The stereo won’t come out of the dash even when I use the factory radio removal tools
Have no idea what’s causing it to jam inside. I believe the previous owner had the original removed to replace it with another genuine P38 stereo. Won’t even budge
I’ve rebuilt two P38s from ground up and I have no short cut in mind as to how to remove the thing.
Anyone have any ideas that does not involve removing the Heater Matrix and jacking up the left rear end and having the sunroof open on a Friday during the second full moon, as seems to be the case with any P38 task!
I’ve had the interior of mine completely removed and have never seen this part....
MarkTR, if I were you, and this may seem like a bridge too far but I say it because it appears you are about to do an extensive restoration on an extremely rare P38 and this suggestion will be worth the effort, I would remove the carpet completely and the foam soundproofing then allow the floors to dry properly. I removed the carpeting from my H&H and the LINLEY and also the soundproofing and was glad I did. The “gutters” that run along the floor at each side of the vehicle Had more dampness and water residue than I was comfortable with especially considering that Landrover thought it a good idea to run wiring inside these same said “gutters”.
Removing the seats is not a huge deal or is the removal of the center console. The side trims on the interior will need to be removed as well and you can decide whether or not you want to go “full Monty” and remove the dashboard in order to get to the carpeting under the dash or just slice it to get the carpet removed. For sure you will need to slice the carpet in places. On the LINLEY I removed the entire interior so the carpet was not cut. I’m glad I didn’t cut the carpet in the LINLEY because it was a woolen carpet specially made for this vehicle. I didn’t remove the dash for the H&H to remove the carpet but you could not notice where it was spliced because where you will need to cut it will be hidden by trim.
When I had the carpet and foam soundproofing out I realized that the insulation smelt like a wet pair of socks and I disposed of it. I left the interior air out, had to replace some of the wiring plugs that showed signs of oxygenation and then painted the entire floor with rustproofing. I took the opportunity to wash the carpet and then I covered the entire floor with DYNAMAT EXTREME soundproofing followed by the carpet.
It’s not a huge project and one you can take on yourself easily with patience. I would recommend you get a Workshop manual for the P38.
Regarding your question about the color of trim parts, yes they are unique to the H&H and yes they are impossible to find......
I agree with Chris re the steam from the exhausts.... mine looks like the Flying Scotsman on a run to Edinburgh for the first hour after engine start .......
Welcome....
P38s can be a lot of work, but with a half decent toolbox, a pot for boiling water, teabags, a Nanocom and the patience of a saint you will be just grand.
I have three P38s, one of which is a fully restored H&H. I redid all the wood trim. DO NOT REMOVE THE WOOD VENEER! It’s a very simple task to refinish what’s on it. You just need to be patient. The trim is made of French Walnut veneer and my advice is for you to use a very fine sandpaper to remove the varnish, which I assume is cracked. The veneer is not very thick so once you start seeing wood filings then stop sanding. JUST TAKE OFF THE VARNISH AND DON’T BE TEMPTED TO OVERDO IT! As you sand it you can wipe the veneer with a damp cloth and check your varnish removal progress as it will show up in a sheen over the veneer. When the varnish was removed I used a walnut stain from Home Depot and applied two coats with a fine sponge, allowing each coat to dry an hour. Once done wipe it with turpentine or a clear cleaner. I applied clear flat Matt poly with a fine sponge on mine. I would not recommend a high gloss, because other than it looking gash, it was originally designed to be flat like gun barrels.
The H&H is my favorite P38 special edition. Keep an eye out for the extras that Range Rover supplied with the H&H, as they will add value to your machine...
Good luck with it.
Think I will go with your suggestion Clive.....
Cheers
Evening,
I have been searching fleabay and local scrappers but unable to locate a set of front mud guards for the P38 part number STC8535.
Anyone have a set that they would like to sell please send me message with price...
Cheers
James
Before he designed theP38 heater core location, with particular attention to the accessibility to said units “O” rings, he worked at Chrysler.
