Many thanks for above info, I've been to LR Main Dealer and they said they do not keep service information on record for cars this old. It looks as if the first owner had the accident but potentially repaired the car himself. I'm hoping to find someone who knows it.
Dear All, I've just purchased a genuine Holland & Holland blind on ebay and was pleasantly surprised when it turned up. Genuine low mileage and complete. But sadly no service history or any paperwork whatsoever, nothing. It's going to be a relatively simple restoration project and will be up for sale once complete. The only question I have is does anyone know of it's previous owners / history? Current plate X707POF and previously W7JPH from new until 2016. I'd be interested to here from old owners. Philip
Ive got a second hand set of original factory side steps that I'd like to install to my P38. I've got all the brackets etc the only thing I need to buy is the threaded riv nuts to go into the pre drilled holes in chassis. Due to the limited space between chassis / sill I can't get my tool in. I've seen people use 'loose bolts' any recommendations on size needed or alternative options?
I'm sure it's been asked lots of times but I'm struggling to find the answer. I want to get my wheels refurbished on my 2001 Vogue and know they should be more chrome than silver. What is the paint colour and does anyone know the centre cap part number. I'm really looking for 100% originality. Tks.
I recently purchased P38 4.6 Thor that ran terribly, it would not go over 50mph and was just terrible. The previous owner had replaced the Lambda sensors with new after market ones that did not fix the problem. I took it to my local LR expert who diagnosed and replaced them again with genuine ones. After 20minutes of driving the car was back to new.
no10chris wrote:
Holland-and-Holland wrote:
My 4.6thor has started to rev high on start up and is very slow to drop down revs when driving. Only thing obvious is the throttle body is weeping coolant slightly. Could this be the problem? If it is should I just replace throttle body heater or entire assembly? (I do have a complete spare car for parts)
Throttle body gaskets or the whole plate are readily available, how’s the H&H coming along..
As for high tick over, first thing I’d clean is ACV
ACV????
My 4.6thor has started to rev high on start up and is very slow to drop down revs when driving. Only thing obvious is the throttle body is weeping coolant slightly. Could this be the problem? If it is should I just replace throttle body heater or entire assembly? (I do have a complete spare car for parts)
My P38 was never fitted with mudflaps but I've now managed to source 4 genuine ones in good condition, sadly no fixings. I'd like to keep my P38 moderately standard. Do LR sell fixing kits separately or could anyone recommend what aftermarket screw work best?
The silver wheels look so much better on her. Good job.
Blanco and Gilbert, many thanks for your suggestions. I didn't do either so will investigate. Tks
Since rebuilding my pump it has now become very noisey and can clearly be heard from inside the car. I've rebuilt a few over the years and they always seem to get louder after being reconditioned. Thoughts?
Yet another update....... Yes she's now 'sleeping' like a baby and we've certainly fixed one battery drain problem but sadly she's still killing batteries! (It's not the battery as I lent her a brand new battery from my diesel P38. Spoken to Richard and he's suggested the following 3 possibilities. Alternator, interior light or sunroof...... I've installed another tested interior light, unplugged the sunroof motor (as well as turning the function of with my Hawkeye) and now just need to rule out the alternator.....
I have a very late 1999 DSE with the factory Alpine Radio. The cars steering wheel did not have volume controls or 'skip' functions on it. I've subsequently fitted a genuine higher spec part wood wheel that does have these functions. Is it possible to 'activate' these functions or would I need more retrofitting of cabling as the buttons do not work? Any thoughts?
Just a quick update, as Richard says the car is happily going to sleep now for the first time in many years. Such a silly small cheap part had potentially ended the life of a stunningly nice rare P38. The car had been abandoned for for years and being sold as 'spares or repair'. Without Richard I think it would have sadly ended up on a scrap heap. Thankyou Richard. Although we could not get my Hawkeye to communicate on the day ironically I plugged it in the following day and it worked perfectly first time. (Sunroof now disabled).
David, Many thanks, I'm aware of this way of testing as well. The problem is she just refuses to sleep unless you pull plug C362.
I've swopped the ultrasonic alarm sensor over with a known good one and there is no dash error saying any doors are open when I lock it? Still seems strange that the plug isolates the locking function to the front passenger door? Certainly narrowing down the fault.
From my understanding it's plug C362 (front, bottom row, 2nd from left (black)). Tried test with sunroof motor unplugged and test failed so fault must be another input through that plug?
Ok, good news, using the BECM SID, I removed plugs individually from the BECM in order as indicated on the 'active imputs' did the usual trick of then locking the door and waiting 2 minutes to see if the BECM went to sleep. After a unplugging and plugging them in order eventually with plug C362 unplugged the car finally went to sleep. (SID shows this is the rear left door however it operated the front left door in my car?). Question now is where does the fault lie as I've already replaced this lock once from another car, two dodgy locks....... Should I be looking at wiring / plugs or something else?
I've only got a Hawkeye Total, would this work?
No I don't, could you send?