Only time will tell haha

I will let you know when it turns up. Going from North Lincolnshire to Cornwall in July so would like to get the cruise back working by then

Pete12345 wrote:

It could also be the little pump, hoses or vacuum valve inside the box with the actuator. ECU generally just need re-soldering & possibly capacitor replacement.

Mine has intermittent operation of the vacuum valve, so fails to engage.

Thanks for that aswell Pete.

Il go check that also

Thanks for that. Il wait tol the box turns up and give it a go

KCR wrote:

If it is the P38 from Your signature it will have the older CC ECU, which is prone for intermittent operation. I swapped mine for a later one from the facelift model (made an adaptation with the plug like this one https://ejcruz.smugmug.com/Other/Range-Rover-P38/).

Worked fine for me since the swap.

Thanks for that

Mine is the model in my signature.

Iv ordered a later model CC ecu, where abouts is this located ?

Good Morning

Cruise control stopped working few weeks ago

So yesterday I replaced the silicone hose and T piece

It still didn't work so whilst I was at it. I put a replacement steering wheel on. Thinking the control may of gone on the old one.

Still nothing.

So I'm left with the brake switch or the vacuum side under the bonnet itself

Any way to test either of them ?

Thanks in advance

Dan

Interesting. Thanks for the info

Thank you for that

Thought I best ask just incase

Replaced my ABS Ecu to cure speedo woes

Only to have more questions than answers

Does the charcoal canister need servicing ever?

Mines a 95 GEMs so it's there behind the EAS box. Don't understand what it does though

Evening all

Strange things started on the way back from Peterbrough show where half the LCD display went dull

Didn't think much of it. Just age related and I could still make out the mileage etc

Yesterday the rev counter took over a mind of its own and then today I lost the speedo.

I replaced the ABS Ecu. As I'm odd and had a spare.

This seemed to fix the above and the LCD display is back to being full brightness again.

I'm not sure how this is linked.

I plugged my old Hawkeye Total in and checked the BECM.

I got faults saying communication lost to centre console outstation

Also to left and right doors.

Now I must say I am aware that something has been messed with by previous bodgers of the sweet old girl.

As she use to start on a button to override the immobiliser and there was a link wired in to the fuse box in the bonnet.

To start the P38 when I got her. You just turned the ignition on and then pressed a button. But that's another story .... I think

Any help regarding the outstations much appreciated

Or was it purely the ABS ECU

Being a key holder at work has its advantages especially if the weather is looking a bit suspect

So once overtime was finished saturday morning at 12.30 and all the other lads had gone home.

i pulled the old girl inside for a much needed seeing to.

oil changed,

new spark plugs opting for the NGK, i found the ones removed where bosch. I need a new set of leads as the originals are seeming very tired

usual air filters and pollen filters. The plenum filter is missing but i do have a replacement. But need more homework before i attempt that. Not as easy at the skinny version that was on the D2

Front Brake pads and then dropped the diff oils and topped them back up.

Not bad for a Saturday afternoon. Sods law the weather didn't turn to rain as it was meant to. But it was nicer being inside with a bit more space to work in

Its me again

Big thank you to you all.

Im not electrically biased as such. Iv always been and worked on the mechanical side of life

Your problem solving checked out the dead compressor and also the spare

Electrically I found the spare had a failed thermal switch. The current pump with the burnt out 12V feed did not

After following all the tests i decided to break down the current frazzled pump, what do i have to lose

I found the bushes on the spare to be in a much better state than the current so i swapped them over. I then also discover that the current pump has a seized bearing on the piston arm. Bingo

I imagine thats enough to melt something and also when jumping pin 5 and 3 on Relay 20, explains the audible click. not a relay but the actual pump trying to move

I will hold my hand up and say even though i had a spare seal to replace on the piston. I just dont have the nack in swapping them. I can cut the old one off, but im dire and refitting

So i split the piston arm away from the knackered bearing and replaced it on to the bearing coming from the spare pump.

Reason i did this is that the spare pump has a very worn piston seal and liner with scoring, so it made sense in my strange mind to re use the bearing instead.

Result, i now have a solid working pump. I do feel it runs too often. I changed the seals in the block. Re sprayed all the bags and connections yesterday also. Still feel like its leaking somewhere

Thanks again for the tips. Certainly learnt some new lessons and it also allowed me to make it to the Lincolnshire aviation museum yesterday to watch some tanks and planes feed the senses

Thanks Garvin and i will get on to these tips tonight

I found i had 12v going to the compressor by losing my temper and pushing a multimeter probe into the cable on the pump side of the multi plug

I will try grounding as you say

But i feel the conclusion maybe that the back up is or never was any good.

Thank you all for the advice ( as always) and i will report back with any findings

I also tested between the pins for the thermal cut out on the multi plug for the pump and it was a closed circuit, no resistance.

So i assume that the thermal contact is in one piece and working as it should

Hi when you say short between them

Do that on the pump side of the multi plug or the vehicle side of the multi plug

Iv gone over checking fuses and whilst its all connected is short on Relay 20 between pin 5 and 3

All i get from the pump area is 1 solid click and nothing else

Morning Gents

Symes, i did go through the fuse box and tested the fuses, all checked ok. But i agree it is a question that is worth asking 😀

I have found that i do have 12 V to the compressor. But it is not running.

I will go and check the thermal cut out. I believe i saw the video on the RSW website this morning whilst doing some homework

If the thermal cut out is faulty, is there a way to bypass, to prove the pump does run ?

Evening all

My compressor has been running excessive lately and iv struggled to track down a leak. Tonight the compressor burnt out and was too hot too touch.

When unplugging the compressor the top left pin. Looking towards the front of the car had melted.

Fortunately I had another compressor which had been rebuilt and I knew it was a runner.

I swapped the compressor out with the aid of some oven gloves and repaired the melted terminals.

Even after resetting the eas fault using the dongle.

I can't get power to the compressor.

Tried all the pins with a multi meter but can't pick anything up.

Is there any fuses further down the line where I should be looking.

Any pointers much appreciated

Dan

Just want to echo the thanks to everyone on here for the help given to members new and old and also wish everyone a Merry Christmas

Enjoy your time off and sample a few ales along the way

No doubt the P38s will keep us all in conversation for another year to come

I have finally levelled the girl out and set the heights for the EAS. Now safe to let it go in to motorway height without the nose diving to some random setting.

Changed the front anti roll bar bushes back to black rubber and some new drop links to suit. They had been some extremely soft polybush previous.

Set the steering wheel straight and replaced a leaking power steering pipe.

Wow that parts page is brilliant

Thanks for that. I did order the right one. Few