Don’t cut the steering wheel off.....
Get a can of BLASTER PB and spray it on the connection. Leave it overnight. The steering wheel will come off but you need to be patient and when doing so pull really hard in various spots of steering wheel. It’s a pain in the hole to do it but it will come off. It took me the bones of an hour.
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....

Does anyone have a P38 Westminster that they are parting out?
I need the sill plates that have the WESTMINSTER name printed on them.

Worst case scenario you can attach a piebald pony to the front of your P38 and off you go.....
I put electric cars, their owners and proponents of same said objects, in a basket that also contains those folk who singularly or collectively drink Starbucks, support the flat earth theory, believe in flying saucers or think that Namibia will be a world power in the next 15 years. Make of that as you will.
I’d imagine that driving an electric car would be similar to having sex with a condom. Sure it’s safe and you are going through the motions but there’s no risk and no reward. It’s just not the same....
My feeling on the P38s I own is summed up by a Charlotte Heston quote....
“Out of my cold dead hand”

I elected for the NAPA (American Auto Supply store chain) Nightvision Brilliant bulb, part number BPH3NVB2-N.
55W and as bright as day when driving in the bog dark nights....

I have Shadow Chromes on the Linley and, while they came as standard for that spec vehicle, they would not be my first choice of wheel color...
They look a bit boy racer and after market to me, but then again, his Viscountness never asked me so......

Thanks guys....
100 LEDs way to go the ?

Does anyone know what the maximum wattage Bulb I can use for the Safari 5000 driving lamps is?
Also, any recommendation on bulb type? Useage is for country road driving to and from work at nights...

Gilbertd, that’s classic....

Just trying to start a train of posts here.... feel free to add your own “you know you own a Landrover” comments

....your family recognize you from your knees down more so than your face due to the time you spend under your vehicle.

Do you get hot air from the air vents when the engines RPMs are above 1500RPM? I’m no expert on anything, but if you do get hot air once the RPMs increase then I would guess that you have air trapped in the system.....
Of course I may have misread the problem you are having altogether and if so, then disregard my post...

@Gilbertd, yes but none available anywhere.
Thanks

Excellent work.
Well done

I just replaced mine last weekend. For what it’s worth you can save yourself a few bucks/pounds/euro by using the Hyundai Sonata or a Santa Fe purge valve.
Hyundai Part number 28910-22040
Exact same part and mine is working a treat.....

Agree 100% with Rutland re the wobble. Happens on my 3 P38s.... That death wobble is a common P38 fault... you can throw good money after bad money trying to solve it but my suggestion is to power through it....
Re the lugniuts... horrible design but they should come off like any normal lugnut although with how they appear to be loose it can create some uncertainty as to how they should be removed. I put copper grease on all my lugnuts before putting wheels back on. The wheel not budging off hub is due to the differential hearing of two metals... again copper grease where the wheel and hub meet makes next removal easier...

Thanks Gilbertd, but I tried that. Those plugs are a b@$#ard to remove even when the radio is fully out. It’s impossible to get them out without having the radio out of its mounting and away from the facia.....
Getting close to the nuclear option..... wire cutters.
I’ll give it a few more atte,pets over the weekends as I can’t take this as a defeat...

Removing the facia won’t work because the wiring to the back of the stereo would not come out far enough to allow me access to the clips holding stereo into the frame.....

For what it’s worth, I took the front drivers seat base of the Linley to an upholsterer to get replaced. Previous owner must have sat in and out of vehicle with a rear pocket full of gravel because the leather was torn to bits. Could also have been an angry ex tore the seat with a knife because during the refurbishment I found about a half pints worth of dried Coca Cola had been poured into the rear and front air vents....
Anyway, I digress.... the leather was of fairly high quality and I insisted that the shop match it... final bill to remove old leather, fabricate and match the linings and fit came to $265. Obviously the new leather in no way matches the old worn looking leather pieces but it needed to be done because if the irreparable tears in it.
Added bonus to this was it afforded me the opportunity to repair the common break in the wiring to the heated seat element.....
Price may seem high just for the seat base repair but as the P38s are my pride and joy I don’t mind spending a few quid on them. My justification being that I do all the repairs on these vehicles and that most people would pay $265 for an oil change and a set of wipers at Jiffy Lube!

RRToadhall had this to say about me.....

“JMC is no longer with us. He didn't feel the site guidelines should apply to him because he had a rare Rover.”

My “crime”?
I called him out on how irritating it was that his usual comment to people posting questions is “it’s in the RAVE” manual followed by a 10 sentence diatrite of shite complaining about this that and the other. I pointed out that if he had simply answered the question he could have saved himself and the readers the aggravation of his posts.....
He didn’t like that so he banned me on the grounds that he didn’t like me and wanted to take his ball away.
Shame really for the other members of the forum as I believe I was contributing in a positive way as I detailed my rebuild and answered personal messages on topics to members.
Must be difficult being a full time arsehole...... although he seems to do the task quite well.
And because I know that RRToadhall visits this site may I say this to him...
“I do have a rare Rover and it’s awesome you jealous fcuk wit”

LINLEY has entered the paint and body shop for its facelift. Should be done in about 5 weeks. I removed all the lights, door handles and body trim, lower window trims as well as the front door post moldings. I also removed the front windshield surround trims. The front and rear bumpers went to the shop separately. Removing all the listed items saved me a surprising amount of money from the original estimate...
There was a lot of acorn puck marks on the bonnet and roof as well as a tremendous amount of clear coat peeling on roof and right side of vehicle. Absolutely no rust on the body anywhere.
Looking forward to seeing it in February.....