the O rings sat at a different place and not in a groove in the pipe. It was all working although appeared to be sitting a bit high. Admittedly it wasn't on flat ground so we took it down the road to a nice new, flat car park to put it next to mine and measure the heights at each setting. Spot on, no tweaking of heights needed. The only thing we hadn't checked was if it lowered to motorway height at 50 mph but that would need a run down to the Autoroute, even 50 kph is pushing it on the mountain roads around where he lives.

The pump still seemed noisy though. It could be heard easily inside the car whereas on mine the only way I can tell if it is running is by opening the bonnet and putting my hand on the box lid. I've also heard other people say they can hear their pump running too. We had another look at it and compared it with mine. The pump sits on 3 rubber mountings with a washer above and below them. These washers are dished and they were on upside down. The bottom ones need to go with the concave side downwards and the top ones with the concave side upwards. With them like that the engine was fired up and to see if the pump was running I had to put my hand on it to feel the vibration, it was completely silent.

A pretty good half days work in all, even if we did end up having to use the valve block and compressor from my SE which I now have to replace. All that was left was to get it running properly on LPG but that is a whole different story.......

My mate in France has just acquired a P38, he did a straight swap for a UK registered, RHD, diesel, Peugeot 406 Coupe which I picked up for him over here 3 years ago for £1200. He became the proud owner of a 1998, 4.6 HSE with an LPG conversion and a leaking water pump. Problem is, he does mechanics, if it goes up and down or round and round, he can get his head around it so an Airtex water pump was ordered and fitted . He does cosmetics, in fact, I think he could give Morat a run for his money (he does all the cosmetic and mechanical work on the cars we import from the US), but he is useless when it comes to electrics. So a P38 maybe isn't the ideal vehicle for him to own. Initially it had a dodgy drivers door latch so it thought the door was always open which caused all sorts of grief with the central locking/immobiliser, etc but that was sorted by pointing him in the direction of Marty and getting a new latch (incidentally, he reckons Marty is a fantastic bloke to deal with for those that weren't already aware). The EAS has had new air springs, and a ton of money spent on it but whoever did it obviously gave up so it has been disabled and a set of Shrader valves fitted so each corner can be pumped up individually. He's put a rebuild kit in the pump and new O rings in the valve block and I'm going down there in a couple of weeks with the Nanocom to recommission the EAS and get it as it should be. Just in case he's cocked it up, I'll also take the valve block and compressor from my SE so I'll have spares if they are needed. He's currently got the EAS MANUAL coming up on the dash so the jumpers have been put in the EAS ECU plug, so they will need to come out too.

However, he called his insurance company to get cover on it and as soon as he told them what vehicle it was, the response was, "So you'll be needing the optional breakdown cover then". Cheeky buggers, but in saying that, he decided to give it an oil and filter change but despite trying 3 different motor factors, nobody had a filter. One offered to order one for him at 24 Euros but warned that it might take a week, so I'll be taking a couple of those down for him too. So if it is that difficult to get something as simple as an oil filter in France, then anything else must be impossible. Only other thing with it is that the HEVAC is missing the fan speed knob and AUTO button. Does anyone have a dead HEVAC that they can be pinched from?

It had to happen sooner or later, but I've just deleted my first thread. The satisfaction is not complete though as I don't seem able to ban the poster, it would have been nice to do unto others so to speak. Anyway MadeleineCatly we don't have much use for waffle in Polish (at least Google Translate auto detect thought it was Polish but the translation didn't make a lot of sense) about Gout so sling yer hook. Shame, I thought maybe we'd got a P38 owning bit of crumpet joined, might have increased attendance at the next summer camp........

From a discussion going on over on the dark side where some daft Yank had an air spring come apart so lubed the rubber bit to put it back together and then wondered why it kept coming apart again. Durr, they aren't normally lubed that's why. However, it moved onto the advice about not jacking the car on the chassis rails but only on the axles. Now I can see how it could be thought that this will pull an air spring apart and it probably would if it had no air in it at all, but if it is inflated it'll only extend as far as the shocks will allow it to so no different to dropping a wheel into a pothole or driving over some very rough ground. A tyre place I use has a guy that used to own a P38 and he always insists that the EAS is put on high so there is maximum pressure in the springs before jacking on the chassis. I appreciate that if a car is sitting on the bumpstops with no air in the springs, jacking it on the chassis could well cause the springs to come apart but there should never be a problem if they have air in them.