Try and understand his last video presentation before departing for Solihull, UK.....
As Spock would say... “facinating”
Gilbertd you cursed me dammit....
I showed up at the paint shop with the vehicle and the way the manager looked at me told me that the P38 was not going to get a makeover today!
Turns out he never put my reservation in the books but he can get me in on the 2nd of January 2019...... or in other words “ next bloody year”.
I’d have told him to take a 10 feet walk off a 6 foot pier if they weren’t so good a paint shop. Got a 10% discount for my inconvenience but I guess your prophecy was correct.....
Will be a nice New Years gift......
PART NO.1
The rear wheel cover is held open by a metal bar that slots into a metal “holder” that’s screwed into the cargo floor of the P38. The holder measures about 2” x 4” and is fairly obvious when you open the cover for the spare wheel. I need that part of anyone has one.
PART NO.2
On the rear bumper of the P38 there are two round holes covered by two caps located slightly above the tow hitch receiver. I need four of these caps if anyone has any.
Obviously I will pay for any and all parts.
Thanks
James
It’s the square shaped clips that attach to the rubber door strip, as mentioned by Gilbertd, that I need.
I’m sure some strong double sided tape will work fine.....
And just to prove my point about “Insert British car make here”, the above image showing the door body molding parts has 4 different types of plugs, nuts or screws just to hold them on!!!!!!
Can anyone explain to me why “insert any British made car here” decides that it’s a good idea to use 47 different size nuts, bolts and screws, not to mention torx, Phillips and other such heads plus 23 different style clips and latches when designing their vehicles?
I am convinced that the P38 was built with the sole purpose to manufacture a car which takes every single SnapOn tool to work on!
Replace a simple pair of heater core O rings? No problem. Options are to hacksaw the interior plastics, rip your hands to something resembling a bag of mince beef and then resssemble the lot only to find that the O ring didn’t sit properly or remove the entire dashboard and do it the “easy” way.
Put a stereo in it that requires more amps than a Status Quo concert and make it so that if one amp fails the entire system will go south quicker than a Geordie scratch card winner goes to Majorca.....
My rant is based on me discovering that the bloody clips that are attached to my newly acquired exterior door molding pieces are either all broken or missing. Why did Landrover design a clip that looks like it was used to support a laser rack on a Klingon Warship? Couldn’t they make something simple?
Anyway, does anyone have the part number for these clips before I put my head through my office wall?
Don’t be telling me that Gilbertd.....
I did a lot of research on body and paint shops and came up with a place that has 5 stars for quality etc... hard to find a bad review on them.
Car was dropped off today and they start work on it in 5 days.
I know nothing about auto painting so hopefully someone here can help ...
The owner of shop said they would be putting on 3 coats of paint a 3 coats of clear oat and that this was what they did to all vehicles.
My question to group is, is three coats of paint enough and is 3 coats of clear coat too much or about right?
I want this done right and not have it come out like a Chav just aerosol can painted his Ford Escort Mark II....
Found a full set and dropped them at paint shop where vehicle is getting its makeover with bodywork and paint.. Will be ready for collection Dec9th, me birthday coincidently..
The Linley had no chrome stripes.... that being said I can’t be fussy. I’m planning on having whatever set I put on painted.
Have searched three or four breakers yards here with no luck...
Thanks
The moldings and a number of other items were stolen from my lockup last week. Moldings were stored in a box as I had removed them prior to painting my P38 and are valueless to whoever stole them. Only joy I get is to think of thieving cnuts face when he opens the box on his dining room table, or wherever thieves open their “loot”, only to find carbody moldings.
Still searching for replacement set....
I need a complete set of very good or excellent condition door moldings if anyone has a spare set. I believe there should be 8 pieces in all.
Message me if you have and we can try and negotiate a price...
Thanks
Favorite title to a post I’ve seen in years.... drew me like a moth to a flame!