I recently purchased P38 4.6 Thor that ran terribly, it would not go over 50mph and was just terrible. The previous owner had replaced the Lambda sensors with new after market ones that did not fix the problem. I took it to my local LR expert who diagnosed and replaced them again with genuine ones. After 20minutes of driving the car was back to new.
no10chris wrote:
Holland-and-Holland wrote:
My 4.6thor has started to rev high on start up and is very slow to drop down revs when driving. Only thing obvious is the throttle body is weeping coolant slightly. Could this be the problem? If it is should I just replace throttle body heater or entire assembly? (I do have a complete spare car for parts)
Throttle body gaskets or the whole plate are readily available, how’s the H&H coming along..
As for high tick over, first thing I’d clean is ACV
ACV????
My 4.6thor has started to rev high on start up and is very slow to drop down revs when driving. Only thing obvious is the throttle body is weeping coolant slightly. Could this be the problem? If it is should I just replace throttle body heater or entire assembly? (I do have a complete spare car for parts)
My P38 was never fitted with mudflaps but I've now managed to source 4 genuine ones in good condition, sadly no fixings. I'd like to keep my P38 moderately standard. Do LR sell fixing kits separately or could anyone recommend what aftermarket screw work best?
The silver wheels look so much better on her. Good job.
Blanco and Gilbert, many thanks for your suggestions. I didn't do either so will investigate. Tks
Since rebuilding my pump it has now become very noisey and can clearly be heard from inside the car. I've rebuilt a few over the years and they always seem to get louder after being reconditioned. Thoughts?
Yet another update....... Yes she's now 'sleeping' like a baby and we've certainly fixed one battery drain problem but sadly she's still killing batteries! (It's not the battery as I lent her a brand new battery from my diesel P38. Spoken to Richard and he's suggested the following 3 possibilities. Alternator, interior light or sunroof...... I've installed another tested interior light, unplugged the sunroof motor (as well as turning the function of with my Hawkeye) and now just need to rule out the alternator.....
I have a very late 1999 DSE with the factory Alpine Radio. The cars steering wheel did not have volume controls or 'skip' functions on it. I've subsequently fitted a genuine higher spec part wood wheel that does have these functions. Is it possible to 'activate' these functions or would I need more retrofitting of cabling as the buttons do not work? Any thoughts?
Just a quick update, as Richard says the car is happily going to sleep now for the first time in many years. Such a silly small cheap part had potentially ended the life of a stunningly nice rare P38. The car had been abandoned for for years and being sold as 'spares or repair'. Without Richard I think it would have sadly ended up on a scrap heap. Thankyou Richard. Although we could not get my Hawkeye to communicate on the day ironically I plugged it in the following day and it worked perfectly first time. (Sunroof now disabled).
David, Many thanks, I'm aware of this way of testing as well. The problem is she just refuses to sleep unless you pull plug C362.
I've swopped the ultrasonic alarm sensor over with a known good one and there is no dash error saying any doors are open when I lock it? Still seems strange that the plug isolates the locking function to the front passenger door? Certainly narrowing down the fault.
From my understanding it's plug C362 (front, bottom row, 2nd from left (black)). Tried test with sunroof motor unplugged and test failed so fault must be another input through that plug?
Ok, good news, using the BECM SID, I removed plugs individually from the BECM in order as indicated on the 'active imputs' did the usual trick of then locking the door and waiting 2 minutes to see if the BECM went to sleep. After a unplugging and plugging them in order eventually with plug C362 unplugged the car finally went to sleep. (SID shows this is the rear left door however it operated the front left door in my car?). Question now is where does the fault lie as I've already replaced this lock once from another car, two dodgy locks....... Should I be looking at wiring / plugs or something else?
I've only got a Hawkeye Total, would this work?
No I don't, could you send?
Ok, here we go again, I've just purchased another P38 to join my fleet of P38s. She is a very late 2001 Vogue. The seller advised the only fault is a mysterious battery drain, 'easy I thought' I know all the answers to this. Ok so she won't go to sleep after locking her and waiting for 2 minutes. It's not the RF receiver as the aerial has been disconnected. It's also not the BECM as I've had this refurbished by a well known P38 specialist. I actually have another identical P38 so have swopped the BECMs, RF receivers and ultrasonic sensor over to rule them all out. I've also replaced both front door locking mechanisms. As you can see I've done the obvious things but she just will not sleep...... What next? The only fault with car is the sunroof is stuck in the closed position due to a seized cable so will not set and shows 'open' on dash. My other P38s sleep fine with sunroof open so again have ruled this out. Where do I go next?
I've recently purchased two new EAS compressor rings of eBay for circa £20 but they appear to be so tight the pumps struggled to turn. I've got numerous pumps so at first thought it might be a weak motor etc but after swopping parts over have come to the conclusion the rings are just ever so slightly to big. Any recommendations for the best rings out there?
I've just spoken to Ray from V8 developments and he confirms his pricing is out of date. A standard 4.6 long engine starts from £3195.
£2330 for a fully rebuilt engine?