But why have I posted this advice here and not over there? After my ban, for which I am still awaiting an explanation, I registered another username giving the very briefest of information about me and using a completely different email address. I posted in one thread and my post appeared, only to disappear a few minutes later and since then I've posted a couple more times and the posts have never appeared. Looks like they may have sussed that it's me. Being logged in means I don't get half a screen of adverts though and I have found that I can send PMs.....

Anyway, we get a much better class of discussion on here.

Anyone going next weekend? As it's only a couple of miles from my place, I'll probably wander down there.

Just refreshed my connection to RangeRovers.net and got this. I've only sent an invite to Mikeinfrance recently but it looks like someone may be reading PMs too.

Not really electrikery or even oily so I thought I'd post it in here even thought it isn't an introduction. But I thought you could all do with a laugh at my expense.

As I’ve mentioned my car has 5,000 miles or thereabouts to do in the next 3 weeks, but it hasn’t started too well. Checked all my documents on Tuesday evening to realise the MoT runs out on the 23rd. Managed to book it in for Wednesday afternoon but it failed. When Marty and I changed the front axle back around Christmas time, the one we fitted had split boots on both ends of the link rod that joins the two wheels together. I’d meant to change them but never got round to it, figured I’d leave it until they were worn and starting to slop. Not too much of a problem as I would be back from my first 2,000 mile round trip on the 22nd, so ordered the complete set so it would be at home waiting for me to bung it on as soon as I was home and could drop it in for retest.

Set off on Thursday morning towing a car transporter trailer loaded with a 1974, Series 3, V12 E Type Jag which needed to be delivered to my mates workshop in Antibes in the South of France and 120 kilos of cast iron fireplace that needed taking down too. When I’d called to book the hire trailer I’d said I needed the biggest they’d got and big means heavy. I was towing a good 3 tonnes. All was going well until somewhere near riddlemethis’s place at about 3am on Friday, the AC stopped working and it was getting a bit warm. Checked it with the Naonocom and it said it was working but I’d only got just over 9V arriving at the compressor clutch, not enough to pull it in. I could dab a wire from the battery onto it and the clutch would engage and stay in on the 9V but as soon as it released, it wouldn’t pull in again. Figured that at the next LPG and coffee stop, I’d upgrade it to the later system where the HEVAC pulls in a relay which would switch power directly from the battery. With a few lengths of wire, my crimp tool and a spare relay, that was done in about 10 minutes fitted and tried. Clutch clicked in and then immediately dropped out again. Nanocom showed that the HEVAC was getting offended. It had detected that the clutch wasn’t drawing as much current as it should so had logged a fault and stopped trying to engage it. Bugger, some things are just too clever for their own good. Looks like it was going to be a warm journey for the rest of the way so we carried on with the windows open..

Near Aix the car seemed to fill with orange dust. Couldn’t work out what it was to start with until I looked in the mirror. I’ve got the new material for the headlining but that is scheduled for next week when I’m back home. The turbulence of driving with the windows open had released the headlining at the back and the rotted remains of the foam was coming out and flying around inside the car. Stuck it back up when we next stopped but by then everything inside the car, including us, had turned orange.

Arrived at the workshop Friday morning and we unloaded the trailer. Loaded the return load, a 1967 Triumph Bonneville motorcycle, and set off to my mate’s house. As I was slowing for the last toll point (St Isidore), about 10 miles from his house, it went Beep, Alternator Fault comes up on the dash with a red picture of a battery. Pulled up and opened the bonnet. All looked fine, alternator looked like an alternator, hadn’t burst into flames or melted and the serpentine belt was attached and turning nicely. Figured I should be able to make it to his house with the battery not being charged. The last part of the run to his house is 3km up a mountain track which rises almost 500m. It’s very narrow and bumpy with two hairpin bends and I’ve got to get up it in a car that may run out of electric at any time so the engine will stop while towing a trailer. Daren’t let the revs drop so went up there at about twice the speed I would do normally with the trailer dragging in the undergrowth on either side. Part way up the engine note seemed to change but I ignored that as it was still running and the dash hadn’t lit up with any more warnings. Got to the top, parked and opened the bonnet. Put my meter on the battery and it was showing 11.8V with the engine running. Definitely an alternator fault.

