Good Morning

Cruise control stopped working few weeks ago

So yesterday I replaced the silicone hose and T piece

It still didn't work so whilst I was at it. I put a replacement steering wheel on. Thinking the control may of gone on the old one.

Still nothing.

So I'm left with the brake switch or the vacuum side under the bonnet itself

Any way to test either of them ?

Thanks in advance

Dan

Evening all

Strange things started on the way back from Peterbrough show where half the LCD display went dull

Didn't think much of it. Just age related and I could still make out the mileage etc

Yesterday the rev counter took over a mind of its own and then today I lost the speedo.

I replaced the ABS Ecu. As I'm odd and had a spare.

This seemed to fix the above and the LCD display is back to being full brightness again.

I'm not sure how this is linked.

I plugged my old Hawkeye Total in and checked the BECM.

I got faults saying communication lost to centre console outstation

Also to left and right doors.

Now I must say I am aware that something has been messed with by previous bodgers of the sweet old girl.

As she use to start on a button to override the immobiliser and there was a link wired in to the fuse box in the bonnet.

To start the P38 when I got her. You just turned the ignition on and then pressed a button. But that's another story .... I think

Any help regarding the outstations much appreciated

Or was it purely the ABS ECU

Evening all

My compressor has been running excessive lately and iv struggled to track down a leak. Tonight the compressor burnt out and was too hot too touch.

When unplugging the compressor the top left pin. Looking towards the front of the car had melted.

Fortunately I had another compressor which had been rebuilt and I knew it was a runner.

I swapped the compressor out with the aid of some oven gloves and repaired the melted terminals.

Even after resetting the eas fault using the dongle.

I can't get power to the compressor.

Tried all the pins with a multi meter but can't pick anything up.

Is there any fuses further down the line where I should be looking.

Any pointers much appreciated

Dan

Just want to echo the thanks to everyone on here for the help given to members new and old and also wish everyone a Merry Christmas

Enjoy your time off and sample a few ales along the way

No doubt the P38s will keep us all in conversation for another year to come

So today the old girl got to finally stretch her legs on a test run from the lock up at work to home. Roughly 18miles. Mix of dual carriage way, 40 areas and back on to the B roads

She passed her MOT this morning, had to fix the horn and advisory on a leaky oil cooler, so that I'd also now on the shopping list.

She drove pretty well considering how long she has been sidelined.

First real experience for me driving a P38, let alone a V8 and a 4 speed.

Jobs I need to do. Throw some anti roll bar bushes and drop links on. She gets bit of a wobble on at 65.

Drives straight as an arrow. But noticed the steering wheel is pointing to 10 o clock. I'm guessing wheels been off to change the clock rotary spring behind the air bag.

She averaged about 7mpg according to the dash, temperature was between 89 and 96.

Which I'm guessing is a big range, so may need to give the cooling some tlc.

Oh and for a grand finale.... she nearly set on fire. 60 seconds from home and smoke started to come in from under the steering wheel.

Turned out to be drivers side exhaust heat shield that was more fibre glass than foil. Few burnt fingers but removed all of that and any of the damaged rubber/foam behind it.

Removed passenger side aswell as that was loose.

Advice on do I need to replace heat shields, can i replaced them ?

Salutations

So as some of you may know when i got the old girl she was bit of a wreck, been standing alone for a number of years and some one had bodged and hacked away at it. Mainly down to having 1 battery and a piece of foil in the key fob which would then lead on to immobilizer issues and locked doors, ripped out interior and unplugged airbags etc.

The car was some how hacked that it would start via a button drilled in to the dash board.

The key would turn the ignition on, but then you would hold the silver button to start the engine

I found that the button was wired in to two relays in the fuse box.

I can only begin to assume the ecu has also been tampered with.

I have reversed most of this bypass ( re used the button for the fuel flap which had the button cut off also) and she now starts on the key and immobilizer is disarmed using the key fob also.

The problem has raised its head again as i have an ABS fault. Any fault code reader i have tried wont even read the fault. Also need to reset an Airbag Fault as well due to that being unplugged when i got it.

Snap-On, Solus, Cheap and cheerful blue tooth code reader, nothing even shows the faults

Now, when the garage opposite where i work plugged it in for me, it got to accessing the abs and srs parts and then it just kicked it back to the main menu. Wont even show the faults.

Would this be down to the type of test gear, or is this more problems caused by a hacked ecu.

A lot of friends i had from my D2 past said the ecu cant of been hacked like that etc etc. But then i found this video on youtube last night, which is near as damn it, the same as what someone had done to mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnSoWYzPuXA

So to cut the waffle down. Would the hacked ecu stop reading codes for the abs and srs or am i using the wrong kit ?

Is there anything i can look at regarding the ecu to see if i can reverse anything or repair anything ?

Howdy everyone

Looking to add some extra lights to the Project as I am scared of the dark.

Mine doesn't have any factory front fog lights so I have purchased the factory fog light switches and was hoping to use these, so they look neater in the factory switch pack on the dash

I know on my D2 I had to use a certain switch to make sure it was 'self latching' and along with using a relay.

Do we have the knowledge if the either the front or rear fog light switches are good to use. I found a wiring diagram on the dark side forum and have seen that the lights feed info back to the BECM,

Not sure how this would effect use the switch itself if they are suitable to use

All advice and ideas welcome

So my adventure of the bodge it project continues.

Got a lovely kicker lent to reset the hard faults. Lovely.

Rebuilt compressor even though it clicks a bit when it runs. It works in a fashion.

However bought the cable and free software to see what the very strange actions are all about.

And if found more bodges I think.

So firstly the faults being listed are as follows

Afternoon

In my haste to solve an airbag and srs light and also no horn.

I read it may be the rotary coupler or clock switch. Whichever term you prefer.

I sourced one and fitted it and in my haste to remove the airbag I did not see which way up the red plug attaches in to the back.

On my D2 the plug could only go in one way. However on the P38 it seems the connector is symmetrical and could go in either.

Without guessing. I thought i best ask if anyone knew

As many will have seen. This old girl of an early P38 is bit of a project. Slowly but surely.

Today found a metal bracket under a seat. Completely loose.

Not sure what it is

4.0 v8

Oil capacity

Is it roughly 6.6

Afternoon all

Now I know my little project is in pieces.

I need to get my key repaired as it is a right mess.

I can open the drivers door with the key.

This allows me to unlock the tailgate.
It also allows me to open the front passenger door from the inside. But not the outside.

The rear doors however won't unlock.

Is this linked to only opening with the key and also the fob not working.

Or

Is this more likely also a faulty drivers door latch which I've learnt controls and sends info to the BECM.

If I have got any of that wrong, please forgive me haha

I am still trying to work out what the previous owner was looking for when he stripped it out.

Hello to one and all

Diverted my attention this way after a friendly tip off via RangeRover.net

I am no stranger to the green oval brand. Owned my D2 for close to a decade before a strange stray into german saloon territory. Quickly got bored of that and Picked up my RRS 2010 early last year.

Now I also have picked up a project in my newly acquired 1995 P38 4.0 SE.

She needs plenty of attention but being my second motor, I know I can take my time and still get to work come Monday morning. Also means hopefully I can get back out into the greenlanes and camping again which im missing a lot.

Lockdown hasn't affected me too much as I have been working through out with my engineering work I do. But work and home and then back to work 6 maybe 7 days a week has got me wanting to get out even more so. My rugby certainly doesn't look like its coming back anytime soon, so my wife told me I needed something to do so that I wouldn't keep getting under her feet like a grumpy bear.

Hello to all and look forward to this new adventure