Brian,
This is the correct code for another Diversity Radio I have.
Serial: CR0154S0007364
Code: 3144
Sadly this isn't the original radio and the code supplied appears incorrect.
Could as anyone recommend the cheapest option for me to get the radio code for a Clarion Diversity Radio or even better the cheapest software to allow me to decode it myself. On a separate note I'm still trying to figure out how to permanently delete the code function from these radios but still no joy, any ideas?
Both my H&H and Vogue 50 have their factory TV systems but both are still analogue. Does anyone know how I can convert them to digital whilst still retaining the 'factory look' and VHS players.
Certainly B, but with a good donar vehical I'll get it going.
Ok, so I started my 4.6 gems up after circa 8 years of standing still and instantly oil started spraying out of gearbox dipstick. I turned engine off and checked gearbox oil level and it appeared correct. Any thoughts?
Dear All, so I've finally replaced the fuel pump by dropping the tank. I managed to do it on my driveway with a couple of jack's and some basic tools. Although not fun provided that you have some enthusiasm for DIY it's not rocket science. I did have to remove wheel arch liner and disconnect filler neck. Besides the pump I had to buy new rubber hose for fuel pipes (no chance in saving old ones) and some jubilee clips.
Last question, I've obtained a complete sender unit and pump. What is easier to change, the entire unit with the two rusty fuel pipes on the top or just the pump inside with just one hose connected. The pump hose has no clip and looks a snug fit?
Dear All, I have managed to get my hands on a complete fuel pump and sender unit. To make my life easier I plan on just replacing the pump and not the complete pump / sender unit as the pump only has one electrical plug and one fuel pipe. Own easy is it to remove the one fuel pipe and any recommendations. Boiling water to soften it up. I note there isn't even a clip on it so it must be tight?
They won't tell me. Surely someone else will know? Does anyone else service them cheaper? Sadly the screens seem obsolete.
Does anyone know how to delete the code function on the Clarion Diversity Radio (I have the code). I know it can be done and presume it's similar to the later Alpine radios where you just have to press certain buttons in a certain order in conjunction with entering your code.
You've almost convinced me to lower tank. I'm not worried about 5 bolts. But what about space and access to pump? Disconnecting the fuel and return lines? Undoing the big ring (I do not have the correct tool). The filler line seems to be the restricting obsticle, how easy is it to disconnect? All this upside down on my drive in winter. Potentially perished air bags so can't even manually pump up RR.
Many thanks for all your advice there seems to be a split of opinions between cut or drop. Although I'm an enthusiast and appreciate originality I do tend to lean towards cutting. I'd remove carpet and not cut to hide my shortcut. Morat dropping the tank seems easy but how much space will there be to get to the pump and actually work on it with the filler neck connected. This will all be done on my drive with a couple of trolly jack's. Although I'm adamant not to break it I have to be realistic about what a major project it will be and ultimately how much will it be worth completed? Not one person messaged me about buying it.
Ok so bridge the brown and white to 'orangy pinky/white. No alarm but still no fuel. I presume inertia switch also ok so what next. Blocked fuel filter (very nervous to remove) or pump?
With the inertia switch disconnected. Brown and white has a permanent 12v even with ignition off. Other two wires have no power in any postition of the ignition. If I bridge the brown and white to the blue and white the inertia warning alarm activates, but still no fuel.
Trying to get my Vogue 50 started after many years (4.6gems). Turns over fine but no fuel getting to fuel rail (Schrader valve pushed and no fuel / pressure). Disconnected fuel pipe at bulkhead, nothing). Fuse checked and fine, relay checked and working fine. Inertia switch checked and power going to it. The question is how far back can I test the system before having to cut a hole in the floor? I haven't checked the fuel filter as it looks original and I don't want to damage threads. Are there any other obviouse checks? 'Working fine when parked up" LPG system fitted and 'petrol' selected. Plenty of fresh fuel in tank. No obviouse sound from pump but can you actually hear it from inside?
Chris, I actually prefer the Vogue 50, it was cutting edge in its time with TVs and Sat Nav. I also think that they have never been taken seriously and as such are now rare. There are 5 H&Hs for sale online today but you try and find a Vogue 50 for sale? The Vogue 50 does however need a Y2k light facelift otherwise the orange indicators clash (luckily mine has been upgraded).
Rob, keen to find details on any Vogue 50, my register is small to say the least for them.
I have a genuine RR Vogue 50 Carin (one of only 30 made with sat Nav) and one of only 85 made in total. It has a genuine 81k on the clock (probably the lowest mileage one in the country) sadly it has not been driven for many years, but is complete and only coved 5 miles since last MOT. I'm looking to sell it if anyone is interested. Please message me if you are interested.
It's strange how 2 of his P38s that sold on eBay for decent money less than 48hrs ago are listed again? Bidding up his own items???
Morat, yes that's on my register. I've also just discovered this one for sale but can't identify it due to the number plate being coved up. I have now located 17 H&H with original factory TVs
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/land-rover/range-rover/land-rover-range-rover-4-6-v8-holland-and-holland-limited-edition-5dr/10016002