I’ve replaced the drivers door handle on my P38 with a brand new factory one. I got the complete set including ignition barrel, door handle, 2 FOB keys, a glovebox latch and a valet key.
All work fine BUT .......
I cannot get the key to sync the central locking.
Whilst there are numerous “this is how you sync the key” methods on the net, I am actually blue in the my face from trying.
I know it’s the techniques I’ve been using because I recently changed the battery in another P38 and I can’t get the central locking to work off the FOB.
So.... does anyone have a “tried it a hundred times and I guarantee it works” method to get the key to synce central locking remotely?
FWIW....
Remove the latch, open the screws holding it together and you may find that the “grease” used on the gears has hardened and binding the thing.
Give the lot a shot of lube, put it back together again, connect the wiring and test it.
Not saying it will work but two of my three P38s have had latches “fail” because of this...
Put a blow torch to it... heat the metal .... don’t cut the steering wheel
Don’t cut the steering wheel off.....
Get a can of BLASTER PB and spray it on the connection. Leave it overnight. The steering wheel will come off but you need to be patient and when doing so pull really hard in various spots of steering wheel. It’s a pain in the hole to do it but it will come off. It took me the bones of an hour.
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....
Does anyone have a P38 Westminster that they are parting out?
I need the sill plates that have the WESTMINSTER name printed on them.
Worst case scenario you can attach a piebald pony to the front of your P38 and off you go.....
I put electric cars, their owners and proponents of same said objects, in a basket that also contains those folk who singularly or collectively drink Starbucks, support the flat earth theory, believe in flying saucers or think that Namibia will be a world power in the next 15 years. Make of that as you will.
I’d imagine that driving an electric car would be similar to having sex with a condom. Sure it’s safe and you are going through the motions but there’s no risk and no reward. It’s just not the same....
My feeling on the P38s I own is summed up by a Charlotte Heston quote....
“Out of my cold dead hand”
I elected for the NAPA (American Auto Supply store chain) Nightvision Brilliant bulb, part number BPH3NVB2-N.
55W and as bright as day when driving in the bog dark nights....
I have Shadow Chromes on the Linley and, while they came as standard for that spec vehicle, they would not be my first choice of wheel color...
They look a bit boy racer and after market to me, but then again, his Viscountness never asked me so......
Thanks guys....
100 LEDs way to go the ?
Does anyone know what the maximum wattage Bulb I can use for the Safari 5000 driving lamps is?
Also, any recommendation on bulb type? Useage is for country road driving to and from work at nights...
Gilbertd, that’s classic....
Just trying to start a train of posts here.... feel free to add your own “you know you own a Landrover” comments
....your family recognize you from your knees down more so than your face due to the time you spend under your vehicle.
Do you get hot air from the air vents when the engines RPMs are above 1500RPM? I’m no expert on anything, but if you do get hot air once the RPMs increase then I would guess that you have air trapped in the system.....
Of course I may have misread the problem you are having altogether and if so, then disregard my post...
@Gilbertd, yes but none available anywhere.
Thanks
Excellent work.
Well done
I just replaced mine last weekend. For what it’s worth you can save yourself a few bucks/pounds/euro by using the Hyundai Sonata or a Santa Fe purge valve.
Hyundai Part number 28910-22040
Exact same part and mine is working a treat.....
Agree 100% with Rutland re the wobble. Happens on my 3 P38s.... That death wobble is a common P38 fault... you can throw good money after bad money trying to solve it but my suggestion is to power through it....
Re the lugniuts... horrible design but they should come off like any normal lugnut although with how they appear to be loose it can create some uncertainty as to how they should be removed. I put copper grease on all my lugnuts before putting wheels back on. The wheel not budging off hub is due to the differential hearing of two metals... again copper grease where the wheel and hub meet makes next removal easier...
Thanks Gilbertd, but I tried that. Those plugs are a b@$#ard to remove even when the radio is fully out. It’s impossible to get them out without having the radio out of its mounting and away from the facia.....
Getting close to the nuclear option..... wire cutters.
I’ll give it a few more atte,pets over the weekends as I can’t take this as a defeat...
Removing the facia won’t work because the wiring to the back of the stereo would not come out far enough to allow me access to the clips holding stereo into the frame.....