Found a pair of gloves so I didn’t have to wait for it to cool down. It was pretty warm having done just short of 1,000 miles in an ambient temperature of 31 degrees (almost as warm as the occupants of the car with no AC in 31 degrees!) but it was soon off. I had the vain hope that it was something simple like a stuck brush that could be sorted with a quick poke. No such luck. It seems that 316,600 miles is the finite life of a Marelli P38 alternator. The brushes were pretty worn but not as worn as the slip rings. That’s the black plastic under the ring that the brush is bearing against, not just a bit of blackened brass……

Just down the road from my mates place, well about 450m in the vertical plane and probably no more than 1km in the horizontal, but a 4 km drive away, is a place called Cassauto 06. A car breakers although I’ve driven past it no end of times and assumed it was no longer in business as where you used to see a pile of dead Renaults, now you could see nothing more than the sign. He assured me they were still there and phoned them. Alternator for a V8 petrol P38 Range Rover, no problem mate, got loads of them, he was told. I found that slightly hard to believe but clutching one very dead, and still very warm, alternator, we went down there. I was convinced we would get there to find a pile of assorted alternators, none of which would fit a P38. Seems that everything is hidden out of sight these days and there were at least 3 P38s and a Discovery in there amongst other stuff that used to be common but isn’t these days. When was the last time you saw a Renault 16 or a Peugeot 304 cabriolet? There’s at least one of each in this place, pretty much rust free too! The guy goes off and comes back with a very familiar looking alternator. Put it next to mine to make sure it was the same then went out the back. Came back a few minutes later with a pristine looking, fully tested, guaranteed for 30 days, 100A alternator with a Land Rover label showing it to be an AMR3021 (standard fit on an earlier P38 but then superseded to a different number). Cost me 150 Euros but probably a lot cheaper than if I’d used my ADAC European breakdown membership who would have got one for me but it would have been from a main dealer at main dealer price and probably not until Monday at the earliest.

Fitted it and was quite surprised to find that 11.8V was still enough to start the engine without any of the usual gearbox fault, etc that usually pop up if a battery is a bit iffy. Meter on the battery showed it was charging nicely but the engine note still sounded odd. A quick look underneath showed why.

Bouncing over the bumpy track at a stupid speed had caused the outlet pipe on the centre silencer box break off. It looked well rotted anyway and I’m surprised the MoT tested hadn’t at least commented on it. Interestingly, it’s only a couple of years old. The centre box started to leak at the seam so I ordered a new one which arrived with a Britpart sticker on it, but it was cheap. The one I took off had Land Rover on it and I’m fairly sure it, along with the downpipes and back end, are the original ones. The silencer itself is fine, it’s the rear pipe that had let go. Sounded quite throaty and figured that as long as the front pipe into the silencer wasn’t in the same state, it would get me home. Concerned that the front pipe would be taking the weight of the whole silencer, I used a bit of steel garden plant wire to at least take a bit of the weight and hoped it would last.

It did last and got me home although I must admit that after about 700 miles I remembered a post from someone on the other forum who had a blowing exhaust burn through an EAS pipe. With the exhaust gases coming out in front of the rear axle I then started imagining the axle oil solidifying from the heat and the diff seizing, the brake fluid boiling in the pipe running over the axle (even though there isn’t one) leaving me with no brakes or the rear air spring catching fire and dropping me onto the bumpstops. But none of the above happened and we got home.

We even had air con. I noticed that the feed from the HEVAC goes to the connector in the RH kick panel. I’d checked the one in the LH side but don’t think I’ve ever been inside the other one. It looked OK but I snipped the wires into the plug and bypassed it anyway. AC started to work but it didn’t last, so on a fuel stop I checked and found 11.2V at the compressor so ran a wire from the compressor to inside the car. As there were enough volts to hold it I once engaged, all that was needed was enough volts to pull it in in the first place. Every time it started to get a bit warm in the car, Dina would poke the bit of wire into the fag lighter socket, the clutch would engage and we’d get cold air. As soon as it started to get warm, she’d just give it full battery volts and it would all go cold again. No problem.

Just got to get it all sorted out before the weekend when we set of on a 3,000 mile round trip……